idosubaru

are you saying the water pump is leaking? some brand new water pumps will seep slightly the first time you run the engine. it will seal up after that. otherwise you need a new pump and gasket like shawn said.

if it's a hot wire anemometer type MAF it'll have very tiny hair-thin wires located within the airflow. if one of these tiny strands breaks it can cause driveability issues. pull the sensor and just look through it into a light. a broken strand will indicate a bad sensor for sure. get a used one and swap it in. i have a used MAF i'd sell you for way less than 300 pounds...whatever that is!!!

you're not trying to remove the differential oil dipstick are you? that's threaded on some vehicles. ATF is on drivers side, front diff is on passengers side i believe.

me too!

in an AWD XT6 the auto and manual trans... they are both capable of the same highway gas mileage at cruising speed. in this case the XT6 cruising RPM is reduced at the same speed between auto and manual trans. in the auto you're doing 750 less RPM (roughly) for the same speed at highway cruising speeds. this makes for a much quieter ride as well. the AWD auto and manual transmissions end up having nearly identical highway gas mileage figures. i've read that peak torque is optimum cruising RPM for best gas mileage. i don't know where peak torque is on the XT6 but i do know that the auto and manuals get the same gas mileage and i'm guessing it's due to the different gearing.

brian, according to nasioc it should be a 4.44 in the automatics. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10428

nah, just a joke (i found it funny since nipper and i are often posting together anyway....)

then once you get that down, google guassian surfaces, real fun stuff.....NOT! are these OEM subaru plug wires? if they are aftermarket off the autoparts store shelf then they need to go.

a FSM wiring diagram would be very helpful at this point. you need to find out what fuse, fusible link, or wiring harness is common to all these items. i would bet one glance at the wiring diagram will point to what exact components are common....one fuse, one fusible link, one wiring connector, one ground...and one of those will be the issue.

i sort of covered this earlier. you can do all the work yourself and then have a shop pull the vacuum for you. this is probably your most likely choice. then you charge it (or let them do it if they want to be reasonable). pulling a vaccuum should be very inexpensive, they hook it up to a machine and leave it sit. takes all of a few minutes. they even have computerized machines now that the mechanic hooks up and it automatically finishes the entire job without any work required from a person. it pulls a vaccuum, checks for leaks...stops if it detects any leak, or continues with charging it. all automated, pretty nifty. anyway...shouldn't be expensive at all. or...you can do all the work yourself and just charge it the way it is. i've had friends do it and have yet to see any of those vehicles fail. i don't do it this way nor do i think it's the best method, i'm only telling you what my friends have done against my recommendations and they all still work???? or...you can do the ghetto method of leaving air out of the sytem by charging the system on one side and letting it blow out the other...use an extra can or so but it will blow out some of the air/moisture in the lines, again not the preferred way and others on here will be incensed that i even mentioned it but it was shown to me by a Maryland licensed HVAC mechanic. or you can buy a vaccuum puller and do it yourself. the kind that hook to an air compressor can be had for 9 or 19 dollars from harbor freight. don't know what stand alone electric ones cost.

i recall your other posts from before john, thanks for the follow up. i remember you saying a 98 and 99 would not swap as far as automatics are concerned. but that shouldn't matter for a manual trans swap....unless the block is exceptionally different. thanks again...

sounds like they're being fair. i'd expect $50-$100 to have a crack welded on the exhaust. hour of time and they need some padding for shop supplies...cleaner, rags, welding materials, overhead....etc. it can be done cheaper, but i don't think you got ripped off (and i'm very skeptical of shops!!) yes it's a quick and easy job.....if you have a nice couple thousand dollar lift, a couple thousand dollars of welding supplies and materials handy.

you're not limited to 1995, the 1995 is no more a direct swap than later years. the a/c bracket and p/s lines are still to be taken into account. if you get a newer one, the only difference at all will be the exhaust. you'll only need the first exhaust piece, the manifold that bolts to the engine. if you're going rebuilt or don't care about cost then sticking with a 1995 is a great idea, but other years are exactly the same with the exception of that one part. earlier models have other issues, i wouldn't go pre-1995. EGR related maybe...i forget but you'd want to look into that a bit more if that's an option you want pursue. good luck and have fun. let us know how it goes! check with CCR if you want a rebuild, they are highly regarded by a number of members here and are subaru specialists.

good, this is easy to fix and i'm going to save you $18...though it might require some work on your part. don't waste your $18 on a new sensor. it won't fix the problem. to be more accurate, it will fix the problem but only temporarily. the sensors never fail, the contacts get dirty and corroded. a new sensor has new contacts so it will "fix" the problem but only for a short period of time. here's the permanent fix i do to all of mine: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=temperature

i agree 100%. unless intake bolt breakage is isolated to certain parts of the country...i've seen it happen on at least 50% of the intakes i've removed. at least one bolt would shear off and get stuck in the head. very annoying and not worth the trouble in my oppinion. now i just weld a nut to the end of the stud that's left and use a socket to get it out. works great every time. one day i'll end up with a bolt that shears flush with nothing to weld too. grrrrr.....

hey josh, quit calling me nipper!!!! gary

no special tools required. a big pair of channel locks (pliars so to speak) helps on some of the fittings but a wrench should work fine. you'll want a schrader valve removal tool...any auto parts store has them and they cost about $3-$5. it's for threading the schrader valves. you'll want to remove the old and install the new one. they even make a very special tool that allows you to replace the valve without opening up the system at all and loosing refrigerant, they are really sweet but pricey! refrigerant (R134a) can be bought at any parts store....wal-mart probably even has it at this point.

is there an easy way to tell? something to look at...a part, a sticker....etc?

j, yes i read your pages, found those in a search. thanks! i was kind of hoping you'd chime in! i can't imagine it would be to complicated. is a 1999 legacy a 2nd or 3rd generation? i think the 3rd generation had some rear diff changes or something? but that was 2000 i think.

pretty sure this should be very simple for you. unless you know exactly what happened to it, i wouldn't want that motor in my car if it were a long term daily driver. why did the cam seize, did anything compromise the block? not sure about the forester, but it almost has to be the same as legacy and outback 2.5 of the same year. you're in luck, it's a straight forward swap. the EJ22 will plug right into your EJ25 wiring harness, don't even need to swap the ECU. what you will need: an EJ22 1995-1998 (other years work but are different and may pose issues) swap the 2.5 a/c bracket on your car to the 2.2. a 2.2 exhaust header/ypipe, just the part that bolts to the engine, the other side will bolt right up to your existing exhaust (at least it does on the non-forester 2.5's). if you use a 1995 EJ22 you won't need the header as this year has dual port heads just like your EJ25. get the power steering pump and the lines from the pump to the steering rack from the EJ22. that's it, swap away. use the search function, there's some excellent information on this swap on the boards.

if it's leaking at the corner...i'd look to just replace the o-rings. the condensor shouldn't be leaking unless it has signs of damage from road debris or front end collossion. baring that, i'd assume the 30 cent o-ring is leaking at the fitting. i'd buy a bag of o-rings, swap out all the easy ones you can get too. then buy two new schrader valves and the 3 dollar schrader valve tool to replace them with. you're talking 5 dollars in parts, replace all that and you're probably good to go with a recharge. or swap the condensor if you trust the midas guys. after you do the work, have someone pull a vaccuum and charge it for you. they shouldn't charge much for that. $50 - $100 tops. or charge it yourself, you'll have some residual air in the system. i don't do that, but i have friends that have done it and they're A/C works just as good...dang it i have to admit my friends freaking honda works much better tahn mine and he didn't pull a vaccuum....his has been working flawlessly for over 2 years. but this isn't the "proper" way to do it.

will an EJ22 transmission from a 1997 OBS swap into a 1999 Legacy Auto? i realize all that's required for an auto to manual swap and the gearing being different (swap rear diff). will the 99 EJ25 accept the 97 EJ22 trans? will the ECU need to be swapped as well?

i would not use an e-z out or similar type extractor, they absolutley suck. let me put it this way...if an e-z out works, the thing would have come out with something else. is this an EA82? i don't know if EA81's have PCV valves or not, that's why i'm asking. i think the thing will come out. is there anything left to grab or touch of the old PCV? welding a bolt to it would be the ideal way then a socket will back it right out. that's how i remove sheared off studs. works great every time. only need a little bit of metal to get it to work. i like the heating method too. you want to heat the intake manifold around the PCV valve and not heat the valve at all. as a matter of fact, cool it if possible. this method works wonders on some things. if there's any "hole" inside the PCV valve that you can get too, i'd wonder if you could get some thin needle nose pliers inside of it? get the tip of the pliers in the hole, open them against the PCV valve as hard as you can while turning. it may break loose. spray it down heavy with liquid wrench and PB blaster ahead of time. with a dremel you can cut a large notch across what's left of the PCV and then use a flat head screwdriver to turn it out. can you post a picture? if you can tap the "inside" of the PCV valve..find a tap about the size of the inner passage, i would bet that you could use the strongest locktite they make, insert a bolt in the threaded hole. let the locktite set over night and harden, then extract it with a socket on the bolt. i don't think it'd be too hard to get out, just need to be a little creative.

wowsers, glad everyone is okay. that's terrible. post pictures of the damage, these guys are good, they can probably help alot with fixing it. what impacted first? the wheel, fender, bumper, door? i have a 97 impreza OBS with good front bumper if that works for you let me know.

fuel pump cycles on as part of the test mode, that's fine and good. it's working as it should. if you get no codes in the test mode, that's good. you need to look at the codes the ECu flashes when the CEL comes on or do the read memory thing i already mentioned. this is very unlikely to be fuel related, trust me. it is most likely coolant temperature sensor related. notice i said "related", not the coolant temp sensor itself. but i'll let you snag the codes before getting ahead of myself. no, let's get ahead...by the thermostat housing (the second radiator cap that's not on the radiator), there's a 2 wire connector. this is the CTS coolant temp sensor. is the wiring harness corroded, cracked, brittle, dirty? pull it off and have a look inside. see the green, nasty, corrossion. that's your problem..... let us know what code you snag.