idosubaru

racks are very easy if you end up replacing it. keep in mind you'll want to keep your steering wheel lined up straight when you install the rack. as soon as you disconnect the steering linkage from the rack it'll just flop around and you'll have to line it back up properly. do this before you snug everything up because that linkage doesn't come back off easily.

"how much is my $7,000 car worth for insurance reasons?" $7,000??? or add in a bit more for your time. ask your insurance company to insure it for whatever you want to insure it for. look at it like life insurance, the more you want, the more you pay. there's no magical formula or way to ascertain "value", nor does it matter.

i have two and both are the same 16" i believe they're the same as most other 16" subaru wheels - the 16" WRX wheels, the newer Legacy 16" wheels, because they all take the same size tire.

no joke, that is literally how i learned just about everything. no family or friends here worked on cars, it was learn as you go for me. certainly made it fun, lots of learning the hard way too. as for a few posts ago about swapping to an EJ22 - that is an option.

HEY - is this vehicle still qualified for Subaru's extended head gasket replacement campaign - that's up to 100,000 miles on some 2000-2002 EJ25's...sounds like his may be??? Just for giggles you might want to check the backside of your engine assembly. The external leaks like your 2001 have are very obvious but do not necessarily cause puddles on the ground. They actually leak very slow at the rear of the engine and run down the back of the engine. It can run down the engine, motor mounts, cross member and burn off before really hitting the ground. My guess is the old stuff is ignition related and the newest stuff is a different problem - loss of coolant was an external leak that was slow and went unnoticed until the coolant level dropped too much. hard to say over the internet without seeing anything, but based on EJ's and 2001...and what i'm reading i think that's the most likely scenario . Your 2001 is a candidate for the Subaru coolant additive, it should have had the coolant additive added to it (that is for 2000 - 2002 EJ25's, not earlier ones).

remove it and inspect, the ones i've seen that are bad are brittle with age and may even fall apart upon removal. check the wiring harness plug and the sensor itself for any signs of cracking or corrosion. probably a continuity or resistance check to do on the sensor to but i don't know the spec's.

i checked out that link but it didn't seem to offer much for my situation, maybe i'll look at it again later? and yes, normally i am all about keeping the intake wiring harness and goods with the vehicle, that is simplest for sure. the plot thickens - the EJ25 manifold i was using actually doesn't have the charcoal canister stuff up front either, i forgot i had two of them like this. i don't feel like taking the intake manifold off the engine that came out of the car because it's a perfectly running EJ25 and i'd rather keep it that way. so i'm going to drop this non-EGR and non-charcoal-up-front intake manifold on and see what happens. they're easy enough to swap out if i don't like the results. any idea what problems that will cause not having those 3 charcoal canister lines? are they emissions only? they don't affect fuel flow or the engine?

there's another one out there that's a bit different than this one, cooler in my opinion but i'm biased. XT6's all came with a lighted key blank as well and they are still available i think. i bought 4 or 5 last year.

man, i missed all the fun. craziness. get on the phone with emily, from CCR, now and she'll help you with EJ25's. realistically speaking you could use a bunch of different EJ25's and you're not going to notice a lick of difference if you just bolt your intake manifold on top of the block. but there's no reason not to get the same year/style EJ25. again you can ask emily but the DOHC i believe has a few more horses, maybe she could comment on extended reliability? yes, no problem with CCR, they are great i am glad you are going that route. as far as what happened to this motor, i don't think the initial problems were HG related. you keep saying cylinder 3 CEL - so that was probably a "Cylinder #3 misfire" code. if that's the case, that is almost always related to the ignition. in my experience it is usually the spark plug wires and could be the plugs or ignition coil itself. on EJ engines only, the wires must be Subaru only and the plugs should definitely be NGK only. i've seen brand new ones cause cylinder misfire codes on EJ engines and it's well known amongst Subaru boards and wire manufacturers like Magnecor that the EJ motors are not very forgiving when it comes to plugs and wires. so i think your CEL was something ignition related, not the head gasket. head gasket failures get worse rather quickly, except the "typical" failures that you 01 year sees, they leak externally and can be driven for extended periods of time with no overheating unless it gets low on coolant. another interesting tid-bit is that your 01 style EJ25 does not typically leak internally, they leak externally down the back side of the head to block mating area. the 1996-1999 EJ25's leak internally, later years leak externally. those earlier years also overheat immediately and get worse very quickly. so that even makes me think more that this wasn't a head gasket, at least not in the past. now what happened recently, the loss of coolant, i have no idea what happened there but you're positive there was no external leaking?

good to know W, thanks. i'll give it a look later. so you have seen one without the charcoal canister stuff up front and it was a 1995? thanks for replying, it's a bit frustrating that no one else has seen this or is responding!

for those prices he needs to contact CCR - look them up . Colorado Component Rebuilders. get a new engine with warranty, top-notch subaru only rebuilders, they are members here. a dealer replacing ONE head gasket - i don't know the full story there but if any dealer recommended or offered to do "one head gasket" i would leave immediately and never return until the service department was rid of their stupidity. that's rediculous. now onto his current situation, i'm wondering if he can even trust the dealer if it's the same one that replaced "one" head gasket. in any event, i highly doubt it's leaking on all 4 cylinders, that is a bit much. but if your friend drove it repeatedly, often or far while overheating it is possible. "cracked block" is highly unlikely. i've heard of dealers offering this diagnosis and it's more protection than it is truth. really there's no way to gaurantee that the block is not cracked. it rarely does crack and dealers that say this are just protecting themselves. imagine saying "you need new head gaskets" - which is ture 98 percent of the time - and then having an owner come back with a cracked block after spending $1,500 to replace their head gaskets. NOT HAPPY is the result. i think to avoid that many dealers just throw their hands up and say "cracked block". but they are definitely not diagnosing properly because i can't stress enough how odd leaking in all 4 cylinders and having a cracked block would be. now if your friend drove this thing a lot over heating or hot, then all bets are off.

you're probably right, but swapping the wiring harness looked like a major PITA. not too mention the EJ25 has the EGR stuff on it, and EGR is crap. swapping that fuel rail and all those metal lines looked like a bear...is it?? i guess compared to an engine/trans swap it should be cake, ha ha. i do have plenty of EJ25 stuff and the one that came out of the vehicle, so i'll look at it again, did not look appetizing the first time i considered it. if i swapped the EGR equipped EJ25 do you think i could just leave it unplugged, i don't care about the codes. it would be interesting to do that and somehow find one of these mysterious (THAT I USED TO HAVE...GRRR) non-EGR EJ22's. i should theoretically be able to install that non EGR EJ22 ECU and be golden, right?

Yes you are right, you should clear the codes and see which ones return. But knowing that those did show I would address these items: the MAF - is it a hotwire style MAF (i think yours is based on your description but can't be sure, many changed right around 87). if so, get some MAF cleaner and clean it..gently, those wires are very thin. when removing it, make sure none of those hair thin wires are broken. and then clean them, they get dirty and can cause problems. as for the water temperature sensor problem, find the water temperature sensor and clean the plug and contacts. the sensors don't fail, the contacts get corroded and dirty and heck the plastic harness plugs just fall apart sometimes they are so brittle. this problem is so bad and prevalent and reoccuring in XT's that i actually strip mine down and solder the wire straight to the sensor. the crank angle sensor is in the distributor. the internal surfaces can be cleaned, the optics get ditry, but you might want to check the distributor for play as well, the bushings/bearings can go bad. or just swap in a used one - be certain to get the exact disty for your car. so keep in mind, there are a few different styles and in general the 87 can be a whacked up year for EA82's since wiring and some other things changed then.

if your back hurts, a creeper would be nice to have for this job rather than inchworming your way under the car. lucky westerners with no rust.....parts come right out! that's one of the biggest deterrents of owning older subaru's around here, rust...not even the body/frame kind, just bolts and parts being hard to replace. good luck!

no kidding. EA81 is a single piece set up? are they fitted like the EA82 - slide into the trans and bolted to the diff and that's it? so is the two piece design "better" and that's why they went to it? it doesn't seem like there's a reliability issue with it, i don't see anyone having issues with EA81 driveshafts and 5" shouldn't make much difference? i wouldn't be worried at all if it's was all bolts, i'm worried about that end that slides into the rear diff having "play" in it. seems like the answer is no then.

that sounds like a poor deal. i posted his username above - gotsubaru or whatever it was, your thread was easy enough to find with a search so you can give him itrader feedback. looks like he does a fair amount of trading here.

right - i mean it's going into a Legacy that originally had an DOHC EJ25. do you know what non-EGR intake manifolds look like? i've never seen an EJ non-EGR intake manifold, but the one i have (non-EGR EJ22) has the location for an EGR valve, but just a plate bolted over the top of it. it *looks* rather factory and i don't recall seeing any plugs or vaccuum lines out of place. but really the EGR issue is the least of my concern, it's those pesky charcoal canister lines that i'm concerned about.

no i'll vouch for it not being rude, i was just getting ready to reply not even realizing it....i was confused until i read your post. a moderator should be able to split this thread, i do it on another subaru forum as a mod. hopefully that will happen? as to the problem, you need to check other things first, radiators are notorious for clogging and you haven't mentioned anything about how it overheats, does it do it every time, how long has it been doing it, any other work to the vehicle, and most importantly are there any bubbles in the overflow tank after turning it off? and tell us which motor you have. nippers comments about "any head gasket being a risk at 160k" are not accurate here...if it's an EJ25 it is far more susceptible to head gasket issues than an EJ22. it's not like EJ25's are more susceptible to loosing head gaskets until you reach 160,000 and then the percentage of failures magically are identical to every other engine. mathematics, physics, and statistics don't work that way. and yes you can easily swap an EJ22 into an EJ25 vehicle. you can do a search here for figure out the details on that, it's well covered and documented.

94 loyale - great, glad to hear yours worked out okay. i've still yet to ever do wheel bearings, so they scare me. the great thing is that you have this place to ask questions. swapping in a good hub might be a better bet and sometimes it's cheaper depending on the price of the bearings, seals, and local supplies. heck if 94 loyale is offering he may know where a good hub is sitting since he just had to look last week. if you take it somewhere, it definitely does not have to be a dealer. almost any shop is set up to do wheel bearings. i do not know how subaru's compare to other makes and being a 4WD car from the 80's they may be a bit strange, but most places shouldn't have a problem.

great question caboob. i always wondered if this could be done as well. my main worry was that the rear output of the transmission would be taking much more weight and i wondered if the additional vibrations as well would "round out" or affect the rear input area of the transmission that the driveshaft runs through. i wanted to get an aluminum shaft made next time i pull the rear diff, which is going to be really soon. for me it would be less rotational mass and fewer ujoints. i wonder if driveline shops would have a lot to say about this. post back if you find anything out!

80k - 100k GT sedans in great shape sell like hotcakes, OP's was 117,000 miles. large cities are always good, large markets, that may be the difference more so than the vehicles. and i'm used to that coming from the DC metro area. yeah the outbacks are definitely much better than base model wagons for sure. whoops, i guess he gets a reasonable idea of prices and variations, so not totally worthless or off topic!

EJ22 intake is going into an DOHC EJ25 Legacy. Obviously used to have EGR. i do not want EGR, so if i can get it to run with CEL i would be super happy, i hate the EGR systems. i should get to it soon, power went out today so i played racquetball instead! the lack of charcoal canister lines has be baffled, it looks different than all the other EJ engines/manifolds i have lying around. wish i could figure out what the deal is with that engine.

it really depends on need and time. the more you need it, the more valuable it is to you. i don't need it, i would pay $200 for it. i have friends that could use that for $500- $1,000. it's value is probably slightly more. i would say up to $1,500 is a reasonable deal...keeping in mind i would never pay that for it, which is the response you'll get from some people. do a search for previously ended items and search on auto trader, you'll get an idea for what things are actually selling for and what they're listed for (auto trader). you need to see what's around your market...that's probably very helpful for you. big thing will be to inspect the rust carefully or ask them about it. you don't want a rot box, they're easy to find here on the easy coast.

nah, sedans are worth more. i sell to the PA market, i just sold that 97 GT to a guy in pittsburgh PA, $5,500, first guy that test drove it. i will get that for the next one too. much harder to get that for a 97 wagon, which is exactly what you're telling me. if you have any excellent condition, low mileage, $3k-$4k GT sedans for sale, I will buy them immediately.

there are always two sides to the story. he's sold a number of things on this board. unfortunately there's no record on the details of this transaction. scrapdaddy posted a "wanted" add and gotsubarus just replied that he had one, that's it. no description. that being said, the thread was easy to find and you can post on his itrader account.