idosubaru

Check with your local Subaru dealer, they will have the latest version on hand of the torque sequence.

lift blocks not necessary. a friend installed outback struts on his 97 legacy sedan and a bunch of folks have done the legacy wagons with fine (and level) results.

cool drew, hope you find something! they already said it and i'll affirm it by saying avoid rust. that's the reason i went with this XT6 from texas. it's not nearly as nice as i thought in many other respects (so choose carefully, get lots of info and picks) but in terms of rust it's amazingly free of it and easy to work on. surface rust on panels or certain areas isn't a big deal but in certain places a little rust turns into almost impossible to fix very quickly - like just a couple years.

my 96 Legacy LSi (4 wheel discs) has a warped rotor, but i don't think it's very bad - it doesn't vibrate nearly as much as other warped rotors i've had. but i'm not sure which rotor - largely in part because it's not prominent. can a failed wheel bearing cause a warped rotor? the rear wheel bearing got REALLY bad before i fixed it and the vibration seemed to start after that. extra heat = warped rotor? it's not as obvious as most that i've had - which maybe that points to the rear (since all my previous ones have been in the front)? are rear rotors harder to distinguish than fronts?

i would imagine frequency varies wildly and the number they recommend is just some huge averaged value, but i'm sure it's in the owners manual. my 02 has a small sticker on the drivers side door sill with a date/mileage on it for the cabin filter. i priced them at NAPA today $30 for my 2002 OBW. i think it's down by the drivers side kick panel, seems like there may have even been a sticker/note there?

i'm in the middle of a 98 DOHC timing belt right now. very easy - line up cams, line up crank - install belt and done. i use no special tools. if something goes whacky while you're doing it, which it might your first time, just start over, line everything up again and install it.

sorry for the extrapolation, i by no means meant that as fact, it was to solidify a point - not necessarily be accurate. aftermarkets have less catalyst in them, hence their lower value. lower costs and lower scrap yard prices.

sorry for the extrapolation, i by no means meant that as fact, just a fermi-problem. it doesn't matter - the fact remains that aftermarkets have less catalyst in them, hence their lower value. lower costs and lower scrap yard prices.

Aftermarkets use less catalyst in them than stock converters, and it makes sense as there is a useful market for them. The idea is that aftermarket converters have far fewer miles put on them then stock. Stock converters easily see 100k-200k where as the average for aftermarket converters would be substantially less. This is also why, during good markets, stock converters are worth 5 times aftermarket converters for scrap. That catalyst is most of the value. Based on that valuation you can assume that stock converters have *roughly* 5 times as much catalyst in them. If you then assume quantity of catalyst is directly proportional to usage then you could roughly say a stock converter makes 125,000 and an aftermarket makes 1/5 of that or 25,000 miles. Sorry

you can replace that boot. get a new one or even a used one if you had a good one lying around off a rack somewhere and money is that tight. with noises you probably need to investigate before proceeding. part of me says, replace that tie rod. tie rods are one of the most dangerous things to have fail in a car, so they aren't something to mess with. fortunately Subaru tie rods are very robust and not likely to fail. but...in this case, with having a significant noise issue you'd hate to chance it. so either replace the inner tie rod and boot or check to make absolutely sure the wheel bearing is the noise, then just reboot and regrease that inner rod. you seem fine about oding the wheel bearing yourself, you won't have any problems doing a tie rod, particularly considering i see no rust issues. they're actually rather simple. take off the outer tie rod - be careful not to rip the boot on it. keep track of the number of turns of threads (total rotations) as you remove the outer tie rod so that you can reinstall without messing up your alignment.

i'm not sure what your problem is. the cam and crank sprockets turn at different rates, that's normal and your marks on the belt will only line up every so many revolutions because of that. so after install or cranking the motor over once the marks won't line up any more (unless you just happen to check on the right number of revolutions). where the pulleys are lined up when you remove the old belt doesn't really matter, though it's nice to get them close so you have less to do and in good shape if it's an interference motor. the only thing that matters is lining up the pulleys when installing the new belt. the marks are unnecessary. although helpful, than can confuse folks. they only line up when installed and then once every so many revolutions (it's a lot). to keep it simple - line up cam sprockets with marks, line up crank - install belt. and you're done. the lines are nice, particularly for the first time or when you don't do many, but not needed at all.

that's not even close to true - there are tons of replies recommending repair. swaps are a good fit for some situations. remember, things aren't always black and white, yes or no, us verses them. now we're getting somewhere, woo hoo! the Phase II is much nicer, it won't leave you stranded. it will not overheat unless it runs low on coolant. flush the coolant and add the subaru recommended conditioner, or at least add the conditioner. the Phase II's leaking externally - you can drive them like this for a long time. the longer you drive it with bad headgaskets the more risk you run of doing internal engine damage, though i think it would take quite some time. i've seen aluminum chewed up where the head gasket breach occurred on vehicles run for many thousands of miles with blown gaskets. i suspect localized overheating that doesn't show on the gauge causes this, but i really don't know either that's just a guess.

you're talking about the two bolts holding the cap on with the oring underneath? there's nothing special about those. you install the cap and tighten the bolts. takes me about 4 seconds, i don't follow any specific procedures.

it's not about "someone" other than you, you're the one looking for info. we can help you out as much as you give us info on what you're trying to do/accomplish. what do you want to hear? they're good motors. inteference engine (all 97+ subaru engines are) so keep up with the timing belt change, preferrably with all new timing belt components depending on mileage and condition. ebay has sets for $200 for complete belt, pulleys, and tensioner. like most Subaru engines - give them a thorough tune up with timing belt and the seals behind it and you're good to go for another 100k if you don't run it out of oil or overheat it.

have you verified the front sensor(s) are good? you mention some electrical wire you zip-tied somethign too which apparently caused problems. check there for recurring problems. Subaru has a drive-test procedure for verifying cat verses sensor issues. Of course I'm doubtful you'll want to pay for that. I just bought a catalytic converter for a friends legacy on Ebay for $114 ( part plus shipping). I would think the replaced cats should last more than 25,000 miles even if they are aftermarket. That being said I'd check the Subaruoutbackforum, they seem to have a lot of experience and information on this issue over there. There are even folks that replace the cats without fixing the problem. can you do the work yourself. aside from rust this piece is actually really easy to replace. 4 bolts and you're done. good luck.

they are exchanging them for what i need, so it's all taken care of. thanks for the help folks. porcupine really went to town on the outback forum! i figured i screwed something up, i had no clue it was a glitch on their end.

Mike - find out what's wrong with it first. Should be simple to check the basics - spark at each cylinder, fuel, compression, timing. DOHC and SOHC do not interchange and the intake manifold isn't interchangeable. To make it work you'd need to swap the SOHC intake wiring harness onto the DOHC intake manifold so that you can drop the DOHC in place. It bolts in but the electronics are all off. And even then I'm not sure if you'd have a cam sprocket problem. On the later model Phase II's you often need to swap cams to interchange engines (but not always). To put it simply "the cam sprocket stays with the vehicle". Simple solution for all Phase II's in that you just swap the sprockets too...but in this case I don't know how interchangeable Phase I (DOHC) and Phase II (SOHC) cam sprockets are.

no problems, just make sure it went in smoothly, went in straight and is sitting straight now. Subaru rear main seals are notorious for leaking after replacement. They are by far the least likely to leak but hardest to set properly as well. If there's any doubt I'd do it again for those reasons. I'd be sure to use a SUbaru OEM seal for this as well.

i like EJ25's. i see folks buy them and then can't afford to fix them. info helps prevent that. that comment was meant to be a humerous way to try and make a point, not a comparison..i forgot the ....no one can tell what his modis operandi is when buying cars. some folks buy a car and the first thing that goes wrong they cuss, throw a fit, and talk about how horrible the company is. others, fix it it and keep trucking. what is this guy like? your comments on the EJ25 issues aren't correct. the Phase I EJ25 (he didn't clarify for sure what he has - nor is he still certain) definitely overheats before it runs low on coolant. i reply to a lot of posts - i don't always pull the "search" card. but in this case it does help quantify something that's hard to put a value on (hence our current disagreement). craigslists, USMB, ebay, Autotrader - bear out some things.

make sure it's not the parking brake that's seized? on seized ones i've been able to get them to swing up by bashing them with a hammer. WD-40 isn't good at all for something like this, you want PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Deep Creep, or another actual penetrant like them, they are worlds better than WD40. use lots of it and get it into that slide and rubber boots as much as possible. obviously avoid getting it in and around the axle/wheel bearing area below. that stuff will be bad mojo for wheel bearings. i'd probably have another used one on hand before attempting this. chance of something breaking if it's that bad. probably tons of folks on here have spare calipers lying around. post in the parts wanted forum.

bent valves is the most common symptom here, but everything else will be fine. you'll get new head gaskets out of the deal anyway, a big plus on the Phase I's.

I ordered Oxygen sensors for a 2001 (5/2000 mfg date) OBW H6 and the sensors I received are different than what is in the car. The part number is different and the connector is different. The part number Subaru shows and that I received is: 22690AA45C I didn't write down what mine is but it's not the same and has a different connector. Anyone know what I'm missing here?

Are you sure a warped rotor isn't just causing a vibration/wobble feel in the pedal? If it really is the ABS actuating - is the ABS light ever coming on? If so - the codes need to be read. It's really easy and only takes a few minutes. I don't like to just throw out possibilities since there are probably dozens but common issues with ABS is a sensor is compromised or a tone ring is bad. Have you had any other work done to the car related to this area - ball joints, tie rods, cv axles, cv boots, wheel bearings, struts, etc?

interesting. i've never spent much time in the trunk or noticed wires there that i remember. seems to me it would be something back there - antenna, defrost, rear lighting? we have the XT FSM's over on the subaruxt.com board - are you a member there yet? we have the FSM's posted over there and they show all the grounding points...well they show everything. well worth obtaining those.

no. you should read some more threads or preferably obtain an FSM if seals and gaskets confuse you. follow the procedures there. where do the sealant concerns come from? there isn't any gasket on any Subaru engine that requires sealant that i'm aware of. that goes for EA82, ER27, EG33, EJ22, EJ18, EJ25.....I never use any sealant on gaskets or seals in those engines. On occassion on older models i've used tack sealant on the water pump, but just to hold it in place, it's not necessary. it's often a good move on pan gaskets - like the older model oil and transmission pans. it wasn't required, but helps due to the pans usually not being in good condition on reinstall. that's probably why the newer ones i don't think even have a gasket - it's the sealant in a tube stuff.