idosubaru

i'm with JCE - radio would be a good thing to check. 56 milliamps is higher than normal from what i've read (20-30 = normal) - but *shouldn't* be enough to drain the battery overnight? have you tried to disconnect the battery or pull a main fuse/fusible link? it'll start right up if there is a drain. if it's the battery the issues will remain when pulling fuses/link/terminal connector.

haven't dropped a rear diff in a newer gen yet (because they rarely fail), but i have installed clutch type locking rear diffs on older gen soobs. 4 12mm bolts disconnected the driveshaft. about 3 bolts usually hold the diff in place (one huge one up top and two on the back) 7 bolts/nuts and the older ones come out. with those done the diff will actually hang down off the car with just the axles still attached. i've swapped diffs but doing nothing more than listed above. with the diff dropped down there was enough room to knock a pin out, pull one axle, then do the same on the other side. just pull the axle off the diff, no need to remove it from the car. yours might differ from that, but it won't be by a whole lot, it's not hard. yours may have axles that slide into the diff though and just pop in and out, i've seen EJ's have both style so not sure what your 07 will have but both are equally simple. it's just annoying working on the car and the diff becomes bulky due to limited working space under there.

i do not have a set. i went and got them this morning but the set i have is for an EJ vehicle, sorry.

they're only weak when they've been overheated. hard part is finding one that has never been overheated.

maybe you can ask the yard if you can return it? sure they might not take returns, but maybe if you tell them the situation ahead of time they will?

what exactly are you asking? don't use the word "internals" any more....tell us exactly what you mean: What parts John? (internals is not a part that shows up in a parts manual.) EJ25 pistons can't be put into EJ22 engine blocks. are you wanting to swap rods or what? crank, mains, rods, rod bearings, pistons, piston rings, cylinder sleeves....let's talk about some parts.

i'd look into new ones or post in the parts wanted forum here, someone will have them. i probably even have some used ones laying around, send me a PM or email.

Found an H6 transmission I'd like to get but would like to check mileage first before I buy. But these have the digital odometers and it's dead, it's a parts car. Can someone do a car-fax for me to check mileage or is there another way? Not sure if I can get a battery/car into this yard or not, but maybe a tractor battery is at least portable. 4S3BH806017664733 is the VIN google gets me nothing (sometimes it's worked before)

subaru rear differentials almost never fail, extremely rare. positively identify it first. the good news is that if it is a rear differential failure it should be really inexpensive to buy a used one and more than likely the used one will last 300,000 miles if it's never run low on gear oil. they just never fail. i'm nearing 200,000 miles on 3 of my daily drivers and fully expect all of them to go to 300,000 and i'd bet a lot money the rear diffs won't have any issues making that. all that to say - buy used. even folks driving 1980's subaru almost all have the original rear diffs, they just don't fail. drain the fluid and check for chunks/pieces. if it's making noise there should be evidence in the fluid. or if it doesn't have any fluid that might help you decide too! rear differentials aren't that hard to replace at all if you're up to doing it yourself and there's certainly nothing special about Subaru's so finding a lower hourly rate shop to do it is a great choice in this case.

you ignore the first digit - it's the last 4 that a lock smith can cut from, not sure why Subaru needed the first. maybe they do need it, but a locksmith will not. call any one in the phone book and they'll be able to fire it right up. but Subaru should be able to as well.

in general EJ25 internals won't completely swap into an EJ22 block - the pistons are too big for the 2.2 sleeve. but i'm not sure "which" internals you're talking about exactly. you can swap short blocks, that's done all the time. you would also need to specify which EJ25 and EJ22 as there are different ones.

i may be buying an H6 transmission right by my house this week or next. they have the entire car, i can ask what they want for the driveshaft and mail it to you. just let me know if you're serious about it.

bearing location and diff side flange end is the same. makes sense - this model was available with the EJ25 which would have EJ25 stuff and carrier bearing mount and the rear diff's are interchangeable so the flange ends should be the same. i just happened to remove a rear drive shaft from a 2003 H6 Outback on Monday and can visually confirm those things. i just looked up H4 driveshafts on ebay and it looks identical to those - but that of course still isn't very helpful but at least it doesn't negate your suspicsions either. now - as to length and trans fitting i'm not sure, though my *guess*, like yours is that there is a chance. not sure how to confirm? if yours is bad - can you remove it and take it to a junk yard with you to verify?

parts interchange does not say that 2001 and 2003 H6 (non-VDC) transmissions interchange. i'm guessing they do, nothing really changed during that time that i can think of. the 2003 has onstar - hope that doesn't crack it up! :lol: anyone think of a reason they should not? found one that's only a few miles from my house for sale, so that would be a nice hit.

bolt the new trans up to the engine now and drop them in as one lump and be done with it. i've done that before, would save you some labor/time.

are you positive the rear main seal is the problem? they very rarely leak on subaru's....like really rare. granted after that many miles, etc anything is possible but it is rare and a huge job for one seal. make absolutely sure that's it. on EA/ER engines i only use Subaru seals, they are more consistent. notice i didn't say aftermarket are "bad". i have had aftermarket EA/ER seals not fit properly and leak. i've used fel-pro's mutliple times for EA/ER crank seals with no problems - i've also had one be too large and not fit properly - same part number as the rest that i had no problems with. i have used plenty of aftermarket seals that work fine too, but the few failures i've had aren't worth it considering the time and subaru seals aren't expensive anyway. others have had poor aftermarket seals too. good time to replace the clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch retaining clips while it's apart. or the torque converter seal if automatic. at least replace the pilot/throw out bearings and clips, only a few dollars even if yo'ure keeping all the clutch bits. oil pan requires lifting the motor to replace so good time to look at that and make a call.

not sure about EA81's but some subaru exhausts have multiple cats - i know XT's have one in the y-pipe and another dedicated unit after it. maybe the bits are stuck somewhere in there from him busting it up or he didn't knock them all out.

clogged exhaust/converter? i generally don't suggest starting there, doesn't happen often on Subaru's, but it does happen and you've really covered a lot of the major items. does all of your driveline spin freely - wheels and driveshaft? can't imagine those being an issue without some actual symptoms though you mentioned the "braking feeling". probably just lack of power at speed.

other than VDC models, anyone know the differences between EJ25 and EZ30 auto trans in the 2000-2004 generation stuff?

interesting. my old 97 impreza OBS (owned by a friend now) is, my friends 97 Legacy L sedan is, and my buddies 97 impreza sedan is as well. maybe i have bad luck, i bought all of those cars. regional difference, luck?

here are aftermarket pistons: http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/rodpistoncombo_subaru.html you might want to look into rebuild costs - they are rather costly. i got all amped up to rebuild a subaru motor a few years ago then started pricing it all out and it's not cheap at all once you start tearing into the block. i'd price out everything and see what the financial picture actually looks like. headgaskets, resurfacing heads, valve job, delta cams....you're already at the cost of just buying an EJ22 in my neck of the woods. more money, less power. you could also buy a car with a blown motor, install the Ej18, sell it, and then buy an EJ22. or buy a cheap car with a good EJ22 - swap motors and resell it. i could easily end up ahead doing that here, but it's not hard to find rusted out cheap cars that are otherwise in great shape out here.

what he said on telling the difference. it originally came with an EJ25 but they're very easy to swap and it could be an EJ22.

oh wow that stinks. i was kind of thinking that was what was happening but it's been awhile and i've lost sight of the innards on those things.

perfect timing, i have a drain on an XT6 that i'm going to be working on this week, was working on other stuff on it yesterday. pulling fusible link for a year is all wrong! thanks for the info and leaks. i already traced mine down with the pull the fuse method, like which fuse in the interior box is causing the drain. but never got further than that. be sure not to use *anything* on the car that draws power while testing milliamp draw. i accidentally bumped just the door switch and the tiny draw of the light blew the fuse in my multimeter. might want to make sure you have a spare fuse on hand for the meter if you're using one. was annoying to blow it and then have none on hand to keep working.

oh and many EJ22 and EJ18 parts are interchangeable, so you might see a lot of EJ22 commentary since that's the more common engine when talking about parts, etc. like lightweight pulleys for instance if you were looking into those - same part.