idosubaru

i think you're close to Harry's - they have hubs for probably $15 or something, they are super cheap and loaded with subaru's. hard to believe they wouldn't have an EA82 rear hub.

even a light duty propane torch will help, you can pick those up for $10-$20 even. heat it for about a minute or 90 seconds if you're not familiar with that technique. if it doesn't work, let it cool back down before trying again. two reasons - the heating/cooling could break the rust and if both are hot it could make it harder. there's also a "freezing" product that works under the same concept..but in reverse so to speak. that in combination with heat may help too. hey GD, is PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Deep Creep being used? is that okay around bearings if you're replacing them? that stuff is awesome at helping with rust (do not use WD40). installing a used hub isn't a bad idea if you think you can get yours off. rust is such a nuissance around here, it's really the thorn of all older subaru's around here. you should be able to find a used hub for $25-$35 easily if they're as available around you as they are around here. you could even buy one, install your new bearings, then install the hub to the car. more money out of pocket, but could reduce down time if you can't get that nut loose. if you were close to morgantown, you could borrow my tool, i have one.

and that includes getting the tools and clean up. i'm at about 40,000 miles on my current XT6 belts and i've run open covers since I got it. they appear in great shape and i drive in craptastic winter roads...salt, coal, you name it...and off road, high RPM mountain driving, and the car was overheating, and i tow....been beating this one up the past year and the belt is hanging tough so far. interesting discussion i hadn't thought that i'm getting close to tbelt replacement time for the XT6. guess next summer will be a good time.

if you need POR15 that probably doesn't do timing belts any good. the cams rust, they get pitted and can probably wear the belt quicker. but i still run without them, mine just get rusted on the face. if it's sitting very long like that in this kind of weather and driving that's probably not a good idea, the surface the timing belt rides on will probably start to rust. just a hunch....based on what i've seen. i still run with no covers, but this isn't a "everyone has to do it the same way thing". if you drive a normal amount it won't be an issue. if not, then i guess make your decision accordingly. the EA82 and ER27 engines can all be done without removing the radiator. the XT6 ER27 is far easier to do than the EA82. the clutch fan is the big turd of the EA82. install some electric fans and timing belts are a walk in the park. no covers, no clutch fan....timing belts are like a 10 minute job, no need to pull the radiator. they are amazingly easy.

that sucks. a 98 OBW should have the EJ25 which is an interference engine. it is most likely that you have at the very least - minor valve damage. probably more likely that it's significant damage. of course i hope i'm wrong. mental note, at that kind of mileage and age it's good to replace or repack all the timing pulleys. the toothed idlers are the ones that seem to fail first.

the cam sprockets and bolts are iron and are rust-happy critters. i can only speak from the MD, WV area, but they rust up very quickly around here when driving with open covers. painting them or driving them often is necessary, mine is a daily driver that gets lots of use so no worries here.

he's talking about the timing tensioner rod, nothing internal. an easy fix...but still expensive. i agree it would suck major back side to spend $1,000 now only to find out in 6 months you have a $1,500 head gasket job needed to, but you certainly wouldn't trash a good engine for a $100 noisey tensioner.

it's a risk, but typically external leaks can be small and be driven quite a while. if it gets worse and it's a supply line (say to the cams) then you could have an oil starved valve train. so even if it was "okay" when he had it replaced it's only a matter of time before it gets to the point where it could cause problems. there is where the risk comes into play....may have taken 300,000 miles...might have taken 3,000.

no, i'm not suggesting anything right now. i agree it could be the ignitor but don't know how to test them. others should be able to help, you gave some good info so far.

get it replaced soon...broken timing stuff is bad. $1,000 is steep, might want to shop around if you want to save a few hundred. that's not abnormal for dealer pricing though. if it's a place you trust and like then go for it, if you don't really know then you may want to get another quote from elsewhere.

that is crazy about the 14" and 15" wheels...nuts, i wanted 16's on my Legacy with an EJ18! i guess that's not going to go over so well. i meant there weren't any comments favoring autos, not that there werent' any auto trans! ha ha, that is awesome.

mods - delete????

i think that stuff may be there already if your model came with it. might be mostly plug and play though.

here's a thread with some coil testing information: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60957&page=2&highlight=coil i found that using the search button up top, just searched New Generation forum for "coil" under a "title search only".

10 year old, 205,000 miles and it was probably overheating (bad headgaskets) at one point. sounds like enough to send a coil to it's demise. i have a bunch lying around so i don't know the proper way to test beyond just swapping in a good one. i believe they are the same on most 1990's (and some 2000+) subaru's, so it should be easy to find a replacement for dirt cheap.

there weren't any??? i only mentioned the differences in capability between auto/manual in the EA's vs. EJ's. since he mentioned dual range i figured 4WD may be something important to him.

coil pack could be shot. remember - we are trying to help over the internet. we can't touch it, see it, hear it, or even look at it. that makes it tough, but we are still DANG good. the more relevant information you can give us the better. what's the mileage on the vehicle? what is the state of the tune-up items? plugs, wires? when was the timing belt replaced? you could have a broken timing belt. you checked the cam/crank sensors - are they pulsing when cranking, that would indicate the timing belt is fine. is the check engine light or or has it come on anytime recently? any recent work done to the vehicle - brake work, etc? my home is Westminster, MD - never heard of Port tobacco but sounds like eastern shore country?

coil pack could be shot. remember - we are trying to help over the internet. we can't touch it, see it, hear it, or even look at it. that makes it tough, but we are still DANG good. the more relevant information you can give us the better. what's the mileage on the vehicle? what is the state of the tune-up items? plugs, wires? when was the timing belt replaced? you checked the cam/crank sensors - are they pulsing when cranking, that would indicate the timing belt is fine. is the check engine light or or has it come on anytime recently? any recent work done to the vehicle - brake work, etc?

looks like you took pictures of mine - new lug stud here and there and the axle end sawed off for EJ wheels!!! how does that rear hub 5lug part come off, had someone remove them for me (away, in another state) not too long ago. do the bearings have to come out/apart for that piece to come off?

i started doing it years ago before it became the constant USMB debate. but his is not my car, not my choice. cool, maybe we can argue that without covers this timing belt would have lasted longer! less oil would have been contained by the covers and dripping on the belt...it would have spattered all over the hood, radiator and everything else, but dispersed further away such that less was left to drip on the belt? oh yeah, let's start the no cover verses cover thing again...20 pages here we come!

i had actually typed a sentence mentioning the DCCD but erased it, i should have known someone would be dying to pick that apart!

i doubt it. keep in mind how old everything else is. have you replaced or regreased all of the timing pulley bearings? that alone could cause more heat and reduce the life of the belts. and then in the course of a few years and 45k on a 20 year old car it's probably likely the belt got some oil, grease, or antifreeze on it as well. see last 5 posts!!

really, in 9 months or less? that quick? granted...the crank seal was spewing oil at an enormous rate....but i still would have thought it would last longer than that. everyone agrees oil will destroy the belt in 9 months or less?

replaced the timing belt for a friend on his EA82. that was earlier this year so it doesn't have many miles on it, 15k maybe. i replaced all the pulleys and tensioners as well. it was an ebay kit....maybe this is my first experience with "lesser" quality or is something else possible? the front main seal was leaking profusely for awhile, spattering oil everywhere and soaking the timing belt. would that cause a belt to break after 15k or 9 months, i wouldn't think so?

i worked for Flowserve and Ingersoll-Dresser, both pump manufacturers. the cast impeller shown here would be the most efficient in the case of the hydraulic pumps we worked with, all of which moved water, but of course they were much larger. that knowledge has since left me.