idosubaru

buy from a private party, much cheaper and better chance of gaining details about the car like last time timing belts were changed, etc. dealers get cars from someone else, add $$$ and sell it. take them out of the equation and buy private unless you see a smoking deal. but it is a rare opportunity to see a deal at a car lot that can't be beat. yes you are right to ask about timing belts. at 100,000 the timing belt and water pump and oil pump seals should be replaced at the same time. the pulleys should be replaced or inspected. replace any noisey ones. you're asking for another 100,000 miles from them, so make sure they are good. other than that, fluid changes are nice. brake fluid, trans fluid, coolant. unless you know for a fact the previous owner did it. unless i know the service history i don't assume anything and do the maintenance items. a basic tune up would be wise as well. plugs, wires (make sure it's OEM Subaru only on these), fuel filter, air filter. cheap stuff and easy to do. http://www.autotrader.com http://www.craigslist.com and ebay and usmb sometimes..

might want to make sure it's the pan. if there's any fluid above the pan, then it's likely coming from somewhere else. the ATF cooler lines usually attach just above the pan and could be seeping as well. spray it all down really well with a good cleaner. after clean up, see where it's coming from.

might need a cleaning/greasing too. i've seen tons of junk get wadded up under the center console and the gear...the older it is, the more likely obviously.

good point, your charge is'nt "used up". it either stays in the system and works or it leaks and doesn't. if it's still working a little bit, it may be that the leak is leaking down to a low pressure and then it holds. if you charge it, the high pressure may cause it to leak again back down again to where it's at now. leaks don't often go away on their own. check out howthingswork.com if you're curious how the charge continuously cools.

here it is....

agree with nipper. 80k is early for major brake issues. subaru's don't typically have many brake problems in my experience. i'd flush the system properly and replace any warn pads first before needlessly replacing parts. have you checked the fluid level? could it be low enough that on a bad hill or corner it sloshed and sucked in some air? i think a basic brake check, pad replacement and fluid flush will get you going just fine. if not, move on from there. calipers can be rebuilt and it is fairly easy to do, though i've never done the 2 pot variety. it's only one seal, the circlip and dust boot for each piston, only takes a couple minutes. but nipper is right, price out your options and see what you want to do. in the ones i've taken apart the pistons have never been rusted or needed replacing. i've scored complete rebuild kits for less than $10 and the ones i've always gotten (Beck Arnley) cover both sides. but i'm doubtful this is your problem anyway.

i'll post it for you nipper. use my yahoo email, click on my name.

this doesn't include the Impreza Outback Sport. these have the 2.2 motor up to 1999 at least. i ended up getting a low mileage OBS with the 2.2 due to the 2.2's excellent recommendations on reliability. it's been great. it is not fast, but has plenty of power as needed. mileage is less than i expected (27 at best all highway miles), but different transmissions and gearing get better mileage (i have an auto AWD). sounds like you should test drive or go check a few out and compare.

quit making me laugh at work!!!! ha haaaa!!!!!!

what freaking causes that burnt valve? i've dealt with the older EA82 and ER27 motors for years and have never seen that even on abused, over heated 200,000 mile 20 year old vehicles.

shaking of the car or steering wheel? does it feel like it's from the front or rear? check the lug nuts of all the wheels and make sure they didn't back out. jack up each wheel and check for play and rotate it by hand to see if it feels tight or like it's catching. (this will point to wheel bearings or caliper/rotor issues depending on what you feel). ball joint maybe, but a long shot.

the ones that i've seen have different adapters, so it is mostly full proof from what i've seen. this is for 134a and 12. i've had no problems charging my own, it's very easy. i have a vacuum puller as well to "do it right" if need be. i'd imagine if you had all the tools available to an a/c tech, they would have high and low side adapters of all sorts and in the hands of a non a/c expert like myself it would be easy enough to accidentally attach to the low side port. but if you're buying a can to charge with, it's going to have the right low side port fitting on it. it will be hard to get the "perfect" amount of charge in there without gauges, but my friends and myself have never had any problems adding some charge if needed. make sure everything else is working fine (the fan and a/c clutch) before mindlessly recharging.

if the guy is being honest he should know whether it's loosing engine oil or ATF. the car won't go anywhere without either one so it should be obvious.

i haven't had to look for EJ series rebuild kits yet so i don't know. i get EA series and XT6 rebuild kits from http://www.rockauto.com. local shops can get them as well, Beck Arnley seems to supply a decent amount of Subaru caliper rebuild kits. subaru would be a good source and from memory i thought i saw that the OEM dealer kits for the EJ weren't that expensive.

i agree it's less than desirable. he doesn't say what year EJ22 so it may not be interference. and if the crank pulley did spin off it shouldn't affect the timing belts. the drive belts yes, but not the timing belts. i've seen a few that have had this happen and they've never done anything to the timing belts and hence interference is a non-issue.

you say you changed out the connector. did you install a used water temperature sensor? was it clean? corroded at all? i'd still bet your water temperature sensor is causing the issue, i've had mad issues with these over the years so i came up with this permanent fix: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=water+sensor

if the CEL comes on there is no reason to plug in anything. any time the CEL comes on the ECU should be flashing the corresponding code on the ECU while you're driving around, idling or whatever. as soon as the CEL comes on, do nothing but pop the trunk and read the code. connectors are used for diagnostic and read memory mode, both of which i've found very little need for in the last 15 years.

wheel bearings cv joints ball joints tie rod ends might want to get on this quickly too. some of these can be serious safety issues. also wheel bearings will ruin your hub if they get too bad.

crank pulleys can be installed without pins or keyways. i'm sure this is evil talk, but i've done it. give the crank bolt as much torque as you can with a break bar, you won't strip the bolt unless it's already damaged. i like some of these fixes, interesting!

you missed the most likely reason already mentioned...the caliper slides. when you do a brake job, make sure you always grease the slides. did you clean and grease the slides the last time you did a brake job? also possible - calipers sticking. i've rebuilt a number of calipers it's actually very easy. push the piston out, clean it up, replace one seal, a clip and the dust boot and you're done. for the first time i'd order a used caliper to practice on (if you get it right just swap calipers) and also buy two rebuild sets in case you tear the rubber boot on your first go around. at $10 or less rebuild kits cover both sides. next time you're in there take note of all 4 pads (two on each side). compare them all and see if one is substantially more warn than the rest. any that are warn more than others are riding on the rotor too long and that would point to the slides needing to be greased or the caliper being sticky on that side.

$40 for each head where i go and they are expensive but i like them. there are shops that will do it cheaper.

agreed. i doubt he'll have people knocking down his door. make an offer and when he doesn't bite, stop back in a month and it'll still be there. $800 is through the roof for sure. many of us have gotten parts cars cheap, i've gotten 4 for free. hold out. you have the advantage since you really don't need it.

that's not too bad. take a large 4x8 sheet of heavy duty 3/4" plywood to slide under the car and wheel an engine lift onto it. out the motor comes. leave the transmission attached, just unbolt the trans cross member bolts and cut the cables/wires somewhere. much easier than trying to separate the engine from the trans and the engine will come out of the engine bay with the trans attached, plenty of room. or use plywood sheets under jacks to jack the car up high, place large sheet of carpet under the car. unbolt engine and transmission mounting bolts and let the entire assembly fall on the carpet. grab the carpet and slide it out the front. or take a bob cat out there with some chain to yank it out.

if you need a motor it's worth more to you than if you need an interior trim piece. $500 at most, i can't imagine anyone wanting to pay more than that for somethign that's wrecked and doesn't run. ...but i don't know what you need or how hard they are to find for you. low mileage is nice, but how long has it been there and it's a non running and damaged vehicle. engine will drop right into yours no problem, nothing tricky about it. remove engine, remove flexplate from engine, attach clutch stuff and you're done. at most you'd have to swap the bellhousing (very easy, just a couple bolts). swap just the blocks if the wiring harness is any different from auto to manual trans to keep things simple. in other words keep your intake manifold in your car and drop it on top of any other EA82 you can find.

you used a new gasket with sealant on both sides? is it leaking out the lip or bolt holes?