idosubaru

it's the HLA's making noise. first step is to change your oil. after that there are more things to look into but for now do that and get back to use. have that done and let us know how it goes and let us know how many miles on the engine? any recent work done to it?

yes if the ignitor is bad or not grounded properly it won't allow the coil to spark. as far as i know all EA82 (87 and up i suppose) and ER27 ignitors are interchangeable.

the transmissions will swap. tear it up! my old FWD 1988 XT manual was capable of 40 mpg on all highway driving.

change any suspect pulleys or repack the bearings. many subaru bearings can be repacked for a couple cents worth of grease like this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50430

i pull from inside and nothing happens on the latch, it doesn't move at all. for now i took the nut off the little latch that catches the door and pressed it in the body and took the spring off the door. took all of 25 seconds while the gas was pumping. at least the door opens and shuts by hand now. i may revisit this someday or leave it as is.

http://www.thepartsbin.com has them for not much money either and you can buy just 2 if you like. but then shipping... dealer charges me $2.13 around here and they usually have them in stock.

ah....right on turbone! use a head bolt to clean them. some people "doctor" them up for cleaning...cut a noth in them or something. i've never done it and if you don't have an extra then it does you no good anyway. use a head bolt, i've done that before and it works fine. keep cleaning the threads off as you go.

hardware stores, any tool supply stores?

there's directions on here how to make one. take a socket and cut/grind it down, etc. WJM also posted contact info and said it "should" be available from somewhere, i had no luck. you retorquing your ER27 or EA82T?

i've had no problems sourcing 11x1.25 tap at local stores.

hard to say....did you use Subaru OEM wires? if not, might want to consider that. did this stuff start happening shortly after replacing anything? that would point to something not being "just right".

they accomplish the same thing, power transfer, but in much different ways.

anyone know if these will fit the XT6? i know they are different looking and designed differently so probably not a good idea to swap. i'd be interested in a set for that motor though...

oh crack!! can you post a picture of it? you can get by with only one mounting bracket, you don't need both bolts in there. but i bet it's fixable if you can post a pic to help see where and how much metal you got to work with. for now one bolt should work fine, as it will work on one that isn't broken.

i'd replace the cap too, it's cheap enough to "give it a try". hope that does it.

this block is desired for high output builds, but requires alot of work? seems like even getting to 200 would be tough without touching the long block. it's also rated at 160 hp at 2800 rpm's. why so low? the NA version of the EJ22 rates peak hp at like 5600. i'm showing my lack of turbo knowledge.

in stock form the EJ22T is only 160 hp. without digging into the long block (pistons, heads, valves, cams) how much hp are they capable of on the stock ECU?

ER27, come on hot dog! you've already done the EA thing...mix it up!

shops will typically make pulleys for you at a reasonable cost. $100-$200 each. look around for local machine shops and give them a call. tell them you want an aluminum pulley made.

good point....someone with a bad distributor might give you there's. i have 3 bad ones somewhere but they are for an XT6. post in the parts wanted forum.

sounds like it's definitely low on refrigerant. problem is that i think your car is probably R-12. it'll likely end up being very expensive. remove the caps and see if you can see any bubbling or oil under the refrigerant caps, there are two on the a/c lines. just little plastic screw on caps. see if it looks wet under there. i've never heard of an a/c shop replacing them because in my oppinion they'll just replace a $500 compressor when really it only needed 50 cent schrader valves. if you get a confirmed diagnosis that's through the roof and you're close to DC (don't know where fairfax is), i might be able to have a look at it for you. i work in greenbelt, MD, just northeast of DC by 15 minutes.

i would not use any locktite or hardening agent on the head bolts, i don't think that's a good idea and would be a PITA down the road. if you follow the proper procedures for head gasket installation you should not have any problems. i'd use Subaru OEM headgaskets or something you have reason to believe is a high quality substitute. from there keep it simple and you'll be golden. follow the proper procedure. clean the crap out of the bolts holes. run a tap or clean head bolt down and out each and every hole in the block numerous times...this is where air tools help speed things up considerably but be careful it is an aluminum block. run the bolts/tap in and clean the threads when you pull it back out. do this until the bolt holes are spotless. blow compressed air down the holes too. when you install the gasket lightly coat the head bolt holes with oil to help them glide through the threads in the block as you torque them. if you follow this you won't have issues. dirty holes that don't torque properly and improper torquing will kill anything you throw at it. after that follow the torque procedure...except possibly making the final torque value higher than specification. look that up, plenty of information on the boards here about people doing that. good luck with it, the EA82 isn't bad at all to do a head gasket on. i've always done ER27's so the EA82 seems really easy.

never heard of that one, can you post a picture of it? stop by a couple muffler shops, i bet they'd weld back together for a few dollars. i wouldn't try any epoxy or JB weld type stuff. won't hold up to all the vibrations and loads on it. you should be able to drill and tap it together with some angle iron or pieces of metal to get it to work but i wouldn't do it that way. should be able to score a used distributor for $25-$40. that's probably the way to go. post on this site in the "parts wanted forum" someone might let one go for cheap actually. EA82's aren't that rare on this board!

important question - is the compressor coming on when you turn the a/c on? is the clutch engaging? it's very easy to tell with the hood open. if it's low on coolant, remove both caps on the a/c system and look carefully down into them. common leakage occurs at the valve stem inside of them. it can be very hard to tell if it's leaking by just a visual check but sometimes you can see some wetness or bubbling at the base of the valve stem and this would indicate a leak. this is the most common cause of leaks with the exception of accidents (which break something) that i've seen. and new valve stems cost about 50 cents. i just replaced mine this summer. be careful on the "x amount to recharge" quotes. in typical cheeseball fashion they will give you a relatively cheap quote on charging it. then once they look at it or pull a vaccuum they'll say it's got a leak and they can't charge it until it's fixed or it'll leak out anyway and it's against the law and blah blah blah.....you get the point. then they'll follow that up with you needing some major component and a $1,000 bill. if it's low on refrigerant i doubt you're probably loosing refrigerant from some where and they're unlikely to recharge it blindly like that. if it's a R134 system, buy a $10 can and do it yourself. it's very easy.

good point, when you reassemble them smear the threads with antiseize lubricant and don't tigthen them much at all. often requires vice grips to unthread the screw from the insert once you have it apart. otherwise you'll gouge it all up.