idosubaru

he doesn't. he isn't free.

i didn't see any questions at all, i'm not even sure what you're asking. autotrader, craigslist, used car lots, ebay, lots of places to buy cars, just start searching. here's the best advice - buy one from down south (or out west but prices are really high out there and probably further away). fly down, and drive it back so you don't have any rust issues for awhile.

however you want to say - i'm glad you're okay with it? not if it's free? i've lifted, modified, converted, rebuilt, reconstructed, swapped subarus, let people borrow my cars for months at a time, given away cars for free.."not as intended" isn't a concern, i'm not your average driver and don't expect others to do anything remotely close to what i'm doing. back to the regularly scheduled program please!

this is one case where i'd try stop leak first. if it doesn't work you're just throwing the old rack away anyway, so why not? otherwise yeah you can use gobs and gobs of steering racks. 95-99 legacy or outback will work - they have different steering ratios which probably only matters if you're really concerned, performance, minded, etc. impreza racks probably even work too - but you shouldn't have any trouble finding a leg/outback one.

mic the sleeves first to verify that is actually the issue.

soldering wire internally and running it externally is a nifty idea - i did that to a McIntosh amp.

i've disassembled water logged laptops that were running while the compromise happened. pieces all across a table with a fan blowing across them for 2 days (moving dry air is ideal) and assembled with good results. if the pin was corroded from water logging are you not concerned about anything else corroding? was it salt water or freshwater? i've got extra ECU's.

yep, there's nothing to it - just pulls out and pushes back in. if it sounds complicated, you're over thinking it. it's tight so it'll be harder the more limited your mobility/strength/access/tools. actually it's just like your 2000 as well - the stubby shafts in all older 4EAT's pull right out as well, they're just not integrated into the axle. axle and stubby shaft. newer stuff that is just one piece, not two so to speak.

i've done a few over the years and just used high temp/synthetic cv/wheel bearing grease. it simply needs something - they're really low key gears that simply need something. i think every one i've ever removed in the past 10 years has basically had nothing, caked up gummed residue of what used to be grease 20 years ago.

does the check engine light work? read the codes - it's possible to have a pending code and no check engine light on the dash. how long have you owned this vehicle? you're saying that a fuse is installed in the FWD fuse holder? if so - there is not supposed to be a fuse in that holder - i'd remove that fuse and see what happens. the heating control lights is very common due to the silly placement of the drink holders right underneath the heating controls. the buttoms, lights, and controller are often damaged from spills sometime during the past 17 years of life.

Thanks FT. I've got a good relationship with a locksmith, he's a great guy, I'll call him tomorrow.

May depend on vehicle and cause I feel like once I adjusted one eAsily but the last one I did the engine needed jacked up an inch or so to tighten the two bolts. I feel like I didn't even unbolt the exhaust or anything, just had two lower 14mm engine nuts, lift engine, tighten nuts.

There is only one size EA HLa, they shouldn't be wrong?? Mizpah engineering sells them for a few bucks each, real cheap.

I don't want the cost and cumbersome reliance on the dealer. Glad you like them but it's no value to me. I'm not worried about someone stealing my car for a variety of reasons.

yes, no overheating or compromised oil and the blocks are good for 300k. fuel pump and alternator are most likely culprits to strand you. replacing them with OEM is expensive but good 150k insurance for "like new" reliability. adjust valves to mitigate burnt valves replace all timing components to avoid timing pulley/tensioner/belt failures reseal oil pump/cam seals, water pump because it's easy while replacing timing gear.

Inner joints respond well to clean, regrease, and reboot. The couple of vibrating and popping inner joints I've rebooted are still going strong years later with no issues, two of them on lifted soobs. That being said I wouldn't try that if I was paying labor or uncertain it was an OEM/MWE axle. Rebooting a used Subaru axle is good option. I've bought tons of $25-$30 Subaru axles. Www.car-part.com or eBay. Make sure they're green inner joint Subaru OEM. Can usually get one with new boots and get 2-4 years out of the boots. Or reboot it before install is wise. Aftermarket boots last about 2-4 years, Subaru boots last 5-10. Id lean towards Subaru boots

Oh wow locksmiths can mess with the ECU or imob box ? I had no clue. Wonder if a tuner can reflash the ECU to remove it? Does the key physically have to be inside the lock cylinder or just close to it or touching it ? Wonder exactly how it reads the RF chip - remotely or theres actually a circuit embedded in the key blank?

i have 1key and 1 remote for my 2006 Tribeca. Has anyone disabled or tricked the immobilizer functionality? Is s new key dealer programmable only? How about install another ignition and leave the original key in the old ignition tucked away somewhere just to make the computer happy but wire starter to new ignition? Lol

That code is the equivalent of the check engine light but I'd be much less prone to ignore thT on s trans, it usually is an an actual issue unlike emissions codes, etc. 1. Fluid sounds right , check another time or three. May want to check every oil change to see if it's leaking since it was low. 2. It's a 4eat 3. Does the vehicle hAve any torque bind, duty C is most common issue. 4. Check pan make sure its not dented. The clearance between pan and solenoids/electrical connectors is dinky. I've repaired cracked solenoids from pan dents.

And I have swapped an entire door before just for a failed motor. 4 bolts, one connector and the pin and you're done, super easy. But Im not comfortable with power windows in Subarus and dislike them for it.

I generally pull the interior door panel on both sides (easy) so I can compare to a working set up.

Are you positive it's not from power steering or oil spillage during an oil change, etc? Is it the original engine? The stock EJ18 or Ej22 in that car doesn't typically leak from VCG to spark plug tubes.

EXCELLENT - yes, do that. pull the fuse and see if symptoms go away.

yes, tone rings are on the hubs at each knuckle, if that's what you mean? tires, and more is kind of what i was leading towards with the history questions - has he ever known this car to not have these issues? or any recent work?

convert it to cable clutch and have a more reliable set up, with no bleeding, slave cylinder and hose issues? LOL