Frank B

The ea81 rad fan is a bit taller than the ea82 rad. You would have to drill new mounting holes in the fan to match the holes in the rad to bolt it up, but that's it. I think the bottom ones line up, just the top need to be modified. Get an adjustable fan control from Ebay or your local parts store and set it just above the temp of the thermostat your using. But, up where you are, you could probably get away with the one that's there now, just use the adjustable fan control. You'll be fine removing the engine driven fan untill spring for sure.

http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1268366&m=wc&l=en

That push button bypasses the ignition switch start feature, so you can rule that out. I would say that if a new battery doesn't do it, remove the starter, remove the end of the solenoid to get to the contacts and the plunger. Push the plunger down and see if it makes contact with the contacts. If so, it's not that. Also, apply voltage to the starter only, not the solenoid. the starter should engage and turn over the engine, with a good battery. If it doesn't turn over, replace the starter.

My Loyale looses about a quart of coolant in 8 days of driving to and from work, about 40 miles a day. It was losing more than that but I started popping it out of gear and coasting during decelleration and while going down hills. I guess that high vacuum in those conditions was pulling the coolant past a gasket somewhere. I intend to pull the engine and re-seal before spring. Maybe try that and see if your coolant loss lessens.

Is it in the oil pan too? If it's not on the dipstick, you may have an external leak. Or and intake gasket leak. Do you get steam out of the exhaust? I don't mean just at start up, all the time. Do what nipper said, and run it.

Oh, and what's the engine temp like? Is it running hot, is the rad partially clogged? You'll get detonation with a hot engine too.

The gas you use could still be it. I currently have three vehicles in my fleet, 92 Loyale, 97 Chevy Lumina, and my trusty 82 Ford truck. The Subaru is the only one that will detonate with cheap gas. The Chevy runs the same no matter what gas you put in it, I suspect it's because of the better fuel management. The Ford, is just happy to be running! My point it vehicles are different. I was gassing up at the Liberty station where I work, that station gets the cheapest gas that's available that day whether it conventional, rfg, or E10 conventional, but always cheap brands with poor addatives. I was running aroun in circles trying to get rid of the detonation, it wasn't untill I started filling up at Texaco(Chevron) that it went away. The car runs a ton better now, less downshifting uphills, smoother idle, etc. Try a few tanks of Chevron, Exxon, or other big brands and see what happens. At least you'll now without spending a bunch of money. The better gas will cost less that a dollar more per tank, not that bad really.

Also pull and check ALL electric connectors under the hood for water.

Remove the right(passenger) side fender and you'll see the intake muffler. Remove and discard. Cut a larger hole in the body between the air box and the fender, cut a larger hole in the airbox, and use a larger hose or pipe to route air from inside the fender to the airbox. Some have removed the airbox from under the hood, extended the intake hose, and mounted a K&N inside the fender.

When was your last tune up? Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, pcv, check timing, run fuel system cleaner in gas, stop using generic "cheap" gas, stand on the throttle more often to burn out carbon and cob webs.

Try jumping to the starter itself. You'll see the small wire, 12v from ignition to engage solenoid. And the big wire, battery voltage to turn starter. Put the car in nuetral, pull the coil wire, then jump from the battery to the small wire connection, this should engage the starter. Then jump to the big wire connection, this should spin the starter. If you jump it and the starter engages and spins fine, you have a problem with the key switch or between the switch and the starter. I agree that it could also just be the battery, if it got too cold anf dead for too long, it won't take a charge.

http://s61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/monstaru/?action=view&current=IMG_2242.jpg

Could also be the carb mounting gasket, there's a coolant port there to warm the carb. Carb gasket, intake gaskets, head gaskets in that order. Since it's been sitting, your going to have a lot of leaks on the car due to the gaskets and seal drying up and getting brittle. Good luck, and take your time.

Most likely oil crust between the studs and the head, in the holes. Spray a serious amount of wd40, or your favorite penetration oil in them and go have a few more beers. If you can rotate the engine so the head is up, the oil can seep down while you wait. If need be, use a propane torch to lightly heat the aluminum around the steel stud after the oil has soaked. You may get good results with carb cleaner, just don't use the torch ... Tapping with a wood mallet may break it up a bit too.

if that doesn't fix it, and it should, replace the two headlight relays. They're under the dash above the pedals. They look like this. $13.00 at autozone. But replace them with this, $8.00 and 30 amp to boot. Pilot PLRY1.

That is, was, the vacuum diaphram that opens the secondary venturi on the carb. When you open the throttle, part way, a third I think, the linkage starts to open the second barrel. When it opens it creates a vacuum signal in that venturi that draws on that diaphram that is attached to the secondary venturi and opens it up according to the strength of the vacuum signal. In short, it opens the second barrel on the carb. If there is no cobbed up linkage to open the second barrel mechanically, that engine will be weak operating off of one barrel. Sounds like you need to take a good look around the car to see what else you have to fix......

Let it run a bit more and see if the bubbles go away, with it just idling the coolant isn't flowing enough to push the air out. It probably isn't bubbling untill it warms up because the thermostat hadn't opened up to let the bubbles out. Hopefully!

Install a boost gauge before anything else, as far as performance parts. Stock is 7 psi or so, 11-12 you'll hit the fuel cut. Stay at 10 or lower. Keep reading the other posts here and you'll see what I mean about aggrevating yourself if you try to get too much out of it. Don't worry about the up-pipe, just the down pipe and back. 2.5" from the turbo back with a universal cat in there somewhere(they're not that restrictive) is all you'll need. Remove the intake muffler from behind the fender, drill holes in the airbox or install a K&N cone filter. 1 10 psi max 2 tmic 3 bypass valve 4 open up the intake 5 open up the exhaust 6 blow head gaskets 7 blow tranny, install the 5-speed. 8 blow axles 9 etc 10 etc Good luck with it, you will enjoy it!

Did the bubbles stop after a while? With everything else you replaced on the car, was the radiator one of them? I haven't followed your progress..... Is it the four spade relay like the headlight relays? I think they all are. Anyway, use the Pilot PLRY-1 relay. It's a four spade relay like the stockers, but it's 30 amp, and less than half the price of the "proper" replacement. http://www.autozone.com/R,2262363/store,2039/initialAction,accessoryProductDetail/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm They used to be $3.99 at autozone, but they raised the price???? Do a web search for more info on that relay.

The odometer is part of the speedo, so they both use the same cable. Look on the side of the tranny, it screws out. You'll have to pull the dash to get it off the cluster. They usually break becasue they dry up, no grease. But they're cheap. The vent issue is a vacuum leak. Look on the pasenger side, under the hood/ there will be one small vacuum line going up and into the passenger compartment. It's probably off or broken. Or maybe it's off under the dash. The turbo engine can be a pain, you need to choose your battles with this one. If you try to fix everything so it runs perfect, your going to go crazy! I've had two, I know. Just keep the vitals in check and you'll be happy with it. The main thing to watch is the engine temp. if it overheats, it's toast. If you want more out of it, install an intercooler, raise the boost just 2 or 3 psi, open up the exhaust a bit(2.5"), then leave it alone! Anymore than that you'll be asking too much of it and just aggravating yourself.

Thanks

The only thing that would cause gasoline dilution of the oil is leaking injectors.

Who used the toyota emissions solenoids for the egr and purge solenoid? I guess the original post was in the Playground, since I can't find it. Could you post another ppicture, and do you remember what car you removed them from? Thanks

One is a quarter nad one is a nickel. I can't remember which. The top, at the ASV is a quarter? The one on the exhast port is a nickel?

You have at least one bad fuel injector. While idling, pull the spark plug wires one at a time. When you pull a wire and "shut down" that cylinder, it the idle changes, gets worse, then that cylinder was fine. If you pull a plug wire and the idle DOES NOT change, you found the bad cylinder. That injector for that cylinder is bad. Get a used one to get you by, but get new ones or have yours rebuilt later. Take your time removing the old injector. Those little screws that hold them on break easily. Spray them with penetrating oil several times before you tear into it. I had an 86 turbo three door that had the same thing wrong with it. Good luck