idosubaru

thermostat tested fine in boiling water and was removed for testing so that's ruled out. good call, forgot to mention that.

i'd have an aftermarket transmission cooler installed. i install one on every auto trans i own. well worth the $30. bypass the stock crap cooling lines through the radiator, they may be your problem. i'd probably source another TCU at this point to that way most everything trans related is replaced. not sure if a TCU can cause issues like early failure but i'd consider replacing it. are they replacing the torque converter when they replace the trans? are they inspecting the flexplate too? i suspect they'd pick up on that if it had issues.

that's also what i wanted, a one belt pulley instead of two. i have A/C, but i have electric power steering so i don't have a belt driven pump. since i'm running electric p/s i probably want to maintain alt speed as well, so that would be nice to address with the alt pulley. could you undredrive the water pump pulley to or is that likely not necessary? that's so small i'll get another cut out of steel if need be. my ideal set up would be a one piece pulley with only one belt like you're talking about. that would rock as i don't think i need two belts.

thanks guys. water pump - thought i got the right one, looked over multiple threads about the different pumps. if the belt fits right and lines up that doesnt' mean it's the right one? i thought only the shaft length/pulley styles were different? funny thing - i bought the right water pump for an XT Turbo - but who knows what this JDM engine is on. can all the pulleys/belts line up perfect but it still be the wrong water pump? anyway to verify i have the right water pump? think i chucked the old one. pretty sure i got all the air out. did the fill, refill, squeeze the hose and all that jazz. but i'll try again. with system full i pulled the hose at the thermostat and not one drop came out with the engine running. water was sputtering/moving a tiny bit in the thermostat housing, but that could have just been engine vibrations/heat. thanks

you're looking for a manual transmission? not too hard to find a FWD manual transmission. i posted a thread awhile ago and got two replies with people selling. can definitley be had inexpensively and are quite reliable....for normal use. not sure on power handling. except to say the newer models (EJ series, 2.2 liter engines for instance) have higher output motors so i'd assume the trans is up to it. but the older 4WD trans hold up well too, i'd assume the 2WD are similar in design. might want to give a run-down of how much power you're expecting to push through it.

i never said they were? that's what PM's are for. not sure why you're patronizing. you've mentioned your stance, i don't see a need to use derogatory remarks. i'm not trying to argue or say you're wrong? it wasn't completely on-topic, but that is a matter of oppinion. topic is about interest in a lightened crank pulley. if someone posted "anyone interested in some EA82 lifters?", i would not post a diatribe every time about the difference in lifters and hydraulic valve lash adjusters. frankly i wouldn't read it because i'm not interested in any EA82 lifters at this time. now for aluminum crank pulleys i'm interested in those.

got this JDM motor and it starts to run hot. the radiator/hoses don't get warm at all. the water pump side gets a little warm i think but the radiator for the most part stays cool. brand new water pump, thermostat, hoses and no leaks. water pump is spinning when the engine is running. the radiator appears good and flows fine with a garden hose flowing in one end. i inspected it off the car - hose on one end, comes out the other. so the radiator isn't the hold up. when i pull the radiator cap or the hose at the thermostat and crank the motor - coolant doesn't come out. seems like the water pump isn't moving the coolant or something is major clogged internally? neither of those hardly seem possible though. even a bad water pump or clog would at least allow some water to get through? anyone ever seen a new water pump that can't pump any water?

mine is on a good engine so i don't want to get rid of it. nor would i trust my abilities to measure it. i got tape measures, nothing fancy in that department.

might have a tough time finding someone who's replaced these. they don't go bad often, particularly a 99. the older ones aren't too hard. i think there are two "hidden screws" to remove the plastic cover. the dealer may let you take a look at the FSM which will show the procedure for removing them. FSM is also available for purchase, they are excellent but steep in price. there are also Haynes manuals available for $20 or so that may have some good information in it. they are manufacturer and model specific for the most part. any auto parts store should carry these and maybe you can have a look in it to see if it gives wiper motor replacement instructions.

the large font also makes your discussion threads longer (page wise) and harder to sift through. it'll be easier in the long run. i'd plan to use an entire WRX engine, wiring and ECU. using the existing wiring would be a chore. if you want to use the existing wiring get the FSM or relevant FSM wiring diagrams and sort them out one at a time. label them meticulously.

i agree. you're addressing off-topic items i was trying to stay on topic for this persons interest, so i felt the lengthy definitions were not necessary. your input on the subaru design being necessary is on-topic, he may be interested in that. i do have the EJ22 item you're looknig for that i could pull off and send you, but i would want it back soon. can you ship it back to me?

XT6 engine (ER27) will fit. it won't be a plug and play type swap. the wiring harness/ECU are different. you can swap in an entire XT6 wiring harness and ECU. that's the hardest part is the wiring. not sure what transmission is in the loyale but some transmissions use the TPS and the loyale and XT6 TPS are completely different, i do not know if this would be an issue or not. the front XT6 engine mount will not have the receptacle/mounting holes necessary on your loyale, but i could be wrong. the EA82's didn't have a front engine mount and i don't recall seeing anything there to accept the XT6 front engine mount. the radiator is larger and the water pump pipe and water return pipes are larger as well. you can either use reducers to try and get your existing radiator to work or upgrade to XT6 stuff. i'd guess the XT6 being larger and coming equipped with a larger cooling capacity should probably dictate going with the larger items. XT6 radiators are not available aftermarket (some sites list them, but they will just be 4 cylinder radiators) and they cost $600 at the dealer or order them through online Subaru parts specialists for $300.

sounds like you didn't ever overheat the thing really. new gaskets, have the heads tested by a machine shop and you're golden. get the engine oil changed at least twice as soon as possible like nipper said in case any coolant in the oil.

i was explaining it for those that don't know and the possible failure mode associated with the design. crank pulley, harmonic balancer, harmonic damper are frequently used to describe each other without much thought.

definitely buy new, these are a safety hazzard if the end joint breaks you loose control of the car. scarry looking if you've ever seen it. tie rod is easy to replace. just a castle nut and ball joint on one end connected to the hub and a large nut connecting it to the steering rack/inner tie rod. essentially only have to remove 2 nuts, that's it. if you carefully note where the nut is located on the old tie rod, you can get the new tie rod installed almost identically in place and probably avoid the need for an alignment. to save some posting and tangent replies, others here will strongly disagree and say go for an alignment. i let my tires tell me if i need an alignment as i have to rotate and inspect them often anyway (AWD you know), and i've never had to get an alignment. i've got about well over 200,000 total miles on subaru's with never getting alignments and my tires wear perfectly. alignments are cheap but hey if i don't need it and don't need to waste my time then all the better. and that's one thing i can't do myself, so avoids my car from ever going into the shop. so, go with what you feel comfortable with. if you don't feel you can do a good job installing the new one exactly the same as the old or don't pay much attention to your tires then get the alignment. i'd get a used set of hubs and rebuild them with new seals/bearings/grease then you can swap them in place of your old hubs and not have as much down time. that's how i do it.

overheating the engine is very bad regardless of the cause, so yes driving it if it's running hot is a bad idea. radiators are super easy to install. can't get much easier. once the fans are off (easy), there's like two bolts holding it in place. it has "legs" that seat in the radiator support on the bottom and two bolts up top. sometimes have to retract one bolt facing "UP" on the top radiator cross member just to keep it from catching as you remove it. so...remove hoses, fans and two bolts and you're done. make sure it's a clogged radiator. let the car warm up and drive for a bit. once it is warm you should be able to feel both hoses getting really hot. if the radiator is clogged it's likely the drives side will be hot and the passengers side will be cool. if both sides are hot then the radiator is likely good. feel the radiator itself too. hate to see you dump money/time in a radiator and that not fix the problem.

typically head gasket replacement is fine, fix the valves if any are damaged. if the car was abused, driven overheating extensively then there's no telling.

Vehicle? Mileage? has the fluid ever been changed? does the POWER light blink multiple times when you first start the car? i'd check fluid level and look to have it changed if it never has.

what kind of car this is for? year, model and engine.

there you go, this swap sounds easier and easier the more i hear. the broader the year gap between the SOHC and DOHC, the more i'd look into it. once you find a suitable SOHC, you should verify the year and any changes between 97 and the year you have.

we can banter all day long but aluminum parts for this application are perfectly acceptable. cast iron is cheaper than aluminum and the use of more expensive material for that part doesn't fit in their design philosophy for whatever reason. just because subaru didn't use it doesn't mean it's not acceptable. that's horrible logic. subaru, or any other car manufacturer does not make decisions solely on reliability or performance. many cars get better gas mileage, performance and reliabilty out of non-OEM parts or designs. why...well i could speculate but that's the manufacturers call, not mine. the OEM design is good (in subaru's case, can't say that about them all....ha ha...) and not a bad thing and i wouldn't fault anyone for sticking with it. but to say everything else is inferior is not valid.

i'm confused, power doesn't get out of snow does it? are you sure it wasn't burning rubber smell? i've been off road in snow and ice and with enough spinning on hard ice the tires will start to burn and smell. sounds like your clutch is slipping if you're smelling it? clutch slipping or not engaged fully or needs adjustment. are any of those possibilities? there are ways to test the clutch....does it ever slip on a start up a steep hill?

i have not done this swap, but have pulled some EJ motors. i am not positive but will offer my oppinion. i find it hard to believe this isn't a drop in swap. swap the entire engine assembly into your existing car. it should be plug and play, no need for an ECU change. swap the entire long block, intake and everything. the only issues you may have are the exhaust. if they are different, just get the exhaust manifold for the SOHC engine you install and it should bolt right up. a long shot - is the wiring harness on the engine different? i highly doubt it, but if it was you could likely swap your old DOHC engine harness onto the SOHC engine. 2.2 swaps into the 2.5 cars are done regularly without much issues, they plug and play, retain the same ECU and have no issues. certain years require bringing the 2.2 exhaust manifold with it, but those bolt right up to the rest of the "2.5" vehicle exhaust after the headers. bolt on swap. and they plug right in as well. if the 2.2 swaps are easy, i can't imagine going from 2.5 DOHC to SOHC is that big of a deal.

get a used one if all else fails. i'm not sure about copper and "bellow", and what exactly that is so i can't really comment.

i don't like the stock design. it incorporates two pieces of metal separated by a thin rubber ring. this rubber deteriorates and will fail at some point. the stock OEM pulley can separate and is a reliability concern. people have run aluminum pulleys with no issues for a long time. a properly torqued pulley will not spin off. it's a cast iron crank and bolt, torque the nuts out of them and they will not budge. they claim small percentage HP and mileage, that's fine but i like the reliability of a one piece design more. if they made a one-piece cast iron pulley i'd favor that over the stock POS. incorporating possible failure modes for little to no gain in funcionality is stupidity to me, but i am an engineer prone to focus on minute details noone else cares about!