idosubaru

I'd prefer mechanical, well versed, and significant experience on Subarus. the marketing bent folks that know service packages more than engines/systems they're for do not impress me. But you're working with a population largely hands off with their vehicles, so there's quite a gap between members of this forum and your average customers.

no apologies needed, talking on forums isn't as easy as in person. doubtful both had the exact same brand, tread depth, and age tires. a FWD with Nokian snow tires could outperform a 4WD with all seasons in certain situations. then there's ground clearance, weight, different parking spots aren't exactly the same...one could be rutted, icy, the other packed snow, more slope, more uneven...etc. maybe that car wasn't in great mechanical condition - high miles, warn clutch packes, there are rear VLSD's...but they can not work well sometimes...i've seen Subaru's get out when another 4WD vehicle coudln't and those are the stories shared on subaru forums...but i've seen the other way around happen too - a Subaru get stuck when it seemingly shouldn't. and there's probably 10 other variables i haven't thought of.

yep those cone washers are typically problematic....though i can't imagine those doing that for years without issue? front differentials can whine under load (decel and accel).

that's probably about right for the northwest - prices out there are way high. that would be really high out here too. listing appears gone. due to age and Subaru specific knowledge of that swap - the price is not affected by the engine swap. so compare it to all the other subaru's in your area via craigslist, used car lots, autotrader, etc and you'll see quickly what the going rates are. consider it equal to any other vehicle with the original EJ25.

in the US market - all 1996 - 1999 DOHC EJ25 and 96-98 EJ22 ECU's are interchangeable. i don't know what 4G means - but it doesn't mean anything in the US...well except that it's an AT&T engine i guess. LOL

oh good call, i missed that - those compressor orings are usually brittle and in bad shape. use that write up i did as a reference if you have any detailed questions, it's probably covered in there. it's pretty simple though, clean it up and replace oring. they're almost all one bolt and that's it. the a/c compressor orings are easy to match up in the kits in the stores. the smaller orings in the rest of the system are usually a little trickier and you have to use the closest one you can find if you're using those big kits of multiple sizes/selections. there's usually a lot of dirt around the fitting so pre-clean before disassembly to keep it from falling in. my cousin is an HVAC guy for the military and he told me years ago to hold one valve open while charging from the other valve or while one of the pipes are open just before bolting it back on tightly - leave it slightly gapped - that would be a ghetto way to push a lot of gas/air out of the system. i've done that a couple times but mostly like i said the systems are so robust it's not really worth it.

you repeated everything i said. technical hair splitting aside: 1. a VLSD locks up when the fluid heats up - or *it slips* 2. an auto transmission locks up when sensors tell it - or *it slips* technicalities and theory discussion add nothing to those two symptoms. they both require slippage to operate. there may be room to discuss which is quicker or Northwet's comment, but they both *require* slippage - or a delay...exactly what the original poster doesn't want. this guy doesn't have an MT anyway and the AT is better since you *can* control "lock up" yourself - with no slippage required. I want to control when it locks - not have VLSD fluid or electronics do it for me...same as the original poster of this thread. can't do that with a MT, you can with an AT.

no need for a puller tool or tie rod tool for Subaru tie rods, i've never used one anyway. get good tie rods in there. you can adjust toe yourself like fairtax said. you can also google at home alignments and toe is easy to set with nothing but string and jack stands. no need to take it back for toe settings. It may depend on the vehicle and parts - they are the same on some Subarus and different left to right on others. If they have a curve to them - they are different left to right as the curve going "out" towards the front will cause it to rub some wheels...if they're straight and look the same then they're identical left to right. none of this should cause any harm to the tie rods. I wouldn't want to be blamed for 300,000 mile tie rods failing...LOL

You've got lots of options. There's no reason to vacuum the system. Replace the oring and charge with two cans of refrigerant and the car will work great for the next 100,000 miles. Get another metal line if you have any wonder that it may be the issue - or if it looks like it's been struck/been in an accident previously. Ollies had cans of refrigerant for $5.60 each around here, I bought a bunch. So for $11 you're done. Or order online at Advance auto parts with a big 20% - 40% off coupon and pick it up in the store. I've done it gobs of times with 100% success. Technically speaking maybe it takes an extra 28 seconds to ramp up to full operating capacity. Maybe it cools to 53 degrees instead of 51....it's all drops in a bucket. A/C still runs another 100,000 miles without issue. I have a temp gun - I can take temp readings of mine and compare to others. I have gobs of cars (my own and friends) that I've done this too so I can check them all. Here's the funny thing - I have a vacuum puller and full sets of gauges - and I haven't used them in years. It's not convenient, set up, or I'm doing the work over a friends house, in my parking lot at my office...when I know it really doesn't matter, Subaru's are so robust and simple it's not worth my time. You can probably rent vacuum pullers too - i feel like the advance auto parts here in town had one recently....check with local stores or tool rental places that rent scaffolding, etc. Or just have the shop pull the vacuum - they shouldn't charge much for that. You install the oring and you charge it. A recently nonoperating system isn't likely empty - When it first reaches atmoshperic pressure (no hissing out the valve) - it still has *only* refrigerant in it - no air at all. It is "low", but not empty. As the a/c leaks down - it will leak until it reaches atmospheric pressure and then it STOPS....still having *only* refrigerant with no air in it the first time it reaches equilibrium. Of course thermal expansion and contraction and replacing the oring introduces air...but the system has dessicant in it, it doesn't matter either way.... That diatribe aside, Subaru A/C systems are so robust that whether you vacuum or not makes not functional difference. American vehicles (and maybe others) have enough other common issues that this approach is not effective...so that's why I qualify it with Subaru systems. And that's probably why mechanics tend to replace far more than necessary on Subarus.

on older models you simply cut the one power wire to the Duty C solenoid - very simple. install a switch for that one wire. it is an excellent idea, i'm a huge fan and have done it multiple times. i've heard the same thing - in H6 transmissions the transfer solenoid changes around 03 or 04 to a different operating scope. I think CNY Dave is familiar with it...but not sure if 4 cylinder and 6 change in the same way/same time. but yeah - you'd give it 12 volts all the time if it is indeed reversed in that way. i haven't heard of anyone doing it on a newer transmission yet. it's not a mechanical 50/50 center diff - it's a viscous center diff so it's an open differential until slip happens, heats up the fluid, and then locks it. Subaru made a 50/50 center diff in FT4WD transmissions with center diff lock in the late 80's/early 90's EA and ER vehicles which I prefer myself. it has been said the VLSD center lock up is fairly fast, i'd like to see some videos or something on that.

i've repaired a lot of Subaru a/c systems, they are very robust and rarely have failures. i have an article on the orings usually being the culprit. they're always dry and brittle by this age and prone to leak. $5 and some time and you're done. you can even recharge yourself, not a big deal at all. i do this all the time. article here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html what amazes me is i've never heard a story like this: "My a/c wasn't working and the mechanic fixed it with a 50 cent oring and recharged the system for only $80". I've never heard that story and yet I've repaired countless Subaru's with 50 cent orings. the only A/C i've repaired that was NOT an oring problem has been a leaking condensor and when i found the leak it was obviously punctured by something and eventually let loose. and of course i've seen failed A/C compressors, mostly on 80's stuff though, very few even 90's stuff. It's mind boggling how many many-hundred-dollar repairs I see when it's probably a 50 cent oring. i'm not saying yours is the orings - but i'd certainly check it out carefully to make sure it's not something simple like that. it sounds to me like you're describing a junction - hose to compressor or condensor area - sounds like orings. usually the ones on the compressor are hard and brittle and the rest are supple and good. i suppose it's the heat cycling, vibrations, etc of the engine and compressor. if the car has ever been in an accident or lots of engine area work - where the hose has been moved or stuff lying on it much - then it's more likely to have a leak at the hose or condensor. but it's rare in Subaru's. personally, since I always recharge myself, and have never really seen a hose or condensor failure - i'd just replace with used.

cleaning - you're on it with the plan of attack there. the yellow roloc disks made for aluminum are often used too, available at napa, keep in mind to still be cautious and don't go bonkers on it. i probably already said it - but GD has a fantastic post on how to resurface your old heads. it's worth the time savings alone. i've replaced tons of those orings - get them from Subaru just like you did and clean up, install new orings while it's apart. power steering has more than sufficient fasteners holding it in place, leave the bolt out, i routinely leave out a power steering and a/c compressor bolts, there are way too many anyway. you can try a longer bolt and see if you can reach existing threads deeper in the block (i do this all the time, but have never done it on a p/s pump bolt) - best to clean it out with a tap first though if it's already hogged up. or yeah - helicoil it if you want to.

it's been awhile since i did one but i think the fan has to come out...i tossed the last one i did in the trash.

probably a good chance of making 10's of thousands of miles with just headgaskets....for 100k+ miles who knows. that's not typical EJ25 headgasket failure so i'd be wondering why it's doing that, how badly it was previously overheated, etc. prior overheating is the main concern. look for timing belt cover warpage due to the plastic getting to hot and ask lots of questions - if you can tell an honest person from a hacker you can generally get a good feel if this is legit or not. basically there's no way to know the condition of the engine - a legitimate technical answer would require disassembling the block and inspecting all bearing surfaces for wear...thousands of dollars of work. so it comes down to how well you can ascertain the condition with what you have and how much you like to guess. that shouldn't deter you from a $500 outback though. www.car-part.com

what he said - synchro is warn and not much you can do except to try fluids to mitigate the issue. thread should be in newer generation forum for better visibility. how does it get posted in site help/suggestions forum?

change fluid first...maybe it was just new fluid that helped it? generally avoid additives at all costs unless there's a compelling reason and significant application-specific (from subaru people) experience suggesting it's worth it. the trans-x is one of those few instances where an additive does wonders to avoid other time and money rich options. the delayed engagement issue will go away immediately, not gradually. www.car-part.com if you need parts in the future

remove fans remove hoses - coolant/ATF, overflow unbolt the two 12mm upper bolts securing the radiator in place out it comes not much to it. just remove whatever is in the way...like the fan. the mechanical fan is annoying, i'd throw it away and install an electric fan myself.

it does sound like wheel bearings but aftermarket axles are often problematic (extremely common, any google or subaru forum search shows). an issue immediatly after axle replacement is suspicious. hard to say without seeing it and knowing the history. a financially free test would be to swap the axle to the other side and see if the noise moves (axle is causing it) or stays (wheel bearing). with future axle issues, there are cheaper alternatives to aftermarket that are 100% reliable: 1. reboot your existing axle 2. get a used OEM axle from the yard - i get them for $25 - $33 (cheaper than aftermarket) www.car-part.com 3. reboot your used axle if you want to spring the extra bucks. personally i'd rather reboot a noisy OEM axle than buy a new aftermarket. not recommending it, i've just wasted so much time on aftermarket axles it's not worth it any more.

sure it's the master cylinder? they very rarely fail in Subaru's.. most master cylinder replacements don't fix the issue at hand, so make sure diagnosis is dead on. since they almost never fail, used is a good option for Subarus. i've got a couple for $20 i'd send you or www.car-parts.com, good website to know anyway. there are quite a few master cylinders, i'd do a lot of cross checking to make sure. the main differences are the number of physical lines that attach to the master cylinder itself. i'm pretty sure i've seen 2 line, 3 line, and 4 line variants. i've definitely gotten the wrong one before.

all basically the same cars. just get what you want. if it has an MLS headgasket - that is indeed a good thing. and a new timing belt. EJ25's often need headgaskets replaced. They leak externally - so you should inspect the lower headgasket mating surfaces for any signs of leak prior to purchase. then when you get one take note to make sure the coolant is changed and Subaru's Coolant Conditioner ($2.50) is added - it's required for that engine.

outback and legacy are the the same, just different stuff bolted on. legacy + lift blocks = Outback. The novelty of a Jeep attracts a lot of people - if you're that type then you should probably lean towards an Outback. there's not much novelty in a Subaru but the Outback would be like an artificial sweetener instead of none at all. But the main catalyst for this move suggests a legacy - better gas mileage? Some people moving from larger to smaller vehicles dislike the changes in ride height: 1. less/changed visibility 2. harder to get into/out of - low to the ground 3. less ground clearance/height which of those is more important to you - the gas mileage or the ride height characteristics? depends on the snow - whether it's dry and fluffy or heavy and wet or you're driving through not-fresh-snow (plowed burms, etc) plowed or wet snow will high center a vehicle quickly, dry powdery stuff just blows out of the way. that's why people say "I drove through 4 feet of snow in my Subaru" and others that say "I got high centered in 8" of snow?" In an outback, once you get to 8" of snow you start running the risk of high centering if it's heavy snow or if it's been plowed and packed. that amount will be lower for a legacy.

last one i did like this it, same valves as yours, was so hard to differentiate bent valves from non-bent valves i went ahead and replaced all the valves. i had them in a pile and couldn't tell the difference spinning them in a drill. some i could, but i couldn't pick out all of them. no way you'd be able to tell just by looking at some of them. the obvious ones will be easy of course. if you replace valves - i cut a notch out of a spark plug socket and put all-thread through it with a nut inside the socket. this was my "valve spring compressor tool" and i just did all the valves by hand. get a valve grinding kit and chuck the suction cups in a drill and you're golden. don't bother trying any valve spring compressor tools from the store - they're a debacle and only work on some of the valves - the intakes are nearly impossible with no clearance due to those spark plug tubes and more. i was fumbling forever until i made my own hand tool. i would opt for replacing heads unless there's a compelling reason.

yes reboot it sooner rather than later or the dirt will cause the seal in the power steering rack to start leaking. i've done gobs of them. i don't even undo the outer tie rod end - we have so much rust here it's just simpler not to get into those parts that are often problematic unless necessary. if i do plan on needing to remove the tie rod it's a good idea to plan for rust, hard to remove, and possibly just having a new outer tie rod on hand just in case. when i don't remveo the outer tie rod - i just loosen the lock nut - then unscrew the inner tie rod end from the outer. it'll push the wheel as it unscrews and eventually the outer tie rod is disconnected from the inner but hanging from the knuckle. reinstall. like they said - be very accurate with measuring to retain alignment. if it's not a Subaru tie rod, counting threads may not work for that. then again - if you read those "home alignment" options for camber it's actually not hard to adjust it yourself anyway. just set up some fishing line from rear to front based off of the rear and front track measurements and measure tire distance from there. make sure front and rear and equidistant for zero camber. really simple, i just did it the first time this year via some of the online threads about it. a little set up time the first go around but it's otherwise simple. and i did two 95-99 legacys - so the numbers are easily had, i found them online.

two people can easily move it all day long. those $7 harbor freight furniture dollys are worth way more than $7 for moving around horizontally. then just pick up and drop in. have towels or cloves if it's greasy. lifting an engine alone depends on you and the vehicle. remove as much weight as you easily can. it's much easier into a wagon that you can heave it onto the bumper and slide in verses the up-and-over of a true trunk like on a sedan. have a piece of material you can lay on bumper - just heave the engine on there and then slide it into the back - easy. on a sedan it's much more difficult - i wouldn't do it alone unless you're very convinced you can - once the weight gets above your waist it's much more difficult to maneuver it that last bit up and over the back of the trunk into the trunk.

there's a bunch for $250 - $350 here on car-parts.com. but that era is all rusty so the cars we're putting them in aren't worth nearly as much as out your way. i'm too the point where i have zero interest in this era cars due to rust, just not on the radar screen, not worth my time. we need to trade EJ22's for rust free vehicles.