idosubaru

i'd imagine this is in the same place as the XT6 TCU. it's behind the drivers side rear seat side panel. remove the panel and the TCU is semi-tucked away behind the metal shell. that's where the XT6 is and i have a suspicion this one would be as well. first check the transmission pan. the sump is REALLY tight to the bottom of the pan, if the pan is dented you could have restricted oil flow. doubtful, but easy to check. if the TCU was to blame i'd suspect a blinking POWER light when you start the car, but wouldn't be too surprised if it didn't either. if it is blinking, find the procedure for pulling the TCU codes. it's a rediculous procedure but would be very good to know if the POWER light is blinking that indicates it has a stored code. i'd pull the transmission hose and bypass the radiator, it could be clogged. install an aftermarket transmission cooler or just run one hose from and to each inlet/outlet of the ATF pipes to temporarily check it. i'd start looking for/keeping your eye out for another trans in case....

i'm with you on that one. i'd find it hard to believe that i would have not noticed. i looked at it a good bit since i wanted to make sure it was the right EA82 pump so i think i would have noticed if it was plastic, that would be too weird. i'll post back for sure.

in my oppinion it is best to completely bypass the piss poor factory side tank lines and just use the dedicated cooler. a stand alone cooler will far exceed the cooling capacity of the radiator tank. and no need for the extra hoses, routing and clamps, just something else to leak. frankly i run one entire hose from the transmission to the cooler, just to have fewer clamps. some Subaru's have a hose to a metal line to the cooler. i remove the metal lines and install one piece rubber hose. don't think that's necessary but fewer clamps are better for me. Advanced Auto parts has a complete kit for $29.99, i think that's what they run and that's the smallest size they have. the smallest size they have is more than adequate for any subaru. they come with plastic things that poke through the radiator, but i don't use them. i don't like messing with my radiators and you have to cut them off to remove the radiator. i use zip-ties and tie them the end of one coil to the center support where the hood latches and use another on the other end by the hoses to hold it in place and the hoses where i want them.

right on!! i'm still thinking EA82!

this is jacked up (also known as BS!!!) plan is to pull the hoses, the water pump, heater core lines and see where water wants to flow and where it doesn't. and check the water pump out. thanks again.

an 1997 impreza EJ22 with AWD automatic gets 26-27 all highway miles. i'd think a manual FWD is capable of low 30's. there's some interesting fuel mileage threads on here that might be an interesting read. i'd bet someone with a FWD EJ18 has posted there.

what car? i don't recall seeing a valve on the XT6, XT Turbo and RX Turbo fuel pumps i've removed.

so if you get the engine harness and ECU you should be golden. i have the engine side harness and ECU as well....it'd all be the same car and would have to work...heck i'll send the entire intake manifold with the wiring on it which will bolt to your EA82T.

so the water pump is correct. that's nice news.

from a search i just did (on a thread that i started!!!) subyrally said: "86 wont fit the harness from an 87 or newer car."

i'll give the hose through the engine a try, will it come out even with the water pump bolted on or do i have to remove that? anyone know if i could have the wrong pump installed? belts/pulleys all line up perfectly. are the impellers different?

thermostat tested fine in boiling water and was removed for testing so that's ruled out. good call, forgot to mention that.

i'd have an aftermarket transmission cooler installed. i install one on every auto trans i own. well worth the $30. bypass the stock crap cooling lines through the radiator, they may be your problem. i'd probably source another TCU at this point to that way most everything trans related is replaced. not sure if a TCU can cause issues like early failure but i'd consider replacing it. are they replacing the torque converter when they replace the trans? are they inspecting the flexplate too? i suspect they'd pick up on that if it had issues.

that's also what i wanted, a one belt pulley instead of two. i have A/C, but i have electric power steering so i don't have a belt driven pump. since i'm running electric p/s i probably want to maintain alt speed as well, so that would be nice to address with the alt pulley. could you undredrive the water pump pulley to or is that likely not necessary? that's so small i'll get another cut out of steel if need be. my ideal set up would be a one piece pulley with only one belt like you're talking about. that would rock as i don't think i need two belts.

thanks guys. water pump - thought i got the right one, looked over multiple threads about the different pumps. if the belt fits right and lines up that doesnt' mean it's the right one? i thought only the shaft length/pulley styles were different? funny thing - i bought the right water pump for an XT Turbo - but who knows what this JDM engine is on. can all the pulleys/belts line up perfect but it still be the wrong water pump? anyway to verify i have the right water pump? think i chucked the old one. pretty sure i got all the air out. did the fill, refill, squeeze the hose and all that jazz. but i'll try again. with system full i pulled the hose at the thermostat and not one drop came out with the engine running. water was sputtering/moving a tiny bit in the thermostat housing, but that could have just been engine vibrations/heat. thanks

you're looking for a manual transmission? not too hard to find a FWD manual transmission. i posted a thread awhile ago and got two replies with people selling. can definitley be had inexpensively and are quite reliable....for normal use. not sure on power handling. except to say the newer models (EJ series, 2.2 liter engines for instance) have higher output motors so i'd assume the trans is up to it. but the older 4WD trans hold up well too, i'd assume the 2WD are similar in design. might want to give a run-down of how much power you're expecting to push through it.

i never said they were? that's what PM's are for. not sure why you're patronizing. you've mentioned your stance, i don't see a need to use derogatory remarks. i'm not trying to argue or say you're wrong? it wasn't completely on-topic, but that is a matter of oppinion. topic is about interest in a lightened crank pulley. if someone posted "anyone interested in some EA82 lifters?", i would not post a diatribe every time about the difference in lifters and hydraulic valve lash adjusters. frankly i wouldn't read it because i'm not interested in any EA82 lifters at this time. now for aluminum crank pulleys i'm interested in those.

got this JDM motor and it starts to run hot. the radiator/hoses don't get warm at all. the water pump side gets a little warm i think but the radiator for the most part stays cool. brand new water pump, thermostat, hoses and no leaks. water pump is spinning when the engine is running. the radiator appears good and flows fine with a garden hose flowing in one end. i inspected it off the car - hose on one end, comes out the other. so the radiator isn't the hold up. when i pull the radiator cap or the hose at the thermostat and crank the motor - coolant doesn't come out. seems like the water pump isn't moving the coolant or something is major clogged internally? neither of those hardly seem possible though. even a bad water pump or clog would at least allow some water to get through? anyone ever seen a new water pump that can't pump any water?

mine is on a good engine so i don't want to get rid of it. nor would i trust my abilities to measure it. i got tape measures, nothing fancy in that department.

might have a tough time finding someone who's replaced these. they don't go bad often, particularly a 99. the older ones aren't too hard. i think there are two "hidden screws" to remove the plastic cover. the dealer may let you take a look at the FSM which will show the procedure for removing them. FSM is also available for purchase, they are excellent but steep in price. there are also Haynes manuals available for $20 or so that may have some good information in it. they are manufacturer and model specific for the most part. any auto parts store should carry these and maybe you can have a look in it to see if it gives wiper motor replacement instructions.

the large font also makes your discussion threads longer (page wise) and harder to sift through. it'll be easier in the long run. i'd plan to use an entire WRX engine, wiring and ECU. using the existing wiring would be a chore. if you want to use the existing wiring get the FSM or relevant FSM wiring diagrams and sort them out one at a time. label them meticulously.

i agree. you're addressing off-topic items i was trying to stay on topic for this persons interest, so i felt the lengthy definitions were not necessary. your input on the subaru design being necessary is on-topic, he may be interested in that. i do have the EJ22 item you're looknig for that i could pull off and send you, but i would want it back soon. can you ship it back to me?

XT6 engine (ER27) will fit. it won't be a plug and play type swap. the wiring harness/ECU are different. you can swap in an entire XT6 wiring harness and ECU. that's the hardest part is the wiring. not sure what transmission is in the loyale but some transmissions use the TPS and the loyale and XT6 TPS are completely different, i do not know if this would be an issue or not. the front XT6 engine mount will not have the receptacle/mounting holes necessary on your loyale, but i could be wrong. the EA82's didn't have a front engine mount and i don't recall seeing anything there to accept the XT6 front engine mount. the radiator is larger and the water pump pipe and water return pipes are larger as well. you can either use reducers to try and get your existing radiator to work or upgrade to XT6 stuff. i'd guess the XT6 being larger and coming equipped with a larger cooling capacity should probably dictate going with the larger items. XT6 radiators are not available aftermarket (some sites list them, but they will just be 4 cylinder radiators) and they cost $600 at the dealer or order them through online Subaru parts specialists for $300.

sounds like you didn't ever overheat the thing really. new gaskets, have the heads tested by a machine shop and you're golden. get the engine oil changed at least twice as soon as possible like nipper said in case any coolant in the oil.

i was explaining it for those that don't know and the possible failure mode associated with the design. crank pulley, harmonic balancer, harmonic damper are frequently used to describe each other without much thought.