baccaruda

the wheelbase is the same; I just moved the roof and rear of the cab back, fudged the windows a bit. wheelbase was not altered. i figured a 2 door would look cooler than a 4 door.

hey caleb, if you come over, bring that pug. or make amanda bring it either way, we could pull off that trade. tim, my # is 509-263-3853, give me a call this week.

we check off topic quite a lot actually bootleg tshirts at a phish concert? you've gotta be lying! heheh

automatic or manual?

HERE we go. if your name is mcbrat and this picture looks familiar, it's because i stole the original from your photo gallery.

it's a great job in photoshop but almost too subtle.

wow. i... um.. hm. you, uh.. uhhhh... so, how's it run?

no problem!

yes, the bottle will probably say 80-85w90 or something. get an extra bottle and change the soup in the rear differential too. someone said that subaru transmissions like half synthetic and half natural gear oil in their manual trannies, and i noticed marginally smoother shifting after doing so in my wagon, FYI.

you can definitely put a dual range in. you need the console and all shift linkage, and the wiring will be a little different between them. if you can take the console and shift linkage out of each, then you'll know how to put it together right after the switch.

do you mean the big 32mm castle nut in the center? that's the axle nut, and if it's stripped, then you will likely need to replace the axle, or take the axle apart and replace that outer section with one with undamaged threads. the castle nut should have a cotter pin locking it in place (the pin goes thru the axle thru two of the notches on the nut) and under the nut are two washers, one is a little concave but mostly flat, and the other is distinctly conical; those will probably both need to be replaced if the axle nut has been loose. if the cotter pin was gone or if the axle nut was not torqued tightly enough, those could have caused this. if the wheel tilts out at the bottom, i'd wonder if the control arm bushing is worn. good luck.

all GLs are dual range, FYI. you should keep an eye on our own classifieds forum; one's sure to pop up sooner or later. good luck and welcome!

hm, i'm guessing that the DL doesn't have a tachometer and the GL does. That might be the most interesting part to add. as far as the rest of what the dash displays, it's probably a matter of changing sensors and either adding to the existing wiring harness or completely changing the wiring harness for the different or additonal gauges. I want to do the same thing to my DL brat later on as well as add power locks and windows. yes, they're easy to reach in a brat, but i want them simply because I don't have them tilt steering you say? hmmm....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7915808142&category=33550 dirty laundry included free

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?

yes, someone has done just that. try a search for engine swaps with brat in the same thread.

yes it will. try a serch for engine swaps or anything with EJ22 and EA81 or 82 in the same thread.

no, do a search for DASH and CONVERSION and you will find some research already done in this area.

with timing belts, brakes, and the new windshield, i say the price is justified. you could find a similar car for less, but you won't every time.

Kyle, I have some days off this coming week; I'll call you about the clutch.

yes, the HH is too tight. find a hill to practice adjusting it on. i've had two clutch cables fail, one was in the sheath, and one TWANGED at the pedal as the strands of the cable snapped one by one. that one lasted long enough to get to the dealership to get a new one!

i think you only have to rotate the caliper piston if the caliper has anything to do with the e-brake. so old subie rear calipers should be push-innable. the e-brake actuates with an internal screw-type mechanism which is why an e-braked caliper has to be screwed back in. clockwise as rob said! rotors SHOULD be turned because if they're smooth then 100% of their surface area can grab the brake pad. if they're glazed they won't work right, and if they're warped, then they'll only grab the brake pad on the "high" spots, and either of those conditions can cause your brakes to squeal. also, warped rotors only get worse, and reduce your brakes' stopping ability. If you feel them and they feel smooth (if you have to ask if it feels uneven, then it IS) you could get away with turning them every other brake job. my favorite tactic is to go to the JY, get an extra set of good looking front rotors, and have them turned before you do your brake job so you have some ready to go, less down time for the car that way. then you just rotate which set you use each time. i only do this with front rotors as the backs aren't serviced often enough to warrant the space and cost of another extra pair. get some extra clips too! the bleed pattern is front left, rear right, front right, rear left, i believe. i keep a turkey baster in the toolbox for removing some brake fluid from the MC before i reset the pistons. yes, opening the bleeder screw can help. some calipers come with metal shims that adhere to the backs of the pads, some don't. I usually buy pads from Napa, and they include the shims. i have a tube of orange brake goo from CRC that acts the same way if I get pads with no shims.

you could put a switch into the fuel pump circuit, you could put in a kill switch for the coil, you could disable the starter, anything comes to mind. you could wire the starter relay thru the cigarette lighter so it has to be pushed in for the key to work, as long as you or your regular passengers don't smoke. and a switch could be hidden anywhere in your car.

subyrally's just jealous. so am i.

get the 1/4" drive version if possible as it's a pretty tight fit in the axle stub.