Frank B

it is possible that your 180 degrees out. Lift the disty and rotate 180 and drop it back in. If not, try lifting the disty and rotating the engine untill the next tdc mark and #1 cylinder at tdc and drop it back in.

With fuel injection it could be many things. From the fuel pump to the CTS, TPS, O2 sensor, etc. These should get you started; http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1024904/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/vehicleSelected.htm Within the Autozone repair guide are the testing procedures for the sensors. Here's the TPS; http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1024904/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280066fb8

Have you measured it to see if this is the case? If you add up all the "scratches" in the cross hatch, you'll probably have more area there than in those pits.

That would be ok for now, as long as it's completely closed. if it's open just a bit it will cause poor idling. It should really only be open around at high vacuum, acceleration or high load. You can bypass that solenoid for now and use a new hose from the base of the throttle body to the egr. That solenoid only opens up when the engine is warm. You bypass it, you may have a stumble when the engines cold, but it will be fine. If that solenoid isn't opening, or staying open, you'll get a check enge light. I have that going on on my car. A used, thought to be good solenoid didn't fix it either.

Pics/diagram of the Carter/Weber carb, it may help. http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/06/5a/fe/small/0900c15280065afe.jpg http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/06/5a/ff/small/0900c15280065aff.jpg

What I meant was were the test connectors connected correctly, but I think now that they were. It could also be a sticking egr valve itself. Sticking open a bit. Remove it, clean the carbon off with carb cleaner and try again. it has a lot to do with the cold idle, warm idle, everything really. The ecm uses the input of the sensors, cts, tps, maf, O2, etc to know what the engine is doing, what you want it to do, and what environment it is in to know how to adjust fuel and ignition so it runs properly. it could be the CTS, and the ECM thinks the engine is warm so the mixture isn't rich enough to run properly when cold. Remove it, clean the corrosion off of it, the threads in the manifold, and the electric connector.

Try spraying carb cleaner at every hose connnection, and all over the carb. If there's a leak the idle speed will change. Also try removing every vacuum hose, one at a time, and cap it. The vacuum may be leaking away from the engine, like in the brake booster.

I wouldn't be surprised if it's the ECM itself. That black cube is the egr solenoid, you should also have one for the purge valve on the vapor canister. They're all junk. There's a post on here somewhere about replacing them with Toyota ones. It doesn't have anything to do with the EGR temp. If your car isn't a Cali model, I say replace the ECM, since you don't even have an egr temp sensor. You did have the connectors connected right?

Maybe another sensor is the problem, like the coolant temp sensor. Follow that link to Autozone repair guide I left in the other post and check the test procedures for all the other sensors. Fuel injection introduces a rich fuel mixture at start up for a "choke", if it starts then that isn't the problem. You don't need a diagnostic tool; http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

Well if the IAC is working, and the idle just isn't fast enough, you may need to adjust the idle speed. To test IAC; http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId,1772102/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280066fc6 For idle, there is a screw on the thottle body, I think this picture is for the turbo, but it's recessed a bit and turning it should raise or lower the idle.

Be sure to remove all the old grease from the knuckle before installing the new bearings. It's best to use brake parts cleaner, it doesn't leave a residue behind. It's a good time to take the brake pads out and scratch them off with some emory cloth, the rotors too to get the glaze off. Next time you do wheel bearing, get the 6207 2rs, it has a rubber seal on each side. You pop one seal out and install the bearing with the remaining seal on the outside of the knuckle, next to the wheel seal. this way the dirst has two seals to get passed before getting into the bearing. The good thing about our wheel bearings is that it's a common size used in lawn mowers and washing machines among other things. So they're usually cheap and easy to find. http://cgi.ebay.com/6207-2RS-Neptune-Washer-Bearing-35x72-C3-ABEC3_W0QQitemZ220355664198QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item220355664198&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 http://cgi.ebay.com/6207-2RS-6207-RS-6207RS-6207-35X72X17-BEARINGS-4-PCS_W0QQitemZ120371865857QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0

You may have to adjust the idle speed screw, close the throttle plate a bit. It may be open too much and running off of the primary venturi, instead of the idle circuit. It's a balancing act, and by the time you get it right, you may be ready to toss the carb acrossed the shop......

Yes, just a fine spray. the fuel needs to be atomized to burn. The very fine mist increases the surface area of the fuel, allowing more vapors to be created, and burn. Liquid gas will not burn, just the vapor. It's kind of like starting a fire in a woodstove, if you toss a big log in it, it will not catch flame. But if you were to split that same log into 50 pieces of kindling, it will flare up and burn hot. You really should have cleaned all passages when you had the carb apart.

The engine shouldn't do that, even if the cams were all out of time. This is a non-interference engine, the pistons will never touch the valves when the timing belts break. So there should not be anything inside the engine that would cause this, unless you droped a tool in there, or when you removed the intake, coolant filled a cylinder?? Remove the spark plugs and try turning it by hand. Is the car in gear?

What turns to a point then locks up?? The distributor? The distributor can be pulled out and rotated a bit, then put back in to give you more advance/retard. But, if you have to do that, then you usually have bigger problems. If your asking which engines you can swap, and EA82 engines will drop in. But if you have SPFI, or MPFI, or Turbo, you want the same block, the compression ratios are different, the head are different etc.

Sounds like you have the proper experience to work on Subarus

If the car was in 4wd, and the parking brake set, the locked front wheels would have kept all of the wheels from turning. But not without binding. The rear and fronts are only connected through the tranny, as you know, so the rear wheels trying to turn while being dragged up onto the truck would have put a lot of pressure on the tranny. I say, tell your boss the car is broken, take it to the dealer to have it repaired or a new or rebuilt tranny put in it, and give your boss the bill. this is a manual tranny car right?

I don't think a bent pan blocking the pickup tube will keep the oil pressure from droping, but it would cause oil starvation and tear up some bearings. Is the engine getting up to normal temps? I think your right to think it's the spring you modified, that would be the first place to start. I like the spring trick though, I'll keep that in mind whenever I get to reseal my engine.

They should at least give you a VIP parking spot for a month! I've had a few bosses that WANTED to tow mine away!!

Get that oil pan off, the pickup tube is in there and could be damaged if the pan is bent bad enough. You'll have to remove the exhaust and the engine mount nuts and lift the engine an inch or two. Is the engine heating up to proper temps? Are you sure it's the valve cover gaskets? Every gasket and seal will leak and should be replaced with quality parts.

step by step http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c15280065999

You would have to remove the valve covers to remove the pushrods, and the lifter, or what ever rides the cam on the ea81, would need to be replaced with the cam. They wear together. Did you get stronger valve springs with the cam?

How serious of a radio does she have in the car? Or is it stock. The alt is only 60 amp, if you were to have a high power radio in it, it could be too much for the alt with other things on.

It's been too long since I had a Hitachi apart to remember, but do the auxiliary venturis come out of the Hitachi? If so, there may be a small o ring between it and the inner bore. Use this Weber diagram to see what I mean. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/carbdetails/explviewparts/32_36_DFEV.pdf I'm saying this because I had a similiar problem with a Holley 5200 and the O ring was flat, hard, and not sealing. But it may be something as simple as a warped carb body. Take it back apart and this time put a straight edge(metal ruler) acrossed the gasket surfaces, if it's warped you'll see it. If so, completely break it down, flip it over and do figure 8's on a piece of FINE emory cloth(sandpaper for metal). Make a couple passes and flip it over, you'll see how the outside edges are sanded clean, but the inner area is not, go just untill the inner area is shiny like the rest. You don't want to take off any more than you need to. Thoroughly clean the carb body and re-assemble. It may not be perfect, but it will get you by. Or double up the gasket.

You may get better response with nothing between the manifold and the distributor anyway. It would be a chance to install a good air/fuel ratio gauge too, since the O2 sensor will be isolated.