idosubaru

you mean XT6...completely different animal between XT and XT6. the XT radiators can be had for under a $100 on the internet or at stores for just over $100. the XT6 radiator is Subaru OEM only. don't bother trying to find one, no aftermarket radiator manufacturer ever made one for the XT6. if you try to look you will find place that say they can get them, but they are wrong, they will always be XT radiators...eventhough their computers say XT6. your options are Subaru New OEM - $400 - $600 at the dealer. you can get them from some on-line Subaru dealers for around $300. used ones can be found for $50 - $100 but that's not a good solution as they are typically 20 years old almost. overheating is bad, don't cut corners like this. you can attempt to retrofit the much cheaper XT radiator. get an XT radiator hose to help install. i haven't done it but know others that have. Cut about 2 inches of XT radiator hose (it is smaller than the XT6) and install that on the radiator outlet pipe. then install the XT6 hose over top. do this for the inlet pipe too. then you'll have to play with fitment i believe as well, the bottom brackets won't line up with the holes in the XT6 radiator support, but with some creativity it can be made to work. same goes with the fans, i don't think the mounting holes of the XT6 fans will line up, but that can be remedied fairly easily as well.

$500, that's insane alright. get a used one (or two).

you could drill out the intake manifold hole to accept something larger. can you post a picture of the fubar'ed hole? it probably is fixable but easier to see and suggest a specific plan of attack than just guess. i would use gasket maker with the JB weld fix, i'm not a fan of JB weld. seen it crumbled apart too many times....at like 10,000 or 20,000 miles after using it. that's not reliable enough for me.

good call sweden, crank and cam sensors are good for doing that as well...forgot about those. but i think "cylinder misfire" codes are normally ignition wire related.

some of that tacky sealant they use on water pumps may help if the fix is questionable or the two bolt method is used. if others have done the two bolt method and you don't want to try other options i'd use some of that tacky gasket prep stuff and try that. it's an easy enough job an shouldnt' leave you stranded that it may be worth a try since others have gotten it to work. and be sure both surfaces are spotless.

cool, same as legacy. i figured it was there or in the dash somewhere. thanks!

part number for the brushes: 31266GA340 and they are still available. never heard of anyone buying the o-ring/seal kit. i'd match some up or measure. generic brushes can be found too, any automotive electrical shop can have a look at the old ones and the end cap of the pump (that houses the brushes) and get you a set for a couple dollars.

where is it? 1997 2.2 liter impreza outback sport.

if it needs anything...be sure to price out SVX parts before making a decisions. windshields....$700.......some throttle/idle controller runs $200 and is nearly impossible to find used.....parts are very expensive and hard to find.

it's not that hard to do, happens regularly. mods can cut and paste to the proper thread if they find it and have the time.

i think the issue isn't what you're saying but posting to the wrong thread accidentally. check my link above, the one before your last reply, is that the thread you're trying to follow along with? torque peak and gas mileage has nothing to do with Sean's girlfriend wrecking her car (this thread...)

i think he meant to post that in another thread, this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60673

dude that damage does not look bad all. that looks totally fixable. a come-a-long anchored to a tree will pull that all out. there are better minds on this board for body work than me so i'll let them pipe up but that actually looks relatively straight forward. i don't think it would take much at all to get that back into shape. and i don't think you'd need those front top and bottom supports either, they look fine. again, i'll defer to the more experienced peeps. make a new thread with a different title about body work or something for those that aren't following this.

no need to tear that head off the block. follow instructions of the previous post. i'd have to see the hole to determine what i'd do. i'd look to enlarge the hole as little as possible. the intake bolts aren't torqued very tight at all so you don't need much to work with. does the stock sized bolt fit in there at all? i'd find the smallest sized bolt that will fit...like the next size up from stock. tap the threads to that bolt and drill the intake hole out larger. i'd drill the head as little as possible.

are you saying the water pump is leaking? some brand new water pumps will seep slightly the first time you run the engine. it will seal up after that. otherwise you need a new pump and gasket like shawn said.

if it's a hot wire anemometer type MAF it'll have very tiny hair-thin wires located within the airflow. if one of these tiny strands breaks it can cause driveability issues. pull the sensor and just look through it into a light. a broken strand will indicate a bad sensor for sure. get a used one and swap it in. i have a used MAF i'd sell you for way less than 300 pounds...whatever that is!!!

you're not trying to remove the differential oil dipstick are you? that's threaded on some vehicles. ATF is on drivers side, front diff is on passengers side i believe.

me too!

in an AWD XT6 the auto and manual trans... they are both capable of the same highway gas mileage at cruising speed. in this case the XT6 cruising RPM is reduced at the same speed between auto and manual trans. in the auto you're doing 750 less RPM (roughly) for the same speed at highway cruising speeds. this makes for a much quieter ride as well. the AWD auto and manual transmissions end up having nearly identical highway gas mileage figures. i've read that peak torque is optimum cruising RPM for best gas mileage. i don't know where peak torque is on the XT6 but i do know that the auto and manuals get the same gas mileage and i'm guessing it's due to the different gearing.

brian, according to nasioc it should be a 4.44 in the automatics. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10428

nah, just a joke (i found it funny since nipper and i are often posting together anyway....)

then once you get that down, google guassian surfaces, real fun stuff.....NOT! are these OEM subaru plug wires? if they are aftermarket off the autoparts store shelf then they need to go.

a FSM wiring diagram would be very helpful at this point. you need to find out what fuse, fusible link, or wiring harness is common to all these items. i would bet one glance at the wiring diagram will point to what exact components are common....one fuse, one fusible link, one wiring connector, one ground...and one of those will be the issue.

i sort of covered this earlier. you can do all the work yourself and then have a shop pull the vacuum for you. this is probably your most likely choice. then you charge it (or let them do it if they want to be reasonable). pulling a vaccuum should be very inexpensive, they hook it up to a machine and leave it sit. takes all of a few minutes. they even have computerized machines now that the mechanic hooks up and it automatically finishes the entire job without any work required from a person. it pulls a vaccuum, checks for leaks...stops if it detects any leak, or continues with charging it. all automated, pretty nifty. anyway...shouldn't be expensive at all. or...you can do all the work yourself and just charge it the way it is. i've had friends do it and have yet to see any of those vehicles fail. i don't do it this way nor do i think it's the best method, i'm only telling you what my friends have done against my recommendations and they all still work???? or...you can do the ghetto method of leaving air out of the sytem by charging the system on one side and letting it blow out the other...use an extra can or so but it will blow out some of the air/moisture in the lines, again not the preferred way and others on here will be incensed that i even mentioned it but it was shown to me by a Maryland licensed HVAC mechanic. or you can buy a vaccuum puller and do it yourself. the kind that hook to an air compressor can be had for 9 or 19 dollars from harbor freight. don't know what stand alone electric ones cost.

i recall your other posts from before john, thanks for the follow up. i remember you saying a 98 and 99 would not swap as far as automatics are concerned. but that shouldn't matter for a manual trans swap....unless the block is exceptionally different. thanks again...