Frank B

You can get new axles on Amazon.com for $48-$58. NEW Next time get one and do it yourself, or take it to an imort repair shop with subaru's parked in front. It does sound like a cheap remanufactured axle was used, a shop could get one for $75 or so I bet. And they are crap! I've had the bad reman axle several times, but since I have been using NEW axles, GCK, Cardone, I've had no problems out of the box.

The moral of this story is, if you want an all metal and supposedly more efficient rad, order the two row or thicker core. You'll get a 5/8 but all metal copper/brass. If you just want something to repair the car and not spend as much, order the 5/8 to begin with you'll get aluminum with plastic tank, just like stock. The other point is that it may not matter who you buy it from or where you order it, it may be the same rad from the same manufacturer, just with a different label and price. Decide which rad you want, and go shopping for the best price.

Yea, it's just annoying when these reps tell me that the manufacturer only offers one size to keep the logistics and warehousing easy, but I get one thats different then the others. If they were going to make it easy, they would all be one or the other!

The only wrong way to do it is to pour it in too fast. You could hydro-lock a cylinder and bend a rod. I know a guy that did that on a late model t-bird. I like the PCV hose, slip a funnel into the hose to make it easier. The can says 1/3 but I've alway used the entire can. Poured slowly untill I have only 1/4 left then dump the rest. If it stalls, just let it sit for fifteen minutes or so, then start it up. It will be hard to start but just keep cranking it. Turn the engine off after your done even if it doesn't stall out. It isn't any more of a snake oil than that GM cleaner. It's a cleaner that works.

I got it in today, just finished about a half hour ago. It was a Ready Rad brand, which is a Proliance, which is Transpro, which was Modine at some point. It was just like the stock one, aluminum with plastic tanks but the lower hose connection is at a steeper angle which crimped the hose. It couldn't make the turn. There was a flex hose for the upper hose which I don't like so I bought a new upper hose to replace it. I ended up using the flex hose for the lower. So keep that in mind. It also has an extra fitting, or two fittings in the right tank for the fan switch. One where the stock one is, and one on the side. I used the one on the side and if I ever get to replacing the driven fan with an electric, I'll get another switch and put it into the other fitting. It also has the tranny cooler in it for autos. It does the job, that's apparent already. It's funny that all four of the 5/8" ones I got that were supposed to be 1 5/16" were all metal, brass and copper. This one which was supposed to be 5/8", is plastic and aluminum. Whatever. It was $99 and I had it in two days, one if you order it on a weekday. Oh, and it was made in China!! The others were made in Thailand, and I can't remember where the CSf one was made.

It would be esier to do this with a carbed car just by installing a weber and using larger jets, and a hot coil.

Does this happen after it gets up to temp also, when the t-stat opens and engine temps stabilize? Or just when you first start it? You may have some air space in the rad, even with an overflow, to allow for expansion of the coolant. That air space may be pushed out into the reservoir and that's what your seeing. But I bet it's a cracked head. Does it overheat at all? If the exhaust is getting into the coolant, it will super heat the coolant to the point where the rad cannot compensate.

The egr will make a difference, on my hatch there was really bad pinging under load, uphills, accelleration, untill I removed the egr and dug out all the carbon blocking the ports, and the passages in the manifold. After that, no ping. I just drove to work yesterday with the egr disconnected on my loyale and it was pinging all the way. Hooked it back up and no ping.

Did you varify that the egr passages were open by pushing on the egr diaphram to see if the engine stalls? Check the heat sheilds on the exhaust if you haven't yet.

I ordered one(5/8" core) from Autozone today, have it tuesday which is good, that's my first of three days off so I can FINALLY get a new rad in the car. It's a Transpro, same part number as the one I just got, and returned from Jc Whitney, which was the same as the one I ordered from Complete radiators, just a different sticker on the same "made in thailand" part. Just cheaper, $99.

I checked them too, all the rads they offer are the same as the rad websites, which means Rockauto can't get the 2 row anymore either. All these places are just a catalog store, meaning the rad are drop shipped from the manufacturer. The only difference is the price and how fast you want to have it. I wanted a 2 row, or thick core because I had replaced the one in an 89 GL-10 turbo a few years back with one and even with the turbo, and ac, and my heavy foot, the temp never came up! Oh well, all good things............

Thanks, The clutch fan is working, the electric fan is also working. I hope and believe that the headgaskets are ok at this point. Or at least not the cause of the high temps. When I go to work at 12-3 PM, its hot and the temp goes up unless I turn the heat on. When I come home 12-3 am, it's cool out and the temp doesn't go up. I have to swing by autozone today anyway to return something, I'll see if they can get that 5/8 rad for me. Transpro, or whatever, is what I have right here in a Spectre Premium box so I know what I'll get.

Proliance is the name for Modine now. Which is also Traspro, and Ready-Rad which is what I got from Complete radiators, and is also what Autozone carries. But, the one I have here form JC Whitney is the same as the one I got from Complete Rad, same rad, same box, both made in Thailand, but this one say Spectre Premium. No wonder I'm cunfused!

When it's bolted down, it's not that big of a leak, just a crack. Can you weld aluminum? Got some JB weld untill you find that piece to replace it? Or do you not need this car on a daily basis.

I just checked the website, they did chamge it and do not show the heavy duty 1 5/16 rad anymore! Good job .

Your're right, it wasn't modine, it was csf, csf 933 I believe, and in my opinion it was crap. I didn't like the craftmanship at all. I spoke to Holden when I called to confirm the dimensions of the 1 5/16" rad and he was awesome! Very professional, very thorough, in fact he called to the Dallas warehouse and had someone go out, open the box, and measure it. But that man had no idea what part of the rad was the core and ended up measuring the tank! I'm not too sure why he had Dallas do this, my order came out of Philli, or Pittsburg, I can't remember now. And I even wrote in the notes area of the order form for them to confirm the core thickness before shipping and to contact me if it was different. I didn't get any response, just the wrong rad at my door. Isn't Visteon, or Valeo Modines new name? I remember Holden talking about that and that's where I got modine from I guess. They were very professional, very easy to deal with, and they weren't misleading at all, the manufacturer is by selling a 5/8" rad in place of a 1 5/16" rad. But, radiator barn hasn't changed the website to reflect this have they? Isn't that close to misleading? If they show two in stock, is there some way that you could confirm this, like have someone actually look at them? I would order it if I knew that's what I was going to get. I've been driving to work in 90 degree heat with the heater on to keep it from overheating! Mostly on hills. Four weeks I've been going back and forth with this, order a rad, send it back, order another one, send it back. One is in route now to be returned, and one is sitting here next to me and will be sent back tomorrow. Both I have payed for! Almost $300 of my money just out there. I worked in the parts business for a while, I know what it's like to have a customer get irate and angry with me when I did everything right and the manufacturer is the one that screwed up. It sucks, but that's just the way it is.

Bump, Anyone in her area willing to help?

92 Loyale I have orderd a two row (1 5/16" core) radiator from Radiator Barn, got the 5/8", one from Complete Radiators, got the 5/8" one, one from JC Whitney, got the 5/8" one. The ones from JC, and Complete were the same exact rad from the same manufacturer, and of very high quality, just different stickers on the box. The one from Rad Barn was crap and I would not have used it anyway. But, every place sent me a return tag without a problem. But none of them has any intentions to change their webpages to reflect thet the two row, or thicker core rad has been superseeded by the thinner 5/8" core rad. They all kept trying to feed me this crap that they are a high efficiency rad and would do the job of the thicker two row. Well, that would be fine but the rad they send me is a copper/brass unit with the same cooling fins per inch and same amount of tubes from tank to tank as the aluminum one that's in the car now!, How is that more efficient? I know full well that it's the same rad as if I ordered the 5/8" one. I even called first to confirm that it was still availabe! Confirming the dimensions with them too! I even called the manufacturer, both of them, to confirm that it was still available, and all these phone operators say yes it's available and it is a 1 5/16" core rad, then act dumbfounded and surprised when I call back and tell them I got the wrong one. But still won't change the website to make it easier for future customers. I believe I had a Spectra Premium from JC and Complete, and Rad Barn was a Modine. So, has anyone ordered a 2 row rad lately, and who did you order it from? If I can't find one by monday, I'm ordering the 5/8" from JC for $99. The 1 5/16" one was $153 from them, and I got the 5/8" one, so I might as well save myself some cash if that's all I'm going to get right?

It could also be the IAC, Idle Air Control solenoid. Try spraying some carb cleaner in it. If not, remove it and soak the hard parts, not the electrical parts of course, in carb cleaner. There's a screw on the throttle body that adjust the air for idle, it looks like a big set screw.

I remeber a post about someone having the disty recurved. They said the shop mentioned how similar it was to the toyota disty. Do a search here for the info. Also, it would be best to have it done by a disty pro.

As Bucky mentioned, a cracked head, or bad headgasket will usually introduce combustion gasses into the coolant, that's where the bubbles come from. Top off the coolant in the radiator, leave the cap off, start the car and just hang out and watch for bubbles. A flashlight pointed into the rad cap hole is sometimes better to see the bubbles. Also, did it overheat THEN start blowing white smoke? Or did the smoke come first , then it overheated. Overheating is never good, and could make a simple problem a much bigger one. If the intake manifold gasket(s) leaked, it would introduce coolant into the combustion chambers and would produce the white smoke, or steam really. After a fair amount was lost into the engine, it would have overheated simply due to the lack of coolant. this overheating may have very well cracked the head(s), a more severe problem. If it overheated first, then started steaming, It could still be a cracked head or head gasket but not likely. Usually when this happens it's gradual not instant. Unless you drive like a knob thinking your on a racetrack all the time. Gradual meaning it would run hotter but not overheat at first, then after a while, hours, days, weeks even, it would get hotter and hotter then overheat. When the head cracks, it cracks between the exhaust and intake ports. The crack can go into the cooling jacket and this can introduce exhaust gasses directly into the coolant, producing bubbles, and also super heating the coolant. This super heating is too hot for the radiator to deal with and it overheats. Sometimes only moments after starting the car. The radiators on these cars corrode and clog up easily, and it' very common for the rad to be the source of the prblem. It can't remove the heat from the coolant, the engine overheats, heads crack, head gaskets fail, and your where you are right now. The modulator Bucky mentioned is a unit that uses engine vacuum to regulate the line pressure inside the tranny, when the diaphram inside tears, tranny fluid will be drawn into the engine by the engine vacuum and when that tranny fluid burns, it's big fluffy white smoke, but very stinky. Antifreeze steam smells sweet. Had the car been running hotter then usual before this happened? Was it in the summer when you would have had the air conditioner on? Has the radiator ever been replaced? Will it overheat instantly when started or only after driving a while? How long has the car been sitting since this happened?

How is that changer holding up? Everything I've bought from harbor freight was cheap china crap! My grandfather had an old one, like 50 years old that we used all the time, you get a workout, but it's worth it.

Please let us know how they are treated by Subarus R Us, I've driven past that place dozens of times when I hauled freight and wondered why they're not on this board!

You made it! Great . Guys, I answered the ad she placed to sell this car, and to be honest, I could tell she didn't want to part with it so I introduced her to the board. If there's anyone that has had experience with head gaskets/cracked heads that's local, could you help out? Advice, parts, labor? How familiar are you with tinkering with a car? There are a few things to check to narrow down the problem.

It could also be done by having the carb mounted on the intake side of the carb so it pulls through the carb. BIG jets are needed and it's basically tuned for wide open and full boost so at lower rpm it may not run correctly on the street.