toybuilder

Turbo 2wd or 4wd, and N/A 4wd all use the same clutch. It has a slightly larger diameter than the N/A 2wd version. I got my clutch at the local Subaru dealer, paid a fair amount more than $200. High quality though.

There will be some differences, but there is lots of valuable info in there that applies directly to your '87.

What fixed it?

IMO, if you never overheat or abuse your engine you won't gain anything by using gen 3 heads.

This might be too obvious, but did you replace the shaft seal on the oil pump when you rebuilt it? Run that thing some more and see if the noise goes away, you might not have a problem at all....

I wouldn't assume you have a problem, unless the lifters and still noisy after a few hours of run time. Sometimes it takes a while to refill the lifters with oil. It has been this way on both ea82s that I have rebuilt, and someone else posted similar experience recently. A quick search should turn up more info than you want about noisy lifters. Here is a link to Cameron's article that Skip mentioned if you want to check it out. http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/ea82_hydraulic_lifter_fix.htm Skip, the oil passage o-ring between the head and block is part of the head gasket, no need to glue it in place. I believe that you are thinking of the cam case o-ring. The one between the head and cam case. That is the one that doesn't like to stay seated in my experience.

A2030-32021 is the http://www.power-auto-parts.com/ part number, not the NDC part number. They do sell NDC bearings, I called them to verify it.

Indeed, nothing wrong with Federal Mogul. For what it's worth, I would recommend that anyone replacing their bearings use the turbo version of the rod bearing. They are better, and like Keith pointed out, cheaper too. I am fairly certain that the rod bearings are the same for ea81 and ea82 1800cc engines.

Glad to hear that things worked out for you. Thanks for sharing the Federal Mogul part #.

I did some digging around myself and found this. Took about 10 minutes, searching for "NDC engine bearings". NDC makes them for Subaru. http://www.power-auto-parts.com This is one of the better parts links that I have come across. Go there and search for your year, make, and model. They list a different part number for turbo and non- turbo bearings. Good price for EXACTLY the same thing you will get from the dealer.

Yes. There are 4 holes in the center cover. Each one is directly over one of the tensioner bolts. You can remove the passenger side and driver side timing covers fairly easy, leave the center cover on so you don't have to pull the crank pulley. There isn't much room to work with the radiator in there. Good luck.

Did it make the light go out, or do you still have a problem? I wasn't aware that our cars had any mileage triggered warning lights...

The solenoid that operates the EGR valve is probably bad. I'm pretty sure that the light will turn off by itself when the problem is fixed.

My guess, It would take way less time to pull the fuse and see for yourself, rather than post this and wait for an answer. Really, how long could it take to pull a fuse... Give it a try, it's the best way to learn, IMHO.

I am currently replacing the heater core in my wife's soon to be Loyale, and I can certainly agree with trooperjeep, heavy drinking is the only way to make this job tolerable. Not only was the cost of the replacement heater core painfull, the entire job sucks! Good thing that I love this car!! Give it your best shot at a flush...

I don't make s**t up... I post real info, hopefully my experience can save someone else some time and or $$. Good luck with your repairs.

You can use the non-turbo bearings, or you can suck it up and buy them from the dealer. Try http://www.1stsubaruparts.com, about $180 for the turbo rod bearings, if I remember right. OR if you can can find a supplier of NDC bearings I can give you the actual NDC part #. (NDC is the supplier for Subaru) Good luck. I could not find an aftermarket source for turbo rod bearings.

The U-joints are not replaceable.... Good luck!

Sounds like the turbo. Not quite as bad as my RX but probably getting there. Anytime that I get boost I get lots of white smoke. It's not consuming any coolant, just oil. If I baby it and stay out of the boost, no smoke...

That's not the one I was talking about. Although I did see the one you are talking about at Action on Friday. It was in an old black 4 door RX, right. Tapered Craftsman punch. All I did, was clamp my vice grips onto the punch and try to hammer it out. Didn't work, and they were closing so I left. Not my punch. It behaved like an open diff because the car was in gear and in 4wd, the lsd slipped rather than turn the engine over... It was fine once I shifted it out of gear. Did you see the XT-6 at another yard. (They wanted $200 for all the 5-lug swap parts, too much, I think!) I'l prolly grab the engine, wire harness, and ecu, if it's still there Monday. The other LSD I speak of is removed from the car with the control arms, axles, etc, still attached. I'm going back to buy the whole mess Monday morning. I'll use the LSD, control arms, and sway bar on my wagon, and sell the disc brake parts. The axles are shot.

I'm trying to retrieve an LSD from one of the local yards. I got the axle pins out, but the axles are stuck on both sides! They wont budge, I guess that they are rusted onto the stubs. I worked on it until the yard closed and kicked me out. I want to go back, but I'm out of ideas. I have tried: 1. Penetrating oil and a crowbar 2. Penetrating oil, brass punch, and BFH 3. Heat from propane torch, brass punch, and BFH (penetrating oil is flammable!!) They will not budge! What next? Any ideas?

I found it easiest to remove the oxygen sensor after first completely removing the y-pipe from the car. You need an o2 sensor socket. You can get them at most auto parts stores. The socket will have a slot on one side for the wire to pass through. Spray liberally with your favorite penetrating oil and let it soak for a while, then good luck, it's not going to be easy....

The difference is that the turbo rod bearings are wider. You can only get them from Subaru or from NDC (the original manufacturer for Subaru). I think all the after market places only offer the non-turbo version, for either application.

Same crank and same Main Bearings. EA82 Turbo had different Rod Bearings, but they are interchangeable. The turbo ones are better. Piston Rings are the same too.

I'm going to do this same thing soon. XT steering rack into my Loyale turbo wagon. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks!