idosubaru

awesome, i figured that's what you wanted, just making sure. better said than assumed. we'll email more specifics later. so you're going to try to get it towed to WV then? in the coming days, weeks, or months? does it move on it's own power at least or is it completely dead? engine is supposed to be otherwise in decent shape? how's the rust?

i've dropped a 4.44 out of an EJ25 and installed a 4.11 (also AWD to FWD! ) without swapping the TCU and saw no difference after about 60,000 miles of driving.

ebay. can't click on links at the moment to see what's coming up but i've seen EA82 kits for $60-$80 for timing belt and pulleys. i wouldn't concern myself with the warranty - they can't make them too long as they can't control how poorly a belt might be installed, treated, stored, or get contaminated with coolant/oil or otherwise not treated well, etc. 12,000 is a fairly standardized number in some ways, it's "one year" so to speak.

mine had something in there notably rolling around jamming things shut - like a kid dropped something down the vents or something. noise of said item moving was directly correlated to vents not working/working. almost positive there's something physically in there that shouldn't be. but - i have an extra control unit i can try, sounds easy enough to make sure.

you want Subaru or Fel-Pro Permatorque headgaskets? I have always used the Fel Pro PT's for EA82 and EA82T's and quite a few others here have as well. timing belt kit (only $80 at most i think on ebay) and water pump (i would)? complete reseal - cam, crank, oil pump, valve covers, etc? complete valve job? delta cams?

really tom? that's super!! i thought i was going to be contorting with my feet on the ceiling under the dash somewhere in the foot well. that seems to easy - is there then a bolt on door or cover to the passages/air ways? i love good news like that, thanks!

MC or fluid loss somewhere. keep pounding that pedal to exacerbate any possible fluid leak. it'll be caused by rust, so additional pressure is going to blow it out sooner or later or cause enough fluid loss to eventually be noticeable in the reservoir or on the ground/piston area. if you lived in the rust belt the rust/leak issue becomes more probable than less likely non-rust areas. what does it do if you pump the pedal really fast like 3 or 4 times in a row - does it build any pressure at all - or all pumps identical? good luck cookie, hope you nail it, off for the night.

post in the parts wanted forum here. http://www.car-parts.com

do you know what %70 power means? what exactly did he do - compression or leak down test? you seem confident he's accurate with what's wrong? was this like he looked at it, spit on the ground and told you something while polishing off his bud light and chucking the can in the weeds, or did he actually toss some gauges on it like it sounds like he did? any check engine light? i wouldn't be surprised if you got a lot more use out of it, but who knows. these jokers on here are good, if you can answer questions about what he tested exactly and that exhaust pipe test mentioned above they can give you some engine specific feedback.

possible. hard to say...kind of a roll of the dice. i thought the same thing when i replaced a master cylinder about a year ago.....replaced it again....still pedal to the floor. ended up being the rear lines rusted. i've never seen it, but i've heard of brake hoses failing in such a way that they "expand" like a big bubble so the fluid doesn't move. doesn't sound likely, but i have seen them do the opposite and collapse and act like a valve, locking the brakes. two-ish questions: why did you install a master cylinder last year and did it 100% resolve the issue? how many miles since installing the new master cylinder?

i'd clean both battery terminal connectors and make sure they are clean and not loose/degraded/corroded. then check the plug at the alternator. then check the output of the alt with every electrical draw you can think of turned on - radio, lights, door open, fogs, heat, flashers, etc. check output at alternator and at + terminal of battery - what do you get for each of those? some people even just run a heavy gauge cable straight from the alt output to the positive terminal...but double check that, been awhile since i've done an EA but pretty sure they're the same, i do have one in my driveway. jumper cable another car to it and see if the batteries get brighter. sounds like alternator but 14.2 seems like a good reading.

sure sounds like MC lost it's marbles. although - a very small leak can reduce to unusable pressure yet take awhile to be spotted. a blown piston seal in the caliper can bleed fluid into the dust boots and prevent fluid from being seen or loosing much from the reservoir. or the lines above the crossmember can have the very beginnings of a pin hole leak due to rust, but take awhile to collect and hit the ground, and they are prone to rust there.

1999 Legacy SUS something has been rattling and intermittently goofing with the vent positions. air woudln't come out defrost sometimes, etc. now it's permanently lodged as i no longer hear the rattling - but air no longer comes out of the dash vents that blow in your face. air only comes out of the defrost and foot areas. so the door must be stuck by that thing that used to slide around down there. is there any convenient way to access this vent door area, i've never messed with that system before?

okay, let's diagnose this........would you please give us more information - which blinker causes it LMAO charging system, freaky alternator, battery, or connections? a slightly wonky output is screwing with that solenoid for some reason? alternate options: quit using your blinker. keep it: "hey baby, check out what my car can do!":grin:

kevin, i'll do it if you can get it here and i've got a long time frame. too far for me to tow right now....and the last one of yours i towed scared the NUTS out of me . j/k.

nice hit kevin. matt - (subeman90 on the xt forums and he's on here too) has towed cars before and might know someone who can. if you can disconnect the rear driveshaft it can be towed, they are FT4WD and has to be flat bedded.

if you can do the job yourself i'd definitely do it. if the belt breaks you'll be tempted to get rid of it - when a new belt (only $60 for a complete kit of pulleys and belt on ebay) may get you another 60,000 miles. i just did a 2.5 liter DOHC timing belt last weekend...it only took like 2 hours to just do the belt, they're easy. totally worth it. if you have to pay someone to do it then only you can gauge what that's worth or costs. if it's running great, lots of highway miles - then it might be worth it - got a good chance of another couple years. if it's lots of city miles, beat, running poorly....then maybe not.

what kind of headgasket did you do? all of them except Fel Pro's require retorque procedure - did you do that? i would pull the valve cover since it's easy and see if one of the rocker arms fell off or is cocked/mis-aligned - basically what rob said - make sure the valves are actually opening and closing, that would just be an easy mistake to make. did you test compression before the job or it ran fine (suggesting something probably went wrong with the repair rather than something else wrong with the car)?

fairtax - another option may be to rering that one cylinder. pull the wrist pin, push the piston out, hone, rering, reinstall the piston. you'll only be out cost of rings for one cylinder and save a bunch of time.

every 97 I've seen is the new style tensioner, unless i'm forgetting one. but I think it's GD that says most 97's he sees are old style - don't know why, regional difference or something - but either way 97 is a mixed bag. personally i don't do 97's until i actually see the tensioner and verify which one it is myself. you can remove the drivers side timing belt cover and have a look - only 3 10mm bolts and 15 minutes and you can remove it to have a peak. leave it off if you're going to do the belt anyway, doesn't hurt anything. i have a spare old style tensioner in case i ever end up with an EJ as a daily driver that has the new style. cheaper and more reliable. although - you don't really "replace" the tensioner in the old styles, kits don't come with the tensioner mechanism, just the pulley. but - they never fail so not that big of a deal either.

struts bushings tie rods (what caboob just said) was it ever wrecked or abused - measurements will show components out of symmetry. why won't a shop "touch it".....is it beat, rusted, there has to be a reason, they don't just make that up, fess up and tell us what you did to this thing?:lol:

gotcha, thanks. is that because nearly all are 3AT's? some EA's...or maybe only the XT.....have the 4EAT where the stubs pop out? touring wagon? not that i could imagine doing that for a transmission pull anyway, unless your roll pin gets wedged into the hole.

technically speaking you can pull the axle stubs out if it's an automatic, they just pop out, but not on a manual trans, they don't come out. but i wouldn't do it that way. what Rob said is by far the way to go. they're a bit easier to remove if you free up the knuckle (remove strut or pop it out of the ball joint) - but it's been a long time since i've done EA hub work so i'll let someone else comment on that. not necessary, but makes it simple to pop the axle off then remove the trans rather than move trans, mess with axle, move trans, mess with axle...etc, particularly if it's your first time doing a subaru trans and depending what/how you're pulling the trans.

it's repairable, just swap in another center diff. transmission doesn't even need to be removed to do it - it's all done from the rear of the trans. get another mechanic, i wouldn't trust this guy to do the work if he doesn't even know how to fix it. "suspicion often creates what it suspects"....don't let him do the work.

shawn has likely guessed wisely but you should clarify - automatic or manual, they are completely different and the answer to your question is different depending on your answer. in one case youre doing the right thing, in the other you're wasting you're time. you would want to take out the rear half of the driveshaft - not the rear driveshafts (meaning axles), to run it in 2 wheel drive. i don't recommend it, but pit's been done before and is free. the viscous coupling needs to be completely hosed and "locked" for this to work though.