idosubaru

sounds like they're being fair. i'd expect $50-$100 to have a crack welded on the exhaust. hour of time and they need some padding for shop supplies...cleaner, rags, welding materials, overhead....etc. it can be done cheaper, but i don't think you got ripped off (and i'm very skeptical of shops!!) yes it's a quick and easy job.....if you have a nice couple thousand dollar lift, a couple thousand dollars of welding supplies and materials handy.

you're not limited to 1995, the 1995 is no more a direct swap than later years. the a/c bracket and p/s lines are still to be taken into account. if you get a newer one, the only difference at all will be the exhaust. you'll only need the first exhaust piece, the manifold that bolts to the engine. if you're going rebuilt or don't care about cost then sticking with a 1995 is a great idea, but other years are exactly the same with the exception of that one part. earlier models have other issues, i wouldn't go pre-1995. EGR related maybe...i forget but you'd want to look into that a bit more if that's an option you want pursue. good luck and have fun. let us know how it goes! check with CCR if you want a rebuild, they are highly regarded by a number of members here and are subaru specialists.

good, this is easy to fix and i'm going to save you $18...though it might require some work on your part. don't waste your $18 on a new sensor. it won't fix the problem. to be more accurate, it will fix the problem but only temporarily. the sensors never fail, the contacts get dirty and corroded. a new sensor has new contacts so it will "fix" the problem but only for a short period of time. here's the permanent fix i do to all of mine: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=temperature

i agree 100%. unless intake bolt breakage is isolated to certain parts of the country...i've seen it happen on at least 50% of the intakes i've removed. at least one bolt would shear off and get stuck in the head. very annoying and not worth the trouble in my oppinion. now i just weld a nut to the end of the stud that's left and use a socket to get it out. works great every time. one day i'll end up with a bolt that shears flush with nothing to weld too. grrrrr.....

hey josh, quit calling me nipper!!!! gary

no special tools required. a big pair of channel locks (pliars so to speak) helps on some of the fittings but a wrench should work fine. you'll want a schrader valve removal tool...any auto parts store has them and they cost about $3-$5. it's for threading the schrader valves. you'll want to remove the old and install the new one. they even make a very special tool that allows you to replace the valve without opening up the system at all and loosing refrigerant, they are really sweet but pricey! refrigerant (R134a) can be bought at any parts store....wal-mart probably even has it at this point.

is there an easy way to tell? something to look at...a part, a sticker....etc?

j, yes i read your pages, found those in a search. thanks! i was kind of hoping you'd chime in! i can't imagine it would be to complicated. is a 1999 legacy a 2nd or 3rd generation? i think the 3rd generation had some rear diff changes or something? but that was 2000 i think.

pretty sure this should be very simple for you. unless you know exactly what happened to it, i wouldn't want that motor in my car if it were a long term daily driver. why did the cam seize, did anything compromise the block? not sure about the forester, but it almost has to be the same as legacy and outback 2.5 of the same year. you're in luck, it's a straight forward swap. the EJ22 will plug right into your EJ25 wiring harness, don't even need to swap the ECU. what you will need: an EJ22 1995-1998 (other years work but are different and may pose issues) swap the 2.5 a/c bracket on your car to the 2.2. a 2.2 exhaust header/ypipe, just the part that bolts to the engine, the other side will bolt right up to your existing exhaust (at least it does on the non-forester 2.5's). if you use a 1995 EJ22 you won't need the header as this year has dual port heads just like your EJ25. get the power steering pump and the lines from the pump to the steering rack from the EJ22. that's it, swap away. use the search function, there's some excellent information on this swap on the boards.

if it's leaking at the corner...i'd look to just replace the o-rings. the condensor shouldn't be leaking unless it has signs of damage from road debris or front end collossion. baring that, i'd assume the 30 cent o-ring is leaking at the fitting. i'd buy a bag of o-rings, swap out all the easy ones you can get too. then buy two new schrader valves and the 3 dollar schrader valve tool to replace them with. you're talking 5 dollars in parts, replace all that and you're probably good to go with a recharge. or swap the condensor if you trust the midas guys. after you do the work, have someone pull a vaccuum and charge it for you. they shouldn't charge much for that. $50 - $100 tops. or charge it yourself, you'll have some residual air in the system. i don't do that, but i have friends that have done it and they're A/C works just as good...dang it i have to admit my friends freaking honda works much better tahn mine and he didn't pull a vaccuum....his has been working flawlessly for over 2 years. but this isn't the "proper" way to do it.

will an EJ22 transmission from a 1997 OBS swap into a 1999 Legacy Auto? i realize all that's required for an auto to manual swap and the gearing being different (swap rear diff). will the 99 EJ25 accept the 97 EJ22 trans? will the ECU need to be swapped as well?

i would not use an e-z out or similar type extractor, they absolutley suck. let me put it this way...if an e-z out works, the thing would have come out with something else. is this an EA82? i don't know if EA81's have PCV valves or not, that's why i'm asking. i think the thing will come out. is there anything left to grab or touch of the old PCV? welding a bolt to it would be the ideal way then a socket will back it right out. that's how i remove sheared off studs. works great every time. only need a little bit of metal to get it to work. i like the heating method too. you want to heat the intake manifold around the PCV valve and not heat the valve at all. as a matter of fact, cool it if possible. this method works wonders on some things. if there's any "hole" inside the PCV valve that you can get too, i'd wonder if you could get some thin needle nose pliers inside of it? get the tip of the pliers in the hole, open them against the PCV valve as hard as you can while turning. it may break loose. spray it down heavy with liquid wrench and PB blaster ahead of time. with a dremel you can cut a large notch across what's left of the PCV and then use a flat head screwdriver to turn it out. can you post a picture? if you can tap the "inside" of the PCV valve..find a tap about the size of the inner passage, i would bet that you could use the strongest locktite they make, insert a bolt in the threaded hole. let the locktite set over night and harden, then extract it with a socket on the bolt. i don't think it'd be too hard to get out, just need to be a little creative.

wowsers, glad everyone is okay. that's terrible. post pictures of the damage, these guys are good, they can probably help alot with fixing it. what impacted first? the wheel, fender, bumper, door? i have a 97 impreza OBS with good front bumper if that works for you let me know.

fuel pump cycles on as part of the test mode, that's fine and good. it's working as it should. if you get no codes in the test mode, that's good. you need to look at the codes the ECu flashes when the CEL comes on or do the read memory thing i already mentioned. this is very unlikely to be fuel related, trust me. it is most likely coolant temperature sensor related. notice i said "related", not the coolant temp sensor itself. but i'll let you snag the codes before getting ahead of myself. no, let's get ahead...by the thermostat housing (the second radiator cap that's not on the radiator), there's a 2 wire connector. this is the CTS coolant temp sensor. is the wiring harness corroded, cracked, brittle, dirty? pull it off and have a look inside. see the green, nasty, corrossion. that's your problem..... let us know what code you snag.

a few on here have bought them with good experience. it's also been said that they require heftier fees and taxes as the cars age so the older they become the more likely they are to get rid of them...at an early age. at a certain mileage/age, not sure which it's driven by, those costs don't justify not buying a newer vehicle.

due to condition of the car and financial reasons your best bet is to swap a 2.2 liter motor in it's place. all you need is a complete 2.2 (including power steering pump and hoses) and it'll drop right in. plugs right into the existing wiring and computer, direct swap. if it's not a 1995 2.2 you'll need the first section of exhaust too...the y-pipe that bolts to the 2.2. if you have that it'll bolt right up. i have a motor i'd sell you for $250 if you were on the east coast. around here you can also find 2.2's in pull it yourself yards for $125 no problems. i would never buy a used 2.5 and expect much from it. (that's just me, others would be fine with it). i bought a low mileage 1.8 earlier this year and it had a bad headgasket. others have bought them no problems. $1,400 is alot more than you need to spend and the 2.2 is more reliable in my oppinion. post in the parts wanted forum here, someone close to you probably has a 2.2 for cheap.

ding ding ding...just as i suspected. get Subaru OEM wires. (or magnecor, that's what i use). anything else is susceptible to exactly what you're describing. the 2.2 and 2.5 engine layout is not very forgiving, the wires need to be high quality on these motors.

never have a CEL light? mileage on the car? any recent maintenance done? when were the plugs/wires replaced last? are they Subaru OEM or aftermarket wires?

that's the crank pulley, the motor will turn with it. knock the end of the ratchet with a hammer (pseudo-impact style) and sometimes they come loose that way. otherwise peg the flexplate in the back if it's an auto trans or put it in gear with the brakes on if it's a manual trans. the quick and dirty method that others are scared of is to hang the socket on the pulley, make sure it has something solid to rest against (motor mount is easy on the XT6, but EA82's don't have a front one i think)...and bump the starter really quick (don't start the car...unplug the coil so it won't start). hang the socket, unplug coil wire plug, bump starter and yo'ure done in 7 seconds.

XT6 only. some places list that they carry an aftermarket, they are ALL WRONG, don't bother asking if it's really for an XT6, im' telling you they are not. because none were ever made. they will be for a 4 cyliner EA82 XT. they can work but the mounts don't line up, the fan holes don't line up and the inlet/outlets are smaller than the XT6 and the radiator is much smaller. they are adaptable, those arne't problems that are hard to over come. some people have used them....they are probably better than what's on there if it's old!!!!

i think it's 22mm...but it could be 21...memory is failing. have a long pipe to put over the handle to help break it loose, it'll be very tight if it hasn't been off in awhile. use pipe to reinstall, make sure it's TIGHT when you're done or it'll come off while running and that aint good.

it's the sensor in the radiator. water temperature sensor at the thermostat doesn't affect the fans. the one in the radiator does. two different sensors. seems like the fan should come on sooner. clogged radiator, i'd try flushing or cleaning it out first. or replace it. thermostat? after you start it, feel the hoses. if d/s gets faster quicker than p/s you may have a problem with the radiator. or water pump/thermostat. in my experience the radiator is usually the problem. i've never had a water pump, thermostat or temp sensor fail. they CAN, i'm just saying i've never had any of those fail but i've had about 6 bad radiators...if not more. missing fins, rotted out, leaking, cracked tanks, clogged up....lots of issues with the rads.

used ones: lakeland has one, $50: 1-800-922-9676 and clearwater has one: 1-727-573-7751

check out pictures of the UFO (unidentified fueling object) at: http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/thepartsbin/wizard.jsp?year=1992&make=SU&model=LOY-4WD-001&category=All&part=Fuel%20Pump&dp=true then check out that $262 price tag!!!! fuel pressure regulator is usually in the engine bay as far as i know and also typically uses vaccuum. but maybe there's an additional regulator at the pump too? either way it's not replaceable as far as i know, still need the pump assembly. it does look like one...whos knows. find another pump though and you're golden. post the parts wanted section, someone probably has one to send you.

that UFO thing is part of the fuel pump assembly, he'll likely need a new fuel pump if it's not the hoses.