idosubaru

does the sprocket have to come off? leave it there? i've cleaned up crank noses and reinstalled a new crank pulley countless times. the crank pulley does *not* "need" a wooddruff key to stay in place. 3 foot pipe over the socket wrench and it's not going anywhere. most people simply don't install them tight enough or the engine isn't properly held in place so you're actually getting full torque onto the bolt. i've installed a bunch without a key because they're old, not worth a debacle of a repair and given the vehicle/person who owned it, it didn't matter...or some other reason. works %100 of the tim with enough torque. that being said - you should be able to grind/drill out the key as well. and actually once you get past the initial few millimeters of damage the sprocket may/should slide off and give you enough material to install a new key maybe? air grinder or dremel tool to cut the sprockets off and then deal with the keyway?

150,000 miles, no strut work done that i know of. i just got it last summer so i don't know much history of the vehicle except i installed a new transmission in it. ah ha - trans mounts, i think you're probably on to something. the mount seemed fine but i recall something happening...like one of the bolt holes was stripped and i meant to get to it later, i wonder if i have a missing bolt in one of the trans mounts? i'll check that first. i don't think it ever does it in neutral because it only does it when it's under load.

new OEM Subaru remotes. cars101.com will tell you which remotes are which. the ones i have are the tear drop style with orange and blue buttons.

our daily driver 03 OBSedan H6 has a noise i cant find on the front passenger side. happens every time and only at 50 mph and above and only when you let off accelerator. its a metallic rap, rap rap sound that follows our out of balance/alignment tires. almost certainly not the axle for various reasons. cant get anything to move or make the noise grabbing and shaking by hand. it sounds like something is hitting the dash. bought it with trans blown and already removed and he had loosened some odd bolts, control arms, etc. ill check all those a third time.

did you give Subaru a try? thepartsbin.com?

i have a few new ones Will - which variety do you need? i'd look it up but don't have real internet now.

were they both manual trans or....?

yes. not sure how far back it goes but you could look at subaru's opposed forces website to verify part numbers and compatibility.

My money is on the wheel bearings. Driveshafts can tick though too. Mechanics stethoscope on the strut springs can sometimes verify the ticking while turning the wheel by hand. Infrared temp gun after a nice stint on the highway can also verify a bad bearing. Compare 5-20 different spots on the drivers and passengers side and one side may start to show 10 - 50 degrees hotter than the other. Driveshafts - Yank it by hand and look for play. Visually inspect each joint - sometimes you can see wear/fresh metal from play. Ocassionally some are simply seized and have no articulation - so they feel fine on the car and don't reveal their failure until you actually drop the shaft and notice the seized joint. you can unbolt the 4 12mm bolts at the front of the diff and drop the rear half down rather easily and inspect those two ujoints.

i can see a scenario that isn't a bad fit for repair - if it honestly hasn't been overheated and you can do the work yourself - you got a good chance at another cheap 100,000 miles, that's definitely worth it for some folks. check out General Disorders thread on resurfacing your own heads - it's really easy and only takes a matter of minutes with readily available stuff. $70 headgaskets, $20 intake gaskets, $10 sand paper, $15 coolant. $115 to repair the head gaskets. any other maintenance you do - timing belts, seals, etc - should be done to a new motor as well - like an EJ22 swap - which is a great solution too. $115 and a day of work...that's a good fit for some folks. tip if you consider doing this - you can remove only 3 nuts and jack the engine up a few inches to do this job without pulling the engine. i just finished one up yesterday like that, easy. if you want a more sure future - then other options abound but at that kind of mileage we would be remiss to think the engine is the only liability on the vehicle. used is definitely something i generally avoid on EJ25's, unless the history of the motor is certain.

dave - i'll try some seafoam. i've cleared them and had them not come back (the last one i did on a friends honda has not come back yet). have you sea-foamed any there were known to be recurring and return every time the code was cleared? the rear sensor has nothing to do with anything except that emissions monitoring for the efficiency. it can not affect driving or gas mileage, it's not used. you can completely unplug it if you want and it doesn't change anything - just gives you a check engine light. not only that - but even when the code is showing the vehicle would still pass an actual emissions test by the numbers. it's benign in every way - the tolerances in the code are impractical. it's sad to hear all the stories locally and see all the threads in subaru (and other - this is affecting other manufacturers too, not just subaru) forums on this issue with folks spending hundreds and thousands on converters, sensors, OEM converters...and for a completely benign code???!!!! so - it's for "emissions" - maybe they should calculate all the waste, byproducts, resources burned to build, fabricate and support all the unnecessary parts and repairs caused by this dumb !*(&!#*$&(*$ code. that sounds really "green" doesn't it? ????

great - you're golden. what you need: 1. matching y-pipe for 96+ EJ22's (prior years have dual port exhaust that will bolt right up to the EJ18). the y-pipe is the exhaust manifold, it's all one part and easily swaps out with the other one, just remove and install - it'll make sense when you see it - really simple. 2. get one with EGR done - plug and play! if you install a new kit with pulleys and tensioner you'll be golden. for EJ22's: 90-96 are non-interference (though i have heard of interferring 96's, it's rare) 97 and 98 are interference.

this code is a debacle John - have you seen the $5 spacer fix? it works nearly every time. if it was an aftermarket converter that could be the issue...but nonetheless the spacer trick will fix it. i have a few spacers (this issue is common across many vehicles, not just subaru's) and can send you one. shoot me an email if you do and i'll drop it in the mail.

they are so easy to replace that used is a great option here - don't worry about it. it's not uncommon for them to fail but it's not so common that i would be that worried about it either. you could also post here, if i had a used transmission i'd only want $25 shipped for it. i junked one last year....actually i may have saved the sensor but i'd have no clue where it is...

those seals are problematic, ask Subaru to replace or just do them yourself now if they won't, kits are available like he said for the whole job.

The only thing I would certainly replace on a vehicle this new at a timing belt interval is the timing belt tensioner. In my experience that's the one part least likely to make it to the next timing belt change. there's nothing definitive about it - you just have to make a decision, it's statistics based in a sense. i think the things most likely to cause you issues before the next timing belt change would be in this order: 1. timing belt tensioner (hence that's the one thing i would replace) 2. leaking oil seals (not a bad recommendation from the previous poster) 3. timing pulleys 4. water pump They aren't installing any better head gaskets than was originally on the vehicle as is the case with the older EJ25's with have the updated MLS style available. So to that end I wouldn't be replacing your gaskets that are fine with the same gaskets, that's not good value to me. Older EJ25's have an updated gaskets, newer Phase II's do not. If they install the turbo style gasket for you, that's what I would use, then maybe....but: what he said - if they're not leaking i wouldn't replace them. while a significant number of them do have issues, enough don't have it that i wouldn't throw money at it for no reason. if your particular shop is going to actually give you a great deal, like not charge for the timing belt install if they do the headgsaket job...then maybe it's a good fit for you? i still wouldn't do it but what's a good fit for me and you will differ. on a car as new as yours I wouldn't replace anything unless it's leaking. cam seals and crank seal should be inspected - which requires removing the sprockets but they are otherwise easily accessible. if wet - replace them. i typically always replace them on older vehicles but 05's aren't as a rule the rubber on the seals isn't starting to age and leak. i would be very particularly about the pulleys. personally I replace them all and the timing belt tensioner with every timing belt job on a newer Subaru. if they aren't all replaced i would be doing the next timing belt a bit earlier - like 175,000 instead of 200,000. that's not a bad idea in reality anyway. water pumps rarely fail on these motors but it's never a bad idea to replace them either, they aren't all that expensive. if the seals are all dried they can probably make 200,000 miles and in the event they start to leak a little, they are unlikely to cause any reliability, break down, or other issues - just annoying leaks/burning smells. then you just do your timing belt early in that case - at 150,000 miles but then you're good to 250,00 or whatever if done right. so that's why i feel okay skipping those sometimes - though i do them often enough as well. just depends on the vehicle/owner.

you're asking a question i just answered in my last reply? EJ22 swap is 10x easier than the swap you were originally asking about - no wiring work at all. can you do an engine swap? swapping in an EJ22 is exactly the same as just simply replacing your Ej18 with another EJ18 - you just pull the old out and install the new engine. the EJ18 intake bolts on top of the EJ22. there are only two things to know: 1. get an EJ22 with EGR to simplify things since the EJ18 has EGR valve. 2. 90-95 EJ22's are dual port exhaust heads and will bolt right up to the EJ18 headers. But they are lower horsepower than later model EJ22's (95 manual trans EJ22's won't have EGR though). 96-98 EJ22's are single port exhausts but a few more horsepower - all you need to do is also grab the exhaust y-pipe. It bolts right up the car and has to be removed from the engine to do the swap anyway so it's hardly any extra work. You could also bolt the EJ18 heads onto an EJ22 block and thereby retain the dual port exhaust. I'm not sure if the EJ22 heads flow better or have larger valves/better cam profiles though, i'd probably want the EJ22 heads. personally i'd get a 97 or 98 EJ22 with EGR (most of them have it) and the exhaust manifold (ypipe) to go with it. It all bolts up and plugs and plays. Bolt your EJ18 timing belt tensioner bracket and tensioner onto whatever engine you get if it has the newer style (one piece) tensioners. they are less reliable and show up around 97 models. the older style on your Ej18 is more reliable and you can simply swap brackets and tensioners between old and new style. Unless of course the new engine already has the old style tensioner on it, then just leave it, they are the same parts. you can wikipedia things to see horsepower numbers - later 97 EJ22's have the higher output...but are also interference so you should be installing a complete timing belt kit (belt, pulleys, etc). the problem with junkyard EJ25's is you have no idea how much they've been overheated. could be a great score....or there's a high probability too of lower end bearing failure.

positive the axle nut was torque down tight? wheel is all good? axle pin was reinstalled on the trans side? most likely the axles, i would be surprised (i'm internally questioning the person that told you this in regards to subarus) if it's some differential equation linking axle condition to mount condition, etc. 1. reboot your original axles. ignore mileage, boots are cheap and if you can replace an axle, replacing the boots is no big deal. do that to the existing axle now before it degrades and your forced to install another possibly subpar axle. - i've rebooted some that had been broken, driven on, and vibrating terribly - they are still working fine, quieted down fine after cleaning and regreating/rebooting. 2. buy a used axle that's origianl Subaru OEM (you can tell by the boots, bands, and color of the axle cups) and reboot it. ignore milage. i'll take a rebooted 100,000 mile subaru axle any day of the week. i get them for only $25-$33 around here, reboot and you got a like-new axle for $50. you can even use the 2001 newer axles that have the tone ring on the axle, just knock the ring off and install it like normal - your tone ring is on the hub and not needed on the axles. also the newer axles have a more robust outer side CV boot with more convolutions. 3. get MWE after many wasted hours and stranded vehicles (when the joints completely exploded, which i've seen), i no longer waste time on aftermarket axles. though some are saying the EMPI's are good, i have no compelling reason to use them with 3 perfectly repeatable solutions mentioned above.

it is *always* the sensor...unless it's a 99 Subaru. it's a very common issue only seen on 99's (and some 00's - bleed overs no doubt). since it's so common simply google "99 Subaru speedometer" and see all sorts of stuff about it all over the internet. given that this guy has a 99 then it's *most* likely to be in the cluster - not the speed sensor. but the speed sensor could be the culprit too - just statistics at this point, someone will need to get their hands dirty from here.

have to run 15" wheels (and even then it will depend which calipers you use and which 15" wheels you use - some steel 15" wheels won't clear all dual pot pistons). you can upgrade the back calipers like Miles said without those same concerns, the rears have more clearance than the fronts.

Yes you'll need the wiring harness and ECU typically speaking (anything is possible). There are two easier options (with a dark side of course, few things are free): 1. Swap in an EJ22, that would be a direct bolt in swap with no wiring/ECU - the EJ18 intake manifold would bolt right on top of any Phase I EJ22 block. the later 97 and 98 models had a few more horsepower. Shave the heads, get some delta cams and the EJ22 isn't all that far from an EJ25 power wise and they're - cheaper, more reliable, the valves are actually adjustable (LOL), easier to work on (plugs, valve covers). Ej25's are hard to find in good shape and expensive (for a lesser motor IMO, not a good value for me but to each his own). 2. Bolt your EJ18 heads (cheap route) onto an EJ25 block or get better EJ22 heads (that's what I would do), and bolt the EJ18 intake manifold onto the EJ22 heads which are bolted onto the EJ25 block, again avoiding the wiring/ECU work. You *could* attempt to swap the EJ18 intake stuff onto the EJ25 intake manifold - remove the entire wiring harness, etc and bolt it all onto the EJ25. I've laid them side by side but haven't tried it yet. The throttle bodies are quite different in configuration - the EJ18's look sloppy, i don't like those manifolds they just look "busy". But if you're going through all that effort maybe it's beneficial to have the better controller too, so the wiring might be nice. I've swapped a few EJ22, EJ25 ECu's and ran an EJ18 on EJ22 and EJ25 ECU's - i've never noticed any difference. I'm currently running an EJ18 (well actually it was wrecked today while some friends were driving it) with EJ25 wiring/ECU and it runs perfectly fine, i would expect the other way around to not be that noticeable, if at all, if you were contemplating that.

great deal if: 1. headgaskets are replaced with *good* headgaskets like just mentioned, the turbo variety. 2. the timing tensioner and pulleys are all replaced. you don't want 10+ year old timing components in place on a "new" car you want another 100,000 miles out of. go with ebay timing kits on the timing pulleys, they're much more reasonably priced.

congrats on the all the work and learning, i like your effort and energy! you simply need a 99-01 Phase II EJ22, very easy swap. and for these (unlike earlier swaps) you simple bolt the EJ25 intake manifold on top of the EJ22 engine lock block, it's a very easy swap. you also need a single port EJ22 exhaust manifold but again that just bolts up. sometimes you have to swap cam and crank sprockets as they sometimes have different timing triggers on them - but that's easy. it's rare and i haven't determined when/why that has to be done but i don't think it's even an EJ22/EJ25 thing, sometimes i think it's happened even between EJ25's before. again - easy to swap those parts, takes 5 minutes. flywheel - i would think you just bolt the EJ25 flywheel to your EJ22 and use all EJ25 clutch parts. been awhile so i'm sort of guessing.

belt likely broke due to contamination or the pulley bearings. replace all the bearings and tensioner, if they're not new or like new then they'll generate more heat and possibly fail too - degrading the belt material. when you replace the belt it would be wise to replace all the idler pulleys as well. also - any coolant or oil in the belt will cause it to fail. i installed a complete timing belt kit - belt, all new pulleys, on my buddies EA82. the crank seal leaked a month later and i took it apart to replace the crank seal. wiped the oil off the belt and reinstalled it. it only lasted a couple months and broke - oils and fluids cause the belt material to separate. that being said - older EA82 timing belt set ups are not nearly as robust as newer timing belts. so take extra precaution replacing them on time, replacing all the pulleys, and not getting any fluids on them at all.

99 EJ22's are single port exhaust, not dual port. are you talking about your 99 engine or do you have a 95 you haven't mentioned yet (which are dual port exhaust) i think i can still answer your question: the *only* intake manifold that fits on a DOHC EJ25 is the DOHC EJ25 intake manifold. there are no EJ22 intake manifolds that will bolt up to the EJ25 DOHC heads. does that help? 99 Phase II EJ22's are single port exhausts so you'll need the exhaust manifolds. the intakes are not compatible with earlier Phase I EJ25's or EJ22's.