idosubaru

thanks a bunch. i'll look at it again, appears i need the entire bumper. but may be able to reuse the original cover. it's not damaged at all, so if it's not distorted it may be good.

i didn't think about larger bolts not breaking, good point....for next time!!! i was wondering if maybe some high-end drill bits would blow through this off the shelf sears craftsman drill bit. i think i might buy a few highstrength bits. any ideas what the strongest drill bits are? cobalt it is? machinist friend for the NIH dropped off a pair of needle nose pliers that are microscopic thin that he made just for extracting very tiny sheared off drill bits. but i doubt i'll get the remnant out....other options will be needed.

great info, thanks. viewed and printed it just fine. my friends definitely have some torn plastic pieces behind the bumper. so if the bumper cover doesn't have any pieces that attach to behind the bumper i guess i need the entire bumper beam and not the cover? the bumper beam has plastic like material on it, not just metal?

water pump bolt sheared off. right angle drill and started drilling the center of it out. drill bit sheared off inside the bolt. can't really see or get to what's left of the drill bit. now what? generic off the shelf sears drill bits. i'll try extracting the drill bit, but i'm thinking i might have to drill around the bolt to get it to come out. i have a spare bad block to experiment on to make sure i don't hit a water jacket or something. many tiny holes all around the bolt until i can wrestle it out.

socket wrench with some hefty whacks from a large hammer will work. hit it hard and fast. it's like a make-shift impact wrench. just did it two days ago. really doesn't take much to get the motor to roll over sitting on the ground, so need to get it to set still/brace it enough to use a breaker bar. they are typically tight and should be...saves your pulley from coming off.

they will fit a stock OBS without clearance issues? picking up a set and not sure if they'll fit my OBS or XT6 without rubbing.

that's awesome you got it running so good Frank! sweet.

there are two different sizes. not sure if one is more common or "stock", but in my experience...mostly with older subaru's though, it could be a 32 or 36 (i think). there could be more than one size. best to take the car, buy the socket, check it outside and if it doesn't fit, return it. or buy the new axle....it should come with a new nut and you can take that into the store with you. or measure it.

gas, just pull the lines and have some towels/old shirt/bucket underneath. not that much gas comes out at all. disconnect the fuel pump wiring harness so it never comes on and tries to push any gas. a/c, just disconnect a line and all the refrigerant blows out, it's that simple. yes it's illegal, but that's the way to do it if you got no other choice. makes a loud freaking noise and starts coming out with some serious force. just loosen and jump away.

1999 Forester L, all black bumper friend was in a minor accident, someone pushed the front corner forward and pulled the bumper apart. do i need to replace the entire bumper or does this thing have a bumper cover? the front is fine, but it looks like plastic tabs and pieces that bolt behind the bumper are ripped off. not sure if this is part of the "cover" or i need the entire bumper? hints on removing it? fairly straight forward? remove bolts underneath and a couple in the engine bay through the frame rail? friend needs the car so i can't play with it for a few days so to speak.

next time the car "gets hot" get out of the car immediately and see if the fans are running. might be the fans not clicking on, that would be more likely than the radiator i would think. is it not still under warranty?

i've seen trans that never really failed...went many many miles with a condition like that. you say "slip" but is it really ever slipping or just a really long delay going into gear? that's two different items. if it's a long delay, it probably won't go away but probably doesn't really matter either. i've seen this a number of times and while annoying it's never caused a failure or gotten significantly worse. if after finally getting in gear it actually slips while shifting and such then i suspect that is a much worse scenario and give your trans a limited life expectancy.

nice job getting it fixed hotdog! i'm surprised the headlight gap is that much. sounds odd. i had a much worse accident in my XT6 and i pulled it out myself with very little gap (and i have NO idea what i'm doing with body work type of stuff). other than a friends honda this was my first attempt. come along is just like a winch, except it's hand powered. very simple. it's like a really heavy duty rathcet...hook it to where you want to pull and start cranking away by hand. very simple. it's best to leave as much bolted up as possible that way as you pull everything else comes with it...comes out just like it went in so to speak. but sounds like you're done with it. maybe you can start another thread about the air bags, i'm really curious about them too. the charge is located in the bag/steering wheel and the sensors that need to be replaced are located where? my OBS needs some air bag work and i have no idea how it works, what to replace or where the computer is, time to start a separate thread hot dog...ready????

all the bolts between the shaft halves and the rear diff are 12 mm bolts. you'll need a good quality wrench for one side (not enough room for a socket) and a socket for the other side. or two wrenches. 2 17mm bolts hold the carrier bearing in place. if i you have a small propane torch you can take along i'd have that handy too. those 12 mm bolts tend to strip very easily as they get seized/rusted and don't want to come off. very annoying. might want to have some axles pin punches and a 17 mm wrench along with 21 mm (or is it 22mm )for the top diff bolt. or just undo the bottom 4 17mm (or 14mm??) bolts that hold the diff to the bushing bracket. this way you can drop the diff if those 12mm bolts are causing troubles. you won't be able to access all 4 bolts around the circumference of the shaft either...usually can get 1, 2 or 3 at once and have to rotate to get the rest. hopefully the donor car is already up so you can just rotate the wheel/hub by hand to turn the shaft. if you won't be able to turn the shaft the job gets really annoying and you might have to drop the entire driveline...rear end included (which isn't that hard...it's only 3 or 6 bolts depending how you want to do it).

RANDOM GUESS: 10mm x 1.25 pitch pitch i am sure of...diameter not so much. often you can pull one that's not quite as necessary from somewhere else and put it where you need it. is it causing any issues?

use Subaru OEM or Magnecor spark plug wires only. others cause problems.

correct, nowhere does anyone or any piece of literature say "every timing belt breaks at exactly 60,001 miles". it is understood this is a recommended interval and belts don't break at 60,001. i have a friend that bought a toyota with 60,000 miles. he's over 200,000 now....and he's never changed the belt. he's out of state so i can't do it for him. let your desire for reliability decide for you. if being without transportation is very bad for you, then best to have it done ahead of time.

need to see what that engine light is on for. have the codes read. autozone, advanced, others will hook up and OBDII scanner and read the codes for free. write down exactly what code and description the computer reads. don't listen to the guy say "oh you probably need a new O2 sensor"....make sure you get the actual code. that's much more reliable than the random guy behind the counter.

how are the battery terminals and connections? they need to be very clean and very tight. are you sure the battery and alternator are good?

could be a number of things, but typically if multiple lights start flashing like that i look first at the battery, alternator and associated connections. battery connections must be tight. any corrossion on the terminals is a sign the batter may have a small leak and needs replaced. corroded terminals or the ability to grab them with your hand and turn them while on the battery post means they are not tight enough and may need replacing (after awhile they just loose their ability to crimp on the post properly). i've probably replaced half of the batter connectors on cars over 15 years old. you're not there yet, but at 10 it isn't unreasonable. the connections at the alternator should be checked too. places like autozone and advance have a car with testing equipment they can wheel to your vehicle and test the battery and charging system for free.

are the wires Subaru OEM wires or parst store wires? i bet they are parts store wires and that could be the issue as well. these motors need Subaru OEM or Magnecor wires ONLY. third time this week....sorry guys.....

i agree with nipper except that my guess for the burning rubber smell is either the oil just dripping on the exhaust. or it could be a broken CV boot that's splattering grease on the hot exhaust. look under the car or even with just the hood popped you'll see a rubber boot where the axle shaft connects to the transmission (one on each side). these boots are maintenance items on foreign cars (amercan cars don't last long enough....sorry, ha ha). the boot is not an immediate concern so i wouldn't worry about it...except the smell is annoying. need to find where the oil leak is coming from. valve cover gaskets are cheap and easy to fix. not really familiar with these newer models but i think it may have a cam cap and seal on the back of the engine as well...this needs to be looked at. after that there are a couple seals under the timing belts - crank, cam and oil pump. these should all be replaced at the next timing belt change. look under the car if you feel so inclined - oil in the center up front would be either oil pump or crank seal. oil up front and to either side would be cam seal. oil at the back of the motor would be valve covers (close to the outside) or cam caps (if it has them on the rear). or rear main seal (centered at the back of the motor but HIGHLY unlikely). if you can look under the car and tell where the oil is coming from let us know, that would be a big help. or post a couple pictures from underneath and we can narrow it down. start looking at the FRONT first...because as your driving dripping oil blows back and gets all over other things. if it's clean up front then the leak is in the back. if it's oily up front then it'll be semi-oily further back from blow-back.

sean, use a come-a-long to pull with rather than a truck. they can be had for 10 bucks from harbor freight or the local tractor/farm supply store. i use them to pull cars up on my trailer and to pull out bumpers and body panels in situations exactly like yours. a come-a-long and some thick straps work perfect.

OEM Subaru spark plug wires or from the autoparts store? if it's not Subaru OEM then they need to be replaced again with Subaru or Magnecor wires only, these engines are not forgiving for cheap or low quality wires. if they are Subaru wires then check to be sure the wire is seated tight and properly on the plug and coil pack. while you're doing that, make sure the wire isn't damaged in anyway. in the end you can try to swap two spark plug wires and see if the cylinder misfire code moves with the wire. if you swap wires and then it gives you a "cyilnder 2 misfire" then you know the wire is bad for sure.

a 1995 2.2 will have a 60,000 mile replacement interval. 120,000 miles is when it should be changed the SECOND time. every 60,000...so 60,000 then 120,000 then 180,000. there's nowhere that says the interval is 120,000 between belt replacements. there is no Subaru with a 120,000 mile timing belt change interval.