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EJ18 noninterference EJ22 non interference until 1997 EJ25 all interference

it will work but you're likely to have final drive issues. the legacy is probably a 4.44 (although you don't specific which models - OBW and GT's will have 4.44). the Impreza will be a 4.11. All you need to do though is make sure whatever trans you use, you get a matching rear diff.

thanks scott. i'll install a 1" block of i have rubbing axles. so the other guy didn't get the rear bolts for dropping the rear diff? just curious why that is, are they not necessary? being that i know nothing about lifts, it's better to keep that stuff tucked up under there for ground clearance if the axles can handle it right?

If your trans isn't the culprit then it's one or both of your axles. If you bought an aftermarket axle, then that would be where i'd start looking.

Tom, I'm installing essentially the same kit. I have a Legacy GT steering coupler i'm going to try first. I'll let you know how it goes, but it'll be a couple weeks before I get to mine so you might beat me to it. I see slight variances in your kit and mine, anyone know what that is? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=833316#post833316

I'm confused - it seems the description of parts here is different than in another EA82 SJR lift kit thread. In my thread the longest bolts are for dropping the rear diff. In this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99881&page=3 They are for the front cross member? So my kit came without the front cross member blocks/bolts and the other kit came without the long bolts for dropping the rear diff? Why is that? I don't mind fabricating extra pieces, but want to get right what I've got when I go to do it.

right on mike, i do agree with. it gives poor service too. if someone can get paid for more hours than they work, do they think that encourages high quality service and work? quite the opposite, the quicker they are the better. having worked for large companies, in manufacturing - the only real world solution is to control everything yourself, but that cant' happen in large corporations. if you owned a large business you'd understand the non-efficient necessities they put in place. i don't agree with it, maybe there's a better way, but it's one of those "necessary" evils sometimes to survice the complexities of large markets, infrastructures, etc. if anyone can do differently, they would suceed immensely at business. for instance, and this is only one example of many, if it was based on actual hours - then warranty work would cost a company inordinant sums of money - because people would abuse that. "oh the spark plugs were all rusted and it took me 50 hours". you are honest - but all people and employees are not. which brings us back to - "stupid rules come from stupid people". another system you're thinking of likely has all sorts of holes in it (or you'd start a revolution in industry if it didn't) that would get abused by people too - so for a company to survive they have to do something. i agree, but this has happened because people are dishonest and greedy. and that's unfortunate.

in general i agree with the sentiments about dealers. though anytime things are done on a "work order" basis and laborers are charged for hours, there's good and bad jobs. having worked in industries that do this, it's just the nature of trying to tame a huge beast. there's problems with paying "by the hour" too. it's just way more complicated than that from an organizational standpoint. when you're the laborer and get 3 hours for somethign and then run into problems diagnosing, rusted bolts, broken tools, or other parts break and knowing you'll 'get blamed', it's just a dynamic and inefficient problem all around. what happens sometimes is the "experienced" guys know which jobs to take (get paid more hours than it'll take) and the less experienced guys get the crap jobs.

reliability wise the EA82 is far nicer than the EA82T's. but with really lacking power. to be reliable a 20+ year old EA82 is going to need lots of help - resealed completely and done right. very rare to be worth it.

a friends 97 Impreza Auto EJ22 AWD is doing the same, i'd be interested to see what this is. hopefully it's something simple because the driven gears in the trans aren't going to be replaced by most folks (intensive, costly, or both).

some of my personal favorites are "anyone in the tri-state area", "the bay" area, by the interstate.. etc!

i agree 100% that EA82T's aren't worth getting into and you're headed in the right direction with a swap. but there's a chance your profuse oil leak is really simple. that would buy you time to get ready to scrap the piece of work for an engine swap. valve cover gaskets can dump oil instantly...as well as cam seals, crank seal, and oil pump seals. i had a brand new NAPA crank seal (forget the brand) that didn't seat for crap on an EA82 and ended up leaking profusely. got a Subaru seal and it seated perfectly. local guy had an Xt6 for sale due to massive oil leak. i told him it was one of the oil pump seals (seal or gasket). he replaced one (not both) and it still leaked. i told him to fix it right and he listed it on ebay instead. so i bought it for $500, replaced the $7 seal i told him too, it ran beautifully, pulled his custom headers for my car and sold it for $2,000. sometimes it's worth checking into something before giving up.

oh man, hope you snag it. we got hosed on our xt6 domain. snipers got it and want bank for it. we had to get a new domain and still have folks that can't find us. we got hosed by the company essentially going under though, we "paid" for it, but they never followed through properly.

that'll be 1999+. definitely not 98 or earlier. and looks like you can swap intake manifolds in this case, i forgot about that. did you see that?

$1,500 give or take $500. First thing - fix all the "little" and easy stuff - the headliner, wiper, blower fan. Multiple issues just start things off on the foot. When selling a car like this and wanting top dollar, time is your friend. You're not likely to find someone wanting an old school Subaru like this every week....but once or twice a year there's someone out there looking. Extend your for-sale time and that helps a lot with a car like this. It's unlikely to sell here, so get it out on autotrader or advertise it somehow.

they are interchangeable.

i would think your 99 outback has the wiring in place. if it was like a brighton or L then maybe not. but i don't know, i haven't done it, just passing along what i've read in forums.

awesome, nice hit getting it fixed. that's not quite right. the Subaru extended head gasket warranty campaign is for 100,000 miles and 8 or 10 years, so you sneaked in under both counts, just in time!

? that's odd. they are tight, but a mechanic should have done this like 100 times, i have and i'm not a mechanic. basic stuff, the "bump the starter" method works 100% of the time (just don't screw it up!)

highly unlikely to cause any problems. all subaru's do this, the design lends itself to oil dripping on the exhaust, almost doesn't matter where the leak is. 660 miles no big deal.

i already replied to one of your other threads, but apparently it was deleted.

Start it in gear, will it let you do that? I've done it on older Subaru's, but never a newer one. Bypass whatever you need to in order to let the starter turn the engine over. Make sure the ebrake and anything else (blocks, etc) are taken care of and use the starter to move the car. You can use the starter to load a car onto a trailer, i've done it. A good winch will probably be your friend to load it. Disconnecting the driveshaft and front two axles is one way to get it to move. They also make car "dollys", and I don't mean tow dolly's. They're like little wheeled "cups" for moving cars. Not sure how that would help you on a dirt road and 100 miles though.

i'd take any EJ engine over an EA82T. but if you're doing a custom engine swap, wiring, ECU and all, head gaskets are negligible anyway.

my daily driver XT6

im' not an expert at all and what i've learned is that A/C is not hard. replace any bad parts, they're all easy as pie to replace and the ones that aren't very rarely fail. replace any orings you can get to (the two on the compressor for sure) and the two schrader valves. pull a vacuum and charge it. if you can't pull a vacuum, just charge it and it'll work fine. if you're dealing with an internally exploded a/c compressor things get more interesting. but that is rare. there's enough existing A/C threads to probably fix your situation.