idosubaru

woah crack, what is this stuff? it works good, better than epoxy then?

ECU's very rarely fail, i wouldn't assume the ECU is bad until you do some appropriate testing.

you'll be just removing the axle and then replacing the entire axle right? ***Mike: wait until the snow clears and i'll bring my 3/4" stuff and punch in to my office and you can do it in my parking lot. i'll be here for pointers. Give it two hours being your first time, but it can be done much faster. i've put 50,000 miles on broken boot/clicking front CV joints before, not much to worry about and they're already hosed so you've got plenty of time. although i find some of this black cinder/coal stuff they throw on the roads out our way in the winter really eat them up much much quicker than that, but you'll hear them gradually making more noise and eventually clicking when going straight - that's when i used to start moving quicker on them. you need a 32mm socket and 1/2" stuff can break, so 3/4" is preferred. that axle nut is one of the hardest to remove on the vehicle. axles are actually very simple. remove the axle nut - then remove the top strut mount bolt, loosen the lower and knock the pin out at the transmission. so - it requires removing one nut and one bolt, loosening another, and that's it. notes: #1 the top strut mount bolt affects alignment so mark the top of the bolt (not the nut) so you can reinstall it the same way. don't be scared by this, it's really simple and not a hugely accurate adjustment. i hold a chisel against the head and strut body and hit it with a hammer so it marks the strut mount and head of the bolt at the same point - realign to that same point, very simple. #2 the axle pin is a 3/16" pin and you need a punch of that size. it only installs ONE way. on one side the hole the pin goes through has a groove in the middle, on the other side it's a peak going through the middle. visually look at the axle holes and trans stub holes first, then install, otherwise the pin doesn't go through. #3 - pull the trans side off the trans first, shove the axle "up" and while holding it pull it out of the hub. then wiggle it out. install the opposite way - hold axle up, install into hub, then onto trans.

I have a few, how do I attach .pdf's? ***sorry it's just a comment, i'll edit it once i figure out how to attach...

get a used subaru axle and reboot it or get an MWE axle. aftermarkets are a waste of time, they have way too many issues and you're supporting junk too.

No, not at all. It just needs power. I wasn't sure if you were trying to retrofit all the controls for it.

i've heard of one seal between the atf and front diff, but not sure it matters, the trans sounds hosed. these transmission aren't typically repaired, though you could try it if you want to separate the diff and trans. if it were me i'd plan on trashing the trans anyway so i'd dump two bottles of AutoTransX Stop Leak into the trans fluid and see if it helps swell that seal. then if that didn't work i'd put another transmission in it if the car is worth keeping. if you junk the trans, keep the rear extension housing and Duty C solenoid (removable once that rear extension housing is removed - which is easy). that way if you have torque bind in the future you've got the parts to fix it. or - if you know yours doesn't have torque bind for sure you could install your duty c and rear housing on a used trans before you install it in the car.

wow that doesn't sound good. you're filling through the ATF and not the diff right? diff is passengers side dipstick, ATF is drivers side dipstick. that's confused folks before. no previous work - what happened right before this happened? was the car running and driving perfectly fine? engine wasn't pulled was it?

i would concentrate on the wheel bearings for now. have someone ride in the rear and try to diagnose if it sounds like it's from one side or the other. betting you find it's wheel bearing related. typical early forester issue.

like he said a few have switched to ATF without issue. you planning on installing the entire wiring/control system or just making your own?

no sight glass on these i don't believe. i have a set of gauges so i could do that. i was kind of curious though about how temp's affect it cycling.

it's the same on all 4EATs...well not sure about 2005's :lol:, just cut one wire, it's really simple the way it all works. i've done it on XT6's which have the same 4EAT as the EA era stuff, exactly the same and very simple. like he said, you have to make sure it's actually a 4EAT and not those old 3AT's.

EJ25's have headgasket issues (two different issues as GD mentioned through the various phases) from their inception in 1996 through somewhere to 2003 or later, 2003 being the "supposed" year, but there are reports of issues beyond that (including members here). mileage is meaningless on this, it is not a wear item. some failed at 20,000 miles and some never failed. a friend has one at 260,000 on the originals. i've bought some that failed at 30,000. mileage means nothing in this case. they're just old enough now that very few have that kind of low mileage. i'd feel better about a 2000+ (or 99 forester/Impreza RS) as that EJ25 is less prone to failure, has some preventative measures (the cooling additive), and won't leave you stranded if they start to fail - they just gradually start to seap when they leak and it's rather benign actually. a great option is to find one already repaired (hopefully with documentation that subaru gaskets were used), or find one with a blown motor for $500 and have it repaired for $1,000-$4,000 and have yourself in a really good vehicle for reasonable price. it's not hard to find them with gaskets already replaced or a blown one. i've bought a bunch and can find a couple any given week.

yes...depending what you mean by "work on a". it'll bolt up just fine. final drive ratios may differ. simplest work around is to get a matching rear diff. one annoyance is that final drive ratios aren't nearly as simple to determine as you'd think. sometimes a simple "year, make, model" really doesn't narrow it down to %100 accuracy, if it was that simple i'd know what these two vehicles were like i know what motors are in them. although manual trans usually have more info available for this. my *guess* is that the 97 EJ22 is a 3.9 and the forester a 4.11 - but maybe they're both 4.11? that's the only two final drive ratios available, so they're one of those two. the 99 Forester may be hydraulic and the 97 EJ22 legacy's i've seen are cable operated. you could try and work around that, just pointing out a possibility. there was speed sensor change somewhere in Phase II era stuff but i'm not real well versed in when that occured and exactly what it means - but i think it was after 99.

right - i'm curious as to the cycling of the compressor, not that it comes on. title of the topic is a bit misleading. is that pressure or temperature controlled and would it cycle more in winter?

forester. it's cycling...on....off....on...off, i figure it's normal. seemed to be cycling off a lot more when first started than when warm - maybe it's temp dependent. GG

if it's 15 degrees outside will the a/c compressor still turn on when Defrost mode and A/C is selected? mine is cycling on for a few seconds, then turns off for an extended period. is that due to the really cold outside temps? i can already here the comments about a/c being used in the winter and months away from seeing 60 degrees, yes I know this sounds funny.

Hmm, good question - experience suggests I wouldn't expect to see any piston damage......but I'm not sure why and could be wrong. SOHC is confusing because earlier SOHC EJ22's are not inteference engines (1990-1996). But later SOHC EJ25's are interference, so I think that acronym confuses people since SOHC doesn't refer to one engine but sometimes it seems like it does. What you're really asking is about Phase II EJ25 interference - I thought technically speaking they are valve to valve and valve to piston interference but usually only sustain valve damage when the belts break - I've never seen or heard of piston damage.....

read the label and seeing if it recommends using it on internally leaking headgaskets. if it says it does, i wouldn't believe it, or it's a very low success rate. if it doesn't work on properly installed, seated, and sealed gaskets from the factory (which it doesn't) - so it would be very odd for it to seal improperly seated headgaskets. conditioners/additives are used in the externally leaking Phase II EJ25's - not the internally leaking Phase I EJ25's. fixes in a bottle are unlikely to hold up to the combustion process. for a short term fix and a block or vehicle you plan on junking - try it, use three bottles if you want and see what happens. if you want to keep the car and engine for awhile then don't use it. this kind of stuff will never have an answer, it's all anecdotal, so do whatever you want - it sounds like you want to try it, so go try it. it may help %10 of the time (i doubt it's that high on internally leaking subaru headgaskets)....but there may short term fixes in %90 and long term consequences in %80 of the those %10...it's a differential equation, not a black and white question like you're making it out to be.

two guys on subaruxt.com have installed RAM (the place he just mentioned) pistons in their XT6 ER27 engines - which is the exact same piston, piston ring, valve train, HLA's (all interchangeable) as the EA82 - it's just two more cylinders slapped on. they have some standard items as well as will customize things for you as well if you wish. i've been to their facility and talked with them, they do nice work! one has a complete thread detailing the rebuild with nice photo's of the process and RAM pistons.

another guy posted on this forum that he has a 2000 impreza rack on his 98 legacy. since a 98 Legacy rack will fit your 95 - my assumptions are that first gen and later gen impreza racks will fit yours as well. sometimes the ebay listings are telling - in that they indicate cross overs information.

i'd be really surprised if it didn't work. that being said, subaru steering racks very rarely fail and are relatively easy to replace - did you consider just getting a used unit? I guess being RHD makes that more difficult? sometimes ebay has really cheap subaru racks - i've seen new rebuilt older gen ones for $30-$60 before, haven't looked up EJ's though...or RHD. 786-262-8100 / 305-992-7929 these guys have new rebuilts for $207 (shipping included from FL). 1-800-553-3283 $175 used, seems high but there aren't many out there.

right, this doesn't say much about NAPA. the aftermarket axle industry is the problem, not NAPA. you can buy low percentage axles from any auto parts store just about, except Subaru and MWE. it'd be nice if places started recognizing and trying to do something about the problem but the economic incentive isn't there since buyers want cheap.

yep. jump on a good deal but blown EJ25's are not like winning the lottery, they aren't rare.

correct. only valves collide in EJ25's. now...could a valve collide, break, and the scar the piston and cylinder walls - i don't know. i haven't seen it or heard of it happening before.