idosubaru

nice job getting it fixed hotdog! i'm surprised the headlight gap is that much. sounds odd. i had a much worse accident in my XT6 and i pulled it out myself with very little gap (and i have NO idea what i'm doing with body work type of stuff). other than a friends honda this was my first attempt. come along is just like a winch, except it's hand powered. very simple. it's like a really heavy duty rathcet...hook it to where you want to pull and start cranking away by hand. very simple. it's best to leave as much bolted up as possible that way as you pull everything else comes with it...comes out just like it went in so to speak. but sounds like you're done with it. maybe you can start another thread about the air bags, i'm really curious about them too. the charge is located in the bag/steering wheel and the sensors that need to be replaced are located where? my OBS needs some air bag work and i have no idea how it works, what to replace or where the computer is, time to start a separate thread hot dog...ready????

all the bolts between the shaft halves and the rear diff are 12 mm bolts. you'll need a good quality wrench for one side (not enough room for a socket) and a socket for the other side. or two wrenches. 2 17mm bolts hold the carrier bearing in place. if i you have a small propane torch you can take along i'd have that handy too. those 12 mm bolts tend to strip very easily as they get seized/rusted and don't want to come off. very annoying. might want to have some axles pin punches and a 17 mm wrench along with 21 mm (or is it 22mm )for the top diff bolt. or just undo the bottom 4 17mm (or 14mm??) bolts that hold the diff to the bushing bracket. this way you can drop the diff if those 12mm bolts are causing troubles. you won't be able to access all 4 bolts around the circumference of the shaft either...usually can get 1, 2 or 3 at once and have to rotate to get the rest. hopefully the donor car is already up so you can just rotate the wheel/hub by hand to turn the shaft. if you won't be able to turn the shaft the job gets really annoying and you might have to drop the entire driveline...rear end included (which isn't that hard...it's only 3 or 6 bolts depending how you want to do it).

RANDOM GUESS: 10mm x 1.25 pitch pitch i am sure of...diameter not so much. often you can pull one that's not quite as necessary from somewhere else and put it where you need it. is it causing any issues?

use Subaru OEM or Magnecor spark plug wires only. others cause problems.

correct, nowhere does anyone or any piece of literature say "every timing belt breaks at exactly 60,001 miles". it is understood this is a recommended interval and belts don't break at 60,001. i have a friend that bought a toyota with 60,000 miles. he's over 200,000 now....and he's never changed the belt. he's out of state so i can't do it for him. let your desire for reliability decide for you. if being without transportation is very bad for you, then best to have it done ahead of time.

need to see what that engine light is on for. have the codes read. autozone, advanced, others will hook up and OBDII scanner and read the codes for free. write down exactly what code and description the computer reads. don't listen to the guy say "oh you probably need a new O2 sensor"....make sure you get the actual code. that's much more reliable than the random guy behind the counter.

how are the battery terminals and connections? they need to be very clean and very tight. are you sure the battery and alternator are good?

could be a number of things, but typically if multiple lights start flashing like that i look first at the battery, alternator and associated connections. battery connections must be tight. any corrossion on the terminals is a sign the batter may have a small leak and needs replaced. corroded terminals or the ability to grab them with your hand and turn them while on the battery post means they are not tight enough and may need replacing (after awhile they just loose their ability to crimp on the post properly). i've probably replaced half of the batter connectors on cars over 15 years old. you're not there yet, but at 10 it isn't unreasonable. the connections at the alternator should be checked too. places like autozone and advance have a car with testing equipment they can wheel to your vehicle and test the battery and charging system for free.

are the wires Subaru OEM wires or parst store wires? i bet they are parts store wires and that could be the issue as well. these motors need Subaru OEM or Magnecor wires ONLY. third time this week....sorry guys.....

i agree with nipper except that my guess for the burning rubber smell is either the oil just dripping on the exhaust. or it could be a broken CV boot that's splattering grease on the hot exhaust. look under the car or even with just the hood popped you'll see a rubber boot where the axle shaft connects to the transmission (one on each side). these boots are maintenance items on foreign cars (amercan cars don't last long enough....sorry, ha ha). the boot is not an immediate concern so i wouldn't worry about it...except the smell is annoying. need to find where the oil leak is coming from. valve cover gaskets are cheap and easy to fix. not really familiar with these newer models but i think it may have a cam cap and seal on the back of the engine as well...this needs to be looked at. after that there are a couple seals under the timing belts - crank, cam and oil pump. these should all be replaced at the next timing belt change. look under the car if you feel so inclined - oil in the center up front would be either oil pump or crank seal. oil up front and to either side would be cam seal. oil at the back of the motor would be valve covers (close to the outside) or cam caps (if it has them on the rear). or rear main seal (centered at the back of the motor but HIGHLY unlikely). if you can look under the car and tell where the oil is coming from let us know, that would be a big help. or post a couple pictures from underneath and we can narrow it down. start looking at the FRONT first...because as your driving dripping oil blows back and gets all over other things. if it's clean up front then the leak is in the back. if it's oily up front then it'll be semi-oily further back from blow-back.

sean, use a come-a-long to pull with rather than a truck. they can be had for 10 bucks from harbor freight or the local tractor/farm supply store. i use them to pull cars up on my trailer and to pull out bumpers and body panels in situations exactly like yours. a come-a-long and some thick straps work perfect.

OEM Subaru spark plug wires or from the autoparts store? if it's not Subaru OEM then they need to be replaced again with Subaru or Magnecor wires only, these engines are not forgiving for cheap or low quality wires. if they are Subaru wires then check to be sure the wire is seated tight and properly on the plug and coil pack. while you're doing that, make sure the wire isn't damaged in anyway. in the end you can try to swap two spark plug wires and see if the cylinder misfire code moves with the wire. if you swap wires and then it gives you a "cyilnder 2 misfire" then you know the wire is bad for sure.

a 1995 2.2 will have a 60,000 mile replacement interval. 120,000 miles is when it should be changed the SECOND time. every 60,000...so 60,000 then 120,000 then 180,000. there's nowhere that says the interval is 120,000 between belt replacements. there is no Subaru with a 120,000 mile timing belt change interval.

you mean XT6...completely different animal between XT and XT6. the XT radiators can be had for under a $100 on the internet or at stores for just over $100. the XT6 radiator is Subaru OEM only. don't bother trying to find one, no aftermarket radiator manufacturer ever made one for the XT6. if you try to look you will find place that say they can get them, but they are wrong, they will always be XT radiators...eventhough their computers say XT6. your options are Subaru New OEM - $400 - $600 at the dealer. you can get them from some on-line Subaru dealers for around $300. used ones can be found for $50 - $100 but that's not a good solution as they are typically 20 years old almost. overheating is bad, don't cut corners like this. you can attempt to retrofit the much cheaper XT radiator. get an XT radiator hose to help install. i haven't done it but know others that have. Cut about 2 inches of XT radiator hose (it is smaller than the XT6) and install that on the radiator outlet pipe. then install the XT6 hose over top. do this for the inlet pipe too. then you'll have to play with fitment i believe as well, the bottom brackets won't line up with the holes in the XT6 radiator support, but with some creativity it can be made to work. same goes with the fans, i don't think the mounting holes of the XT6 fans will line up, but that can be remedied fairly easily as well.

$500, that's insane alright. get a used one (or two).

you could drill out the intake manifold hole to accept something larger. can you post a picture of the fubar'ed hole? it probably is fixable but easier to see and suggest a specific plan of attack than just guess. i would use gasket maker with the JB weld fix, i'm not a fan of JB weld. seen it crumbled apart too many times....at like 10,000 or 20,000 miles after using it. that's not reliable enough for me.

good call sweden, crank and cam sensors are good for doing that as well...forgot about those. but i think "cylinder misfire" codes are normally ignition wire related.

some of that tacky sealant they use on water pumps may help if the fix is questionable or the two bolt method is used. if others have done the two bolt method and you don't want to try other options i'd use some of that tacky gasket prep stuff and try that. it's an easy enough job an shouldnt' leave you stranded that it may be worth a try since others have gotten it to work. and be sure both surfaces are spotless.

cool, same as legacy. i figured it was there or in the dash somewhere. thanks!

part number for the brushes: 31266GA340 and they are still available. never heard of anyone buying the o-ring/seal kit. i'd match some up or measure. generic brushes can be found too, any automotive electrical shop can have a look at the old ones and the end cap of the pump (that houses the brushes) and get you a set for a couple dollars.

where is it? 1997 2.2 liter impreza outback sport.

if it needs anything...be sure to price out SVX parts before making a decisions. windshields....$700.......some throttle/idle controller runs $200 and is nearly impossible to find used.....parts are very expensive and hard to find.

it's not that hard to do, happens regularly. mods can cut and paste to the proper thread if they find it and have the time.

i think the issue isn't what you're saying but posting to the wrong thread accidentally. check my link above, the one before your last reply, is that the thread you're trying to follow along with? torque peak and gas mileage has nothing to do with Sean's girlfriend wrecking her car (this thread...)

i think he meant to post that in another thread, this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60673