idosubaru

forums like this are a good way to locate, buy, and arrange pick up of far off distance subaru's. i consider myself good at working with people to an extent, i have to have good feedback from the person before buying. if they're members of the forum, contribute, know what the'yre talking about, etc you kind of know something. if someone isn't calling back, isn't clear about things, doesn't follow through with questions or pictures, doesn't seem to care....move on. you could even start a thread and see what happens - might get lucky and have someone who knows their stuff on here help you out. i've flown 800 miles and driven a car home. and buddy of mine who flies for free, flew to texas to pick up a subaru for me and drove it to WV - now that's a friend! 1,500 miles, i love crazy friends! best to know a bit about cars and be fairly good at communicating and working with people though. which can be a tough read. not for everyone but a good way to expand your options with a bit of extra effort.

the computer is installed with those security torx bits, they can be difficult, make sure the bit is seated nice and firmly in place as they can shear off your tools..or if you've got $nap-on stuff is probably doesn't matter.

i get really happy when i have an electrical question and see cougar replying :banana: i feel like the end is near! removing the bolt on main alternator (the hot) wire did not decrease the draw at all, only the plastic two wire connector which decreased it by 100 milliamps. i'll swap the alt and see where we're at. thanks hmm, so i went from 195 down to 95....i found a 100 milliamp draw but still have another??

yes, same timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner. tear it up john!

bellhousing bolt pattern will be different - but it will still work. if it's a Forester, SUS, GT, LSi, or OBW - the final drive gear will be 4.44 and not match your legacy. you'll have to swap rear differentials as well. things like brightons, sedans should be 4.11. your 91 legacy should be a 4.11 or 3.9, someone will fill us in. the 99 will have an external filter where yours does not. doesn't matter, just letting you know that difference which you'll see. there were electronics/speed sensor changes at some point and 99's are generally known to be more upwards compatible (in other words with 2000 and 2001), but i don't know if that matters or not, hopefully someone else will chime in about that.

i've never replaced the sensors in the bumper in 97 and 02 era subarus. in a 1997 impreza i only replaced the air bags and it worked. in a 2002 OBW VDC H6 i replaced the seat belt pre-tensioners and air bags and computer. i don't know if i had to replace the computer, i just did because it came with the set i bought. never replaced the sensors in the bumper. there's no reset - once everything is properly installed, it resets.

pulled the two wire electrical connector on the alt and the drain went from 200 to 100 milliamps. is it the alternator itself or could something in that circuit be bad? do i measure resistance next of those two wires...or.....just swap alt's i guess that's easy enough.

sweet, good and easy check. no i haven't checked that, seems odd for alt to be tied to one particular fusible link and the fuse box. electrical is not my thing

i look specifically for no rust cars because i'm tired of corrosion problems, the time saved is worth it to me. i bought an 89 XT6 last year from California, and an XT6 the year before from Texas strictly because of rust. it cost $760 to ship the last XT6. total cost with shipping was about $2,000 with some parts, was running, no issues, new clutch. find the car you want out west/south and have it shipped. $2,000 sounds high for my area, i wouldn't expect to sell one for that in a by the way you describe it, but like he said above - you just never know, it's worth whatever someone will pay for it and that varies a lot for older cars at $2,000 or less. all it takes is someone that needs to get to work and a cheap car. i'd move on or wait a month until he comes down in price....chances are higher that he won't sell it than he will sell it. i sell and list a few subarus a year (have a few now for sale). i don't see him selling it soon.

Been tracking this drain on my XT6 forever and not sure how i missed this: 95 milliamp drain with *all* - every fuse pulled in the fuse panel 5 milliamp drain if I pull the fusible link for the fuse box 195 milliamp total draw with all fuses/fusible links in place What's next? Are there any non-fused circuits associated with the same fusible link that the fuse box is on (i thought the answer is no but electrical is not my thing)? So the fusible link box or fuse panel is bad? Anyway to test/find out? Are they hard to swap out - one easier?

is the overheating now the same symptoms as before the headgaskets were replaced (sometimes it's hard to remember, i know)? radiator might be to blame. if it's predictable - like driving when it's really hot out it overheats and it never does when it's cold or overheats when climbing steep grades, acclerating fast/heavy loads - then those are signs of clogged radiator - it doesn't have enough capacity to dump the necessary heat. headgaskets can fail again if there was a glitch in the installation. what kind of headgaskets were used? were the heads checked or resurfaced?

pull it and clean the mating surface of the engine and knock sensor - maybe a piece of debris is between the two. make sure the knock sensor connector didn't get pulled apart on the vehicle/body side harness. sometimes they are about 10x harder to separate than they seem like they should be. if you had to tug on it when removing then you could have pulled the pin out of the harness connector (i've seen it happen before). seems unlikely, but so does your current situation - but maybe it's loose, partially pulled out?

that's a very good deal. should be an easy fix. you can slap another belt on and see if it got lucky, might not need anything? usually not the case, but i did it to a friends Nissa Xterra a couple weeks ago and he got lucky - no valve damage. worth a shot to hang a belt and see. don't even bolt it all back together or install the crank pulley or covers - just hang the belt and see if it runs.

these engines are generally considered scrap once they have rod knock. there's usually other more cost effective repair options.

piston and cylinder wall damage isn't likely on most (if not all) subarus...but i'm sure anything is possible when things start bending/breaking. Tools: 22mm socket for the crank pulley bolt and everything is metric. 14mm 12 point socket for the head bolts (14mm 6 point won't work). That's about it for special tools - it's really not hard at all - just a bunch of bolts and hoses to remove. a 10mm ratcheting wrench is the key to doing this job in the vehicle, makes it a breeze. go ahead and adjust the valves while everything is apart, it's really easy on this engine anyway, takes just a couple minutes. you'll need the 0.008" and 0.010" feelrs for that i believe (double check first though). remove intake manifold (lots of wires, hoses, connections, etc here), timing components, valve covers, heads, reinstall in reverse order. lots to keep track of and a bit overwhelming the first time but not much to it really, just keep track of everything. some folks use cardboard and bunch the bolts in it to label them, zip ties, color coded tape, labels, etc. i dont' use anything. i just talked to a friend today with a Forester (same engine as yours) whose timing belt broke. he was quoted thousands of dollars to fix/replace engine. he's lucky he knows me so i told him if he gets it to my house i'll fix it. his valves are bent but engine is probably fine...we'll see when i get it.

you could probably get $3,500-$5,000 or so roughly for that car, so it does have some value, but not what it would if running new. make *sure* it's rod knock. failing timing tensioners or cracked flexplate can be misdiagnosed as well as rod knock. rare and unlikely - but so is rod knock at your mileage. you can get a used engine for $1,500 and have it installed for $1,000 (at the most with new timing belts, etc). you can even get engines cheaper, but should not have any problem getting one at that price. so $2,500 is top dollar for engine replacement in my opinion. you can even try to find an engine that's got bad heads/bent valves/cracked cam gears etc and just use the block, those are cheaper and you just use your heads. http://www.car-parts.com for used engines. shipping is about $700 from your way - so $1,400 round trip shipping, i'll fix it for $2,000 and you're only out $3,400! fix it right and you've got a lot more reliable miles coming to you. but yeah you got some bad luck at only 71,000 miles. doubt Subaru will do anything about that due to age/mileage.

parts: online prices are about %20 cheaper than your local dealer. subaruparts4you, subarugenuineparts, liberty subaru - you can google all those. my dealer matches those prices, so go in with a list and ask them if they'll match that for you as well. thepartsbin.com and rockauto are excellent aftermarket Subaru parts sources for some things. good prices and if you're on the mailing list or google for a coupon you can usually get an additional %5 off or more and free shipping is easily had as well. *rockauto listings are terrible - if you drill down, they still list the wrong parts for the vehicle, engine, trans you selected - it's really stupid how they do it, but just pay attention and make sure you're getting the right part. they'll show parts for the same model/year even if it's not for the engine you selected. guess that's why they're cheap! i just bought CV boots from them for like $5.40 each for the entire kit - boots, grease, clamps, etc. for gaskets/seals: go Subaru only on the headgaskets and water pump gasket (aftermarkets are weak). everything else get whatever you want. timing kits: get them off ebay valves: Subaru will have them not sure about sourcing them aftermarket. plugs and wires are best kept OEM on this motor as well if you end up replacing those.

good deal, this should be simple. lots of good news for you. replace the bent valves and go to town, this should be a relatively easy fix. this engine is easy to pull the heads off in the car too, so if you don't mind working in the engine bay for a couple hours don't even bother pulling the engine. i actually have one exactly like it to do as well and i'm not going to pull the engine. use Subaru only on the headgaskets, they are prone to headgasket failure and a few of us have seen aftermarkets fail on this engine only. this engine also requires a Subaru Coolant Conditioner (it's only like $1.57 or something silly from Subaru). be sure to add that. install a new timing belt kit - ebay has kits for $160 or $180 that include all new belt, tensioner, and pulleys. do that and you're good for another 105,000 reliable miles. Not sure if i should mention but a board member, *very* prominent, offers great deals on subaru parts - he quoted a great price of like $211 for all Subaru timing components last week...not sure if it was the same motor or not though. maybe he'll post here. no - you can not just swap it with any EJ25. yours will need to be 2000-2004 EJ25. later models work but i'm not solid in the differences, years, etc. 1999 RS and Forester will work too. same years EJ22's will work as well (1999-2001 or 2002...whenever they quit making them) - plug and play, though you may have to swap cam gears (simple). but, it's unlikely you even need an engine so why bother!

what they said, you're hanging on the crossmember. get the trans up in the air a bit and it'll slide together. when you pull it out the trans is automatically "lifted" up by default because the engine studs are holding it as you pull. not so when reinstalling.

XT6 guys have done it, probably some info at subaruxt.com and maybe here? might try a search.

they're pretty easy, not much to it. if you need a write up for these, you shouldn't be doing the job, it's that easy. it's about to get much simpler for you, as soon as you get the light in the mail you just look at it - it's going to tell you where all the attach points are. i believe it's all 10 mm bolts and possibly one plastic clip at the grille. i'll recount from a poor memory (i work on all subaru's so keeping them straight i get confused sometimes): remove the two top 10mm bolts holding it to the top radiator support. disconnect electrical sockets and i believe there's an annoying clip at the grill and a bolt behind the grille too. be very careful with the grille clips if it has to come out. they may break...but you can always get another one. they aren't intuitive. there's no bolt "underneath" it so to speak, it's all hung from the top/sides. memory tells me on this model the side light only has a bar that slides into the fender, not a bolt. but the new ones are going to make that abundantly clear by looking at them. stuff like this is real simple when you got one in hand to look at. good luck, here's to nice new, shiney bright lenses! the lights i've recently bought new all came with new bulbs in them too.

not much to it - you're doing it right by tackling the timing belt at the same time. sounds like you're well on your way to doing it right. adjust the valves. it's rare but they occasionally burn exhaust valves if not adjusted. you're at the right age/mileage to nip that. might want to be prepared to do the rear separator plate. they are often leaking, prone to cracking if they're plastic (which i bet yours will turn out to be). Subaru sells metal plates and screws (of course the screws are different for the metal plate - but you could just go to lowes and get some too). since the engine has to come out to replace it and they frequently have issues most of us replace them any time the engine comes out. valve cover and spark plug tube gaskets and reseal the oil pump while you're at it. require one oring and tigthen the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump when it's removed. 1. best bet is to get Subaru headgaskets. folks on here that do a lot of these have seen aftermarket headgasket failures. there is countless information about this all over the internet, the engine you're working on is a headgasket eating phenomenon. unlike some other engines and even other Subaru engines, i would highly suggest doing it with the recommendations of those here that have done a lot of work on these motors. 2.. Subaru engines do not get headbolts replaced, that incorrect philosophy is borrowed from elsewhere. they might as well tell you to fill it up with diesel fuel while you're at it since some cars use that too :lol: Subaru always reuses headbolts - %100 of the time. a kit that includes headbolts suggests they're into marketing more than quality and proper repair/parts - they want to sell you something you don't need. i'll pass. whether head bolts are to be replaced or not comes down to whether or not torque to yield (TTY) headbolts are used. you can google or wikipedia that for further information.

that's the solution to all the riddles - you need to find out that code. you need to do the secret handshake to get it to flash the code for you. that's probably going to help a good bit to know that rather than just guessing.

bratclay - no flashing ATF light? make sure the trans plug is fully seated and none of the pins are bent. trans pan isn't dented or damaged? disconnect the trans connector entirely and tell us how it drives. it should default to 3rd gear (but the clutch pack will be locked). it'll at least also render your vehicle drivable while you work the kinks out. to compensate for the default to full-lock on the transfer clutches you can either just directly power the Duty C yourself so as to allow FWD, requires just splicing into one wire, or remove the rear half of the driveshaft. i've done this before to keep a borked trans drivable. it's always in 3rd gear so it's a little gutless at start up but otherwise is perfectly drivable, even on the freeway. awesome, great, exactly what i wanted to know for my swapped leg.

i was asking because i'm curious if whatever causes the issue could cause downgraded performance in other swaps, like mine, even though it works? less gas mileage, different...? but with an EJ18 i guess it doesn't really matter AH, right!