idosubaru

technically speaking you can pull the axle stubs out if it's an automatic, they just pop out, but not on a manual trans, they don't come out. but i wouldn't do it that way. what Rob said is by far the way to go. they're a bit easier to remove if you free up the knuckle (remove strut or pop it out of the ball joint) - but it's been a long time since i've done EA hub work so i'll let someone else comment on that. not necessary, but makes it simple to pop the axle off then remove the trans rather than move trans, mess with axle, move trans, mess with axle...etc, particularly if it's your first time doing a subaru trans and depending what/how you're pulling the trans.

it's repairable, just swap in another center diff. transmission doesn't even need to be removed to do it - it's all done from the rear of the trans. get another mechanic, i wouldn't trust this guy to do the work if he doesn't even know how to fix it. "suspicion often creates what it suspects"....don't let him do the work.

shawn has likely guessed wisely but you should clarify - automatic or manual, they are completely different and the answer to your question is different depending on your answer. in one case youre doing the right thing, in the other you're wasting you're time. you would want to take out the rear half of the driveshaft - not the rear driveshafts (meaning axles), to run it in 2 wheel drive. i don't recommend it, but pit's been done before and is free. the viscous coupling needs to be completely hosed and "locked" for this to work though.

it doesn't affect engine performance at all. you can remove the rear sensor altogether and the car runs fine. if you have the catalyst efficiency code (common issue), make sure you have no leaks. if not, then do the $5 spark plug anti fouler mod, very common and removes the nonsense of this glitch. in the future - be sure to post the exact code you're getting, that helps us help you. P0420?

lmao indeed, at least you figured it out.

no kidding, that's the actual speaker? i'm fairly uninformed about audio stuff. mine didn't look like a speaker, looked and felt like an amp, but maybe the mcintosh vehicles are different? or they're all speakers, that wouldn't surprise me either given my audio astuteness.

nice hit, tearing it up! there's a lot of information because you can do the swaps multiple ways...so the answers depend on you more than facts. many swaps aren't the same. the XT6 radiators are Subaru only items, do not waste your time with radiator places or shops that say they can get one - they can't because they were never made, except for subaru. places list them and shop owners assume that means it's fact - so people waste their time and money all the time and buy what they think is the right part...only to find out it's a 4 cylinder XT radiator, not the same thing. anyway - just letting you know in case you ever need to replace the one you got, the XT6 radiators are hard to find, $300+ from Subaru and not available anywhere else.

looks like the 1173 part number is correct and here's a great thread with exactly what you need: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60503 they mention that nut setting the pre-load, the only other way i can think of is to mark the location of the nut (chisel or marker) and then count the number of turns to remove it - like when doing tie rods, but you'll need to keep track of the very first turn(s) since it's going to be hard to loosen. the rock auto link does not direct me to the part. best bet is to just get the part number from rock auto and do a google search on the part number/brand. that's how i verify it and found that usmb link. you are *wise* to check, rockauto's listings are the worst on the internet, period. but they make up for it in price. you'll drill down for a 6 cylinder subaru and it's still listing 4 cylinder parts, that drives me nuts.

wow, that's amazing. how many miles did you put on it until you retorqued it?

i've seen them there before and my 02 OBW mcintosh system has the bass boost (amp, whatever it's called) right there as well, so sounds like you're on it. dont' really have any feedback on installing it though.

+1 figure out how off you are and memorize it, you'll get used to it. they make adapters that allow you to adjust the gearing....speedo cable plugs into box, then another cable goes from box to speedo. they're a couple hundred bucks though. might as well just buy a GPS and put it on your dash.

okay i saw you talking about misfiring and associated that with mis-fire codes...but you're not getting a misfire code, you're getting a P0420 code. what's the condition of the exhaust? how poorly is it missing/driving? these engines are not forgiving with ignition components like plugs and wires unfortunately. i've seen brand new off the shelf wires cause misfires and nearly undrivable soobs.

yes, all DOHC EJ25D's (96-98 EJ25's and 99 Legacy or Outbacks) will plug and play into your Brighton. remove EJ22, install EJ25 and it plugs and plays and runs. there are a few points to keep in mind though. you'll need a dual port exhaust header (that otherwise bolts right in place). your EJ22 is single, the EJ25 is dual port, but the exhaust manifolds are otherwise interchangeable, bolts right in place. your car should have EGR and i think all EJ25's have EGR so that should not be an issue in your case. some EJ22's do not have EGR, which complicates things if you're swapping the other way. i believe you use the EJ22 flexplate...just keep the EJ22 and bits until you're done in case you need anything off of it. i feel like i've swapped power steering or a/c brackets before so everything lines up neatly, but it's real simple as yo'ure doing it.

that was my suspicion. great comments above about working with rusted fasteners - those that have done it a bunch could probably get them out. but they are going to be tough. i've never tried it on these specifically and i may not be a good idea with gas fumes and all present but if you could mitigate that issue you could weld a nut to the rusty nuts. i've had that work tons of times, particularly on such non-structural style nuts as these. clean the rust off, get a nut larger than the one on there and weld it over top of the old nut, taking care not to prevent a socket from getting over the new nut. then use a socket wrench like normal. if you can get a good weld it'll come out. by welding you're also running it through some heat cycles.

i think we are all on the same page as you there, i think this is mostly about the pulleys and tensioners.

true and false. true: a DOHC EJ25 *IS* a legacy motor - so it can plug into some legacy ECU's. false: an EJ25d will not plug and play in a 2010 Legacy. question would have to be more specific to give a direct answer. not quite sure what you're asking but in general 1995-1998 EJ22's and 1996-1998 EJ25D's are completely interchangeable - plug and play. remove one engine, install the other, and it plugs right in. remove EJ22, install EJ25D, and it'll plug right in and run fine, no wiring or ECU swap needed (there are some mechanical concerns, but that's all simple stuff - ECU and wiring is zero concern for 95-98 EJ22's/EJ25d's. you can even include EJ18's into the above equations with one extra part to make it possible.

+1, i'd bump the forester to the bottom of the list unless something compelling happens to change your mind. your priority of space/cargo/people suggests you're likely to utilize the extra room than wish it were smaller. but it's a turbo, so good news either way

if you were in the northeast i'd say check for rust. what they said - any noises at all? wheel bearing (should have noises though, that's really bad if it's bearing related)? strut or bushing?

order the kit from Shawn. my local dealer matches online pricing, ask and they might for you too if you need parts in the future. ebay jokers will not be able to supply an OEM belt. use the one in their kit or get one from subaru. i used to use Subaru belts exclusively on interference engines but have been using the aftermarket belts for a few years now (i flip them and work on other peoples soobs too). Subaru belts aren't that expensive either, sounds like that's the best bet for you. if you're worried that much about a breakdown, put the old belt in your trunk just in case. i have over 60,000 miles (it's past due) on my ebay timing kit/belt in my 96 legacy. it's driven from WV to New Orleans twice, Georgia, Indiana and a ton of shorter trips. I travel a lot, breaking down is not an option. two weeks ago I installed one of the Ebay kits on my 99 SUS and left the next day for a 2,000 mile round trip to Florida. i wasn't worried about it. i would imagine the ebay kits have a %1 or something higher failure rate (i'm making that up), but it comes down to risks and percentages, there's no way to completely remove uncertainty. one guy could have a subaru belt break and another might have the ebay kits go over their limit. but the Subaru's are probably a slightly higher bet.

the abs stuff is really simple, it just needs to see a pulse. i would give an attempt at repairing it as you said by just repairing/replacing the tone ring some how on the vehicle. not much to loose at this point. cutting at an appropriate location sounds great, i'd try it. just bolt it back on, i'd try that first. could even tack weld the joints back together for good measure, on the OD of course so as not to mess up the teeth. the JB weld would be a waste of time, good call avoiding that. stuff is cool and helpful but it's not very robust and this wouldn't be a good fit for it.

engine wise your 99 will be the same as 2000+ EJ25's. coil pack (swap in a used one, new are too expensive). they can also be tested.

exactly the same symptoms before and after replacing the plugs and wires? still have the P0420 cylinder misfire code? what brand wires did you use? cylinder misfires are usually plugs/wires. but can be other things too. i'd replace the coil pack with a known good used one. but there are ways to test yours, i've just never had to test them since i've got others lying around. i had a really bad cylinder misfire last year in a 2000 forester i couldn't track down, car wouldn't even run - wasn't resolved until i replaced the entire intake - so i'm only guessing that it may have been fuel injectors/FPR?

what car is this going into? 91 loyale as your user name? what kind of XT? FWD, PT4WD, FT4WD, what year, etc? were the rear lights in the bumper or above it (trying to narrow down if you can't tell us year/etc). a non-turbo XT manual trans will bolt right into your 91 Loyale with no axle or driveshaft worries. a turbo XT will still work but requires different axles - either Turbo axles or just swap the inner joint to your axles. not a big deal, just an extra step. you may have to rig up different vacuum lines/control (easy) if it's a FT4WD XT transmission which would be newer 88-91 XT's. older XT's have the same push button trans as the 85-87 XT's.

might not want to try this but here's some info on pulling it yourself: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99872

i've never used a scan gauge for air bag codes, i've just made the airbag light flash the code for me. i'd give that procedure a try and see if it gives you a code.