idosubaru

Yeah the EGR set up just goes from the intake to the back of the head on the engine, not the actual exhaust pipes. that's because EJ22's don't have piston slap, head gasket, and rod bearing problems. more EJ25's go to the grave at a young age, meaning less make it to the used market and the demand for those that do is high. this means nothing individually but in terms of the big picture, the high mileage reliability of the EJ22 is a step up from the EJ25.

that's up to you, personally i'd look for them all, to install a non-95 engine all you need the exhaust manifold, big deal. it's one part. you're going to be swapping brackets, hoses, removing an entire engine, disconnecting all sorts of clamps, bolts, wires, connectors...i personally don't see where one more part (the exhaust manifold) is a big deal! the exhaust has nothing to do with the EGR set up, EGR is all engine/intake related. 95 EJ22's = dual port exhaust. 96+ EJ22's = single port exhaust. the EJ25 is dual port (like 95 EJ22's). so for a 96 EJ22 you'll need the manifold to match. but it's a bolt on affair. like i said get a 95-98 with EGR. if it's a 96-98 get the exhaust manifold with it. it's that simple. auto/manual DOES NOT MATTER!!!! it will bolt right up.

oh cool, i drove past there yesterday. my wife works at Mason-Dixon. see you around, maybe!

Hydraulic actuated arm pushes on the throw out arm instead of a cable pulling it. Not sure of advantages. No broken cables, but that's certainly no reason to switch since that's not advantageous in the short term.

that's really bizarre. 1 aftermarket and 2 junk yard, you have bad luck or are damaging them somehow. i can't think of anything that would cause problems, they are capable of quite a bit of movement. i've used tons of junk yard axles with great results (because they are Subaru axles, at least the ones I've bought). you can swap sides (left to right) and see if the clicking moves just to make sure it is the axle.

cool, i haven't seen those yet, is that the one my Mon Gen and Ruby or over in Star City? I recently moved to Morgantown a couple years ago and work on University, maybe just up the street from you in Star City?

search for EJ22, EJ25, and/or SWAP. and maybe look in the USRM. ignore all the bolt hole commentary. here's answers to your questions and all you need to know: DOHC/SOHC means nothing here, you're dropping a SOHC EJ22 into a DOHC EJ25 vehicle. you want 95-98 EJ22 with EGR. if you get a 96-98 you'll need the single port exhaust manifold with it. 1997 and up EJ22's are interference engines, install a new timing belt kit (pulleys, belt, tensioner) with the new engine. most (if not all) EJ25's have EGR. if yours does, then you want an EGR equipped EJ22. nearly all 95 automatics have EGR. other years there's a small percentage that don't have EGR, so you need to verify.

yes, i've seen it happen before as well. if you get a no start again you could turn the car off then turn the key on (engine off) and listen for the fuel pump. it should cycle for one second. i've never had a problem so i haven't paid attention but you can hear it in older models, not sure about EJ's.

I think he means all EA82's during that time period. Will EA81 stuff work? I'm not sure about those. Those years are a good guide as long as it's not an EJ vehicle (Legacy/Impreza/SVX) or an XT6 (though the rears will work from an XT6 but not the fronts). Not sure about Justy's, but doubt you'll see one of those anyway!

sounds like you checked it over well. but make sure it's not something simple like valve cover gaskets. a lot of folks see oil dripping off the back and don't pay attention the fact that it runs and blows down there, not originates. but it sounds like you've done your homework and are hosed. sucks being a $10 part and hundreds in labor. i'm with nip, a new PCV valve might slow it down and make it tolerable? for the PCV valve it's best to go with Subaru on that. georgia is my favorite state, i'd live there if i wasn't from up here and i had family here. the people there are awesome.

another mogantonian? hmm? i wouldn't trust the sheetz station gauges (either one of them in morgantown). check after driving for awhile (heat = increase pressure). the tire pressure recommendation is affected by marketing, so it's not ideal for everyone. in general most car knowledgeable folks increase the tire pressure over the recommended values on the door jambs. i increase mine by 5 pounds per side, the car handles better and the tires wear better that way, and tons of other folks do that too. as for EJ25's. i would *assume* that Subaru has it figured out by now. but there's not much evidence to go on. it's not due to the weight, the EJ25's had/ve? more problems. more piston slap, head gasket issues, and more bottom end failures (rod bearings). whether they've corrected that issue is up for debate, there's zero empirical evidence to go by. issues typically take a while to show as folks get them repaired under warranty or the car is valuable enough to just let a mechanic do whatever needs to be done. "we" don't start seeing issues typically until the value of a car starts to make it less likely to repair. and keep in mind stuff like this isn't going to happen to every new car off the lot, so don't make a mountain out of the proverbial mole hill.

I think folks have said not to run it very long like that. Interested in seeing how this all turns out. Did this car sit for awhile or have any previous info associated with it?

you can search for more info because you'll need to transfer some items from the EJ25 to the EJ22. and yes the alternator will work fine.

actually ,they can be sporadic and dicey. i found that out the hard way, had a few do that. clogged pump/sock or a bad fuel pump. i would suspect the fuel pump myself. good luck, hope you can figure something out.

This is simple. If the engine was known good and ran fine, replace the head gaskets. I've replaced lots of head gaskets and if you caught it early like you said, you're fine. I would do it sooner rather than later though as these engines like to have lower engine problems that are probably encouraged by poor maintenance, letting this stuff go, and too many overheats. Adapting that non EGR engine to your EGR fitted vehicle isn't simple. The only simple way to do it is just to not install the EGR stuff at all (that's what i do since it's LESS reliable and a pain the backside anyway). But most states have emissions and you can't do that, I don't have that problem so I actually look for engines without EGR. But most folks don't want the check engine light or can't have it. In that case, get an EGR equipped motor. Adapting it is not straight forward and simple. There's not "bolt on" way to make it happen.

i would go with known success rather than reinventing the wheel. MWE and Subaru are known good axles. Actually for your vehicle being so new I'd just get a used axle, I bought one the other week for your vehicle for $35. Yours is new enough that finding a good axle with good boots is easy and cheap and no risk of crap after markets. Whether you get a good axle or not from those guys doesn't say anything about the company. No one says all aftermarkets suck. You have as good of a chance of getting a good axle as a bad one. And what do you expect from a salesman? "Yeah, our axles aren't that good, we have a lot of returns.":lol::lol:

sequence control is the ABS unit cycling all it's valves and goodies inside to let air through. i doubt you need to worry about sequence control. i've had the MC emptied before too and did fine just bleeding normally, never messing with the ABS unit. I think i may have cracked the individual lines open at the ABS unit to let any air out...but I dont' remember exactly.

great point MDJC. i didn't read the entire thread, it was kind of verbose. so i missed any talk of axles. if you have axles problems, that could easily be your issue. if the axles were replaced that is an important item to check. best bet is to avoid any aftermarket axles and use Subaru or MWE only. search/read here if you're wondering why. it's covered over and over good luck and maybe it's something less ominous!

EA82 = EA82 doesn't matter whether it's auto/manual or 4WD/FWD the only thing that matters is turbo/non-turbo. that would have to be the same. if you're swapping used axles, i've found that these 80's axles hardly last a year, often breaking boots in a matter of weeks/months. the rubber boots are just old and dry rotted. hopefully you have better luck than i have.

not true. it's a bolt in and plug and play affair. remove EJ25 - install EJ22. no need to swap any wiring or the ECU.

i guess it depends on your location and finding parts, but i'd have no problem locating a good used transmission around here. i'd opt for a used unit. keep your tires matching, rotated properly and change your fluids and you shoudln't have future problems. the VC's rarely fail.

+1 for cars101. for a few folks there may be advantages or personal preference for the old gen stuff, but it often comes down to economics. old stuff is inexpensive. new stuff is nicer in general. better trim more options, ABS, 5 lug, air bags, safer, and the market sustains more reliable EJ stuff for sale IMO. it's easier to find an EJ22 that will be trouble free for the next 5 years IMO as compared to EA82's. i think there's some misinformation in this thread: The Phase II EJ22 didn't start until 1999 MY, maybe there's a few in 98, but I think they're mostly 99+. "interference" EJ22's did not "start" with the Phase II model. EJ22 went interference in 1997, but it's still consider a Phase I.

you may have removed 2 bolts and the other was missing.

don't think so. the loyale will be EA82 - the 85 is an EA81 right? they don't interchange.

it won't need an alignment. you are right, replacing struts, springs, wheel/tire combo's will effect alignment, but it's minuscule. not counting the extremes - like shooting for a 5" lift!!! someone recently mentioned...like just in the past week, that if that bolt is off by a bit it won't matter enough for the average driver to worry about. which is good to know since i'm not well versed in alignment/suspension stuff, though i've never experienced any tire wear/alignment issues. years ago someone on another board that works in the tire business and does alignments spoke about them. in short he said they are rarely needed and essentially a waste of money, particularly to pay for every time you buy tires is silly. since taking his advice i've never gotten an alignment in over a decade and have never experienced uneven tire wear. and this in cars that i've off roaded, wrecked, repaired, replaced all sorts of suspension and steering components on, 45,000+ miles in a year...and still no uneven tire wear. with Subaru's you have to rotate the tires fairly regularly anyway so unever wear should show up quickly. i've replaced struts, control arms, ball joints, hubs, tie rods, power steering racks...all sorts of stuff that should "require" an alignment and i've never needed one yet. well..until last year when i removed a bunch of stuff and forgot to mark that bolt! that was the first alignment i've paid for in a really long time. if someone is anal (like dying to argue with advice above) or don't mind spending the money, and like the idea of being done with it and not worrying about it then it certainly doesn't hurt and is a good idea.