idosubaru

you need a PCV valve? the XT6 and most 1990's subaru's PCV valves are the same. are there Subaru dealers in your country you can order from? good chance the EA82 PCV valves are the same as most other newer ones, so they'll have them in stock.

so in the end it is a viscous EJ center diff right?

i've removed more trans and rear diffs than i know and i can say the rear diff job is straight forward and easy compared to a transmission. not even a comparison, you'll be fine. if anything, it's nice to have a helper since it is heavy enough to be awkward in odd positions. but even still i've always done them by myself. that being said - make sure there isn't an easier way than the FSM is showing, often times the FSM shows more steps than necessary. i'm not up on the EJ procedure from memory so i can't fill you in off the top of my head.

the good news is if it's just the outer joint clicking and the boot isn't cracked you have a LONG time before anything happens....except the voices in your head from the clicking. i've put 50,000 miles on a front clicking CV joint before. original subaru axles will last a very long time if you keep them out of rock and sand (i've destroyed them quickly that way too!). once they get really bad you'll get vibrations while driving straight, which will go away if you slap some grease in there by hand :lol: until it gets so bad that it's just clicking all the time. of course i don't recommend letting it get that bad, just letting you know i have lots of experience with how long axles can last.

wow, that is a very interesting way to do it. sounds like it'd be really annoying customizing the fittings to go from a standard vacuum hose to the a/c gauge fittings. whatever is in the a/c lines is going to end up in the gauges and engine. just a thought, probably not a big deal. i've had oil in cylinders foul my compression gauges.

all of that stuff is overkill. i've fixed tons of A/C systems on Subaru's. i'll tell you how i'd have it running perfectly in no time: replace the compressor with a used one for $50 or less. (i even have one i'd sell). Subaru compressors don't fail enough and the systems are easy enough to work on yourself, that it's not worth buying new in my opinion. if you have a good rebuilder, you can pursue that option as well. a friend of mine just had a subaru a/c compressor "rebuilt" for under $100. you could never expect that cheap, but i'd pay it if i had a reliable connection to do that. otherwise i'd trust used just as much as anything else (except new from Subaru, good luck on that one!) replace the orings on the compressor fittings and the schrader valves while the system is open. (the tool for replacing them in a charged system is really neat!) replace the drier. charge it with the ghetto cans at the auto parts store. you're done in no time, it didn't cost much, and it will last unlike the auto parts store hunk. you'll have a/c that easy. no need for all the tools, gauges, manuals, and such. this is coming from a guy who has commercial grade gauges, vacuum puller, and does all his own a/c. i've also done tons without any of that stuff too, so i'm speaking from lots of hands on experience not the "back seat".

i have a set of 97 impreza rear drums i could possibly sell. they are a complete rear drum/hub assembly with good low mileage bearings. you could swap in the entire hub and not have to worry about the hub/bearing issues. i can check condition and send pic's if you're interested.

cool, let me know how it turns out. like i said, i never tried it and don't know if it's applicable to automotive systems or subarus. i'm just passing along what he said. the good news is that i've never had a problem, even without doing anything, so if it helps at all you're one step ahead of me and i've never had a glitch. trying that "trick" or getting new dessicant i think would the best move.

there are two possible gear ratios, make sure it matches. don't bother worrying about year/models, just check it to be sure. rotate and count revolutions. there's 3.9, 4.11, and 4.44. rear differentials are REALLY easy to replace. did you say you did a transmission? rear diffs are cake compared to that. no special tools needed at all. each model,trans, engine, etc has slight variations but you can just unbolt the 4 bolts at the rear diff where the driveshaft attaches. then it's completely free from the diff, no need to mess with the rest of the driveshaft, pulling it from the trans or the exhaust in the way. i haven't done a legacy but in the past i've dropped the diff, leaving it still connected to the axles and then that gives enough room to work the axles off. on the old school diffs there were only 3 bolts holding the diff in place. so remove those and the 4 12mm driveshaft bolts and you're done except the axles. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or whatever your favorite penetrant is for those rusty driveshaft bolts. They're not all that tight, so spray them and they should come off. Make sure to use a good SIX POINT wrench on them, not a 12. If you have a torch, hit the nut real quick then bust it loose right away just for good measure.

with that kind of change to throw at an impreza i'd look at dealers and make sure it's all tuned up for her - timing belt and water pump if it's anywhere near the tbelt interval, tune up stuff, coolant flushed, etc. craigslist is another option.

Might want to look at Leg wagons? They sit higher and are easier to get in and out of than the lower imp's. not sure what she's looking for but the legacy's tend to be trimmed out better. roomy, quieter, more options, etc. imp's are fantastic though no doubt. 10K is easy to find zillions of imp's in that price range. heck you can get an H6 OBW VDC. imp's a great choice as you get the older EJ22 or the newer EJ25's - kind of a win-win of avoiding the worse Phase I DOHC EJ25.

yeah, that is odd and i've never done it or heard of someone doing it...or seen it when pulling old seals. so all of that probably means it's likely a mistake, i've seen a few in the FSM's.

looks like a healthy diagnosis to me.

yeah something is broke between the shifter and clutch. maybe the clutch fork or one of the springs clips ont he throw out bearing let loose? unless you can find a linkage/cable problem it sounds like a clutch job is needed. you sure the clutch cable didn't break? is it inside a sheating that might make it hard to see, or it's all moving fine at the bellhousing?

wow, if the cleaner worked i'd try some different gas (if you always use the same place), replace the fuel filter, and try some seafoam in the following tanks. wow - ECU reflashes, havent' heard much about those. interesting indeed, i'm utterly curious about what is being changed/updated.

pretty sure that's grease. no sealant on the seals. anaerobic sealant (many folks use RTV instead) on the rear mating surface.

A vacuum boils the water out of the system, removes air/contamination, etc. That being said, I've charged countless cars without pulling a vacuum. It's easy and works a very high percentage of the time (i'm still batting 1000). My friends Honda civic was blowing 42 degrees after replacing the compressor, that was about 5 years ago and he's still running it just fine. I even had a vacuum puller but he was too lazy too wait. It's really easy. Subaru's take about 2 cans when fully emptied. The ghetto way my HVAC licensed cousin said to do it was to pressurize through one side and keep the valve open on the other...thereby forcing some stuff out just by the pressure of the can. I don't ever do that though.

Yeah, just funny timing. The playing with the suspension may have brought the noise to your attention sooner, but it was coming either way. Are these the original Subaru axles and original boots? That's very odd for them to click...almost unheard of. I'd guess it's an aftermarket axle or the boot has been replaced previously.

maybe pull all the PCV hoses and make sure something isn't clogged? sounds like the crankcase is over-pressurized. i had an XT6 like that, it was so bad that oil was coming out from the bolts that hold the case halves together!!! i replaced a lot of stuff, though i never found out why. it ran and drove really well.

im' not following the details too well. if you're loosing coolant then you're loosing coolant. if you don't see it externally, it's leaking internally.

same - interchangeable.

could i have a #2 with more info please: vehicle, engine, mileage, etc? did you use a Subaru PCV or parts store? go with Subaru on this part if you didn't the first time. the rear mains are notorious for being difficult to seat properly. it's often recommended to not replace them unless they are wet. was it actually wet/leaking when you pulled the engine? they rarely leak. the wood block method and working your way around is not the way to do it. you want a piece of PVC, large socket, seal driver, or a few old seals to tap it in perfectly flush. also make sure the spring on the inner lip doesn't come out. and that it's seated the right depth and the crank isn't rusty/damaging the seal. you could have some blow by or something else, is the engine otherwise running well? any blue smoke ever?

okay, i wasn't sure if you had already done the oil pump before. now that you're saying you haven't. that's definitely the first place to start. a simple reseal - one gasket, one seal, and some sealant might be all you need. you're good with subarus, so at least this is a job i know you can do and the parts are cheap so hopefully it works out for you. if it returns, just let us know and we'll go from there. good luck!

the first step is to reseal the oil pump. as far as i know the EA82 and ER27 pumps are not interchangeable. if they are, the parts are different. the ER27 takes a pump to block gasket and a shaft seal. the EA82 pump to block gasket is different and it also takes an additional oring on the pump rotor that the ER27 does not have. but the bottom line is interchanging isn't necessary. the first step is always to reseal the oil pump, the pump to block gaskets frequently get sucked into the bores. we have pictures and some folks over on the subaruxt.com forum that have even devised a permanent solution to this problem. they've inserted metal sleeves into the bores to prevent the gasket from getting sucked in since some folks seem to have a recurring problem. recently someone had resealed pumps continue to bring about the TOD even with all new seals and gaskets. i sent them a new pump and so far it hasn't returned. my only guess to this issue is that the thin aluminum pump housing gets warped just enough to allow the gasket to not be fully held in place. a new pump *may* solve these recurring problems. this was the first attempt to solve one that i know of and so far it worked. so - if a reseal doesn't work, then you need a new pump or to entertain the permanent fix to keeping that gasket in place. personally i'd live with the TOD until you can get a replacement XT6 pump shipped to you. the TOD sounds horrific but won't hurt anything. i would avoid using the additives, if it helps it's only going to be temporary and could possibly cause long term issues. you want to address the problem, not the symptoms.

check the clutch cable and adjustment for sure. try starting and driving the car to see if it'll shift. you can start the car in gear. of course all disclaimers apply...i mean, find an open and safe area not crawling with liberals, surfers, tree huggers, reality stars, or emissions stands. anyway, try to get it started and driving in first and then see if you can reve match it to shift or get it out of gear. i once had an XT6 do this and it ended up needing a new clutch. this was before i ever replaced a clutch so i dont' know anything except the thing would not come out of gear at all. a shop replaced the clutch (not sure what all components) and it was fixed.