josh long

I took it upon myself to delete my previous post as it was late and I possibably had a blured reality. I will offer my apology to DJ, and wish him the best of luck. If you lived closer I would even buy you a beer. Josh

I have not chosen a scoop as of yet.... I like to call it my little heat sink, all joking aside It does at speed have enough air moving across it to feel the difference after a hard drive between pre and post pipes. Pvc is by far the cheapest route it does not flow nearly as well as mandrels but what are you going to do for <$6? Josh

Yeah, I just happened to look through the "bargin" bin at my local auto parts store and found one for $14.99

I have them in the same place on my Galant vr4. I paid less than 30 for both.........The gauges in my galant were more $ than I have in this whole car, boy if I could start that project over again.

I finally caught up with the 90's and got a digital camera. I have created a folder for you to all laugh at my cobbled together car. http://usmb.net/gallery/album157 I'm not the most computer literate, I could not find the name feature for the folder.

Look here for more info on water injection. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10734

FREE 4 ALL Please see the link for the Ford motorsport water injection system. http://usmb.net/gallery/album157/intercoolerspray Josh

This seems to have been used by a number if high horsepower motorsports like rally (WRC and group A level) and dragracing. If there is intrest and I can get ahold of a scanner I can dig up the ford motorsport diagrams with part numbers, for their H2o injection that was used on their Escort cosworths. Josh

We were just talking about this here> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10369&perpage=25&pagenumber=1 Excerpt from above thread....... "from what I know of our systems, it does the same thing...but there is a limit on how much the ECU can retard the disty. If its already retarded all the way, and its still detonating, there is nothing it can do about it. Down low, i think the engine can do 30 deg, and put out a ton of power, but up high, its gets tricky and wants 25...then 20. Then its not putting any power due to the speed of things, and the lack of an IC, lots of compression, and crappy crossover pipe....that and cams and other things that need sorting before we can make power up high like the EJs can. Oh, the knock sensor puts out AC voltage according to knock. more AC, more knock, and vice versa." Josh I can testify if you run too much boost and you get "BAD" knock like say running up a long hill with 10 psi........... The knock sensor can't hang.

This is basically direct intercooling, it cools intake air drasticly. You can do this with or without an intercooler. It is good! Most people run window washer fluid during the cold months to prevent freezing. more good reading. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=diy+water+injection&btnG=Google+Search Josh

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/ You can build one of these for much less if you are crafty. This is airplane technology from the 30's, pretty simple. Josh

I flipp floped the cams to the proper, drivers side up, pass side down (without turning the motor over) And the power is back. Now if I had not broken that bolt........ GRRRRRRRRR. Josh

Your right this engine does not flow well at all. I think you must know you cannot run as much timing on a turbocharged car at 6000 rpm at boost as you can at say 2000rpm with little to no boost. Why would you not want to run as much timing as possible at any given boost / rpm range? For engine safety, or driveability, to deal with possible bad gas? If you want to get that fun push you back in the seat feeling you need pop! There is always some risk to play. How do you tune your fuel and timing maps? This is how I have tuned a 2.3l stroked ej20 with 2.5 heads on a haltech ek6. I was asuming you want to tune for power right? There are ways to deal with the pitfalls of a poor combustion chamber design (detonation). One is water injection (cheap, water is free!) another is fuel ( bigger injectors). Josh

For optimum performance you will want equidistant runners like the ones seen in this link > http://www.syms.jp/products/impreza/gc/ex.html Although anything will be an improvement. Josh

I have done this job no less than 10x on various ea82 engines. For posteritys sake I have a 88 turbo wagon with a 2 row radiator, manual boost controler set to 10 psi, cone filter, WRX intercooler and BOV, a hard wired electric fan no clutch fan, all stupid vacume evap can lines dissconected and capped and a water temp and boost gaudge. This thing ran like a CHAMP until it twisted a timing belt tensioner off. Josh

At least find the voltage output from the egt and o2 (0-1v?)before you just try it. unless you want to fry it. No egt should be fine it just will more than likely put the ecu in "safe" mode. Josh

I have a question. On other efi systems the knock sensor is a simple micraphone retard setup. The knock sensor hears knock and the ecu reads the count (amount of knock) and pulls timing x degrees until no knock then feeds in timing until it "sees" knock again. This is on a distributorless set up though. How does our ecu read knock and how does it deal with it accordingly? Boost without timing is useless but if you want to " say" your running XXX lbs of boost. The object is to get the most amount of timing possible, without knock. Has anyone tried water injection? This is proven to be the best "bang for your buck" knock reduction device. I completely agree on your assessment of the exhaust system. this is the single biggest restriction in our setups. I believe when I pulled off my muffler with only a cone filter I saw 10psi boost without changeing the stock boost control setup. ( from memory (bad) ) This was just the stock muffler! And yes the crossover pipe is terrible. Josh

I am looking for ideas as to why my car that was running great until I had timing belt issues now has flat power....... Nothing in my set up changed. Would being one tooth off on the timing belts effect it this much? It is possible I got it off by one tooth on one of the belts. It starts and fires easily, just flat power even on boost ( 10 psi wrx intercooler and bov) The turbo spools at the same rate just nothing..................... Well I will tear into it tomorrow just looking for thoughts while i'm at work. Thanks Josh Ps I put the drivers side cam down and the pass side up ................ bet thats it. I'm dumb!

has this thing run well ever since rebuild? seems odd but have you checked compression? timing belts? dist timing? plug leads swapped? I have at one time or another run into one of these. I also had a cam follower fall off as I was putting one cam case and it took me for ever to find it........... is the ecu known good? well I'm sure much of this is redundant but give it a try. Josh

the owner of this shop has this set up in his wagon it's sweet!!! It is on pacific ave in spanaway wa.

go to the auto parts store and ask for a split boot. this allows you to install it with out removing anything other than the tire. It took me about 10min. this only helps if it is not clunking yet. you will only need a phillips screwdriver and some pliers / dikes.

This is quite commont if you get too much sealant on the cam cases. It can plug the passage that pumps up the lifters. I've done it before:o

This has been going around a while. http://www.specialstage.com/forum/cgi-bin/DCForumID14/955.html josh

Me too!

http://www.performanceradiator.com/ Josh