idosubaru

sounds good, i got air tools and two OBS for parts so that shouldn't be too bad. 80,000 miles and no rust, hopefully i get lucky. the XT6 rear i just pulled was hell, probably like you're talking about. i'll get that wrench and be sure to get all the brake hose i can. thanks!

yes. there are coolant passages at the top of the head and you just did some major work so who knows. off the top of my head, i doubt it though. i wouldn't assume head gasket this early unless you see it coming out. check the hose. sometimes it's best to just pull the thing since it's so simple but so important. a tiny crack under the clamp can be hard to spot.

look for the source. if it's coming from the top, that's usually a coolant hose issue. it's easy to nick a hose have a loose clamp or a tight clamp cutting into a hose and any of these will seap into the top of the head. there is also the possibility that the intake manifold gasket has coolant passages in it where it bolts to the heads. this gasket can leak as well. there are a number of options, you'll need to find the source to narrow it down. try cleaning the area (use Greased Lightening - purple bottle) and see where the coolant starts coming from if there's too much to tell. for now - don't let the coolant level get low or you will overheat and risk head gasket issues.

other than not having the right parts is there anything that would get in the way of finishing this? it's the wifes ride and the rest of our herd are all manuals. the last resort will be she gets a 5 speed driving lesson i suppose! thanks matt, already sourcing parts.

any idea what my changes of incurring problems by doing this? that is awesome. that's worth a try just for the coolness factor! wonder if a shop vac pulls more vaccumm than my vaccuum puller? i bet it pulls much higher volume, mine is small for A/C stuff.

awesome. how long did it take M? looking into doing it to my 97 OBS. this thread says 8 hours: http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/disc/disc.html is that right? that's alot of down time!

the older generation forums, considering how old the transmissions are rarely see torque bind compared to some of the 90's models. i've never seen any torque bind in the XT6's 4EAT's i've worked on and rarely (if ever) see it on the XT boards, not sure why that changed in the 90's. they will act funny sometimes on mismatched tires. not sure what it does but the trans shuttered and jumped around at slow speeds until i replaced one bad tire. it's like the TCU was confused.

i can post a picture later. any concensus on pulling this bolt out and reinstalling it? i don't want to cause major engine issues on an engine that runs fine. concerned mostly with breaking the seal between the engine halves. i'd think it would stay to together just fine but i really don't know. heck...what's it going to do, cause a leak? the bolt slides through one half (where it's leaking) and threads into the other half of the block holding them together. so i don't think teflon tape would work on the bolts "head" side of the block where mine is leaking since the tape would only seal the threaded portion on the other half of the block. an oring or some sealant would probably work on the shaft side though.

i don't think it's a bad thing to try some injector cleaner. i've never experienced anythign amazing doing it myself. try a couple cans and that's about as good as the $100 service they'll give you at the dealer. i usually use 2 bottles of MMO if i feel so inclined. i'd try the seafoam but don't really have any inclination as to which ones are really "better" than others. at this mileage the injectors could be prone to leaking/dripping that no kind of cleaning will fix. there are companies that will completely clean, rebuild and flow test your injectors for $15-$25 each. i had mine done by RC Engineering at about 200,000 miles,though there are cheaper companies out there. i know a few of us have posted our test results pages on here and xt6.net. a few of the injectors most have sent in have been dripping or had awkward spray patterns. most injector issues from what i've seen have been accelerating, rough idle type issues.

yep. i cleaned off the intake really well and noticed it after a 15 mile trip. tightened it and it seems to leak less, but still coming out. not being familiar with block work im not sure the best way to go about it.

i didn't know it made much difference in stopping, so i'll plan on doing it. thanks!

one of the bolts on top of the engine holding the block together is leaking oil. tigthened the bolt a little, it was already tight but i put 180 degrees on it and it seems to leak less....unless it was just a temperature or other unrelated cause in leaking less. any ideas on this? could i remove the bolt and seal it somehow? seems like removing a bolt that holds the block together is a rediculous idea but i want to stop the leak. the motor has never been apart that i know of (i know the previous owner) and runs well.

check fluid level. check shifter linkage, do the lights for D, R, N change when you shift? drain and refill. drain it through a screeen and see if there are bits in there that shouldn't be. see if the torque converter is spinning when you start the car. pull a transmission cooler hose and crank the engine, see if any fluid comes out, this would verify the pump is working and you have line pressure. check the transmission fluid pan for a major dent.

stick with any 2.2 and replace the timing belt at proper intervals, which on a used car often means replacing it when you get it to be sure. 200,000 here you come.

you can notice a difference in stopping ability? are disc brakes better or your old ones were just old? good job getting it done.

i didn't know about that little section at the bottom until forever either. i still forget about it sometimes. good news figuring it out.

the owners manual states 1/4" circumference. it was likely pulled from Subaru and misquoted. you can actually feel the 4EAT acting funny, i guess the TCU gets confused or something. if they are different enough the car will drive funny at slow speeds, you can feel the trans kind of bucking a little. install new tires and it goes away.

might want to check the svx boards for options, but GD sounds like he knows and usually if he does...well, he does. if you want a 3.7 LSD for $200 let me know i'm driving down 95 through richmond Thursday evening.

you can get away with it, i've had AWD subaru's improperly towed before with no ill effects. it's a risk, that's about all you can say.

i think the SVX final drive is a 3.54 and not be directly interchangeable with your EA series vehicles which will be 3.7 or 3.9.

GD is spot on, mark your locations and reinstall. i've done ball joints, swapped control arms, steering racks, struts, hubs...etc. i never get alignments and my tires wear perfectly even after 200,000 miles of no alignments. i've wrecked mine playing in the snow and replaced control arms and hubs and still no alignment needed. mark everything where it was carefully, install and you're done. keep an eye on the tires, with AWD you should be rotating anyway, if you see any start of unusual wear that's when you take it in for an alignment. i've used that philosophy and i've never needed an alignment yet. you can pick up used racks fairly cheap, someone on the board here will probably sell you one for little money. are you sure all 3 are bad? i've never seen a failed subaru tie rod, i'm sure it's possible but to have 3 that are all bad? sounds strange.

the information in this thread isn't helping you? what doesn't make sense? scroll to the bottom of this page and look to the bottom left corner, you'll see links to threads with similar topics already down there. click on those and have a look.

rotate often and replace as a set. improper tire sizes can and do result in transmission problems.

i've never had a problem with aftermarket thermostats. you can place it in a pan of boiling water and see if it opens. more importantly, have you checked coolant? any loss of coolant? any leakage? why did you replace it last year? did the car overheat last year? i would guess this is something other than thermostat related, no way to tell without looking into it further as a thermostat can fail though.

you paid for a new car and warranty, make them give you the services you've already paid for. could be incorrectly charged....or could be multiple other problems with components, best to let them have a look. i'd vote for adjusting the charge.