idosubaru

it all went away with one bottle of sea foam? that's awesome.

push the caliper arm towards the engine so to speak (away from you) and it'll slide right off the pin. clean up all the dirt and old grease and lube it good with new grease. the slide it back and forth a few times to spread the new grease around.

the 2.2's definitely don't have head gasket problems. being around longer (since they came out well before the 2.5's) you'll see some 2.2's with issues more related to age and maintenance than design. EJ refers to newer motors. the numbering is the size of the engine. EJ22 is 2.2 liter, EJ25 is 2.5 liter, etc. there are variations among them as mentioned. subaru came out with a "new" head gasket design that your engine surely has, doubt you'll have any trouble with it.

sometimes just the wiring or connections at the alternator, headlights or battery are to blame aren't they?

could he just sawzall or torch the axle off?

refilling can't hurt...but then you risk getting air bubbles in there too. i don't think draining just the overflow tank will buy you very much. the heads are almost certainly already out of spec, probably salvageable but they should be checked and milled.

anyone? bump.

too heavy to carry while you're in route to steal it?

leave the old axles in. i've run fronts for 50,000 miles and rears for 100,000 miles with broken boots, they won't fail. if they're clickign while driving straight, pack some grease in by hand to quite them up. otherwise you could do it, but probably better to just sawzall the axle close to the hub and leave the old CV in the hub at least to keep the wheel seal and bearings protected.

you would likely make it....i don't advise it but you could make it. you said you have "unlimited time", in that case if you make sure you don't drive it overheating you'll make it home. might take awhile but if you stop/cool down when it starts to overheat and make sure it's full of coolant you'll make it. i've had to do this before, take a ton of towels/blankets or somethign similar along if you're actually loosing coolant. when you need to add throw the towels and such over the fill cap and remove it. if done right it'll blow like crazy but you contained it with all the towels and crap and then can refill it. otherwise you have to wait for it to cool down to overfill and that takes forever. if you're not loosing coolant then you just have to wait it out. that you're making it 40/50 miles now makes me think you should be fine, just shut down before you overheat. if it's leaking into the block (which sounds like oil/coolant is mixing) at all i don't know that i'd want to do alot of engine work on it, coolant in the oil is horrible on the bearings. i'd want to do the work right and plan on having the car another 100,000 miles. i'm guessing you don't want to dump large sums on a good EJ25, they are expensive and hard to come by. in that case i'd get a used EJ22 for a couple hundred and slap some timing belts on it and install that. then sell your EJ25 with blown gaskets, someone will want it believe me. it'll help pay for much of the EJ22. it'll be done quicker too. head gasket job is big and can run into issues. you'll have to pay for machining of the heads and probably best to have them checked if you've driven that much on them. but that's me, i'm an admitted EJ22 fan. the new gaskets will solve your issues though and there is EXCELLENT information on this board about doing the head gasket job. so if you want to and have time, tear it up. start practicing with the search function and you'll find what you need. good luck, hope you get it going again.

good point D, but if you're not getting stuck and can't do that in AWD the field isn't nearly messy enough!

yes that is possible. your front wheel bearings will be exposed, i believe the axle provides some cover if not a direct seal for the bearings in the hub. it is an unlikely but serious safety hazzard. if the circuit gets broken for any reason or the button gets pushed by you, someone else, an animal or inanimate object you would loose all power. not ideal in an intersection. why would you want RWD?

i've done EJ22, EJ25, EA82, ER27...but never and EG33 timing belt and water pump. might be helping a friend out with his. much different than the other subaru's. if it's about as easy as those i'm willing to help this guy out. inteference or not?

$500 sounds about right. unless you know the person really well i wouldn't go to cheap..or unless you don't have the $. there are a few corners that can be cut here and you'd rather not. have the flywheel machined, pilot bearing, throw out bearing and clips replaced, and a complete clutch kit installed nut just a clutch disc. don't reuse anything, this motor will come out once, don't skimp and risk it needing to come out again if you plan on keeping it another 100,000 miles. someone may try to quote cheap and not replace all those parts. be sure they replace the rear main seal while they're there and the separator gasket would be wise too. the rear main seal is about 10 dollars or less, but requires removal of engine/trans to get to , so it's a good idea to get a new one in there while it's all out. i don't care who does it, but if i didn't do the work myself i'd be partial to someone who knows subaru's and i'd avoid the dealer like H5N1 chickens.

take an extra charged battery with you to turn the motor over and something big/heavy to whack the starter with if it don't want to turn.

thanks sounds exactly like what i need. the one i had requires one and a half hands at all times and is unstable at best. i'll take a look, have some ratchets to return anyway. thanks!

if it came with a fire extinguisher and you can save your feet then you got a good deal.

awesome. clean threads go on like butter.

no and not necessarily. info already posted but 2.2's had both. changed in 1997.

cool, thanks! i didnt' know about the intake differences. that's the problem, i knew that! mine being a "1997" model, but 12/96 manufacture date i wasn't sure. i had always assumed it was a 1997 with interference and solid lifters. wanted to know for sure. i'll check the intake differences, i can't remember off the top of my head. the extra box and hook thing you mentioned sounds like mine....which would be 97+ interference design, which is what i had thought all along. we've come full circle... sometimes the longest way 'round is the shortest way home.

checked my "1997" impreza and it's manufacture date stamp is 12/96, would that means it's hydraulic or solid lifters? really don't feel like pulling the covers just to find out. also - would that mean it's an interference "1997" EJ22 or a non-interference "pre-1997" EJ22

the marks should always be used to line up the cam and crank pulleys when installing the timing belt. removal of the belt and assuming the cam/crank maintain exact position for an install is not accurate. you wrote this in reference to the HLA's so you are probably doing it right. i have seen people remove the belts, kept everything "in-line" and reinstalled the belts without ever checking the marks. this method usually fails as the cam/crank only has to slightly drift to be off one tooth. like the others said, you are correct about those other steps being overkill. waaaay overkill i might add. verify no air in the HLA??? that is a weird one. the old generation EA82 and ER27's don't have that step eventhough they have HLA's.

i highly doubt you'll find a replacement part number or seal. but if you can take the old seal and piston to a good auto parts supplier (think local auto parts stores, not national chains for this one), you can probably match one up that will work just fine. i've never seen a rebuild kit for these air compressors and i've kept my eye out for them. air compressors across EA82 and XT6 are the same (the struts are not). the HEIGHT sensor blinks when the computer detects a problem with the air suspension system, so i'm not surprised you didn't find a leak. the computer would only flash a code for something it can see.

i had a caliper seize on my XT6 last year. turned out to be the parking brake was stuck on eventhough the handle was all the way down? i un-stuck it and worked it around and it's been fine since. just some random info since on the XT6 it's a front e-brake so that wouldn't be your issue. what you might consider is that i ended up warping that rotor, so you might want to consider installing a new rotor while it's apart, they typically warp when that happens and they're driven on. that is one rusty a$$ piston bore, crazy. as a side note, i rebuilt some calipers over the past couple years, 3 sets of XT6 calipers and it was really easy. no complaints yet. two sets are on my XT6's and one set is on a friends. the rebuild kits were like $3 each!!

depends what kind of snow it is. if it's light and fluffy you can get through a ton. if it's heavy and wet snow it'll pack underneath and strand you around 9 inches or so...depending on snow, conditions, road, vehicle, etc. i'd imagine up there you get lots more of the dry light snow so doubt you'd have any issues.