idosubaru

crack, i was hoping you knew of one better with shipping. i'll have to check my last order, may have been something on there old gen that they didn't have in stock, hence the delay. i get the discounted rate too at the local dealer, i should go there but there's something nice about click, click, then a box on the front porch.

Need to verify whether all the underside grime is the ATF leaking or not. loosing ATF and really dirty underside - smells like....looks like...feels like...it probably is! might want to search for some 3AT information as i think they have some oddball vacuum and other oddities that allow them to loose fluid - apparently that's what the previous poster mentioned. the 3AT is an oddball and is completely different than all other later Subaru transmissions so many of us aren't that familiar with them. follow the fluid hoses on the drivers side right around the valve covers that go from the trans to the radiator. look for leaks there. or the radiator could be leaking - meaning just transmission fluid, not necessarily coolant. might have to pull it out if you can't tell or it's all dirty and wet (which would be a good indicator something is wrong). Check your front differential fluid level, hopefully it's not overfilled as there is a possibility of ATF to bleed into the front diff...well at least on 4EAT stuff, i'm not sure about the 3AT.

cool, glad it worked out for you.

that's about how long it's been since my last EA82T too so i might be forgetting something.

Buying a "cheap" motor that is a particularly problematic motor usually isn't a great move. That goes for anything, not just EJ25's. Good news is if you're installing new head gaskets then you really don't have much of a head gasket problem to worry about, just be sure to use Subaru head gaskets. as for your original question "how bad is the EJ25?": search this forum, other forums, or google: "EJ25" "headgasket" "EJ25 headgasket" and start reading. your question has no answer. in reality - you're talking about one person and one motor, that's not a large enough sample size to make any kind of prediction or suggestion at all as to what you'll experience one time. it comes down to statistics and how you make decisions, not the motor or opinions of others. the EJ25 has quirks, but it's still a decent motor and good fit for some people. you need to read, get a feel for what is a good fit for you. if you're cool with dodge neons you'll love the EJ25. if you value the reliability and consistency of the EJ22 you're less likely to like it. if you're one of those emotional folks that attaches to anecdotal experiences then you'll LOVE the EJ25 if it doesn't ever give you problems but hate it for life if it does. the Phase I (96-99 Foresters & 96-00 Legacy's) is substantially worse than the Phase II. Phase I's leave you stranded and are older, not as well maintained by now.

i just resealed an XT6 oil pump this morning with parts I got from thepartsbin, they seemed to be OEM brand in color and all. aren't the online subaru places outrageous at times too? one of them is $12.95 minimum...another is %10....quite high if you're ordering a couple seals. i would rather order from subaru but rockauto and thepartsbin ship much quicker. i have a shipment from subaru coming next week , wish i would have ordered it from rock auto!

Doubt this helps but I picked up a set of those - i think they came off a 2002 Impreza sedan. But since getting them I've wondered if there's a two different styles that look very similar. I don't pay much attention but it seems like there may be two styles that look like that.

I'd do whatever you need to in order to do the head gasket right. exhaust can be annoying, but it's not a big deal. all the exhausts i've ever done (EA82T included), i just unbolt the header from the head - so i'm kind of confused about that? I mean heck, you can remove the exhaust, even the rust belt out here I've done it, what a crap job! I'd use a fel-pro permatorque head gasket. they are by far the most proven gasket out there for EA stuff. if those with the 5-10 pounds extra torque that GD and myself use don't hold then something is seriously wrong with the motor. they dont' require a retorque like all the other gaskets. did you use those gaskets the first time? and if not - did you retorque them? all other gaskets are supposed to be retorqued (Subaru, Corteco, Beck Arnley at least all are) so did you do that? hope you get it figured out, that is annoying digging right back into a big job again.

i'm not sure how many you have dealt with but it's very possible (probable) that you just haven't ran across one that has a problem like i'm talking about. if 10% of them have problems like this, then it's likely most people aren't encountering it. i've owned 30 or so XT6's and i haven't actually had much of a problem with the 15-20 of those that were actually running and driving. but plenty of other folks have, so i'm aware that's it's an actual problem. we have pictures and details of the sucked in gaskets over at the XT forum. some folks up there have even come up with a pretty neat fix involving creating a metal insert inside of the suction port, preventing the gasket from getting sucked in. it seems more prevalent with the XT6 than EA82's. but i could be wrong on that.

no, i just bought one as part of a complete overhaul of an ER27. some ER27's (and I'd suspect EA82's) have notoriously bad TOD (tick of death) that keeps recurring. the suction side of the mickey mouse gasket repeatedly gets sucked into one of the ports of the oil pump. i'm suspecting that a new oil pump may alleviate those chronically plagued ones that can't be fixed by just resealing. actually i was fortunate enough to help with one this year. a friend (and member here) was working on another friends XT6 which had chronic repeating oil pump ticking resulting from the sucked in gasket like i said. i donated a new oil pump to the cause and so far it's not coming back.

EA82 oil pumps are nearly identical to XT6, same design just slightly different. This XT6 oil pump was bought new from Subaru and only has about 6,000 miles on it. The picture should show the little ball check valve that is located under/behind the oil filter. On this pump the metal around that ball is cracking/deforming or something. I don't have a good pump to compare to right now or I'd show a picture of both. Anyone seen this before? I guess this thing is scrap now?

awesome, easy fixes on memorial day weekend for you!

i don't think the shop can test anything, i actually asked this question not too long ago and no one replied saying that there was anyway to verify the parts were good or not. from my previous discussions with folks here, the hub needs to be replaced. like he just mentioned, let's make sure we're talking about the same thing. the hub is the center part with the 5 lugs on it that's pressed through the bearings which reside in the knuckle. some folks say "hub" in place of knuckle and in this case it would make things very confusing.

you mentioned "new, used hub and new bearings" - i'm not sure i'm seeing exactly what you did. if the hub is damaged it can ruin the bearings. i had the same thing happen, mine just lasted 5,000 miles instead of 3,000 :-\ i replaced the bearings and it failed again. next time i just installed a completely different used knuckle assembly. we'll see how long this one holds up

woah - fire engine red. yeah, you can't use those, you better send them to me. just kidding, i have three sets in boxes ready to go. slap those dual pot calipers up front and you're golden, really easy swap. the rears are much more annoying. you'd need backing plates or an entire hub assembly and parking brake cables. though i've heard they can be made to work.

i just wish i had pictures to accompany it!

i just clarified that - no backing plates for the fronts. rotors, calipers, and brackets only. there are *some* scenarios where calipers will swap to various brackets or you can swap pins...but that gets confusing and brackets are just scrap anyway, so they're cheap. easier and simpler to just get the entire set up from one vehicle. oh yeah, definitely. i've done it. my OBS has the same brakes as your 96 brighton - front singles, and drum rears. i upgraded to duals up front and they are nice even leaving the rears as drum. i read a lot about it before doing it just to make sure, that's how i came across the nasioc thread. i read of a bunch of other folks that did it and loved it as well. exaggerating, although it is insanely lengthy.

"dripping from behind oil pan, crossmember area, onto exhaust" doesn't tell us much of anything. it's like Subaru designed them to be annoying like that - just about everything that will/can leak can end up in that area (oil, ATF, coolant, etc). the engine config makes it such that all sorts of leaks will eventually lead to fluid build up and dripping there. it's so common it makes me want to run dual pipes straight back so my subaru's can freely mark their territory from the area you described without the stinking smoke :lol: so - first thing is to check the common power steering fluid leak. look at the reservoir where you add the fluid to the power steering pump. now, look from above it, down on top of the engine block. you might need a flashlight. if it's wet down there your reservoir oring is leaking. replace it. the AT has hard and rubber lines from the transmission to the radiator side cooling tank. follow all of those and look for a leak. good chance that hopefully one of those two easy things is where the leak is.

Verify where the leak is coming from - power steering or trans. The exhaust is rather long (think - entire length of car) so your info doesn't help much. Verify what is leaking and fix it. It's going to be hard for us to help you sight-unseen to fix it without any information at all. Power steering typically leaks at the oring just under the reservoir that holds the fluid. Easy and cheap fix. If you just replaced heads this is like tying your shoes. Trans typically leaks from the fluid hoses or rear seal. Again - another couple really easy fixes. Transmission fluid leak is

there are different cruise control set ups. seems like he just touched on that, so hopefully that helps. you'll obviously want everything coming from the same set up and be reading info/pinouts/diagrams/FSM's regarding the same set ups.

yeah i've done that job before as well with no help from equipment = rough. rear seals plain suck, there's a number of folks that have had problems getting them to reseal properly. was it leaking to begin with or why did you replace it?

the bias, MC, and proportioning makes zero/little real world difference. the folks on NASIOC argue and complain about it all the time. if you're interested in that discussion or what it means - check out their 543 pages of arguing about it over there, it's already been "covered". meanwhile, others are doing it with great results. in the real world - dual pot calipers are nice and upgrading to rear drums is nice as well. i've done it - all you need is brackets, rotors and calipers. it's really easy to upgrade front brakes. the only annoying part of the whole deal is bleeding, everything else is simple.

ed, i have a couple of the 2DIN size "inserts" that houses the 1DIN stereo and the cubbyhole / maybe a cigarette lighter. similar to what josh is talking about, i can send you one if you'd like.

yeah it's fairly straight forward and a torque converter should be really simple. drill, tap, and insert. don't just use the tap, make sure you drill the appropriate size hole first. the helicoil tool will have the appropriate size drill bit printed on the shaft.

they are much cheaper than that. if you searched their website or somewhere else, look around some more, they are usually way lower than that. i've never paid anywhere near that, even for 6 cylinder engines.