idosubaru

yes, i know this is old...but rather than start a new thread: my legacy barely idles, cuts out unless i give it gas and won't hold RPM if i hold the gas pedal in one position, it will die unless i'm varying the gas pedal position. barely moveable if i try to drive it. i had the exhaust off and was banging it, jarring it, slamming it to get a tool out that fell in it....nipper suggests i might have a fouled up converter. car/engine ran fine before the engine swap and this exhaust "work". if this is the cause of running this bad will the lack of pulses out the tail pipe be obvious? don't think i can get it idling long enough to check though. can i unbolt it from the headers and run it without the exhaust to test? i know the older generation soobs run fine like that..very, very, annoyingly loud, but you can at least drive them a mile without any exhaust just to check. same with the EJ stuff? i know all that abuse i gave it could have knocked the converter loose, but would that really cause it to "clog" like this right away?

don't bother with the JB weld, it'll be a waste of time. DO NOT USE AN EZOUT. you break that off inside you're crank and you're really in for a world of hurt. please don't use it, yes it might work. but they are very, very brittle and break easily. seen it happen many times, and getting a stuck EZ OUT removed is a PITA. do not follow anecdotal advice on this one, just because it "has" and "can" work does not mean the risk is worth it. EZ outs are horrid, i personally think the things should be illegal. if the EZOUT works, the method below will work as well, i gaurantee it...and without the risk. ALSO...the twisted style EZ outs suck also because they make your job harder if they don't work. as you tigthen they force the remaining material "out" and make the bolt tighter inside the bore of the hole...making further efforts more difficult if it doesn't work. spend the effort and time waiting for a left handed cobalt drill bit (or a couple in different sizes). that bolt isn't in there very tight, it might just back it out. any drill should have a "reverse" setting, you don't need a special drill to drill "left handed". all you need is a basic drill, a right angle attachment (or just a right angle drill) and the left handed drill bit. so long as the drill has a reverse on it...which all of mine do, never seen one that doesnt, you're golden. a right handed bit would work fine and that's the route i would go, i wouldn't wait, but being your first time dealing with this i'm trying to be cautious for you. as a last resort...you can always continue drilling out...drill one small hole, then one or two more sizes bigger until the bolt literally falls apart...that will always work. i would save time by doing one of the following below though. i would drill a hole, then insert needle nose pliers into it...then "open" them while they're in the hole and see if they bite enough to turn the bolt. if that doesn't work i'd plan on threading a bolt inside the hole with some locktite. let it set and use a socket to turn it out. i think that's the easiest solution and won't be prone to causing trouble if something goes wrong. just don't use some high grade steel bolt that's difficult to drill or anything just in case. here's the best method for keeping it centered: get some tube the same diameter as the crank shaft hole. drill a hole in the center of it for your drill bit. fit this in the crank bolt hole and drill the crank bolt through it....this will keep it centered. or....use a dremel tool if there's room, to grind a flat area to keep center. or use a punch to create a center divot to start the drilling. or use a very tiny drill bit to start the hole.

H6 engines are very expensive. i'd expect $2,000 minimum for a used one in good condition, low miles. also - being a 6 cylinder, a completely redesigned engine i'm guessing the electronics are not interchangeable. in other words you can't just drop it in, the wiring, and ECU would need work most likely. i'm not positive though, i know of only one H6 swap and i don't know the details on it. the easier option is probably a turbo, but i don't know how good of an idea that is on your 2.5. those are known for head gasket problems, so all that additional pressure and heat probably isn't a good thing. the non-turbo 2.2's are very easy to install a turbo on though with great results as well.

so long as you have a working center differential lock it will work fine. a PT4WD trans or locking center diff full time 4WD box will do it.

are you sure his is rod knock and not just the oil pump, valve train noise? a few dollars in oil pump seals and tightening the screws on the back of the oil pump may fix it. the backing screws typically loosen up. other than that, you can swap 95 2.2's. the only issue you may have is the EGR valve. the automatics have an EGR while the manuals do not. if yours doesn't have an EGR valve but you find a block that does, you'll just have to screw a plug in the EGR port in the head and use your existing intake manifiold. easy. this should be the case if your current vehicle is a manual trans and you use a 95 EJ22 from an automatic. if yours has an EGR valve then you'll likely want to get a 95 EJ22 from an automatic with EGR stuff on it for a direct swap. technically you could use a non-EGR valve EJ22, by using your intake manifold and probably drilling and tapping the head for your EGR pipe. if you're willing to remove your EGR altogether, you can really do whatever you want. if you want a very direct swap, check notes above. if you want to use the EJ25, just reuse the existing EJ25 heads and have them checked and milled at a machine shop. find a local shop that's done some subaru heads and they'll be very familiar with subaru heads. given this type of work, if you can do it, the machine shop doesn't charge much to check and mill the heads. as a last resort, just get a set of EJ25 heads from somewhere and use those.

XT ECU's and wiring suck. try a non XT ECU? i've had trouble getting my swapped XT "turbo" to run right. maybe the ECU is bad? does the fuel pump prime with the turbo ECU? plug the test connectors in and see if you can hear the fuel pump prime, it should prime everything 3 seconds or something like that, it's easy to hear.

wow, that is crazy. im really sorry to hear that. i don't even use a torque wrench i know i go way over the 125 mark with my 3 foot breaker bar...and i've never seen one break. i would imagine the stresses that it has been through weakened it. well this isn't the end of the world, you can do this. doesn't require anything major and i gaurantee you this bolt will come out. actually it's not even seized, old or rusted, this won't be bad at all. i've extracted seized, 2 decaded old, rusted, weaked, bolts before and gotten them out. this won't be bad. i agree with mike, i would immediately try to back it out. if you have any metal to grab on to you can use vise grips or a monkey wrench. you might try grabbing it and turning it with anything you can. maybe you can JB weld something to the end...let it dry and see if that holds enough to back it out? needle nose pliers maybe? those ideas probably won't work. there are a few options. remove the radiator and get as much room to work as you can. like he just said, it's not in there all that tight with the head sheared off. the easiest way and what i would do is tack weld a bolt onto the sheared off end. let it cool down and back it out with the bolt you just welded on. this is by far the quickest and easiest method and will work every time here as the crank and bolt are easy to weld on. if you can't weld or don't know anyone else that can, then it's time to get a cobalt drill bit (available at any home improvement store). drill into the sheared off crank pulley. then tap it and thread a smaller bolt into the hole with some locktite or JB weld. yo'ure trying to permanently fix the bolt to the remaining crank bolt. let it dry and then back it out with a socket wrench. you may also drill two holes big enough for needle nose pliers to fit in, insert them into the two holes and turn the bolt out. you will have to order one as they rarely have them available locally unless you have good supply stores, but i would get left handed cobalt drill bits. in this case it will be worth it to you as you want this to be as simple as possible. often just drilling with a lefthanded bolt will cause the bolt to back out since it's drilling while turning it "out". be sure if you do any drilling or welding to let it cool down, as the bolt will be expanded and probably harder to get out when it's hot. you'll probably also need a right angle drill or right angle drill attachment (that's what i have for the front of the engine stuff like this and it works fine).

wasn't trying to knock your methods, but in my experience JB weld is a very low percentage fix. yes, i've seen it work too. but i've seen it fail as well. in areas that experience any type of load or vibration i would not use it. it is strong, but it's brittle as well.

i always mill the heads, it's not that expensive and worth the increased success rate...particularly on that motor. might be worth having the head checked. if it checks out bad but isn't out of tolerance for milling this engine may be fine. his statement inferred that 2.2 and 2.5 stuff wasn't interchangeable and that's not true, so i wanted to clarify that before anyone started asking questions.

that's not normal and will only confuse the original poster. he's wanting to put a 2.2 in a 2.5, the wiring and ECU will not be an issue. drop in an EJ22 and it will fire...assuming everything is working properly.

this is probably salvagable and you can do it yourself. DO NOT use JB weld or locktite thread goop on this. i don't care that it "might" work or that anecodotal cases were successful, this is a low percentage solution given it's your oil pump. please do not do that, at least not yet. there is no need to remove the engine and you can do this yourself. here's what you really should do: first get a tap and die. a tap creates threads, use it to clean the original threads in the block. just take a bolt into the store and check the size/thread. get the right tap and die. use the tap to chase the threads in the block. run the tap in and out a few times, making the threads squeaky clean. turn it a bit, back it off, turn it in more, back it off, it's a gradual process. this will gaurantee your bolt and holes have identical threads and that they are clean. now...find out how deep the holes are, i've done this a number of times and while i've never done an EJ22 oil pump hole, every other one i've ever done, the hole is deeper than the original bolt. so....with clean threads, figure out how deep the holes are and buy bolts that are the right length. you want to use bolts that are longer than stock, but don't bottom out. you'll reach new, unused threads that way...as well as using the original threads that you just chased and cleaned up. you might need to buy some that are too long and cut them to size or use washers under the heads for extra clearance. a dremel, sawzall, or cutting wheel works fine for cutting the bolt...then after cutting chase it with the die so the threads are nice and cleaned up. i've done this numerous times, it saves a ton of effort and works perfectly. no drilling the block or using a helicoil and no shady attempts at getting locktite to work. in the event the holes aren't any deeper than the original bolts (keeping in mind some of the length of the bolt is taken up by the thickness of the oil pump), then you can do all of this, chase the block and bolt threads and still try to use those. you might get lucky. but....i'm guessing the holes are at least a little bit deeper....the've always been on water pump bolts, timing pulleys...etc. i know that sounds long, but it's not all that difficult. you also might be able to find a standard size bolt/thread option that can be tapped within the size of that hole. i've done that before as well. you'll looking for a size that's just a little bit bigger than what the current size is. you can probably even go up one metric size bolt...if it's a 6mm now, go to a 7mm. buy a tap for the 7mm and tap each hole. buy new bolts and go to town. those are two methods that don't require any drilling into the block and you can easily do yourself. if for some reason you can't pull this off there are other options...helicoil isn't all that bad and can be done with the engine in the car. rent a right angle drill or get a right angle drill attachment (preferably a very short one for clearance). i've had to do this before and it will work as well. you don't need to drill much, just enough to get one insert in there, not the entire bolt depth.

uhhh...you'd probably just replace the bearing while it's apart. given that they aren't that expensive, the labor will be the high cost and you'll have to buy new seals anyway. while it's apart and paying the labor, i'd just install new bearings. but technically...they probably could regrease and reseal the old bearings.

on the EJ25, did you use Subaru headgaskets and did you replace both sides? were the heads checked and milled?

make sure the emergency brake is off, it's on the rear wheels. disconnect the driveshaft and spin the rear diff. rear diffs usually make lots of noise and rarely bind, so it's probably the center viscous but you are wise to make sure first.

while your center diff was binding you should have pulled the front two axles and driven it in rear wheel drive. just a joke, mostly.. i'd want to double check that axle nut on the left side (side that the wheel bearing wasn't replaced on), that might be an overlooked item. after that it's straight forward and a shop should be able to find it...wheel bearing, ball joint, axle....

the flywheel sheeared off, outer ring remaining on the torque converter and rest remaining on the engine? that is definitely not common, i would bet someone did something to cause that. neither is trashed. replace the flexplate and fix the crank and you're golden. there's a company that makes a kit to repair damaged cranks, or just make it work yourself it's not all that complicated. be very careful seating the transmission, they are very tricky to seat the final 1/4". tons of information on here, i've posted about a dozen times, just don't assume it's seated when it won't go further and don't tighten the bolts to pull it the final 1/4". there's a geared shaft end that needs to engage and it won't until it lines up just right for that last 1/4". do it wrong and you're looking at replacing the trans oil pump (not fun) if not the entire trans.

CV joints/axles can make noises but anything other than clicking or basic CV noises isn't very common. but....how long did you drive with binding issues? that puts additional load on the axle joints and could contribute in some way. two important questions: is the noise centrally located or can you tell it's towards one side? did it do this at all before the trans work? seems like if it's the left bearing you would hear it on that side? make sure the axle nut doesn't look like it backed off on the side they replaced the wheel bearing. if they replaced the wheel bearings, the axle had to come out. the nut could just be loose, might be hard to tell by looking. i would check this first since they worked on it. after that i'd check the ball joint boot, that only takes a minute and no tools, then jack the wheel up and see if there's any play in the hub, grab it and try to shake the wheel.

hey, check out the bottom left of this page right now...no need to click anything. at the bottom left corner is an automated "search" function that shows similar threads to the current one you're viewing. one of them in that list has some very good information in it, including someone saying that their mechanic said replacing the viscous coupling was "easy". check those out.

wow you've replaced front 4EAT diffs or are you talking about the rear transfer clutches? i'd love to hear more about that if it's the front diff. someone has FSM info and lots of trans info posted somewhere, that may help if you need that, but i'm not sure where it is.

whoops. it's an 89 wagon (not a legacy) 4WD (that's what the owner said, i haven't seen it yet, just pic's and no interior pics), 5 speed: i haven't seen it in person, just pic's. i assume it's PT4WD. i have a PT4WD trans from an XT, are they the same trans? bad/loose shifter linkage will prevent it from going into other gears fine but not reverse? like i said, i have a spare PT4WD trans so i'm not that worried about it.

mike, it will most likely be a wheel bearing or ball joint. if it tends to happen at a particular angle...say at 1/3 of a wheel turn on certain ramps, etc...i'd expect a ball joint. a wheel bearing is more likely. a little more descriptive of the sound? you say "roar"...that's a very common term used by someone who is experiencing a failing wheel bearing. i think i saw that you already replaced your trans right? was there any sign of this before the trans swap? make sure that axle nut is properly tigthened. it may have backed off until the divot or pin...i think yours has the divot style, catches it. so it would appear tight, but have backed off some. or it's not tigth enough, but they have it pinned properly. though they didn't remove the nut for the trans swap unless something strange happened.

got a lead on a 89 wagon (edited - not a loyale), non-turbo, 4WD for a friend of mine. reverse does not work. does that mean the trans is hosed? there's nothing simple that would be right? manual trans, AWD. also - i have a PTWD non turbo trans from an XT, that should be a direct swap right? both are non-turbo. if reverse doesn't work, but everything else does, is there any danger in trying to drive it 150 miles to my house?

not sure what your options are on the front. have you looked in the off road forum at all? those guys do all sorts of things. i really hate the way the front EA82 struts mount.

stop into any muffler or exhaust shop and they'll have what you need. they often just give you one or charge you chump change for it and they'll definitely have what you need.

this should help, with an excellent light source and after removing the spark plugs you can actually see the valves opening/closing through the spark plug holes. being the up front cylinder, #2 should be easy to see. i'd like to see a compression test as well.