idosubaru

it's pointless to even ask someone who's done this swap. are you doing it yourself or paying someone else? after that HUGE financial question there's still the problem of getting all the parts. this isn't wal-mart. depends what mileage, condition, how old, are you swapping the trans too, the yards you find, a wrecked car you buy, go to auctions, find a private seller, do you have a dealer license or know someone with one....??????? you're essentially talking a couple grand. check out the going rate for used EZ30's, that will by far be the largest expense. if you're doing a manual trans swap at the same time best bet is the complete vehicle.

it's pointless to even ask someone who's done this swap. are you doing it yourself or paying someone else? after that HUGE financial question there's still the problem of getting all the parts. this isn't wal-mart. depends what mileage, condition, how old, are you swapping the trans too, the yards you find, a wrecked car you buy, go to auctions, find a private seller, do you have a dealer license or know someone with one....??????? check out the going rate for used EZ30's, that will by far be the largest expense. if you're doing a manual trans swap at the same time best bet is the complete vehicle.

awesome, i'd be down. where you at, maybe i'll fly there!!?? you could have Subaru do the t-belt and somewhere else do the axle. axles are easy, any place can do those. or pay me the airfare to come do the axle! if you have a specific reason like "hey these axles are the bomb (MWE's), they're way better than aftermarkets". rather than "i tried to save $13 just to be a pain in the #!$$$##", shops are usually very receptive and understanding to that. frankly they seem totally down with helping someone that actually knows something about cars and wants quality parts rather than just trying to save a couple dollars.

there's a recent thread about this, i'd read through it. it references maybe NASIOC and/or the trans shop that has bad comments about what this does to innards.

your title says "split boot", but you never mentioned actual "Split boots". i'm assuming you know not to use those since you didn't mention them. just a coincidence that you titled it as such? personally i buy used axles or new from MWE. used they're $35 all over the place around me for any 2001+ subaru axle. simpler, quicker, and it's easy to find one with boots in great condition being that new. call MWE if you want new - i've paid $90 or so a piece for their axles, but never bought EJ's yet (they're too easy to find used in great shape for cheap still). doing the boot is ideal, it's a good axle. but boots are messy and irritating to do yourself. that's why i replace the entire axle. 2005 - guess it's out of warranty? that sucks, that's young for a boot to go.

if he found the proper pinouts he can also "install" the EGR inputs into the nonEGR intake or to the body side harness, or to the ECU as well. if you're comfortable with electrical stuff like that it would be the simpler way to go.

depending why it fried, some folks have had success opening it up and just replacing the bad resistor/transistor. apparently in some cases it's easy to find and fix. the part costs about 40 cents or something. i know for a fact that XT6 auto and manual ECU's are interchangeable. i've done it. part numbers are not efficient to deduce all possible interchangeable parts. they tell you *some* that will work, but often only %25 or some low percentage of your actual options.

all of the EJ's i've had are accurate and about the same. i can predict the gas mileage by the gauge on my legacy and impreza that i'm currently driving. 60 miles per quarter tank approx 22mpg 70 miles per quarter tank approx 25 80 miles per quarter tank approx 28 100 miles approx 32 what is annoying is the impreza doesn't have a "low-fuel" light.

until your car takes a sudden gas mileage drop. like mine did on the way back from South Carolina. ran out of gas way too soon, got 20 highway mpg...maybe less and was stuck on the side of the interstate. luckily someone i knew was only a few minutes behind me and brought gas, otherwise that would have really sucked walking to the gas station.

15.9 gallons. If this is the first time you filled it up, dont' worry about it. It may be an artifact from sitting. If it does it again then your sending unit it off, gauge is bad, or the filler tube/vent is bad.

yeah that's been discussed before with links to products (cable and software) to facillitate that. search for OBDII i guess or laptop or lap-top? or being standardized (OBDII) this will come up quickly in google.

you mean to recharge, diagnosis, or something else?

automatics don't have flywheels. what you're seeing is the flexplate and the torque converter. definitely not a big deal at all, there's no worries at all. im not even sure all vehicles have them, i've seen so many where you can see those components spinning that it's hard to imagine they were all removed or fell off. i've never even considered replacing or installing them and never will.

it was probably removed during a clutch job. my guess is the clutch has been replaced? they get easily bent while moving an engine around and get removed. i would just get a used one and the bolts will be standard fare metric 1.25 pitch, just figure out the diameter. post in the parts wanted forum, someone will have one. actually...i probably do but i don't have time.

Highly unlikely Subaru will do anything about it. But nice to document it I guess just in case. Subaru will call that amount "normal" and with no overheating or signs of loss anywhere they won't want to put any time in it. There's nothing for them to find, some tend to loose more than others for some reason.

the idle isn't really "set" like on old cars. it should never need adjusted. on most subaru's since the 80's there some kind of solenoid/valve controlling the idle. i've never had to mess with the one on my OBS so i can't give specifics. but usually idle issues are solved by just cleaning out that valve (Idle Air Control Valve they are often called), or replacing it with a known good one.

if you want to keep the trans will, i'd avoid any concoctions. if you need proof read the excellent read from a trans shop about subaru's that have run "mixes" like that. they help short term and do bad mojo to various internal parts over the longer haul. the thread detailing that has excellent info. there's no knowing why it really came out. could be torque bind (very common and they may not know it could be done in car), lost a gear, clutch, throw out bearing, lost reverse, bearing, diff grinding, who knows. and who knows the condition of the trans overall even apart from whatever made it "fail". will knows what is wrong and that the trans is other wise good.

Dude Kaz - nice work! yeah, i read through it all, that's awesome. thanks for sharing, that's excellent work and info there.

overheating = really bad. track down the leak now. there's no way for us to tell you where it's loosing coolant, we can't see it. overheat too often and you're going to ruin the engine, so get to that first. check engine light - read the code and let us know what it is. as for racing, that's just not what this car is made for. you'd be much better off just recognizing it for what it can do...which is give you reliable and inexpensive transportation, than trying to make it do something it can't. the idea you need to one-up your friend and beat him is a good one to let go of. who cares? move on from the idea that faster, bigger, better is fun, it's not one that leads to success in life. spend hundreds of dollars on exhaust, intake and other upgrades for about 100 hp car, not really what you're looking for probably.

Bad gas/water in gas? Try some additives? While you're at it give it a stout gas treatment, i and many others use MMO or Seafoam. As for the cylinder misfire, I would have replaced the plugs while you were at it. And on EJ engines the ignition wires should have been Subaru only, I've seen brand new after market wires cause stumbling and check engine lights on EJ motors.

i'm not. i wasn't touting current EJ mechanical advice, just agreeing with him that they are annoying. i did one on an old 80's 4EAT's when Subaru used a gasket.

sounds like a chapter out of my book! been there, done that! then the pan is warped or the holes are distorted and cut into the new gasket...blah blah blah....annoying indeed.

interesting indeed. i've had a wide range of experiences too and have no answers, though i thought it was tires. mine got an order of magnitude better, i was assuming due to new tires, but maybe that wasn't it. i actually bought two new front sensors from Subaru for mine and was going to disable the system - but never installed them and the ABS works great now for some reason for the past year. i installed new dual pot front calipers, rotors, and pads. not sure how that would affect the ABS though. it's worked great even in the snow this year, a world of difference from a winter or two ago when it literally would not stop on a hill. the mystery continues i guess.....

way too high for a possibly costly problem. if diff and atf fluid is mixing then the internals of your trans or the diff gears might not last too long. ATF and gear oil are completely different fluids and the components requiring them shouldn't have the other stuff mixed in. buy this car with the idea of having it fixed. whether it's a menial problem or not i can't say for sure. but at worst case you're looking at replacing the transmission. if it's a bad seal internally, replacing the transmission with a used unit is your best option. your factory trained Subie guy mechanic, needs to brush up a little bit. He should know that no signs of "seepage" doesn't mean much on this car, the Phase I DOHC EJ25 in this car does not leak externally at the head gaskets, that's not how they fail. That's on the later Phase II EJ25's only. Not that it's a big deal, but I wouldn't be paying full price for an unknown Phase I EJ25 with trans issues. That's two possible huge problems. I would want to know if the head gaskets have already been replaced - that's a nice feature to have.

okay, that's what you didn't mention before. snow can really throw things off. if it's doing that, then pull the fuse for the winter. ABS can be dangerous if it's not operating properly and in the snow particularly. at this point it's not operating properly and i've owned a vehicle that did the same thing. like i already mentioned it went away when i got new tires. the old ones weren't that "old" and had tons of tread left. you can even find my old thread, they did the exact same thing in the snow, couldnt' even stop on a steep mountain grade like we have here in the mountains. i was freaking out that the thing would not physically come to a stop without pulling the e-brake. new tires fixed it. there is absolutely no substitute for good tires too. bridgestone Blizzacs, Nokian, etc. the ABS sensors may need cleaned off, they're magnetic and after 10 years they need cleaning of debris.