baccaruda

are there any size differences between EA81 strut rods? will EA82s fit? (doubt it)

axles are specific between turbo cars and non turbo cars. also different are 2WD vs 4WD but they fit, they're just different sizes. manual and auto axles are the same.

well, your carbed block has a lower compression ratio than your SPFI block, for one thing. that will translate to overall less power...

give this a shot, lots of that going on. good luck. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=15917

get the one on ebay for parts, and buy wagonsonly's!

those are what we tell people to look for!

right

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/ecucodes.html

i love that video. the sound that car makes while it's flying thru the air...

i think i'm going to go to napa and/or spaldings and look at a couple side by side.

how much do you charge to build hatchbrats?

GD, do you have any update on this swap?

haven't seen your car (or its owner!) in a while, skip. what's up? car looks sharp.

no, the ball joint holes are smaller on your stock control arm, and they're aligned a little differently. why does your hatch need its control arm switched?

check for clean and intact connections at the battery. you might also need a jumpstart (or a new battery).

are there some EA81 models that didn't come with torsion bars at all? it would be far easier to swap EA81 xmembers with each other instead of wrangling an EA82 xmember in there...

YEAHHHH!

I'll send him a PM and report back here then *salute*

I've been thinking about putting EA82 rear control arms in the brat, so i can have a sway bar. I've also been interested in rear coilovers but I understand that (especially in a brat) they can be a bit much when coupled with the torsion bars. To deal with the rear coilovers, I'm interested in: removing the torsion bars - are they necessary if coilovers are installed? -OR- swapping in an EA82 rear crossmember - I'm sure it would have to be narrowed; would it then be a matter of putting EA81 brackets on it?

dibs on the champagne! *pop*

so... if you need $6k to build your GL10's engine, and you don't like the RS that you could sell for $8k, then the solution sort of presents itself, don't you think?

that's only for the front wheel drive + dual range trannys. the RX has no FWD and is a rally trans all the way. it likes abuse!

oh yeah. i like to treat it as a six speed. start in low, go 1-2-3-4-5 and then go 5-high.

hopefully you're not buying these from the dealer! meaning that the dealer clutch cables are usually the best bet. do you have a return spring on the clutch fork? if so, it may be too tight. it is possible that your clutch has a problem internally as well.

you mean your wagon was still an auto?