baccaruda

i'm going to be reclutching a friend's 93 legacy. haven't determined if it's 2.2 or 2.5 liter yet. any major differences between an EJ clutch job and an EA clutch job?

I'm game. I'll have to see about the schedules for my job and for my mom's wedding though. august is busy so far!

i'd suggest that you strip the entire bed of your brat and get it all over with at the same time. for the cost involved, i think it'd be worth doing it all only once.

didja check your spark plug/coil wires too?

hey hey hey http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/ecucodes.html

there's some model of weber that has the choke on the other side, perfect for subarus. don't know the designation.

so should I perhaps try this in my wagon's RX trans if all the gears are generally sticky and the reverse grinds?

no problem! I like their looks too, BTW, but some things are not meant to be...

i think those work best on cars with framed windows, otherwise they sit too high so they can clear the glass when the door opens/closes.. otherwise you'd have to roll the windows up and down 2 inches every time...

check your plugs too, if there was no/low spark, they might be all wet and nasty? what about that uh, thingy that grounds off of the coil, about the size of a half roll of dimes? i've heard it's prone to problems, and while you're at it, remind me what it's called

AAARGH my skin is pale sickly green from jealousy!!! all these cool one-off custom subarus running around and the general public has no idea, heh heh what about a smaller master cylinder from a different car, or relocating the battery to the back for weight?

you could snag a 17mm front sway bar from a loyale sedan and a 20mm rear sway bar from an XT, that might help push it in the corners too.

that is extremely slick. i'm curious about having the trigger wheel mounted/welded to the front of the crank pulley to solve the clearance and water pump problem? Also, if anyone's interested (heh heh) there's a JY in spokane called Bill's Fords Only Auto Dismantling. Who knows what he might have sitting on a shelf so you don't have to go dirty your tools in the domestic side of the JY I'm sitting in the middle of a disorganized mess with no phone book in sight or I'd list the #, but it's somewhere on the interweb, i'm sure. good luck and again, this is extremely cool stuff you guys are doing!

RESISTANCE IS FUTILE; YOU WILL BE ASSIMILATED!

heh. no, i just follow offroad rigs on the highway so their extra mud blows onto my car and makes me LOOK hardcore.

what part of spokane are you in? i'm living up on the north side (pacific park) starting next week.

yeah, that's an EA82 auto radiator. should be a two row core as well! is this for your lowered wagon? should go right in. If you don't need the ATF circuit, you can chop those extra two lines off of the side flush with the radiator to keep them out of the way, no harm there.

I had to dissect the CTS harness on my turbowagon (CTS itself was fine) as the wires had separated from the clips inside the plug. soldered on a couple inches of new wire and soldered those to the stock clips, reassembled the plug, and GTG. might check that, good luck.

"so!"

hmm. some center differentials use a switch-operated vacuum mechanism to lock or unlock.

that looks pretty cool.

Call Whitey's Wrecking in Spokane. (509) 489-3850 They have a brat in their yard though it's been a while since i've seen it. I don't know what their policy is on chopping out sections like that, but I'd hope for you that your fix will look as good as possible, and original Brat metal is probably the best way to go. You might ask Jerry (bratsrus) about the welding for it; he lives in Yakima and is a whiz. good luck!

you might also have a plugged catalytic converter or converters. would keep the exhaust from spooling up the turbo. you can pull the downpipe to see if that gives you back the oomph.

EDIT: take general disorder's anti dieseling solenoid first, i forgot about that! dieseling is when the car seems to keep running for a few strokes after you cut the power, and it sounds like what you're describing. it's caused by something causing the remaining fuel/air mixture to keep burning after the ignition system is shut down. sometimes it can be caused by carbon deposits in the cylinders, which store heat and can cause the dieseling; or it can be caused by timing issues although i don't know much about solving that. since your car will be carbed, you can try getting a can of seafoam and treating the cylinders with that.. run the car for like a minute when cold, to get the cylinders slightly warmed up, then pull the spark plugs out and inject a few oz. of seafoam into each cylinder, then rotate the crank pulley nut (22mm) clockwise for a few minutes to work the pistons and the seafoam up and down. after reinstalling the spark plugs, start the car (and don't worry about all the new white smoke, it's from the seafoam) and dribble some seafoam through the carburetor and through the brake booster vacuum line (instructions on the can). some people will dribble water into their carburetors, which will turn to steam during combustion, to steam clean the cylinders. too much water will take up too much space in the cylinders and catastrophically increase compression, and ruin a rod or valve or something. if you choose to use water, run the engine for a while afterward to make sure it all gets boiled off. you could also check the distributor timing but my bet is cylinder carbon deposits. if your car is an auto, shutting it off in gear will prevent the symptom of dieseling as the drivetrain will still be carrying a load and it will be too much for the afterignition to occur. good luck.

nicely done!