idosubaru

no.

wiper controller is shot maybe draining all could reset it?

swap some heated seats in that mojo!!!!

great, thanks, that is indeed good to know that it's easy at least. makes you wonder what those dudes were doing in there the first time?: "hhmmm...where's that dern fuel fil'er, these newfangled cars, who knows where they put 'em. I wish I had my old V8 large block carbed 70's......"

yep, what car, mileage, what motor, any modifications or recent issues/work? sounds like you may have the wrong replacement switch, it's calibrated improperly or the gauge is bad. i doubt you actually *have* high psi.

i was wondering about that, because that's what i thought too. but how are they wider? seems like they are, but at the same time the transmissions, axles, and hubs are all interchangeable. guess the body is just a bit wider somehow?

AH HA! thanks! so if i install my GT bumper on my LSi, then I use the GT grill with it? excellent, good to know. i just installed your pulley today - the belts you sent me worked - although the alt belt was REALLY tight to get on. i might try to get one 1/2" or 1" longer. thanks for the extra 50 hp!

well, not that this is related at all, but i thought huck said his 93 FWD impreza EJ18 didn't have it? maybe the extra weight was too much for the EJ18? pardon the tangent.

i don't think so, but only because i've never known impreza and legacy body parts to swap. none of the other body panels swap, so i doubt the bumpers do. unless someone knows for sure probably a good idea to get the entire bumper assembly, not just the cover, if you can. at least they'd be the easiest to fit if it did require some massaging.

i haven't done a Phase II but I think folks have said they are easier to do in the car than the Phase I's.

thanks p. i have a bunch of hubs lying around I can compare to for depth. i have to pick the seal up tomorrow from the parts store i'll see if they have anything close to that size. glad to hear it's easy, this one was a bear to get out too.

if you have the time, it's worth a shot to pull the heads and have a look. if the pistons/cylinder walls look damaged then i'd pass. if it just needs a basic head job (and a couple valves), then that's not that big of an expense. i'd rather have yours repaired than an EJ25 with original headgaskets. although 212,000 miles is a lot for a motor that has a good reputation for loosing rod bearings. you'll need Phase II EJ22's and it's not quite as simple as the earlier stuff. fewer folks have done it so there's far less info about it. My memory is vague but I think you need to swap the cam sprockets to make it work. The Phase II EJ22's I believe started in 1999. Thing is they were dwindling significantly in useage by then so they aren't necessarily all that easier to find but they are a better motor in terms of fewer headgasket, piston slap, and rod bearing issues. might want to price it out and see where you're at - assume machine shop work for heads, couple hundred, and parts. compare that to the cost of an EJ22 with new timing components and see where you're at.

NICE HIT! good call. how many of the old gen had hill holders anyway?

question: is it possible to seat the seal "too far", it looks like it is since there is space between the bearing and the seal. if so, how do you know when you got it? thanks Porcthepictureman. my sockets won't be big enough and I don't have one of those oil filter wrenches. this is for a friend and i'm hoping to get him his car back on the road tomorrow.....anything else I could use to seat this? apparently maybe an old oil filter may work if i can keep it from loosing oil and smashing to pieces!!!!

that's pimp you figured it out so easily! since the H6 is a bit of a rarity, could you fill in some details? like how long did it take to remove the pump assembly and any tricks? is there any indication on what "caused" this? age, someone was in there before, dried gasket, etc?

yeah, i think you need to make sure the injectors are operating properly. have you tried spraying carb spray/check for vacuum leaks? distributor/crank angle sensor (inside disty) has caused hard to diagnose problems for me in the past. have you swapped that?

correct - 1995 is non interference. that also means it's the older (and better) style tensioner pulley. those ENTIRE kits are only $80 or so on ebay. that's for the belt, all new pulleys, and brand new tensioner. killer deal, i buy them all the time. remove the timing belt cover, just the drivers side. don't need to take anything else off, just a couple 10mm bolts. remove that and watch the belt while it's running. you should be able to see it flopping around. if not, remove the center cover as well and run it like that when it's apt (cold?) to make noise. again, you should see it flopping around. that's easy to do as well. if you want to go cheap, technically you only need the plunger, but i'd be replacing everything. good luck!

yep, you're good to go with the 15" wheels. as a side note, that forester will have the same calipers as the OBW. there are a few bracket styles, but the calipers are all the same.

i have two semi-non-serious comments: don't do that again! swap to discs.

All the body panels will interchange. Like he said, the grills may differ based on body style. Not sure which of those are interchangeable but LSi and GT are not...well at least not between the 96 LSi and 97 GT I have. Look VERY similar, I would have sworn they interchange, but slightly different like he said.

I've done hundreds of seals, but never a front wheel bearing seal. I'm just replacing the one seal that sits against the axle. Analyze what I'm going to do: Smear some extra grease in there (I wiped a bunch out) and knock the new seal in with a large socket. How's that sound?

Morgan - most likely it's the timing belt tensioner. They do exactly what you're saying. Ironically enough I just had this happen on my 1997 Impreza OBS about a month ago on the original tensioner. These newer style tensioner (what yours most likely has, but it could have the old style) - the newer ones actually aren't as reliable as the older style. INTERFERENCE ENGINE - i would fix this immediately, at least the belt needs to be replaced anyway (60,000 mile belt and yours could even be well over 10 years old). the ebay kits are the way to go, they have the entire tensioner, belt, and all new pulleys as well. i promise at least one, if not all of your pulleys are noisey and not smooth. definitely the toothed idler will be rough. replacing them all is the best bet and ebay is the only reasonably affordable way to do that.

this doesn't sound like typical VC, but at such low mileage and a young car nothing is adding up to this point. i third the vote for a dealer inspection since this doesn't sound normal. are you saying it's exhibiting issues while driving straight? If you can do it yourself you might consider swapping the other axle (with the used one you just removed, since you know it wasn't the cause), just to see if the other axle has issues.

The 2008 models have an AUX input under the center console lid. Do any other 2000+ models have an AUX input?

running in FWD is not dangerous. i've done it and know tons of other folks that have as well. if you need to, do it and don't sweat it. subaru's aren't bad to work on and will need little work if maintained well. anything new seems much harder, that's normal (learning curve). if the bolt is stripped that's probably because it's rusty/seized, that's not a "subaru" problem, but a northeast problem. i hate rusty bolts. hopefully a few more miles will free it up.