idosubaru

if you're getting the heads milled just let a machine shop get them out, they're equipped to take care of this in minutes. yes, i've done it before, did an EJ25 this year. annoying. use heat and get some left handed high quality drill bits. start small, drill a pilot hole, then drill a bigger hole and eventually it'll back out. or.....a method that others will ream me for suggesting is to drill a small hole inside the existing bolt, tap it, and install a smaller bolt into the old bolt...just leave it there (it's not going anywhere!). i don't recommend it, but i've done it and it does work. just be wise on sizing it as big as you can, drilling in the center and don't over tighten the nut, and you're on your way. actually removing them is a pain, but i've done that too (that's what i usually do). there's lots of other threads on here about this...might want to search and look them up. good luck it's no fun!

but before i get too carried away on learning something, i'd like to know what this means in my situation. i guess i need to know how a "good 4EAT" performs this way though, i have no base line. should it drive and shift exactly like normal or be a bit slower and less firm? might also make a difference what it does when it get warmed up...like once it's warmed it might start doing the same thing as it did before (stuck in first). im confused that's all i know, but i went for a drive not too long ago and it wasn't shifting out of first.

i'm still spinning over this, read my last post it does work...definitely someone fill me in what is going on.

WTF - YOU'RE RIGHT!! dang it, that is awesome. i was just baffled by that comment and went and pulled the plug...and sure enough it drove! what exactly is it doing, it does drive better, it doesn't seem to stay in first, but what gear was it in? didn't seem to shift, took off a bit slower...like it was starting in second or something? i only went for a short drive but it seemed to have torque bind like this, is that normal? wow GLoyale, that is cool...how many other things like this don't i know...can you make a list? that was awesome. can i unplug my ECU too!!

NO WAY! really? i had no idea an auto trans would still work, is that true of all transmissions? hey play nice! i do not understand how automatic transmissions work and what they do when certain systems begin to fail. i'd like to understand how the hydraulics, clutches, solenoids, TCU and shifting, and engine all work, but i do not. it's not denial, i'd like to understand that as much as i do engines so i'll keep asking. i'm an engineer i think you can understand my questioning and learning through an experience...as annoying as it may be! - i'm glad this didn't happen to my other one, you'd be blaming it on the Duty C switch!!!!!

that will make it interesting to see how long it will keep going! it's been since thanksgiving...so a few weeks already.

that's no fun, i've been driving it for weeks like this.

seems goofy that it would rather run the engine at 5,000, 6,000 or 7,000 rpm than just shift into 2nd or 3rd even if it isn't working perfectly. TCU designers: "if the transmission is going out, let's make sure it takes the engine with it??" guess that comes down to how i drive it, but still goofy.

what would it do if i forced it into 2nd, 3rd, or 4th...since it shifts and drives fine when it does choose to go there i'm finding it hard to believe it wouldn't drive fine...at least for a little while! i find it goofy and outright stupid that it just won't shift when it's at 6 or 7,000 rpms. how is that better than shifting into gear and slipping some? i've had and been in slipping auto trans before and mine does not slip a bit, shifts great...(if it shifts!)

i dont' need no santa, i've already got a couple!

not sure. it would just die almost instantaneously like it hit a brick wall...basically just like a manual transmission that is put in gear with the ebrake on...dead stall, no sputter. if i reved it really high rpm in neutral then slammed it into drive it would rock a foot or something and then die...but no sputtering at all, it would just stall like it wasn't engaging at all.

Skip was wondering if the TPS idle switch is cracked up? Just before it was doing this it had a problem that was a bit different (but i bet related). The trans would not go into drive until it was warmed (kind of the opposite of now). I would have to let the car warm up for 10 minutes and then it would drive perfectly fine...highways, towing, mountains, etc. If i tried to drive when i first started it, it would stall as soon as i put it in gear...like a manual trans put into gear with the brakes on. i was replacing it anyway and already have a legacy 4EAT ready to go in it....but wasn't planning on that for a couple months.

yes skip the XT6 has a first hold switch, i don't think that's the problem. that box you have is mighty fantastic but probably beyond my scope to make and properly hook up. i'll look into it. good point on the TPS - i'll check the contacts, wiring and swap in another one. unfortunately the XT6 FSM is dead wrong on TPS spec's so i can't really test it, though the idle switch should be straight forward open/closed. funny thing...before this my transmission was not going into drive (AT ALL) until it warmed up. in other words if i put it in any gear it would just stall...like putting a manual trans in gear with the brakes on...just stall out immediately without moving. after it warmed up for a few minutes it would drive completely normal and would not do that again until left to cool for a long time....hmmm...i bet it's related. since both are issues related to "being warmed up"...i wonder if it is pointing to the idle switch...but not sure why it would have two different symptoms like this.

i'm not sure what you're asking, it does not shift out of first (no matter what..gear, rpm's, restarting, etc). when i first start it in the morning (cold) it shifts fine. after it warms up, no go. the front speed sensor has been inoperable for a year so i don't think that is it. and i drove another XT6 for a year before without the speed sensor hooked up before as well, so i don't think that is it. but i will check the rear wheel speed sensor, maybe that combined with the front not working is causing something. that would be sweet if it was that simple....

being that the XT6 is a bit of a cross over with the 4EAT, which is mostly an EJ transmission i was hoping the mod's would let me cross post here since i know there are some really knowledgeable 4EAT folks on the New Gen side. my 4EAT (XT6 - which is easily swappable to an EJ trans, very similar). after warming up it won't shift out of first, but otherwise works fine in any gear with no slipping, new fluid, indicator lights are fine and i believe the linkage is fine. any comments: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=685448#post685448

when first started my XT6 will shift fine. after about 10 minutes or so of driving or being turned on it won't shift out of first gear. why not? if it does go into gear, it operates fine, no slippage at all and plenty of power. fluid level is fine, i changed the fluid and the lights on the parking selector show up just fine. when it is first started it will shift through all the gears fine as well so i don't think it's linkage related. can i "hard wire it" and force it to shift into a higher gear? i'm pulling this transmission sometime soon anyway but would like some functionality for now if i can switch it into gear myself....i'm sure it's complicated....???

actually by far the quickest way possible to do this job is to drop the transmission..with some major "if's". BUT - it is harder working from under the car, working from your back and going to install it. and probably not by yourself if you don't have a really nice transmission jack. if you feel comfortable reinstalling the trans from under the car you will save yourself a ton of time. with a helped you got a good chance. if you have an engine lift and a helper you got a real good chance. you can feed the engine lift (or some chain to it) through the engine compartment, down to the trans to help hold the wait and pull it up while you guide it.....you know with safety in mind and all. the transmission is very straight forward, nothing special. those two lower engine to transmission mounting bolts/nuts are really annoying for sure. a variety assortment of attachments...and in some cases (can't recall which soobs) a wratcheting wrench are nice. engine removal and replacement takes hours. i've had a transmission on the ground before in 30 minutes and not including hack-job engine removal (cut everything rather than remove), you'll never get that with an engine. replace all the clutch components and definitely replace the two clutch clips, they are rather brittle by this time (i pulled a couple 96-98 EJ's earlier this year and all the clips were rather frail....one was even missing), and they're like 2 bucks. i'd buy a clutch kit, which has everything you need. if you wanted a "perfect" job and to do it quick you could buy a used flywheel, have it machined and ready to drop in. rear main seal, just take special care replacing that. strange thing, that seal. i've seen a number of seasoned subaru people have that thing leak shortly after reinstalling (two are members of this board). if it's bone dry i would leave it. you might want to have a metal separator plate (and the associated screws for it, since they are different) in case hers is leaking. buy it locally and return it if you don't need it. Subaru dealers often need them so they always have them in stock. you might even look into a transmission jack rental for this.

as a last resort you could remove the other axle, unbolt the 4 axle bolts, and 3 diff hanging bolts/nuts and drop the thing off the car. working on it off the car should give you easy access to "persuade" it.

PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Deep Creep that thang. (WD40 is NOT a suitable alternative, those others are way better). soak it as much/often as you can, couple times a day. tap it with a hammer/chisel to try and knock the bonds loose. and heat is a good thing too, you'll want to heat the axle cup as quick as possible and try to yank it off before the stub begins to heat.

yeah i wouldn't think twice about swapping EJ racks...but i could be wrong, i would just assume they're the same based on some not quite related work. i think you are correct in saying the ratios will be the only differences. doesn't help you - but i use EJ steering rack bushings on XT6's, perfect fit, i think they change very little with the steering racks.

yes - non interference so you didn't do any damage. same pistons and valves as the EA82.

with the cap off you could have just cranked the motor and noticed the rotor not spinning or not spinning properly to indicate the bad belt as well with no extra work. glad you found it! the XT6 has far more room than an EA82...well 8 inches instead of 4"! i find it plenty of room to do a timing belt, but for your first time it's not a big deal. without the stupid EA82 style clutch fan it's much simpler. two bolts facing you hold the radiator in...then remove the hoses and fans or just unplug the fans and sensor down by the lower passengers side and pull the radiator out with them attached. after that timing belt install is identical to the EA82 except the drivers side tensioner is trickier. Sears sells the perfect right angle screw driver for making this a simple do-it-yourself job (it's the small one of a two part set from when i bought them). See my notes and pictures over on the xt forums. there are multiple ways to retract and hold it, but this is by far the simplest and most reproducable without any "whoops" or urging yourself to healthy doses of foul language! you'll want to check for significant oil leaks (cams, crank, and oil pump seals) and make sure all of your pulleys feel nice and smooth, not free wheeling and loud. oil soaks and ruins timing belts, bad pulley overheat and ruin them. i have a thread posted hear and on the xt forums on how to regrease the XT6 timing pulleys - they are much easier to do than EA82 pulleys based on the easy access to the seal covers. and XT6 pulleys are very expensive, far more expensive than EA82 stuff. personally, i'd get it all done now and be done with it - new cam seals (cam seals kits - be sure to replace the oring behind the seal too, not just the seal), crank seal, oil pump gasket and seal (no oring like the EA82 oil pump), water pump, regrease the timing pulleys, and a new belt.

the EGR code refers to a malfunction of the EGR system, not necessarily of the valve. there are a number of things that can cause the EGR code. the EGR valve itself, the solenoid valve associated with it or the junk with vacuum hoses everywhere on the passengers side strut tower including the little inline round filter on one of the vacuum hoses. so i would test the EGR and the solenoid first before buying parts like Skip said. i had an EGR issue that was solved by only replacing that little inline filter - cheap. also - if it is actually the EGR that's faulty, often just cleaning it out does the trick, it just gets gunked up.

sounds good. many on here have seen more EJ engines and worked on more than most repair shops. diagnosing/helping over the internet without seeing, hearing, touching, or smelling anything is a difficult task and we're much more needy!!! when something doesn't follow the 95% of what we normally see (say head gaskets in this case) we often question the diagnosis or the shop. there are plenty of questionable mechanics out there that make that a relevant point we can't ignore (sadly!). so statistically speaking it is more likely to have a shady repair shop than an EJ25 HG leak on all 4 cylinders, or an EJ25 of your vintage leak internally...not impossible, just more probable. but there are a lot of poor mechanics out there! also, those mechanics may not raise an eyebrow to an EJ25 leaking internally, they shouldn't. from 1996 - 1999 they do leak internally. i doubt they recognize the differences between an 96-99 EJ25 and a 2000-2002 EJ25, but the first phase leaks internally and the second leaks externally...."normally"!!! to us there's a difference, to a regular mechanic that works on many, many different vehicles, they probably lump those EJ25's together. that's what i assumed.

EJ22's are great, cheap maintenance and reliable. if you keep it from overheating and running out of oil you want have any major repair bills with it. what year, that makes a difference. and what mileage? yes make sure the transmission is good. search on "torque bind" in the new generation forum and read up on how to test for it. if it's a 1996 or earlier then it's a non interference and you'll want to replace the timing belt (unless you can verify it has already been replaced recently). if it's a 1997 or later then you'll want to replace the timing belt, water pump and at least the bad timing pulleys, if not all of them. i replace them all for good measure. if the timing belt breaks (due to old belt, old pulleys or water pump failing) the interference engine will sustain massive internal injuries. that means a new engine or extensive repairs bills. other than that these are solid, i made sure my wifes car had an EJ22 for very good reasons. 50,000 miles so far with no stranding or break downs and i expect many more.