idosubaru

a few on here have bought them with good experience. it's also been said that they require heftier fees and taxes as the cars age so the older they become the more likely they are to get rid of them...at an early age. at a certain mileage/age, not sure which it's driven by, those costs don't justify not buying a newer vehicle.

due to condition of the car and financial reasons your best bet is to swap a 2.2 liter motor in it's place. all you need is a complete 2.2 (including power steering pump and hoses) and it'll drop right in. plugs right into the existing wiring and computer, direct swap. if it's not a 1995 2.2 you'll need the first section of exhaust too...the y-pipe that bolts to the 2.2. if you have that it'll bolt right up. i have a motor i'd sell you for $250 if you were on the east coast. around here you can also find 2.2's in pull it yourself yards for $125 no problems. i would never buy a used 2.5 and expect much from it. (that's just me, others would be fine with it). i bought a low mileage 1.8 earlier this year and it had a bad headgasket. others have bought them no problems. $1,400 is alot more than you need to spend and the 2.2 is more reliable in my oppinion. post in the parts wanted forum here, someone close to you probably has a 2.2 for cheap.

ding ding ding...just as i suspected. get Subaru OEM wires. (or magnecor, that's what i use). anything else is susceptible to exactly what you're describing. the 2.2 and 2.5 engine layout is not very forgiving, the wires need to be high quality on these motors.

never have a CEL light? mileage on the car? any recent maintenance done? when were the plugs/wires replaced last? are they Subaru OEM or aftermarket wires?

that's the crank pulley, the motor will turn with it. knock the end of the ratchet with a hammer (pseudo-impact style) and sometimes they come loose that way. otherwise peg the flexplate in the back if it's an auto trans or put it in gear with the brakes on if it's a manual trans. the quick and dirty method that others are scared of is to hang the socket on the pulley, make sure it has something solid to rest against (motor mount is easy on the XT6, but EA82's don't have a front one i think)...and bump the starter really quick (don't start the car...unplug the coil so it won't start). hang the socket, unplug coil wire plug, bump starter and yo'ure done in 7 seconds.

XT6 only. some places list that they carry an aftermarket, they are ALL WRONG, don't bother asking if it's really for an XT6, im' telling you they are not. because none were ever made. they will be for a 4 cyliner EA82 XT. they can work but the mounts don't line up, the fan holes don't line up and the inlet/outlets are smaller than the XT6 and the radiator is much smaller. they are adaptable, those arne't problems that are hard to over come. some people have used them....they are probably better than what's on there if it's old!!!!

i think it's 22mm...but it could be 21...memory is failing. have a long pipe to put over the handle to help break it loose, it'll be very tight if it hasn't been off in awhile. use pipe to reinstall, make sure it's TIGHT when you're done or it'll come off while running and that aint good.

it's the sensor in the radiator. water temperature sensor at the thermostat doesn't affect the fans. the one in the radiator does. two different sensors. seems like the fan should come on sooner. clogged radiator, i'd try flushing or cleaning it out first. or replace it. thermostat? after you start it, feel the hoses. if d/s gets faster quicker than p/s you may have a problem with the radiator. or water pump/thermostat. in my experience the radiator is usually the problem. i've never had a water pump, thermostat or temp sensor fail. they CAN, i'm just saying i've never had any of those fail but i've had about 6 bad radiators...if not more. missing fins, rotted out, leaking, cracked tanks, clogged up....lots of issues with the rads.

used ones: lakeland has one, $50: 1-800-922-9676 and clearwater has one: 1-727-573-7751

check out pictures of the UFO (unidentified fueling object) at: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1992&make=SU&model=LOY-4WD-001&category=All&part=Fuel%20Pump&dp=true then check out that $262 price tag!!!! fuel pressure regulator is usually in the engine bay as far as i know and also typically uses vaccuum. but maybe there's an additional regulator at the pump too? either way it's not replaceable as far as i know, still need the pump assembly. it does look like one...whos knows. find another pump though and you're golden. post the parts wanted section, someone probably has one to send you.

that UFO thing is part of the fuel pump assembly, he'll likely need a new fuel pump if it's not the hoses.

nope not normal. does it do it all the time, even at highway speeds? you need to fix this now or your headgaskets will be mean to you. i've owned about 15 and the gauge rides about 1/3 of the way up at most. definitely not halfway, up to halfway and something isn't right. if it stays cool at highspeed but not at idle it's probably just the fan not turning on. if the fan never comes on, sounds like you found your problem. check the sensor for the fan (the one that is screwed into the bottom of the radiator on the passengers side tank) and the relay....i forget which relay it is though. the radiators on these jokers are OLD, has yours ever been replaced? most of them i get are questionable at best. they need replacing and most people don't because there are no aftermarket sources for a direct fit radiator and dealers want $400-$600 for one. (you can get them for $300 online sometimes). more details would help...mileage, condition, anything replaced, overheats all the time no matter what....

that's the fuel pump. there are hoses and clamps. if it's just the hose or clamps leaking you only need new hoses/clamps. the fuel pump can fail and leak as well...usually when they are severly rusted but i'm sure it can happen other ways as well. in this case you'd need a new fuel pump. they are typically expensive new...approaching or exceeing $100. used for $25 or so. the pictures are blurry so i can't tell where it's leaking from.

also if you have multiple codes in "read memory mode" with the green connector connected you can clear the codes to start fresh. in other words if you have 5 codes, 4 might be 2 years old and one is the recent trouble maker. if that's the case i believe you connect both connectors to clear the codes. then the memory will be cleared. first time you see the CE light after this, check the read memory mode again and the one stored code that you're looking for should flash. this all sounds more complicated than it is..

i know and have talked to a guy that put an ER27 (XT6 engine) in his 914. He also has done an EA82T swap into it as well, then went to the ER27, i spoke to him about some issue he was having a few years ago. He has a webpage with pictures of it here: http://www.etischer.com/914xt6.html

i should qualify those comments since it's always XT6 related. it's probably XT6 only...it always is. same thing here, i placed an order that included something they no longer carried. on one hand it probably shouldn't be listed...they emailed, didn't charge and sent the other items. it was seemless and required no effort on my part. Beck Arnley has two styles of headgaskets. Same part number but one has the thin black rubber stripping around it and the other does not. I ordered two and got one of each??? He ordered 3 more to see if he could get another with the rubber ring on it...don't know if it does anything but "looks" better. I checked back in a week and he didn't have anything, never asked again after that as I haven't needed them yet.

should be some R12 left in there. as soon as you crack the line....the pressure will drop only to the point where it's in equilibrium with amospheric pressure then no more will come out unless it's forced or pulled out. what i've found is it's best to replace any o-rings and both schrader valves once the system is open. for $1.00 in parts it's silly not to and really easy. also check the...what's the radiator looking thing in front of the radiator...i think that's the condensor, check that as it's the most prone to leakage in my experience due to accidents, rocks, debris, etc. after that charge away. a friend told me to pull all the R12 out, use R134 that has R12 compatible oil and charge with 134. i've followed that, always replace the o-rings and schrader valves and it works great. vaccuum pullers can be had for 10 - 20 bucks from harbor freights. seems to do the trick. gauges are nice for seeing a leak, but if you don't have them, pull a vaccuum and let the car sit overnight. press the schrader valve in with a screwdriver and if you hear it sucking/pulling air in that means it held a vaccuum over night and is probably good to go. if it leaks the pressure will equalize with atmosphere overnight and you won't hear anything when you press the valve in the next day. not ideal, but it's a way to do it without gauges.

when the CE light is on, the ECU in the trunk will flash the code. as soon as you see the light, leave the car running and read the code off the ECU LED. there's a stored memory mode you can access if you can't read the code while the light is on. it involves either connecting the green connectors, black connectors or both (they hang right by the ECU and should remain unplugged for normal driving). they are for testing, but i forget which ones to connect for read memory mode.

i like their prices but not that they show 4 cylinder EA82 parts when drilling down for an XT6 (6 cylinder ER27). part no fit, do no good! other than that they have great prices and have always sent the right thing...well, the thing i ordered i should say! actually i've never ordered the wrong thing either, if it's questionable i no clickly and get it elsewhere. i've use Fel-Pro gaskets and OEM both with good luck a number of times, but haven't gotten a chance to put many miles on them. Have about 30-40,000 on a set of Fel-Pro's on one of my XT6's. The corteco's look nice as well, i've gotten a few sets of those. when replacing the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets the Subaru OEM and Corteco ones are thicker and nicer looking than the Fel-Pro ones i've gotten. Of course they aren't nearly as critical or prone to failure though.

in my experience subaru brake systems seem to be fine with aftermarket stuff. i'd get good quality pads though, not the cheapest thing you can buy. i'm not a brake expert so i'll refrain from specific suggestions. your process sounds about right. remove master cylinder cap and press the caliper piston back in place is all i would add. i have a large eyedropper to suck any brake fluid out that may overflow as i push the piston back in. some subaru's (not sure about the later models) have set screws in the rotors. these are really annoying if you can't get them out. i usually just drill them out and don't reinstall them, many (most) cars don't have them anyway. impact screwdrivers are the cleaner method. on the rears...if they're anything like the e-brake calipers i'm used to you'll need the generic 4 dollar box brake tool at the auto parts store for turning the pistons in. they have to be turned in rather than pushed in.

maybe the oil on the ground was from the previous guy on the side of the road? if it did leak oil you need to see where it was coming from on your engine.

date doesn't matter, how many miles? how many miles on the car? also - does the sound seem to come from one side, one cylinder or all over? does it change or move across the engine so to speak? this can help point to something affecting them all (oil pump) or something at one cylinder (HLA). yes. but they also don't. there are many variations and possibilites. they don't have to do the same thing every time in every vehicle. why was the oil pressure sensor replaced? what does it read on the gauge? depending on mileage, i'd attempt an oil change. if that doesn't do it you're looking at one of three scenarios: replace the oil pump seals add some seafoam or ATF to the oil or start pulling the cams and replacing HLA's (very expensive but rarely needed). the easiest of those three is to add seafoam or ATF to your oil. this has been discussed about 199,234,233,233,112,123 times on the board, using the search will give you all the info you need for that. after that you're looking at replacing the oil pump seals. no need to replace the pump, just the 5 dollars seals. but it requires removing the timing belt so if you're not doing it yourself it's $$$$. for now...keep the music and windows up!

do a search on "headgasket" and see how many 2.5's come up. not to scare you, but to help you make the best decision possible. it's not really THAT bad, since of course a site like this typically brings all the trouble children to the forefront. but you'll see more headgasket issues with the 2.5 than other subaru motors. others will disagree, but i say search the forum here and let the number of problems/threads speak for themselves rather that start the 34th thread debating this same topic. get one cheap with a blown motor and swap in a turbo 2.0 or 2.2. i've seen 5-10 local 2.5's with blown headgaskets this year so far that could have been gotten cheap. don't see many RS's though, i don't recall seeing any locally at least. they are harder to come by than outbacks, foresters, legacy.... and hey, welcome maryland...

no need to pull the engine. like already mentioned the engine mounts needed to be loosened or removed. i also loosen the rear trans mounts to "tilt" the engine/trans assembly in order to pull the oil pan up. you'll be able to access all the bolts just fine. that's not the tricky part. after it's unbolted it will not come out. the oil pan has baffles in it that the sump will not clear without tilting the engine upwards. i learned the hardway. unbolted the pan before i knew jack about cars. pan does not come out...yank yank, bang bang and it's seemingly invisibly possessed and won't come out. moves around alot, but won't come out. are you sure the oil pan is leaking? other leaks can drain down toward the pan and make it appear wet but it's not actually leaking. i'd do this last unless it's really bad.

in this case it's an OEM part. Subaru OEM parts are outsourced to various companies. in some cases these parts are available through other (non OEM) sources. i can't stand the rockauto website. it's rediculously inefficient. look up the XT6 and it shows 4 cylinder parts all over the place...i don't know what the point is of drilling down if it's going to list 4 cylinder parts for a 6 cylinder vehicle. no other site does that...... okay i'm done.