idosubaru

wow, that sucks. Looks like the pulleys are about $60 each online for a total of $180 + tensioner for $150 = $330 for pulleys and $60 for the belt, so that's about $400. That's $200 more than ebay, but you then have the option of not replacing any good ones too. I successfully regreased an EJ25 idler pulley the other day, but it's very hard to do without compromising the seal. I ruined one in the process, which was fine it was no good to use anyway. Thanks for the feedback. Be interesting to see if more reports like this come around, one time isn't a trend. I need to get a press and just start doing my own bearings.

you haven't offended anyone, just learn how to use the board and value other folks using and helping here. it's really easy to use the board, so just take a few seconds to click around and figure out where stuff is, there's even a 'site suggestions' or 'site help' forum you can ask if you're confused about something. the thing is - it actually gets way confusing if you have multiple lines of communication open and we have to repeat things in multiple places or folks are sayihng the same/different things but don't know it because you've started 4 threads and PM'ed 10 people. so actually - one venue is far more efficient. what you can do is start a new thread. then say "hey i like what so-and-so" has to say or offer, i will PM them a link to the thread i started. that's a good way to do it.

oil pump is probably fine, but the FSM will have spec's and procedures for testing it. head gaskets are not to be reused. remember that interesting torque sequence you did? that's because the sealing of the head gasket is a rather complex thing. it's the one seal that's holding internal combustion forces at bay. go with those new ones, you did the right thing.

i'm not a moderator but this is way over the top to be posting all of these threads and PM'ing tons of members. relax and let us work with you here, best not to smother folks and be insanely demanding.

the intake manifolds are not interchangeable. 99 had some significant changes to it, i'm not sure if the electronics are different or not - meaning a 1998 will plug and play - a 1999 i'm not sure. As a last resort the for sure way is to "make" an Ej25 manifold by swapping your Ej25 intake manifold wiring harness onto the EJ22 intake manifold. then you KNOW it's plug and play. also a chance the cam pulleys aren't going to work for you. on SOHC swaps you can just swap cam pulleys, not sure if that still works on SOHC to DOHC swaps like this. you'd need to swap the pulley that has the sensor associated with it i suppose - but that's uncharted territory for me. assuming you get everything to work, you don't need to touch the ECU. glad to see you posting a thread, this is the way to go about it, not PM's copied and pasted to a bunch of folks.

yeah it is, he's not talking about your link OBW. it's pretty stupid when OBW finds brake pads one way that aren't listed at all when you search the way i did. not very efficient to have multiple database searches that aren't the same.

EJ22's have single piston calipers EJ25's have dual piston calipers

or two bolts. Subaru liked to change brake caliper styles with the tides :rolleyes: i digress, i'm bitter over the stores lack of ability to find the right pads!!!!

necessary for what? replacing the axle - no. remember my comment above - once the wheel is off, only need to remove ONE BOLT to do this job. doesn't require touching the brakes.

Link doesn't work and NAPA doesn't have any EJ25 listings. You must have accessed that some other way than the drop down listing. If you choose 1998, Subaru, and Legacy it only gives the EJ22 option. How did you get it to come up? They are *supposed* to have it by tomorrow morning, I hope it's the right thing for my 1996 Legacy Lsi. The first set was wrong.

wowsers ancient thread batman! someone give this newbie a prize for using the search function, woo hoo!!! what do you mean "you are getting a jumped belt"? yes the tensioners do go bad, best to replace them on an interference and 100,000 mile timing change interval engine. if the belt jumps on this motor it will likely sustain bent valves, so you could have significant damage. hope that's not the case for you.

Came across this while searching so I'll give the update now that it's a daily driver. When the bumper hits something the heated seats come on, is that supposed to happen? just kidding. I'm a few months into this car and all is working perfectly. I replaced the bags, seat belts, and computer. No problems and no SRS light.

my T 45 torx head bit sheared off, is that a size that's required for air bag torx head bolts?

i think it's similar in the 4EAT - there is a switch function of the TPS. somehow the 4EAT needs to "know" when to shift though, I'd think it's getting some kind of input from the ECU/engine sensors. EA/ER ECU's are interchangeable between manual and automatic transmissions, so it's not overly complicated whatever role they play.

yes, the strut is mounted to the hub with two lower bolts - 17mm bolts. Remove the top one and loosen the other (so the hub can rotate "out" away from the car). Mark the head position of the bolt relative to the strut body so you can install it the same way it was originally installed and maintain your alignment. The strut body and bolt head actually have existing marks on it too, but a marker or chisel (if it's too dirty for a marker) is what I use. It's a tight fit, but pull it off the trans first and it will come out. Be careful installing the new axle, don't tear the boot. The axle only installs one way on the transmission - out of the two possible alignments of the holes for the axle pin, only one is correct. it's actually easy to tell ahead of time though if you look at the axle, look at the splines and match it to the trans shaft.

i have a bad EJ 4EAT if you're interested in the front housing, but it's probably not worth it unless you're really close to me.

never reuse a head gasket, they are not designed for that. you'll likely be fine either way. use your existing heads and have a valve job done, i usually do a valve job anyway when i'm doing head work. i don't like leaving the old valve stem seals in there. or get new heads from mike, he's a good guy, that's always nicer than dealing with unknown yards.

Does NAPA carry any EJ25 brake pads, I can't find any listed? Seems it only gives EJ22 stuff. Somehow it lists stuff for a 1998 Forester though?

no problems, that will work just fine. get the exhaust manifold and it's a bolt in and plug in affair. only concern is EGR - make sure the 1996 has EGR (99% of them do). as your EJ25 will have EGR. KEEP your EJ25 on hand, you'll need some small bits from the accessories off the EJ25 that bolt right onto the EJ22 (like power steering and a/c brackets), I do this stuff at the end, after the engine is in place. Leave the EJ25 A/C in place in the car, it'll swing out of the way enough to swap motors.

thanks scott. guess it'll be obvious, but those 4 1" spacers go above the diff to space it downwards?

A regular punch tends to be a real pain but they do work. Ebay has the "foreign" i think they call them, longer pin punches. I need to get one. The normal punches are typically not long enough to punch the pin all the way out and require you're hand to be right next to the axle - mostly a pain on the passengers side. If you have to resort to one of these smaller punches, you can "extend" them by putting a socket/extension over the ends of them. The nuts are 32 mm 99% of the time. 1/2" socket wrenches and breaker bars can break trying to loosening these nuts, they are EXTREMELY tight. i've broken 3 or 4 breaker bars on them, before I finally got a 3/4" drive and air tools. The axles can be replaced by removing only one bolt - the top strut mount bolt. Mark it's orientation (the head, not the nut) to reinstall the same way as it affects alignment. Loosen the lower bolt, pull the strut/hub/axle outward. It's tight but the axle comes out. This is by far my preferred method and almost a necessity if you have any rust issues.

rusted in there? just about any EJ hub will interchange just fine. just make sure it has ABS and they changed right around 2000 or 2001, so earlier than that. pretty sure just about all 1990-1999 impreza and legacy front hubs are interchangeable. don't get a front wheel drive hub (at least earlier impreza FWD's i know won't work) and make sure it's ABS compatible if it has ABS.

actually you're better off replacing the entire tensioner, the tensioning part does fail (i've seen it...just a couple months ago actually). the new style tensioners are less reliable than the old style (even though they're much more expensive). not a big deal for a one or two time expense. with 100,000 miles between belt changes on an interference engine it's best to replace the entire tensioner on this one. there is a significant (that term is relative!) risk in expecting the bearings and the hydraulic tensioning unit to make it 200,000 miles (to the next change).

Like chux said the wiring will be interesting as the TCU does use input from the motor, I think just the TPS but maybe more complicated than that too. It's mostly a stand alone affair, but it is integrated slightly, nothing scary complicated though. If the EJ and EA TPS signals differ I'm not sure what that would mean. Might it be possible to score an EJ 4EAT, like an entire car? Then you'd avoid the adapter plate issue, the TCU issue, and might get better gearing too. If you were really ambitious you could swap an EJ front diff or case onto the 4EAT trans body and make it a bolt on affair. then you can get one of those front locking differentials to boot.

your guess that's it's not a coincidence that you just did all this work and the pulley broke like that is dead on right. that cam pulley was previously stressed in some way to break like that. that woudl be sweet to have no damage.