idosubaru

yes that is possible. your front wheel bearings will be exposed, i believe the axle provides some cover if not a direct seal for the bearings in the hub. it is an unlikely but serious safety hazzard. if the circuit gets broken for any reason or the button gets pushed by you, someone else, an animal or inanimate object you would loose all power. not ideal in an intersection. why would you want RWD?

i've done EJ22, EJ25, EA82, ER27...but never and EG33 timing belt and water pump. might be helping a friend out with his. much different than the other subaru's. if it's about as easy as those i'm willing to help this guy out. inteference or not?

$500 sounds about right. unless you know the person really well i wouldn't go to cheap..or unless you don't have the $. there are a few corners that can be cut here and you'd rather not. have the flywheel machined, pilot bearing, throw out bearing and clips replaced, and a complete clutch kit installed nut just a clutch disc. don't reuse anything, this motor will come out once, don't skimp and risk it needing to come out again if you plan on keeping it another 100,000 miles. someone may try to quote cheap and not replace all those parts. be sure they replace the rear main seal while they're there and the separator gasket would be wise too. the rear main seal is about 10 dollars or less, but requires removal of engine/trans to get to , so it's a good idea to get a new one in there while it's all out. i don't care who does it, but if i didn't do the work myself i'd be partial to someone who knows subaru's and i'd avoid the dealer like H5N1 chickens.

take an extra charged battery with you to turn the motor over and something big/heavy to whack the starter with if it don't want to turn.

thanks sounds exactly like what i need. the one i had requires one and a half hands at all times and is unstable at best. i'll take a look, have some ratchets to return anyway. thanks!

if it came with a fire extinguisher and you can save your feet then you got a good deal.

awesome. clean threads go on like butter.

no and not necessarily. info already posted but 2.2's had both. changed in 1997.

cool, thanks! i didnt' know about the intake differences. that's the problem, i knew that! mine being a "1997" model, but 12/96 manufacture date i wasn't sure. i had always assumed it was a 1997 with interference and solid lifters. wanted to know for sure. i'll check the intake differences, i can't remember off the top of my head. the extra box and hook thing you mentioned sounds like mine....which would be 97+ interference design, which is what i had thought all along. we've come full circle... sometimes the longest way 'round is the shortest way home.

checked my "1997" impreza and it's manufacture date stamp is 12/96, would that means it's hydraulic or solid lifters? really don't feel like pulling the covers just to find out. also - would that mean it's an interference "1997" EJ22 or a non-interference "pre-1997" EJ22

the marks should always be used to line up the cam and crank pulleys when installing the timing belt. removal of the belt and assuming the cam/crank maintain exact position for an install is not accurate. you wrote this in reference to the HLA's so you are probably doing it right. i have seen people remove the belts, kept everything "in-line" and reinstalled the belts without ever checking the marks. this method usually fails as the cam/crank only has to slightly drift to be off one tooth. like the others said, you are correct about those other steps being overkill. waaaay overkill i might add. verify no air in the HLA??? that is a weird one. the old generation EA82 and ER27's don't have that step eventhough they have HLA's.

i highly doubt you'll find a replacement part number or seal. but if you can take the old seal and piston to a good auto parts supplier (think local auto parts stores, not national chains for this one), you can probably match one up that will work just fine. i've never seen a rebuild kit for these air compressors and i've kept my eye out for them. air compressors across EA82 and XT6 are the same (the struts are not). the HEIGHT sensor blinks when the computer detects a problem with the air suspension system, so i'm not surprised you didn't find a leak. the computer would only flash a code for something it can see.

i had a caliper seize on my XT6 last year. turned out to be the parking brake was stuck on eventhough the handle was all the way down? i un-stuck it and worked it around and it's been fine since. just some random info since on the XT6 it's a front e-brake so that wouldn't be your issue. what you might consider is that i ended up warping that rotor, so you might want to consider installing a new rotor while it's apart, they typically warp when that happens and they're driven on. that is one rusty a$$ piston bore, crazy. as a side note, i rebuilt some calipers over the past couple years, 3 sets of XT6 calipers and it was really easy. no complaints yet. two sets are on my XT6's and one set is on a friends. the rebuild kits were like $3 each!!

depends what kind of snow it is. if it's light and fluffy you can get through a ton. if it's heavy and wet snow it'll pack underneath and strand you around 9 inches or so...depending on snow, conditions, road, vehicle, etc. i'd imagine up there you get lots more of the dry light snow so doubt you'd have any issues.

awesome dude, glad it worked out for you!

there's different kinds of off roading and different objectives. if engine/exhaust clearance is your only concern definitely swap the cross members, it's super easy to do. you don't have a turbo cross member do you? it's still in the RX isn't it?

i bought one from advanced auto parts and it's POS to work on subaru heads with. you think this one from sears works well on the EA82's? the one i got doesn't really work at all...requires other tools to coax the valve retainers off.

sounds like a head gasket unfortunately. if it was previously overheated ever (highly likely in a 230,000 mile/20 year old car that carries a $500 OEM only radiator with no aftermarket source)....then it's almost a given.

1-828-724-1616 these guys have an ECU for $65 from a 1998 Impreza have you done any jump-starting or had any recent work done? I wouldn't expect an ECU to go bad for no reason.

with multiple codes showing i find it best to attack one at a time. in your case i'd look to solve the idle circuit malfunction problem first and go from there. it also might be a good idea to reset the ECU and see which codes appear immediately on the next start up. this would show the most emminent issues. not really sure on the speed sensor things, that's an odd ball of sorts, don't see very much of that. the vehicle speed sensors in older subaru's never cause issue, even when they cause the CEL to come on, but the newer ones could be completey different. that's why i mentioned that i'd look into the idle circuit more, it's more common and causes more issues on older subaru's when the VSS never does. but again...newer generations are completely different. you should be able to score a relatively cheap ($50) used ECU (engine computer) to swap in place and see if that alleviates any of the codes. he mentioned TCM - i'd guess he has an automatic.

the lines between colors seem random and don't offer much to the vehicle. not that they look bad, but they don't offer or do anything for it either. maybe that's just me. it's hard to tell with that drawing, i'm not really good at picturing colors too well. kind of sucks that the coloring doesn't show the actual brilliance of a fresh paint job. doesn't do justice to what you're idea.

there are a number of on-line vendors mentioned on this site. use the search function to find out more. Subiegal (jamie) is one, Toney is another though i can't recall their contact info. do a search you can't miss.

i knew i shouldn't have installed my engine upside down.

sure it will depending on how exactly it fails. "blown" signifies more than just a small leak so that's different in a way. if by blown you mean "completely gone, loosing 2 gallons of coolant immediately after start up", then it needs a head gasket but certainly isn't driveable. that might not be the case in this car, it doesn't say. if it's driveable i'd guess it's not "blown" by your definition as it's still driveable which is entirely possible as well. now that i think about it, myxphlyx RX is a turbo and it had externally seeping head gaskets as well that i replaced. very slow leak as he never added coolant in the year he owned it. either way it isn't a "good thing" and i wouldn't count on driving it very much in terms of making a purchasing decision.

bingo. different failure modes. internal leaks rarely last very long as they progressively get worse fast. external leaks can run for a very long time. "can", not always! i've seen a few do anywhere from 20k - 40k miles with no increase in coolant loss, but the gaskets were finally replaced.