idosubaru

Yes you are right, you should clear the codes and see which ones return. But knowing that those did show I would address these items: the MAF - is it a hotwire style MAF (i think yours is based on your description but can't be sure, many changed right around 87). if so, get some MAF cleaner and clean it..gently, those wires are very thin. when removing it, make sure none of those hair thin wires are broken. and then clean them, they get dirty and can cause problems. as for the water temperature sensor problem, find the water temperature sensor and clean the plug and contacts. the sensors don't fail, the contacts get corroded and dirty and heck the plastic harness plugs just fall apart sometimes they are so brittle. this problem is so bad and prevalent and reoccuring in XT's that i actually strip mine down and solder the wire straight to the sensor. the crank angle sensor is in the distributor. the internal surfaces can be cleaned, the optics get ditry, but you might want to check the distributor for play as well, the bushings/bearings can go bad. or just swap in a used one - be certain to get the exact disty for your car. so keep in mind, there are a few different styles and in general the 87 can be a whacked up year for EA82's since wiring and some other things changed then.

if your back hurts, a creeper would be nice to have for this job rather than inchworming your way under the car. lucky westerners with no rust.....parts come right out! that's one of the biggest deterrents of owning older subaru's around here, rust...not even the body/frame kind, just bolts and parts being hard to replace. good luck!

no kidding. EA81 is a single piece set up? are they fitted like the EA82 - slide into the trans and bolted to the diff and that's it? so is the two piece design "better" and that's why they went to it? it doesn't seem like there's a reliability issue with it, i don't see anyone having issues with EA81 driveshafts and 5" shouldn't make much difference? i wouldn't be worried at all if it's was all bolts, i'm worried about that end that slides into the rear diff having "play" in it. seems like the answer is no then.

that sounds like a poor deal. i posted his username above - gotsubaru or whatever it was, your thread was easy enough to find with a search so you can give him itrader feedback. looks like he does a fair amount of trading here.

right - i mean it's going into a Legacy that originally had an DOHC EJ25. do you know what non-EGR intake manifolds look like? i've never seen an EJ non-EGR intake manifold, but the one i have (non-EGR EJ22) has the location for an EGR valve, but just a plate bolted over the top of it. it *looks* rather factory and i don't recall seeing any plugs or vaccuum lines out of place. but really the EGR issue is the least of my concern, it's those pesky charcoal canister lines that i'm concerned about.

no i'll vouch for it not being rude, i was just getting ready to reply not even realizing it....i was confused until i read your post. a moderator should be able to split this thread, i do it on another subaru forum as a mod. hopefully that will happen? as to the problem, you need to check other things first, radiators are notorious for clogging and you haven't mentioned anything about how it overheats, does it do it every time, how long has it been doing it, any other work to the vehicle, and most importantly are there any bubbles in the overflow tank after turning it off? and tell us which motor you have. nippers comments about "any head gasket being a risk at 160k" are not accurate here...if it's an EJ25 it is far more susceptible to head gasket issues than an EJ22. it's not like EJ25's are more susceptible to loosing head gaskets until you reach 160,000 and then the percentage of failures magically are identical to every other engine. mathematics, physics, and statistics don't work that way. and yes you can easily swap an EJ22 into an EJ25 vehicle. you can do a search here for figure out the details on that, it's well covered and documented.

94 loyale - great, glad to hear yours worked out okay. i've still yet to ever do wheel bearings, so they scare me. the great thing is that you have this place to ask questions. swapping in a good hub might be a better bet and sometimes it's cheaper depending on the price of the bearings, seals, and local supplies. heck if 94 loyale is offering he may know where a good hub is sitting since he just had to look last week. if you take it somewhere, it definitely does not have to be a dealer. almost any shop is set up to do wheel bearings. i do not know how subaru's compare to other makes and being a 4WD car from the 80's they may be a bit strange, but most places shouldn't have a problem.

great question caboob. i always wondered if this could be done as well. my main worry was that the rear output of the transmission would be taking much more weight and i wondered if the additional vibrations as well would "round out" or affect the rear input area of the transmission that the driveshaft runs through. i wanted to get an aluminum shaft made next time i pull the rear diff, which is going to be really soon. for me it would be less rotational mass and fewer ujoints. i wonder if driveline shops would have a lot to say about this. post back if you find anything out!

80k - 100k GT sedans in great shape sell like hotcakes, OP's was 117,000 miles. large cities are always good, large markets, that may be the difference more so than the vehicles. and i'm used to that coming from the DC metro area. yeah the outbacks are definitely much better than base model wagons for sure. whoops, i guess he gets a reasonable idea of prices and variations, so not totally worthless or off topic!

EJ22 intake is going into an DOHC EJ25 Legacy. Obviously used to have EGR. i do not want EGR, so if i can get it to run with CEL i would be super happy, i hate the EGR systems. i should get to it soon, power went out today so i played racquetball instead! the lack of charcoal canister lines has be baffled, it looks different than all the other EJ engines/manifolds i have lying around. wish i could figure out what the deal is with that engine.

it really depends on need and time. the more you need it, the more valuable it is to you. i don't need it, i would pay $200 for it. i have friends that could use that for $500- $1,000. it's value is probably slightly more. i would say up to $1,500 is a reasonable deal...keeping in mind i would never pay that for it, which is the response you'll get from some people. do a search for previously ended items and search on auto trader, you'll get an idea for what things are actually selling for and what they're listed for (auto trader). you need to see what's around your market...that's probably very helpful for you. big thing will be to inspect the rust carefully or ask them about it. you don't want a rot box, they're easy to find here on the easy coast.

nah, sedans are worth more. i sell to the PA market, i just sold that 97 GT to a guy in pittsburgh PA, $5,500, first guy that test drove it. i will get that for the next one too. much harder to get that for a 97 wagon, which is exactly what you're telling me. if you have any excellent condition, low mileage, $3k-$4k GT sedans for sale, I will buy them immediately.

there are always two sides to the story. he's sold a number of things on this board. unfortunately there's no record on the details of this transaction. scrapdaddy posted a "wanted" add and gotsubarus just replied that he had one, that's it. no description. that being said, the thread was easy to find and you can post on his itrader account.

i agree totally, that engine block looks horrific, where was that thing Tim? but i will say that there are situations where the cost is a factor. finding cheap machine shops in his area isn't easy (not impossible), but MD is rather on the pricey end of things...with some of the richest counties in the nation and high property values. and knowing that tim just went through a horrific cancer ordeal, chemo-therapy and not being able to work...i don't know all the details but i'm sure he's not way ahead right now. i'll give you a set of EA82 head gaskets i have if you want them. they are beck arnley though, not Fel-Pro permatorques which is what i would recommend.

that sounds like a stank deal, but this is the wrong forum and way to go about it. it's hard to believe you can't figure out his user name and search for some information. a RHD legacy in perfect condition for $2,000 - i think that's a bit of an exaggeration. they are rather hard to find and not cheap from what i've seen. (note - i didn't say you can't find them cheap or good deals). not too mention postal vehicles go through hell, it is certainly a huge responsibility on the buyer to look it over or make decisions accordingly on vehicles that are used for other-than-daily-driver activities. i based on your description i think a blind folded blind man at night in a hurricane could have ascertained that it wasn't perfect:

what kind of driving are you using these for? racing quality brakes are not good for daily driving and daily driving brakes are not good for racing. from what i've gathered drilled and slotted rotors are very minimal in adding anything significant to your actual braking unless you're on a track. the better upgrade option might be larger brakes. my knowledge of performance brakes is limited and i did a bunch of asking around and reading and that's the conclusion i came to. larger brakes will give you far better results than having drilled verses not drilled rotors. i have since bought a few sets of larger brakes.

anyone else know what i'm going to run into installing this non-EGR and non-Charcoal canister looking EJ22 intake??

they are very easy to replace. i think there's 4 bolts for the two brackets and the 2 nuts for the tie rod ends. very simple. i did one this year, didn't take long. you'll want to carefully measure the tie rod end placement...counting rotations if you want to try and do this without getting an alignment...come to think of it, i never did and so far so good. what really determines time and how hard is how rusted they are. tie rod nuts that are rusted can be annoying. i'll get reamed for saying this, but if the rack is that bad you could try a bottle of stop leak for kicks.

i buy subaru's for friends and myself of course, but i have a lot of experience with this, even this year. look for a late 90's impreza sedan or OBS or a Legacy wagon or sedan with a 2.2 (or 1.8). take a look at those and see which you like, many of my friends don't care, they just want a reliable vehicle. an EJ22 with a manual trans is about the cheapest reliability money can buy. i picked up a 80,000 mile 1997 Impreza Sedan for $3,000. I gave it a solid $400 tune, timing belts, water pump, timing pulleys, brakes, PCV, thermostat, air filter, etc. that's what i would aim for, no more than 100,000 miles and a late 90's EJ22. although 1996 and earlier EJ22's are not interference which is nice...up to you. if you're willing to do some work you can get them even cheaper. i've gotten a few Legacy GT sedans this year for under a $1,000...but they needed some work, like head gaskets. i'm looking at a couple others right now that i might pick up next week that need some work and are less than $1,000 as well.

what exactly does that mean? how does that work and what happens if i put it on a vehicle without that....guess my gas tank will implode? how many vehicles are like this, i've never seen one....except maybe this one, but it was before i really had a mind to check into it and i don't have it any more to look at (grrrr....). i've had 3 1997 OBS automatics - all identical, two with EGR and charcoal canister up front in the engine bay....like every other subaru i've ever seen. then one was a freak-a-zoid - it had no EGR and no charcoal canister stuff. was a one owner vehicle, guy lived 7 miles from me and never did anything out of the ordinary with it *that i know of*.

that wasn't a GT sedan in excellent condition was it? there's a huge difference between wagons and GT sedans. the GT is harder to find and easier to sell. look them up on autotrader, etc....finding a great condition GT sedan with maintenance records and relatively low miles for under $5,000 isn't nearly as easy as a wagon. I sold an older one, a 1997 Legacy GT sedan for $5,500 just a few months ago. now, i wouldn't pay it, but if i'm selling them for $5,500 then the market price is close to what he's talking. i wouldn't consider it a good deal (unless the headgaskets have been replaced), but $5,200 is not a terrible price in and of itself. remember there's a big difference between people like us that are sniffing the market every day looking for deals. he probably likes the look of a GT sedan. if it's in excellent condition, leather seats, everything works, with service records, one owner...a healthy combination of those items make GT sedans very easy to sell (been there, done that). i say it's a decent price, but i wouldn't recommend paying it due to the head gasket issue...again, that's just me, make your decisions accordingly.

12 ftlb, i verified with a 1997 FSM. just to make sure, you're talking about the cam cap that holds the cam seal right? are you at all curious why the cam seized or do you know? did it run out of oil? most likely the cam was starved of oil. if it didn't run out or have a major leak i'd suspect something contaminated the oil supply.

Type in "Subaru head gasket" into Yahoo, Google, or just type "head gasket" in here on the search function. The GT is a great car, but the EJ25 is prone to head gasket issues. It's about a $1,500 repair. I wouldn't pay top dollar for one and I wouldn't let my wife drive one, unless I could verify it has already had them replaced. Two of the ones I bought this year already had them replaced. That being said, they are awesome vehicles. Drive the car for a very long time, let it idle the entire time you're looking at it and keep an eye on the temperature gauge. If it go up above 1/2 way, be very concerned. You would not be the first person to buy a car only to find out a week or month later that the head gaskets are bad...I recall one recently on here. I am not trying to scare you, but thoroughly test drive it and check it out. Drive it very, very slowly in very tight circles (steering wheel turned to full lock). That check is for torque bind. That is rare in manual transmissions but a very bad thing. Check that all the tires match in size, tread and wear. These AWD transmissions are best to keep matched tires and rotated frequently. Subaru specifically calls for all the tires being within 1/4" circumference of each other. Knock sensors are a common issue, but very, very minor. The rubber housing gets old and cracks. The CEL comes on and you replace it. They're $80 and require removing one 12mm bolt to replace so even if you pay to have it done it's cheap.

I have an intake manifold that came off a 97 EJ22 OBS I am going to be installing in another vehicle. Thing is this manifold does not have any metal or rubber lines coming to the front passengers side of the engine bay for the charcoal canister. I owned this car a few years ago and recall it didn't have a charcoal canister up front. So where are the lines for this stuff?

for the EJ25, when the head gaskets first start to go the only way to get them to cool down is to turn the car off. even letting it idle while drifting down a long grade mountain will make them continue to overheat. i have yet to see/drive one that did something different. so if you had a different experience, this may point to yours not being the head gasket and it being something else.