idosubaru

EJ22's are great, cheap maintenance and reliable. if you keep it from overheating and running out of oil you want have any major repair bills with it. what year, that makes a difference. and what mileage? yes make sure the transmission is good. search on "torque bind" in the new generation forum and read up on how to test for it. if it's a 1996 or earlier then it's a non interference and you'll want to replace the timing belt (unless you can verify it has already been replaced recently). if it's a 1997 or later then you'll want to replace the timing belt, water pump and at least the bad timing pulleys, if not all of them. i replace them all for good measure. if the timing belt breaks (due to old belt, old pulleys or water pump failing) the interference engine will sustain massive internal injuries. that means a new engine or extensive repairs bills. other than that these are solid, i made sure my wifes car had an EJ22 for very good reasons. 50,000 miles so far with no stranding or break downs and i expect many more.

that's a large job (and chunk of money) to throw at an engine that doesn't seem to exhibit head gasket problems. hopefully...whatever it is, gets rectified with the head gasket job, but what i am almost sure of is that the head gaskets are not going to solve your problem. all of this work may, but it's not the head gaskets causing it. a CCR engine would not be much more than $2,900 and the entire thing would be warrantied by a trusted source. the savings and suspicious nature of this engine leads me to think that is a better route. i'm with nipper...bizarre information that is not making sense. they're giving you a warranty on this? that's strange too. makes me wonder if they didn't see a very straight forward and simple solution....i know i wouldn't warranty an engine with such strange behavior without knowing for 100% sure what was going on. just to clarify, it is seating the torque converter properly that is tricky with Subaru automatic tranmissions, not the torque converter seal as you mentioned.

i posted a picture and part number of a stock XT6 lighted Key blank on the other key blank thread. i think this EJ key should work just fine, can't they cut it properly to fit? if not the XT6 key should work, i'd imagine it's an EA style key....works in the XT6 and XT's...which are EA82's.

can someone please nominate him for the funniest USMB post of the year?? please, that was awesome....too much. i've had 5 deer in the trunk of an XT6 - picture attached. also had a complete EJ engine assembly and EJ22 automatic transmission in the trunk of an XT6 at the same time as well. it was sagging profusely but made the 60 mile trip nonetheless. had a 40 foot ladder hanging out the back of mine and drove it 250 miles like that. got pulled over and he only made me tie "more" flags to the end even though i had one. i don't know the official law but if there is any law against protruding out the back then it certainly broke it.

you could buy one of those and have it cut for your loyale. the XT6 came with a lighted key like that. i posted a picture of one with the light on.

maybe that depends on the area? i think craigslist is 'okay' in the baltimore/DC/PA area. i do both, locally and craigslist. on craigslist i indicate who the vehicle is good for - someone who doesn't want to have to do the maintenance any time soon, like the ones you sell. i think with craigslist you expand your market, which attracts more low ballers and people looking for a deal, but it also expands your market for the few that are looking for a car they can't really buy anywhere else - some people see "new timing belt, water pump, timing pulleys, tensioner, hoses, clamps, brakes, clutch" and see that as a a great opportunity. they're the minority and like you said more of a minority on craigslist, but they are out there. detailing out everything you've done and why you're asking top dollar seems to limit low-ballers so far for me. last vehicle i sold was on craigslist and i got a great price for it.

if this is the case then you need to make absolutely sure that it's not a leak somewhere. and like Miles said have the mechanic check the intake gaskets, particularly if the one side was replaced before. if you do end up doing the head gaskets and they're pulling the engine then you'll want: clutch replaced including both retaining clips, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate and clutch. all of that should come in a clutch kit except possibly the retaining clips. for an automatic you'd replace the front torque converter seal. i always replace the ring-seal around the shaft as well but that's not necessary on this vehicle. be very careful and make sure the mechanic knows how to seat a Subaru torque converter seal, they are a bit tricky and are broken sometimes by people that don't know how to get the last 1/4" seated.

i was thinking $500 as well, that is what i would personally pay as well. but $1,000 is not a bad deal at all under certain circumstances. keep in mind $1 is way too much for someone who's time is worth a lot of money. and $2,000 might be worth it for someone who doesn't have a job but could use a project to make $500 rent.

ha, ha, that's why i used quotes too! it's a pseudo crank angle sensor until your drivers side timing belt breaks! Nuclearbacon - if it ends up not being something simple join us on the XT forums. i have a write up over there on how to permanently fix the coolant temperature sensor he mentioned above. cleaning it essentially means it'll come back, even replacing the sensor means it'll come back.

Unfortunately the mechanic can not diagnose the head gasket when it's inspected unless it's bad enough for him to detect. He could tell you it's perfect and the head gasket could let loose tomorrow. People do buy them and have this happen not long afterwards, just be prepared and don't max your credit out to buy it. There's always the option of trying to find out if they have already been replaced.

yes, any 90-94 legacy should interchange as far as i know.

timing belt. and yes your Xt6 has a "Crank Angle Sensor" if that's not it, post the code and was any work done on it recently?

$1,000 look up what they are selling for locally, subtract what you'd like to make on reselling it, subtract a rough parts estimate and that's what you want to buy it for.

racks are very easy if you end up replacing it. keep in mind you'll want to keep your steering wheel lined up straight when you install the rack. as soon as you disconnect the steering linkage from the rack it'll just flop around and you'll have to line it back up properly. do this before you snug everything up because that linkage doesn't come back off easily.

"how much is my $7,000 car worth for insurance reasons?" $7,000??? or add in a bit more for your time. ask your insurance company to insure it for whatever you want to insure it for. look at it like life insurance, the more you want, the more you pay. there's no magical formula or way to ascertain "value", nor does it matter.

i have two and both are the same 16" i believe they're the same as most other 16" subaru wheels - the 16" WRX wheels, the newer Legacy 16" wheels, because they all take the same size tire.

no joke, that is literally how i learned just about everything. no family or friends here worked on cars, it was learn as you go for me. certainly made it fun, lots of learning the hard way too. as for a few posts ago about swapping to an EJ22 - that is an option.

HEY - is this vehicle still qualified for Subaru's extended head gasket replacement campaign - that's up to 100,000 miles on some 2000-2002 EJ25's...sounds like his may be??? Just for giggles you might want to check the backside of your engine assembly. The external leaks like your 2001 have are very obvious but do not necessarily cause puddles on the ground. They actually leak very slow at the rear of the engine and run down the back of the engine. It can run down the engine, motor mounts, cross member and burn off before really hitting the ground. My guess is the old stuff is ignition related and the newest stuff is a different problem - loss of coolant was an external leak that was slow and went unnoticed until the coolant level dropped too much. hard to say over the internet without seeing anything, but based on EJ's and 2001...and what i'm reading i think that's the most likely scenario . Your 2001 is a candidate for the Subaru coolant additive, it should have had the coolant additive added to it (that is for 2000 - 2002 EJ25's, not earlier ones).

remove it and inspect, the ones i've seen that are bad are brittle with age and may even fall apart upon removal. check the wiring harness plug and the sensor itself for any signs of cracking or corrosion. probably a continuity or resistance check to do on the sensor to but i don't know the spec's.

i checked out that link but it didn't seem to offer much for my situation, maybe i'll look at it again later? and yes, normally i am all about keeping the intake wiring harness and goods with the vehicle, that is simplest for sure. the plot thickens - the EJ25 manifold i was using actually doesn't have the charcoal canister stuff up front either, i forgot i had two of them like this. i don't feel like taking the intake manifold off the engine that came out of the car because it's a perfectly running EJ25 and i'd rather keep it that way. so i'm going to drop this non-EGR and non-charcoal-up-front intake manifold on and see what happens. they're easy enough to swap out if i don't like the results. any idea what problems that will cause not having those 3 charcoal canister lines? are they emissions only? they don't affect fuel flow or the engine?

there's another one out there that's a bit different than this one, cooler in my opinion but i'm biased. XT6's all came with a lighted key blank as well and they are still available i think. i bought 4 or 5 last year.

man, i missed all the fun. craziness. get on the phone with emily, from CCR, now and she'll help you with EJ25's. realistically speaking you could use a bunch of different EJ25's and you're not going to notice a lick of difference if you just bolt your intake manifold on top of the block. but there's no reason not to get the same year/style EJ25. again you can ask emily but the DOHC i believe has a few more horses, maybe she could comment on extended reliability? yes, no problem with CCR, they are great i am glad you are going that route. as far as what happened to this motor, i don't think the initial problems were HG related. you keep saying cylinder 3 CEL - so that was probably a "Cylinder #3 misfire" code. if that's the case, that is almost always related to the ignition. in my experience it is usually the spark plug wires and could be the plugs or ignition coil itself. on EJ engines only, the wires must be Subaru only and the plugs should definitely be NGK only. i've seen brand new ones cause cylinder misfire codes on EJ engines and it's well known amongst Subaru boards and wire manufacturers like Magnecor that the EJ motors are not very forgiving when it comes to plugs and wires. so i think your CEL was something ignition related, not the head gasket. head gasket failures get worse rather quickly, except the "typical" failures that you 01 year sees, they leak externally and can be driven for extended periods of time with no overheating unless it gets low on coolant. another interesting tid-bit is that your 01 style EJ25 does not typically leak internally, they leak externally down the back side of the head to block mating area. the 1996-1999 EJ25's leak internally, later years leak externally. those earlier years also overheat immediately and get worse very quickly. so that even makes me think more that this wasn't a head gasket, at least not in the past. now what happened recently, the loss of coolant, i have no idea what happened there but you're positive there was no external leaking?

good to know W, thanks. i'll give it a look later. so you have seen one without the charcoal canister stuff up front and it was a 1995? thanks for replying, it's a bit frustrating that no one else has seen this or is responding!

for those prices he needs to contact CCR - look them up . Colorado Component Rebuilders. get a new engine with warranty, top-notch subaru only rebuilders, they are members here. a dealer replacing ONE head gasket - i don't know the full story there but if any dealer recommended or offered to do "one head gasket" i would leave immediately and never return until the service department was rid of their stupidity. that's rediculous. now onto his current situation, i'm wondering if he can even trust the dealer if it's the same one that replaced "one" head gasket. in any event, i highly doubt it's leaking on all 4 cylinders, that is a bit much. but if your friend drove it repeatedly, often or far while overheating it is possible. "cracked block" is highly unlikely. i've heard of dealers offering this diagnosis and it's more protection than it is truth. really there's no way to gaurantee that the block is not cracked. it rarely does crack and dealers that say this are just protecting themselves. imagine saying "you need new head gaskets" - which is ture 98 percent of the time - and then having an owner come back with a cracked block after spending $1,500 to replace their head gaskets. NOT HAPPY is the result. i think to avoid that many dealers just throw their hands up and say "cracked block". but they are definitely not diagnosing properly because i can't stress enough how odd leaking in all 4 cylinders and having a cracked block would be. now if your friend drove this thing a lot over heating or hot, then all bets are off.

you're probably right, but swapping the wiring harness looked like a major PITA. not too mention the EJ25 has the EGR stuff on it, and EGR is crap. swapping that fuel rail and all those metal lines looked like a bear...is it?? i guess compared to an engine/trans swap it should be cake, ha ha. i do have plenty of EJ25 stuff and the one that came out of the vehicle, so i'll look at it again, did not look appetizing the first time i considered it. if i swapped the EGR equipped EJ25 do you think i could just leave it unplugged, i don't care about the codes. it would be interesting to do that and somehow find one of these mysterious (THAT I USED TO HAVE...GRRR) non-EGR EJ22's. i should theoretically be able to install that non EGR EJ22 ECU and be golden, right?