idosubaru

i wasn't able to get it to come up on the online subaru sites. it's not under the front drive axle parts and didn't come up with a search. how did you find it? if it sucks that tells us something, but if it's fine that doesn't tell us much, even the worst axles have some that work fine!

why the sticker? i think often times it's hard to see the "LSD" part due to the rear crossmember being in the way. how about those of us that have them laying in our garage, do you want pictures of those as well, they are much more comfortable to get a picture of! what's the purpose for the pic's?

nice hit! where did you find those? glad it all worked out.

EA82 automatic and manual ECU's are interchangeable...of course other things need to be the same, but transmission doesn't matter. if you're doing a transmission swap there is no need to swap ECU's. there's a pin in the harness that "tells" the ECU if it's an auto or manual...if it has the pin it's one, if it doesn't it's the other. any manual switches should only prevent the car from starting if it's in gear or the clutch isn't pushed in. and automatics can't be started unless they are in the proper gear. it's nothing overly complicated about it. if you tell us what you're trying to do (a trans swap i think?) we can be more specific. i think i've seen some EA82's that have differing features...some need the clutch pushed in, some do not, etc. but maybe they were just broke or my memory is bad!

you need to look for the oil leak, not just replace a few things. it should be really obvious if it's front/back/left/right. obvious leak-prone items you did not mention are front cam seals, front cam oring (drivers side). are you sure you properly sealed the oil pump when you reinstalled it?

yeah that plate helps seal behind the hub. if you can swap those plates you should be fine. i have heard of people knocking off parts of an axle, i am pretty sure that is the tone ring. but you could do some searching here and find those posts to be sure. i just looked it up and someone mentioned they knock the tone ring off, so it does come off which is what you would guess. hopefully getting that plate off and back on won't trouble you too much.

i don't know what yours comes with, but NASIOC has all sorts of brake information. when i was looking to buy a few sets of larger brakes i looked at the NASIOC threads, they have a dedicated brake caliper thread that's a really good read with all sorts of brake specific information for various models, which are larger, etc. i would read that thread.

regurgitating what i've heard/read when i was looking to upgrade: getting higher quality pads and larger calipers/rotors offers better improvements under normal driving than drilled/slotted rotors. most suggest that if you're not racing, towing or experiencing some other kind of high heat braking situations that drilled/slotted rotors offer negligible performance increases. based on those recommendations i've gone with larger calipers/rotors and have not tried drilled/slotted rotors yet.

have you tried replacing or cleaning the AFM? that might get it running properly. i think many will run without the MAF or AFM plugged in.

and auto trannys in some of their neatest vehicles - SVX & SUS

sorry if you're annoyed when i say it's hard and electrical (has come up a few times recently), and i don't mean to over-emphasize that. but it's usually because i'm trying to figure out if this is really someone who can and will do this. if someone is asking good and serious questions i won't do that. i totally agree with getting a wrecked vehicle, piecing together a swap can be a chore....particularly with the kinds of questions the OP is asking.

compression tests are easy enough to do, so it's not a bad idea, though might not be worth paying someone to do it. long answer to follow.... your original issues 25k prior was not head gaskets. if they're blown they can not last that long without any other issues...overheating, loss of coolant, etc. whether or not that original issue is related to the eventual failure i do not know but head gasket issues are so common on these, as is the piston slap, that trying to associate the normally benign piston slap with the much more serious head gasket issue probably won't gain us anything. because you'd never want to suggest to people that piston slap (common but almost always insignificant) may lead to head gasket problems (always significant)....even if the chances are really small, it's just not worth it. compression tests often turn out fine, they are not very good for diagnosing *this type* of head gasket problem. if it was significant enough to show on the compression gauge it would be hard to believe the owner isn't experiencing overheating or coolant loss...again, with this motor in mind.

then the same questions and comments apply. reread the last few posts and answer my questions. FWD verses AWD doesn't particularly complicate things at all, that's benign (ignoring DCCD stuff which doesn't matter). the wiring is going to be HUGE. if you're good with automotive stuff and have lots of time to devote to the wiring - then no problem. if you're not then this is way over your head. the one thing you have going for you is that the EJ turbo engine will drop in and bolt up to the cross member and should bolt right up to your transmission as well, whether your transmission will hold it very long is another question. exhaust isn't a big deal, even if you can't do it yourself it's not that hard to have someone weld it up for you. but the wiring and computer interfacing, that's a chore. almost any engine swap is possible. you can put a V8 in a subaru if you want to or a jet engine in a car (both have been done). depends on time, money and resources. automotive advice over the internet is hard enough with all the information you can possibly verbally give....not having any information makes it much harder. are you doing this work yourself, is someone else doing it? what are you trying to do? i think you should check out NASIOC, have you stopped over there yet?

first - make SURE you got all the bolts/nuts off. what vehicle and what bellhousing do you have? it changed right around 98/99 - 4 bolts and 8 bolt varieties exist. after that i use heavy duty screw drivers and then work up to a chisel to pry it apart. start in one spot then work you're way around as much as you can.

it is not rare at all for new axles to have issues. that's why people like me recommend Subaru only or MWE. as far as axles go there really are no Subaru alternatives in my opinion. do a search on here and you'll see lots of new axles with issues.

are you looking for an easy swap or very difficult, labor intensive with extensive wiring is okay? for turbo information your best bet is NASIOC. if you don't know what that is, you should! search yahoo or google.

good question. it doesn't do anything. it drives the same in every single gear....which i guess has me thinking - why does REVERSE work???? either going into reverse is strictly mechanical or there's a very limited amount of electrical activity?

i've got other vehicles and i am replacing it so i'm not going to spend much time on it. but i might do a bit of testing, like pull the codes or swap a TPS, and i'll be sure to post back here if i find anything out.

new OEM is a great idea. if it's price prohibitive then i'd grab a used coil before using an aftermarket, that's how bad they are. you are WAY better off with a used coil for the engine and a spare one in the glove compartment or trunk than an aftermarket...which is in even more need of having a spare!

i'll reconnect the plug some time and try to pull the transmission codes for kicks just to see. i've tried it before but have never had luck pulling trans codes from an XT6. i've done ABS, Power Steering, and ECU...but trans stuff never seems to work. so you think the pump is good then huh? definitely have torque bind. i may pull the plug on my OBS and see how it drives, to see if it's "about the same".

funny you say that, mine was the same way...vehicle was in great shape, not a speck of rust on it, but those exhaust bolts sucked worse than any i have seen to date. anyway, if you're pulling the heads DEFINITELY take it to a machine shop, just not worth the effort in my opinion. you can get them out but it'll probably require some extra tools, lots of time and annoying. i wasn't pulling the heads on mine so i didn't have much of a choice but to extract them = no fun. turns a 5 minute task into a 3 hour ordeal including trips to the store, breaking tools, some welding, grinding...real PITA.

you don't answer inconvenient questions, i thought i answered in another post - it did stay out of first w/o the TCU when warmed up. i drove it 20 miles home after it had already been warm from driving around town (in 1st!). drove home just fine. reverse works fine...for now?? Gloyale never piped up - i'm still wondering what this means?

i wasn't. i don't think it mattered in my case, they were in there so bad there was no way they were coming out.

awesome. this is not what i was thinking, but exactly what i was looking for. if i can get around town for a month or two that's awesome. thanks Gloyale! pretty sure it's torque binding but like i said i don't give a rip about this trans it's coming out anyway and i don't mind seeing what happens, kind of interested. just drove about 20 miles - did great. i think it's always in 3rd or 4th gear, is that how it works? slow to take off and i can't really feel it shifting at all. is there a "default" gear it's in?

it's not worth swapping parts. i already AM swapping the transmission, before this ever happened, so that's not a big deal...untimely yes, big deal, no. i think it happens with way too much predictability to just be a failing TCU. i think i'm driving home tonight with it all unplugged, that's just way too cool, i never had a clue you could do that.