idosubaru

how about call the police and ask about noise ordinances in your community? laws are in place for a reason. might even want to look up what the laws are before hand. sue him for breaking the law....class action suit for the whole community, that's the american way. seriously, a poor guy like that isn't going to care about your car alarm or what anyone else thinks about your car alarm. he'll probably get a little twitch and warm fuzzies from your alarm going off (if he even hears it). someone who needs to identify with and get that much attention from a two wheeled piece of metal is not going to care. maybe some white noise in your room will help drown it out?

he told us a bit about this project given that he's already calling around about engine rebuild prices. if he's calling about rebuilds i don't think he's trying to do this "as cheap as possible" and he's probably well aware of used options.

did you cut and splice the wiring, swap harnesses, swap intake manifolds, or what? tell us exactly how you did it with specific details. i would intall the original cam sprockets and crank shaft sprockets in the engine that's in the car. it will require removing the timing belts to replace the sprocket behind the crank pulley (harmonic balancer).

the most cost effective solution is to get a known good used engine and completely reseal it. headgaskets and all. fel-pro permatorques for the headgaskets. if you're doing some of the work many local machine shops can do much of the work for you - rebuild just the short block and you do the heads or possibly all of it, etc.

personal preference. i bought a kubota without a carb and i absolutely love this machine that starts all the time, sits all winter, starts right up in the spring, never needs cleaning, never needs adjusting, never needs rebuilding, and idles smooth all the time and they retain their value (no wonder) and run forever. i wish i would have bought one a long time ago. but if you don't mind the minor hitches of antiquated technology then tear it up, it is simple enough. it would certainly be much simpler than an entire MPFI swap, all that wiring sounds daunting. having a back up vehicle for a daily driver would be nice in that case. i'm guessing the carb project might be cheaper too, no worries about sensors, ECU's or anything like that you might break or need in the process.

i'm confused as to what you're talking about. if by camshaft end caps, you mean the actual camshaft end caps that house the camseal - they do not get any sealant. you're talking about machined surfaces and bearing surfaces, which do not get sealant. camshaft end caps only have an oring to seal them. no sealant. so you're terminology (camshaft end cap) is confusing or it doesn't get any sealant.

Try to jump it. If that doesn't work give the starter 12 volts and let us know what happens. Battery, starter, or ground wire are likely bad.

Leonidas, that's awesome! This joker and I go waaaaay back!

no sealant. there's nothing anywhere, ever, anyplace that ever suggests using sealant.

Just about any EJ trans will hold up fine as a daily driver. Probably good to avoid one with 250,000 miles on it. If you're going to be pounding it like crazy you might have to think a bit differently.

if you just need the thing driveable you can unplug the transmission wiring harness and it'll run in 3rd gear all the time. only probably with that is it's also "locked" 4wd then. you can either disconnect the rear half of the driveshaft or wire in a switch (only one wire) to control the Duty C solenoid. This is all as easy as making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich compared to your turbo build.

Yeah you can flip it. Price seems a bit high, but I find it good to work backwards and make sure you're comfortable which sounds like you are. Around here I'd think I could get $4,000 depending on condition and mileage. $3,300 sounds really low.

99 Forester should be a Phase II EJ25. Not much in parts other than the headgasket and typical timing job associated stuff which Dave outlined if you choose to do any of that. Minimum - headgaskets, valve cover gaskets (i guess those aren't required but i'd do them), antifreeze, hose clamps - so yeah $200 will cover that. Add timing associated stuff if applicable like Dave mentioned. Might need some shims if you're adjusting the valves too. Clean the radiator if any oil/coolant mixing which is unlikely.

Guy i'm helping (all kind of instructing and coaching over the phone) is doing it himself this weekend. I asked for pictures and forwarded him that contact info CCR posted (thanks!). I guess he's feeling comfortable with it since he hasn't emailed photo's to me, etc.

sounds like headgasket but it's smart to make sure it's not something simple like a cap (a few dollars), thermostat ($12), or radiator, or a leak somewhere else. thing is any leak on these engines can cause overheating. but it does sound like typical EJ25 headgasket. if the car is in good shape it could still be a great candidate for another 100,000 miles or so. i'd plan on replacing everything - headgaskets, timing belt, timing pulleys, tensioner, and water pump, as well as reseal the oil pump and replace the cam seals. make your decision based on that cost - which is probably around $1,500 to have it repaired somewhere. being an interference engine, it's 10 years old and those components are ready for a change anyway. a complete timing belt job runs $800 or so, so you're not paying much more than that really. it's a great deal for another 5-10 years or 100,000 miles depending on condition and you like the car.

i'm all about innovation and trying stuff, but just making sure you know the lack of reliability and other issues. bare with the party pooper for a moment. the ER27 is a horrible platform for forced induction/power. if you just want to do it and don't care how reliable it is or the fact that you'll get half the horsepower at twice the cost of other options then that's cool. the 4EAT won't hold the power you're talking about if you're actually using it. join us over at the subaruxt.com forum.

yep, i bet it's identical. the engine and trans in 96 and 97 are completely interchangeable and swappable, plug and play. wire color should be the same but if it's not the pin number certainly is. thanks.

yeah, there's no difference. often times there are brake line or ABS brackets or attachment points. neither are critical to the functioning of the strut. of course you'd want to carefully run the brake and ABS lines and protect them, but the strut differences are benign otherwise. same goes for passengers/driver side struts. they are only different in the location of those same reference components, otherwise they are interchangeable all day long.

GAH - post that pin number please!!!!

Cool, I would try exactly that. But, it might not be as simple as swapping ECU's. Often the ECU's can run either car, they are "looking" for inputs and pins that tell them what the car is. That's why you can interchange ECU's between auto and manual vehicles - the ECU 'knows' what it is and can run either by identifying it. Same thing could happen here - you install a "nonEGR" (so you think) ECU into your car, but then it "sees" that yours is an EGR equipped vehicle so it still throws the code. That being said, it's worth a shot since the ECU is so easy to replace. Any 1995-1998 EJ22 ECU would be fine. Just make absolutely sure it doesn't have EGR. A 1995 Manual should be a sure bet, assuming the ECU's are interchangeable. For some reason I feel like I got a 95 ECU and it was different plugs, but I might be mistaken. Someone will pipe up an verify that.

Anyone remember those? A company at one time made kits to repair damaged crankshaft ends. I could not find any information on them here, but I do know I've seen them before years ago. Anyone remember those? A guy I know has a rather horribly beat up crankshaft. He's a couple hours away from me but is going to attempt to repair it.

Often you can just chase the threads with a die and clean the threads in the nut with a tap. They should thread on fine then. 12x1.25 thread is your money maker. Good tools to have on hand for the future as well.

i think someone mentioned in your other thread about the relay going bad. they are probably right. when you put the key in and press the button on the shifter you should hear clicking. if you don't that relay is probably bad. i have a 96 legacy as well and the clicking comes from somewhere behind the stereo. i would guess it's either accessed behind the stereo or it might be accessible from the drivers footwell area, above the gas pedal so to speak. if you can find the relay you can just knock it with something to. while only temporary, it may determine if the relay is the issue.

That's what I've always wondered and I've brought it up before. You can find the old threads and see what folks say, but I don't think it was anything definitive. It may even be that the ECU's aren't actually different. I've always thought that messing with the EGR is the wrong way, why not make it think it's one of the "non-EGR" vehicles. But, I've asked before and it doesn't seem like anyone knows the magic formula. The ECU issue is that almost all non-EGR 1995+ ECU's are manual transmissions. So if you have a manual trans that might work. If you have an auto you're hosed. Although I did own a 1997/8 Impreza OBS EJ22 without EGR that was an automatic. DANG IT I wish I would have known back then about this and I would have taken the ECU. The intake manifold (non-EGR) is the one currently in my Legacy LSi, so i'm absolutely positive it was a non-EGR automatic. Good luck ever seeing one of those again.

yes. although 2WD and 4WD rear struts are a bit longer, they are interchangebale.