idosubaru

racks are easy. i'd bet just about any steering rack would work, Subaru made very few changes to racks. i'm about 90% sure that even EA82 and EJ racks are interchangeable. there are probably small differences in the ratio of the rack from lower end to higher end stuff. very small difference, but if you're concerned just make sure you get like a GT or OBW, or RS steering rack.

next time you might want to give some more info. vehicle, engine, etc. you did good though, just attach known areas first, particularly if they're easy and get those out of the way. keep those fingers crossed.

that really doesn't mean anything. how old, how many miles, what brand, etc? ABS isn't for everyone i will admit, i complain about it too - but it does work quite well regardless of all the heavily biased replies you're seeing here. there are plenty of 1997 soobs with excellent working ABS, yours has a problem. i have a 1997 impreza OBS and just bought a friend a 1997 Legacy, the ABS works great in both of them. i HATED ABS in the impreza until i got new tires. the tires were good tires with lots of tread left, i suspect they were just dry or the rubber was compromised for some reason. were you having problem in the snow, ice, or rain? were you on flat or steep grade?

what nipper said. the in the pan "filter" isn't even a filter, it's a screen so don't bother ever replacing it. good news for once huh!?!?

come to think of it, it would almost be a fun experiment, get some sprockets and chain and give it a whirl. you'd have to fabricate a front metal cover and have oil supply for the chain from the pump. water pump would be seriously in the way. if the system was closed, which it would have to be you wouldn't have to worry about cam/crank seal leaking any more!

i'm with you there, i didn't realize the chains needed lubricant either until i just got this H6 with a timing chain.

no, there is something else wrong. most likely the tires are not great. they could be cheap tires or just old, time doesn't do good things to the rubber compounds. was the system actuating, like pulsating or didn't do anything?

hop in bed next time and wake up with a fresh head! you'd rather spend hundreds (or thousands?) of hours converting it than 15 minutes doing a timing belt job???:confused::confused: if you could even find someone willing, it might cost about $20,000 for something like that. It's all kind of silly. If you're that worried about it, just run without covers and the timing belt job takes 15 minutes. how many miles are you putting on your EA82 that you can't change the timing belt every now and again?

hop in bed next time and wake up with a fresh head! the easy solution that is somewhat reminiscent of a ridiculous project like this would be to install an EA81. it would even be more reliable - no chain or belt. and very cheap. it's possible if you have thousands of hours or $30,000 to pay someone...if you could even find someone that nuts. It's all kind of silly. If you're that worried about it, just run without covers and the timing belt job takes 15 minutes. how many miles are you putting on your EA82 that you can't change the timing belt every now and again?

95-97 EJ22 with EGR. if it's a 96/97 you'll need the part of the exhaust that bolts to the engine too, that's it. A 98 will work but the bellhousing bolts are different. that can be addressed though, read on here at USMB. Available in some impreza's and Legacy's (brighton/L models). All of this is covered here.

get the ebay timing belt kits. you can read all about it on here with some searching. you didn't mention mileage but the pulleys are lacking grease after 10 years usually.

the transmissions are identical, but the bellhousings will be different. it still works and stuff, but you'll notice the bolt pattern is different. the 4 existing holes will still line up, use those, but you'll only have one holding the starter in place. easy to work around, either make another point or just use the one.

waiting to replace the sensor didn't cause all of those others. after checking nip's comment, have the codes read next time the check engine light comes on. most likely those were all old codes and only one or two...or none, are even relevant now.

FWD = one wheel drive and 4WD really only = 2WD unless their are limited slip type systems involved that's the way it works as he just mentioned.

pretty sure all 2002's are EJ25, so that won't work. there were also some OBS design changes in 02 as well, so some things might be off. you can check cars101.com to find when engine/body style changes took place.

no need for the interior to come out, just pull the passengers side seat and start there. actually - over on the subaruxt.com forum there are photo's of actual wiring issues like this. might want to check those out, probably a good place to check first on yours if that's the direction you want to go. they need to clear the codes and see which come back.

lots of info already on here about this. you can search and check it out. i would have the fluid changed as well.

one engine gets bought and you think someone is buying them all? i'm confused? $450, wow! can't you find a rusted out heap with a blown trans or wrecked for cheap?

Are they familiar with older Subaru's? They might "say" they checked the belts and it would look right based on how all the newer subaru's of the past almost 2 decades have been. But for an older XT, it would be wrong. They need to know that the cams are aligned 180 degrees out of time with each other, not the same like all the newer cars. Do they know that for sure about the EA82 engines? Also - those codes are probably not legitimate. They need to clear them all then check the codes and see which ones come back. Next, they need to do a basic spray test. Just squirt some fluid around the engine and check for leaks. Next - is the distributor lined up properly and the wires installed int he right spot. With the engine having been apart multiple times they have to make sure the distributor is lined up right and the wires are installed at hte correct spots. Easy to screw that up. Next - how old is the fuel? Have they tested for fuel, spark and compression? Lots of things to double check here. If it ends up being corrossion of the wires it's probably under the passengers side seat, so at least it's not hard to get to and check. We have an XT specific site too - subaruxt.com/forum, hope to see you over there.

Correct - there is missing information in this thread. We are not saying "replace the water pump with every timing belt". Noone says that, except in the case of hte 105,000 mile interval belts. We are saying it should be replaced at some point. Every other belt or 10 years is a good rough estimate. Remember everything is a curve...there's no magic number where things fail. Percentages go up as time/mileage increases....it's up to you to choose what kind of percentages and risk to live at. In general every 120,000 or 105,000 miles isn't very expensive for what you get, a very reliable engine. I generally wouldn't trust a 10 year old water pump or expect one to make 200,000. They can, but not worth the risk. And yes, water pumps fail. EJ engines seem to have fewer failures than EA. Could be just age but they seem like a better design as far as the pump alone goes.

If it was the wires most likely you'd have a Check Engine light with a cylinder misfire code. Probably not the wires, unless the CEL is on. If it's most noticeable at idle I'd start with what Nipper said - clean the IAC. Very often they get dirty and cause idle problems, very common issue. And it doesn't cost anything except a can of cleaner of some sort. I'd replace the PCV valve too. OEM is best. I've seen brand new after market wires cause issues right out of the box. NGK's seem good, but there's no definitive info on whether they are indeed identical or not to OEM Subaru.

I'll be interested to hear what happens here as well. That is interesting about the dual exhaust with bypass valves. I would think a standard better flowing exhaust would do well on this vehicle. If bypass valve style mufflers added performance then surely all the high end performance folks would be running them, but that is not the case. I've had gains replacing mufflers before, particularly the pathetically designed Subaru styles, with straight through mufflers. I've had great experience with Dynomax mufflers and will stick with them. Simple, straight through exhaust and the ones i've purchased sounded good. Not loud, just a good tone. Haven't done it to any newer subaru's though, but the older ones i've done gained a few highway mpg's.

yeah, just replace the entire contraption if you're talking about the tensioner. you can pull it out and just see if it's a regular bolt though, it's got to come off to replace it anyway. pull it off and have a look. thread a nut on it if you have to.

key info: is the AT light flashing on start up? has the fluid been changed since installing the new trans? i would never install a new motor/trans and just leave the original fluid in it. one of the earlier auto trans had a specific recall involving an inline filter, is this yours? what was the reason for the replacement/rebuild?

wonder no longer, yes they're interchangeable. 4EAT = 4EAT. as long as you don't cross years when major things changed, they will interchange very easily. of course the algorithms will be different to match the vehicle characteristics.