Frank B

Nope, but a mono stack out of the hood woud be awesome! But I don't think the VA state police would let me get too far like that! I was thinking of using the up-pipe for an exhaust on my N/A ea81 by removing the up-turn portion and running a single pipe all the way back. Using a new cat of coarse. It couldn't be any worse than a stock Y pipe ?!

Thanks

Anyone know the specs, lift, wheel/tire size on that green hatch? That's awesome.

Will an EA82T up-pipe fit onto an EA81? I used to have two, but I gave them away thinking I would never need them!!

I forgot to update, When I replaced my oil pump with this one, it was the same brand, Aissin? , i can't remeber how its spelled at the moment. But either it's an oem part manufacturer, or it has been replaced at some time in the past with the same brand. Either way it's interesting.

I'd like it as well, if they ship parts. Thanks

Any carbureted engine will run worse when cold. It's only when the engine properly warms up that everthing works as it should. You have a thermo valve that regulates the EGR and vacuum advance function when cold, you have the valve in the snorkle for the heat riser, the choke itself, the ASV if equiped. The 02 sensor needs to warm up, etc etc. With my Hatch, I let it warm up untill the guage reads about half way between stone cold and the normal operating temp before I pull away. But in your case, I would say to let it get up to normal temp before climbing that hill. It only takes a few minutes since it's an all aluminum engine.

I've been trying to track down the cause of a front end, or at least a steering wheel shake on my Hatch for a over year now. New GCK axles, new rotors, just put 4 new snow tires on it today and I watched the man balance them, and it still shakes at speed. New ball joints are next. If you can lift the wheels off of the ground and try to wobble them, it can tell you a lot. Side to side, or front to rear, would be steering play, top to bottom would be ball joints. An inner axle joint(DOJ) causes a shake when it wears out. A worn rack and pinion assembly or inner tie rods will do it too. There are so many things that can cause it, and so many bad things that can, have, and will happen if it breaks while driving, that I would say put it on a trailer. It's not worth dying over.

420872022 and 131100-1660 One is a coil, and the other an igniter. I think they fit 1980 models. Thanks for the help.

I have two numbers, but calling the dealer may be next.

That's the kind of site I've been finding. It tells me what the part is, which I know allready, but not what it fits, which is what I need to know. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.

Does anyone know of a website where I can see what year and model a specific part number is for? Like an online parts list with reverse look-up?

I don't have the throttle open enough. It's hard to explain, think of driving a car with a noticeable miss and lack of power, then all of a sudden with no changes from the driver, it runs better.

I never thought it would accelerate uphill like that either!!!! I think it may be a vacuum/timing issue. I was replacing the oil pump today (what a treat!), and I found some vacuum leaks, or potential vacuum leaks anyway. I'll find out if that was it on my way to work tomorrow.

89 EA81 Hatchback 4-spd 4wd, all stock and kept in tune. My comute is about 34 miles round trip every day. Half of that is up and over a small mountain. Open road, three lanes, smooth ride. But my little Sube can only pull it in third gear. I don't push the issue of getting up and over bt flooring it since it really doesn't matter to me, and it's only a little Sube, not a race car. Anyway, the procedure is, keep it in fourth untill it starts to struggle, downshift to third and apply half throttle, right where the linkage stiffens when it touches the secondary linkage, and no more. I will usually get to 55-60 mph when I get to the top, still in third gear. But lately I will only get 40-45 mph by the top and the engine isn't as smooth, not quite a miss. But sometimes as it's doing this, all of a sudden it will run smooth and a surge of power will accelerate the car up to 55-60 uphill! With no change in the throttle. I want to say it's the carb but it's a remanufactured(new) one and I'd hate to tear into it. Has anyone been through this? I'll try some fuel system cleaner and new fuel filters, it's due anyway.

86 GL 3 door 2wd. I just got two new tires on the front and planned on two for the rear on the next pay-day. On my way home, less than a mile from home, I spun out on a down hill blind turn in the rain. Slid around the turn into the ditch backwards and through a barbed wire fence. It came to rest around a cedar tree. The hit destroyed the right door and pilar but didn't break the glass. It also bent up some of the front suspension and the barbed wire scratched the paint and bumper. The bottom of the door and body was smashed in so bad that the top of the window stuck out like three inches. So in proper fashion, I started it up, drove home, banged the bent suspension back into shape, duct taped the gap between the window and the body, and drove it for several more months before the head cracked. I ended up giving it away to a board member that lived near me.

After a cleaning with rubbing alcohol to get the ArmorAll grease off.....

Is your carb in good shape? Are the throttle shafts worn. Is it dirty? Remove and completely clean and rebuild the carb first. There is one mixture screw on the Hitachi, but it's for the idle mixture which has nothing to do with the rest of the circuits. It's on the very front just above the mounting gasket. There is a roll pin blocking it, so you have to remove the carb to drive out the pin to get access. As you clean and rebuild the carb, remove the roll pin and idle mixture screw and spray some carb cleaner in the hole then turn the screw all the way in being careful to not bottom it out. If you do you will damage the end, just go easy untill it stops. Turn the screw out 2 1/2 turns. Set the idle speed, let the engine warm up, then turn the idle screw in untill the engine wants to stall, counting the turns or partial turns(1/4, 1/2 etc.) Then back it out untill it wants to stall, then turn it back in untill its in the middle of the two spots. You should be good. In is lean, out is rich. Then look at the ignition. Is the cap and rotor worn? Does it need new plugs and wires? Does the engine use oil? I had an 86 EA81 Hatch that went from 26 to 37 MPG ( highest not average) after a good carb cleaning and rebuild.

Beck Arnley 0280248, I just ordered one shipped for under $50.00. I used this discount code good for 5%, 819650727667 http://rockauto.com/

I doubt this is in the right forum, but it's cool non the less!! http://www.projectaerosol.com/porubi/

Here you go! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Subaru-EA81-Air-Suction-Valve-ASV-SPS377200-NEW-OE_W0QQitemZ220177644621QQihZ012QQcategoryZ33557QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I thought it was a nickel (.05) or is that the connection by the exhaust port ???

185/70-13 I can go down to a local tire place and get some, but they always have to order them and they have no pictures of the tires. Plus, they're expensive.

Anyone know of any deals on 13" snow tires online? I can't find anything with all the junk sites on the web now. I'd like to find something like these,

Just run it some more and see if it clears up. Also watch for the coolant level to drop as it's running. Did you get all of the old gasket material off?