idosubaru

if the guy is being honest he should know whether it's loosing engine oil or ATF. the car won't go anywhere without either one so it should be obvious.

i haven't had to look for EJ series rebuild kits yet so i don't know. i get EA series and XT6 rebuild kits from http://www.rockauto.com. local shops can get them as well, Beck Arnley seems to supply a decent amount of Subaru caliper rebuild kits. subaru would be a good source and from memory i thought i saw that the OEM dealer kits for the EJ weren't that expensive.

i agree it's less than desirable. he doesn't say what year EJ22 so it may not be interference. and if the crank pulley did spin off it shouldn't affect the timing belts. the drive belts yes, but not the timing belts. i've seen a few that have had this happen and they've never done anything to the timing belts and hence interference is a non-issue.

you say you changed out the connector. did you install a used water temperature sensor? was it clean? corroded at all? i'd still bet your water temperature sensor is causing the issue, i've had mad issues with these over the years so i came up with this permanent fix: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=water+sensor

if the CEL comes on there is no reason to plug in anything. any time the CEL comes on the ECU should be flashing the corresponding code on the ECU while you're driving around, idling or whatever. as soon as the CEL comes on, do nothing but pop the trunk and read the code. connectors are used for diagnostic and read memory mode, both of which i've found very little need for in the last 15 years.

wheel bearings cv joints ball joints tie rod ends might want to get on this quickly too. some of these can be serious safety issues. also wheel bearings will ruin your hub if they get too bad.

crank pulleys can be installed without pins or keyways. i'm sure this is evil talk, but i've done it. give the crank bolt as much torque as you can with a break bar, you won't strip the bolt unless it's already damaged. i like some of these fixes, interesting!

you missed the most likely reason already mentioned...the caliper slides. when you do a brake job, make sure you always grease the slides. did you clean and grease the slides the last time you did a brake job? also possible - calipers sticking. i've rebuilt a number of calipers it's actually very easy. push the piston out, clean it up, replace one seal, a clip and the dust boot and you're done. for the first time i'd order a used caliper to practice on (if you get it right just swap calipers) and also buy two rebuild sets in case you tear the rubber boot on your first go around. at $10 or less rebuild kits cover both sides. next time you're in there take note of all 4 pads (two on each side). compare them all and see if one is substantially more warn than the rest. any that are warn more than others are riding on the rotor too long and that would point to the slides needing to be greased or the caliper being sticky on that side.

$40 for each head where i go and they are expensive but i like them. there are shops that will do it cheaper.

agreed. i doubt he'll have people knocking down his door. make an offer and when he doesn't bite, stop back in a month and it'll still be there. $800 is through the roof for sure. many of us have gotten parts cars cheap, i've gotten 4 for free. hold out. you have the advantage since you really don't need it.

that's not too bad. take a large 4x8 sheet of heavy duty 3/4" plywood to slide under the car and wheel an engine lift onto it. out the motor comes. leave the transmission attached, just unbolt the trans cross member bolts and cut the cables/wires somewhere. much easier than trying to separate the engine from the trans and the engine will come out of the engine bay with the trans attached, plenty of room. or use plywood sheets under jacks to jack the car up high, place large sheet of carpet under the car. unbolt engine and transmission mounting bolts and let the entire assembly fall on the carpet. grab the carpet and slide it out the front. or take a bob cat out there with some chain to yank it out.

if you need a motor it's worth more to you than if you need an interior trim piece. $500 at most, i can't imagine anyone wanting to pay more than that for somethign that's wrecked and doesn't run. ...but i don't know what you need or how hard they are to find for you. low mileage is nice, but how long has it been there and it's a non running and damaged vehicle. engine will drop right into yours no problem, nothing tricky about it. remove engine, remove flexplate from engine, attach clutch stuff and you're done. at most you'd have to swap the bellhousing (very easy, just a couple bolts). swap just the blocks if the wiring harness is any different from auto to manual trans to keep things simple. in other words keep your intake manifold in your car and drop it on top of any other EA82 you can find.

you used a new gasket with sealant on both sides? is it leaking out the lip or bolt holes?

cool thanks, just like # of valves per cylinder!

97 impreza OBS with ABS. will 1993 Legacy 2 pot calipers fit? would the 2 pot calipers be better than my stock 1 pot? and why are 2 better?

Anaerobic sealant can be found at NAPA (ask if you're not sure) and is the best to use. RTV will work. Anaerobic sealant if any gets in the oil will not clog up oil passages or get stuck anywhere like RTV can, that's the only difference. that's why they're telling you to don't over-do the RTV. if you do and excess gets squeezed into the oil supply that's not a good thing. there's a picture on yahoo XT6 groups of a glob during a tear down someone did after a glob worked it's way into the engine. I used RTV for a number of years, i use anaerobic now because i have it on hand.

i was told some 98 and up (or all?) transmissions have screw on filters like an oil filter.

i know someone that just removed a used manual steering EA82 steering rack while his engine was out to install power steering. he's in minnesota, i sent him a message this morning about this thread.

how is the engine running/temp gauge? does the engine ever overheat? check for overheating and radiator cap first. then headgaskets/internal coolant leak of some sort after those options.

check the intake hose for cracks. check underneath where you can't see as well. if cracks are just starting they will "open" more as the engine torques and moves (motor mounts give) or you go around turns and the chasis moves. i doubt this is the case, but all i can think of. that and a wire is exposed somewhere, grounding out around turns. i've seen O2 wires have the insulation rubbed off where they pass through crossmembers or around exhaust. they will ground out intermittently and cause strange things.

the timing belt related marks are on the cam sprockets (youll see when you pull the covers) and the crank mark is on the flexplate (auto trans) or flywheel (manual trans) as viewed through the bellhousing access hole on top of the bellhousing underneath the intake hose where it meets the throttle body. you like run on sentences right?

it would be tough to prove that a rock got in between and damaged the pulley. if the belt fails it is difficult to sift through the shredded pieces and torn bits and determine exactly what happened. the pulleys shear off due to age, vibration, stripped bolts, bearings seized, belts shredding and grabbing on to something, etc. it's happened numerous times to people here, at http://www.xt6.net and on the yahoo XT6 groups over the years. i've had it happen once (before i ever thought of removing timing covers). pulleys fail, bolts strip, bearings fail and they can shear off and take parts of the block with them (mine did, jeffs did, uncle ike in the midwest did...there's three off the top of my head...and all had their covers on..i think jeff did). i think age, bearings, belt shreds and stripped (or partially stripped) bolts are more likely to happen than a rock wedging in between. how do you know this piece of rubber caused it to jump two teeth? did you see it rip off, spin around with the belt and then jump? i'm just being logical and trying to avoid assumptions. also, had you not had covers this would have never happened. if non covered belts could easily get fouled by debris then serpentine belts would fail all the time, they are quite exposed...particularly on other model vehicles. but i've never seen that or heard of that happening. granted...if you got covers in great condition and don't do the work yourself, you are definitely better off having them in place. each person has different desires out of their vehicle. most probably don't like keeping an extra set of belts and pulleys in the trunk as back ups. i don't mind, i can throw them on in a matter of minutes if need be. and the cam sprockets and bolts rust easy, so there are down sides i admit. but i've got extra sprockets and bolts and can paint them so no matter to me. this isn't a one size fits all deal that's for sure.

as an example. i'm currently looking for a friend, so this was easy... http://baltimore.craigslist.org/car/164829031.html this one has more mileage, but i'd rather get the good deal and spend another couple hundred on new timing belt, water pump, timing pulleys and have a bullet proof motor for under $3,000. these things soar past 200,000 miles without blinking.

sounds like this has the 2.2 in it? if it's a 2.5 i'd definitely ignore it. but if it is the 2.2 that's a great motor. can't really go wrong getting one of those in good condition with low miles. agreed on the dealership - worst place to buy a car from. they go to auctions, buy a used car sight unseen for $800 and sell it for $4000. just go buy it from the people selling it and cut out the fat of the dealers. you can only win, it's cheaper and you can learn more about the car. look for responsible people and service records....good signs that you're getting a good car. i look far away....find the one i want at a great price and fly to go pick it up and drive it home. but if you don't mind the price tag and it's the car you want, talk them down and get the best price you can and get. don't expect them to give you their best price the first 30 minutes or even first day of visiting. they pay pennies on these cars and have huge profits in them, they will budge. they will hold out for a sucker before selling it cheaper.

thermostat is a possibility as well.