idosubaru

great thanks guys, glad i didn't bother bolting it together. i'll take them to the shop tomorrow and see what they say.

if it's just 4th gear, then you could rarely use it and just go from 3rd to 5th. probably depends what kind of driving you do if you'd need 4th gear a lot, like in steep mountains or something. but for daily driving in flat land i bet you wouldn't need it much. i've lifted a bunch of them but have never weighed one. i'd say it's a good 150 pounds maybe a bit more. you can definitely move it around yourself on the ground. you won't be pushing it up into the car by yourself though. it's too awkward getting the right angle and lifting it while on your back. strap it to a jack. maybe you're asking because of shipping? i'm supposed to be picking up a 2003 manual trans GT parts car soon. not planning on heading to the northeast any time soon though.

The EJ25 heads I had resurfaced and pressure tested are rougher than any set of heads I've ever gotten. Same place I've always gone since moving here, they do the local dealership machine shop work too. There are visual gouges. The worst one traverses all the way from the combustion chamber to the edge of the head. It gets shallower as it goes and is much shallower by the time it reaches the gasket. Also, wiping white shop towels across it pulls tiny fluff off the towel. I'm used to a smoother surface than this. I realize machining is mostly for flatness but what say y'all? Does this sound normal? *Edit I attached the best cropped photo I have of the gouge I mentioned above. It shows a bit of what I'm talking about. The worst gouge is about 1/2" to the left of the hole on the right in the picture.

that was easy, thanks. little simpler than the EJ25D yep, already had the spark plug gaskets. this is a complete headgasket job.

How is it done on 2000-2004 EJ25's? Couldn't find any specifics while searching. What kind of feeler gauges should I buy (if I can't find that set that I haven't ever used but had years ago)? And can someone point me in the right direction on how to physically do it? My FSM is actually missing that page....has the start up to the steps up to removing timing belt....then the next page is missing which would have all the steps to doing it.

just in case it's not clear, there are two 1.8 liter engines, that could be confusing you because they are in no way compatiable at all. one is really easy to swap to EJ22 and the other is not. yours being a Loyale it is not an easy swap to an EJ22 - it'll require the write up he mentioend above. as far as a coolant leak - do you want to try to diagnose and repair that?. the most common problem is the intake manifold gaskets leaks as they have water passages in them. if that's the case, that's just a matter of pulling the intake manifold and replacing some gaskets. even something else might have a repair.

if the plugs and wires weren't from Subaru or OEM then i'd still be curious about the wires. i've seen brand new aftermarket wires cause misfires (on a 97 OBS) right out of the box. subaru wires are actually cheap. other possibility is the coil pack. are you getting codes and for which cylinders?

cool, glad to see you finding some options for replacement 1-3-2-4! yes - be aware of the external headgasket leaks of the Phase II EJ25's that's in your 2001 Legacy GT. common issue. be nice to know if it's already been replaced, you may be able to tell by inspecting. they typically leak between the engine and firewall on the backside of the engine- a visual inspection is all you need. they won't overheat until they run really low on coolant. the GT's ride really nice, i like them, the wagons too. the slave cylinders and hose for the manual trans are prone to failure too and are usually replaced in a set and a real PITA to bleed! this engine requires a Subaru coolant condition due to that issue and has an extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty. the dealer may be able to tell you if it's been replaced or not via the VIN. trans swaps are easy but really annoying too. the process is easy and not much to it, it's just access and working under a car that's the hard part. good equipment helps. exhaust is probably my least favorite part, due to rust. outside of that you can have it on the ground in an hour or two....if all goes well. trans shop where I'm from in MD would only charge $150 labor for a trans swap (10 years ago, with no parts or fluid charges). and they were a well respected place that was around for a long time. doubt that's the norm, but it suggests the job can be quick with good equipment.

a member here had his replaced and the dealer did all the labor for free, he paid for parts. you could find his thread, it was in the past couple of days. that's heard of before and can be found in other threads. you may want to edit your title to indicate out of warranty repairs since it seems like that's what you're after.

Had a set of SOHC EJ25 heads (2000) resurfaced and pressure tested. Shop said they loosened some bolts/nuts in order to resurface them - which ones? Would they loosen the nuts on top of the valve springs or the bolts holding the valve train/cam in place? They said they torqued them down but I'd like to check the torques and possibly even retorque them.

non interference - no chance of internal engine damage with breakage. ebay kit are the way to go - EA82 kits are really cheap - like $60 or $80 for the belt and all new pulleys. excellent deal. Not for this engine, that's only for newer EJ engines. EA82's and EJ18's and some EJ22's are 60,000 miles.

i probably have a couple sets of rear calipers if you want an extra to play with mike. i'd look into getting new clips for the calipers, i've had them get corrossion or rust and cause the pad to hang up even on EJ vehicles.

by "screw" you mean a 10 or 12mm bolt right? if that came out i think you have a better chance than i ever do to get the sensor out, my experience is similar to daves that they just never come out easily without damaging them. is there much rust on the bolt/hub? if so then that's not a good sign. but it's rare i ever get the bolt out, so sound slike you're a step ahead of us in terms of rust? quality penetrant may help and let it soak for a few days, hitting it a couple of times. heat is your friend - you want to heat the knuckle the sensor slides into though and not the sensor istelf...obviously. tricky with plastic. the heating/expansion can help separate things.

wow that's awesome. did they do that automatically or you checked? i'm assuming you asked since you mentioned it not being part of the campaign? nice $1,500 score, good job.

once i've seen an automatic (97 OBS) freak out and not shift right due to EGR related issues. it was really bad, would barely make it up a steep incline. i replaced the EGR and nothing changed. turned out to be the little tiny quarter sized shaped filter on the passengers side of the engine bay. there's a vacuum line going from the engine to that area and in the middle of it is a quarter sized 1/4" thick white plastic-ish filter that costs like $7 from subaru. i replaced that and the EGR code went away and shifting went back to normal. that issue hasn't returned in years, my friends relative is still driving the car.

OB has cladding and a hole for the cladding clips for the trim piece behind the wheel. Are there any other differences - like where the front bumper meets the fender - is that area different between GT and OB?

hopefully he's not doing this: the test he should be doing is an exhaust gases in the coolant test (which are available at most auto parts stores i believe). might want to call and ask to save everyone the trouble. many mechanics do not know that EJ motors almost always pass compression tests with blown headgaskets. i've even seen them pass compression and exhaust gases test but that's probably rare or maybe the test just didn't take for some reason.

some 2000-2002's were subject to the extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty campaign. you're probably past the time limit but doesn't hurt to talk to the people there and even the regional folks - sometimes they at least cut a deal - pay for half, pay for parts, etc. it's happened before. $2,000 is really steep, but not out of line for dealers. but, it should be low maintenance for another 100k at least. i'd prefer to have an independent or someone from here to do the job actually. a dealer is going to reinstall all the old timing belt pulleys and tensioners as they're too expensive to replace from subaru. so you'll have a new timing belt with 10+ year old pulleys and tensioner (which is less reliable than the older style). non-dealers can use the ebay timing belt kits and get all new pulleys with it like tons of us do on here. i'd probably have it replaced again early, i wouldn't wait until 180,000 to replace it again.

transfer clutches are in automatics, not manuals. i'm not sure why you're asking but you must be reading/looking elsewhere, maybe you could point to that so we can be on the same page? the rear differential could fail though, i believe the 03 GT has a VLSD.

sweet, i edited it. when did that change happen? i must be confusing that with the keyless remote programming because i thought for sure i've done this before on a newer one...?

found one for you to reference: you can ask the dealer to match the online Subaru pricing. it's about a %20 difference between dealer pricing and online dealer pricing. which in your case could be close to $100. i ask the local dealer to match the on,ine prices and they give me a discount - it's about %1-%2 less than the online but i save shipping too and can have the part quicker. dealers have pricing for local shops or locals like me that ask, they do it every day, you just have to ask. doesn't hurt to print the price out and ask if they can match that price for you (which they can, it's just a matter of if they will) as you've been conversing with some Subaru "specialists". i did this with my old dealer in maryland as well. when i went in last week there was a new guy. i told him the old joker used to give me the discount to match online pricing and he was like "yep, i can do that". hmmmm...this doesn't help my $1500 offer does it?

actually west chester is probably closer to me, i live in Morgantown, WV and am from the Baltimore area. good luck getting some better quotes. i'd tell you to run from a place that quotes that much but if they've always been good to you, then maybe you can go talk to them about it. the service managers are trained to sell - maybe there's a better one to talk to or they quoted some additional work, some work you don't need, etc. others have posted how much dealers have charged for this job on here.

have you measured the bearing dimensions, compared it to others? i would install new bearings if the engine wasn't previously oil-starved or severely overheated in which case i'd have it oversized or get another block. these engines do not have main bearing failures for no reason, it's caused by cooling or oiling issues. otherwise they outlast all sorts of other things on the car.

while i wouldn't want to miss something simple it does sound like the headgasket is hosed. make sure you don't have a slow leak or loss of coolant as this will introduce air and cause overheating. does not sound like a radiator or thermostat. tell the mechanic not to bother with a compression test, they rarely (if ever) show anything on these motors unless they're really hosed. which yours obviously isn't given the current description we have. if you like the car and want another 50-100k out of it, that might be possible. get an ebay timing belt kit and use Subaru only headgaskets.

no the 16 times at start up doesn't mean anything. it's kind of like the "Check Engine Light" in that it just indicates that there is a problem, but doesn't tell you what the problem is. you have to get it to flash the codes to you. torn CV won't affect the trans at all. I answered that one already: new would be a complete waste of money. it's so easy to replace and they don't ever fail...which brings us to the point that it might not even be that resistor so i wouldn't worry about it yet. the terribly dirty fluid makes me suspicious that it's going to be a solenoid in the trans, but the code will probably clear some things up. as for parts, often times you're best bet is to search or ask here. there are some parts best to obtain from Subaru, some you can't get anywhere else, and some are best gotten elsewhere. depends on the year/model/engine/part.