idosubaru

i have some XT ECU's, but not sure what years. i think i have a 88+ NA, but not positive. i went through this last summer and don't recall what all i have. i'll be helping a friend with his car tomorrow, if i remember i'll try and snag my XT ECU's and post part numbers. if i have one you can just try and send it back, buy it from me, use it while you look for another, whatever you want to do.

compare 1989 XT and 1989 Turbo wiring? i don't recall seeing a pin like that on my XT Turbo, but maybe I missed it.

Probably needs a valve adjustment, that's every 100k maintenance and most folks never do it. Are you sure the tick is valve train or oil related? If so, the oil pump backing plate screws might be loose. The tensioner could be bad too, they start ticking when the loose their tension and is a bit deceptive if you've never heard it before.

Hope you post back what you find out. If you have a pin number or details on this boost switch, that would be AWESOME. I think I swapped an entire NA manifold so I won't have the boost switch connector unless it's not part of the intake wiring manifold. Maybe it's that joker on the p/s strut tower? Have you tried an N/A ECU, I think that's what I have now. I believe the 87 wiring was really close between turbo/non-turbo XT's. Have you checked the 89's?

i'm not recommending 20w50 nor did i think he would try it, someone concerned with 10w40 probably starts shaking when they're within 15 feet of 20w50 labels:lol:. i've never noticed a difference in gas mileage with oil or synthetic fluids. that being said, i only pay attention to highway mileage as it's the most consistent indicator for me and i drive a lot. under straight highway conditions 20w50 doesn't look much different than lower weights. of course when it's cold it looks like glue! so i can imagine with more cold start and running that could change things.

speaking of switching, you might already mean this - but you could switch sides since they're identical left to right and see if the vibration "moves", although it seems like you're fairly sure it's the axle anyway. good luck.

yes, depending where you put it! for real - no. is there a reason you're asking? be prepared for an oil debate, folks like to spend pages and pages on all sorts of oil idiosyncrasies. frankly the "weight" motor oil you use isn't nearly as important as making sure it never runs low (leaks) and is changed frequently (mileage or time based). whether you use 5w30 or 20w50 or anything in between won't frankly show much functional difference to the average user over the life of the vehicle. if you don't have an owners manual, order one off ebay or post for one in the parts wanted forum here. that will list lots of info like this that will be helpful in the future. good luck!

Gloyale, I did something similar with my 1987.5 XT Turbo (castrated to NA EA82). I have been having similar problems. I keep finding a glitch here or there, but it's still not running well. Mine was similar, idle well, rev fine but definitely lacking some serious power, i could get it to move, but not drivable. I retained NA cams on mine though, so that's not causing it for me. Though I have no reason to think this, I would think an NA EA82 would be drivable on turbo cams. I'm sure you know more about this than I. 1987-ish vehicles can be annoying. There were some quirky differences between 86/87 and 87/88 years. At least for the XT's and some other EA82 stuff. Verify the year/EA82 style of the ECU? I assume you checked fuel, spark, timing, disty is lined up properly, etc? I really don't know what to think, but i'll be trying to do something with it later this summer. (like EJ swap!!?!???)

you installed the spring pin? axle nut is REALLY tight? no, there is no break in period for an axle. don't want to jump the gun and trash a good axle but there's a good chance the axle is junk because you bought an after market axle, right? spend some time reading here and you'll find after market axles suck. after having my own expeditions with aftermarket axles i now only use Subaru or MWE axles. i recommend you doing the same if it turns out this axle is bad.

welcome to the USMB! i've spent some time in Santiago and my wife worked there for 2.5 years. one Subaru dealer downtown was within walking distance of her place, we'd walk by it when walking around town from her place! i was neat to see what they had!

read some info here and the endwrench article. i had zero problems doing my first one with my "special" set of sears craftsmen tools! it wasn't hard at all.

the steering rack boots might be loose or old. when the rack boots go bad or come out, degrade, etc, the entire rack has some play and it will cause exactly what you're talking about. this usually happens on like 20 year old cars though, like 80's stuff, not a 2003. althouh if the rubber got contaminated from a fluid leak somewhere it can degrade the rubber much faster. of course tie-rod ends are just about the most dangerous thing to loose on your car so they should be inspected as well. funny thing our new Outback...hmm...02 or 03 H6 does the same thing. i hadn't really thought much about it, but glad you posted, i'll check the steering rack boots on mine. i bet our problems are the same if we can find them. even though there's an H6/H4 difference the racks are probably identical.

the 99 bellhousing bolt pattern is different, but it can work. you just won't use all the holes, just use the ones that line up. i think that means you'll have only one nut/bolt holding the starter in place instead of two unless you make the second fitment point. everything else will be simple. buying a donor car is much simpler than piecing this together. make sure the clutch components all come from the type of clutch you want - hydraulic or cable clutch. the higher end cars got hydraulic clutches starting the mid 90's like GT's and others.

the one in the picture is a 90's OBS.

awesome! how much do you want for your old rims?!

Anyone know anything about a 97 4 runner timing belt? My friend bought one with 60,000 miles on it years ago. It now as 250,000 and he's never changed the belt! Anyway, wondering how hard it is and if there's any special things to consider. I've pointed him to the online ebay kits.

are you looking for a set here or recommendations for a place to get them? not too often you'll see tires for sale here. if you are looking for just tires, post your location or at least the state you're in. if you're looking for cheap shipping 4 tires may rule out possibilities. typically you can tape two tires together and slap a label on them though if you find any, no need to actually "box" them. tirerack.com is an online vendor as well, i've ordered from them before. for an 06 forester i wouldn't try and save a buck on tires by getting something cheap or old/warn used tires. particularly if you live in an area that gets any snow. saving a $100 doesn't make sense on a $15,000 vehicle.

hhmmmm, so the housing should be fine? i'm a bit hesitant to keep it now with two bearing failures. so the hub gets damaged, not the housing?

yeah the exhaust has nothing to do with whether it's interference or not. all 1995's are dual ports (and non interference). all 1997 and up EJ22's (actually all 97+ Subaru engines) are interference.

no, i dropped the housing and Subaru bearings off at a shop. they do all of the machine shop work for the local Subaru dealer. there are zillions of Subaru's around here and I asked if they were familiar with them and they said they were. i mentioned packing them with appropriate grease and installing the bearings, they seemed well versed. this is at least the second set that failed. they were making noise when i got the car. the new bearings i installed made noise almost immediately. i'm ready to move on, not dump more money into this housing. plus i have a known good housing sitting here at my house or can buy one super cheap so the gamble isn't worth it.

yeah that stock size is fine. there are clearance issues with stock 06 forester turbo wheels/tires. 16" wheels still, but they have just a tad different tire size (i forget what it is). they rub in the rear of a stock OBS of your vintage. i bought a set for my XT6 and tried them out on my OBS. they also rub front XT6 air struts, though stock WRX size you're talking about fits fine, but that was easily remedied by just bending the dust shield for the air bags a tiny amount.

yeah, it'll probably go away. lots of information on here about pulling codes and clearing them. the harness is just above the gas pedal behind the dash, easily accessible. just look up info on here for how to read and clear codes. when i first started with ABS i searched here and found all i needed to know. i'd personally want to know which code it's throwing, it might point to a warn sensor and the first one to need replacing in the future. bad tires are dangerous in the snow normally and even worse with ABS. i've driven cars that could not physically stop in snow because of bad tires and ABS. it is a scarry predicament to be in when you're sliding down hill towards a stopped car and it's physically impossible for you to stop due to the grade of the road. horrible mix in bad weather. your bad tires were probably flipping out the ABS more than the e-brake.

95 is not interference 97 is interference other than that, i'm not sure of any tell tale signs, but it would be a good thing to know for the 96/97 years to be sure.

i already have a hub at my place and that is probably what will happen. but my friend 600 miles away was intent on replacing the bearing for me...so I'm trying to help him out and make sure we're attacking it right. for future reference though - the housing is what needs replaced, it gets warped or the hub? in the future - if i ever want to replace bearings i want to make sure i'm starting with a good housing....hub, or both?

my rear wheel bearings went out on my FWD 1996 Legacy LSi. I left the car in TN, swapped cars, and a friend is fixing it for me (he offered). the new bearing failed so what do i need to replace - the hub or the housing or both? i think he ordered just the hub, not the housing. but i've never actually done a rear bearing so i'm not sure how it works and what parts actually come in contact with the bearing.