idosubaru

that is awesome! interesting, i didn't think about that. the car is already "front high", i'm wondering if i just unbolt the trans if it will slide down under the car? i doubt i'll go through the trouble of pulling the entire engine/trans since i have another 4EAT, but i'd like to keep it since i know it was perfect. unbolt everything and use a come along to yank it out and support underneath?

another way is to drill a tiny hole in the face of the seal and use a self tapping sheet metal screw. screw the screw into the hole and use a hammer or pliars to pull. don't get anything near the machined sealing surfaces. don't want to scratch those.

yes i've had it done before. i've used rcengineering. much more expensive than the guys you used, but someone at XT6.net used them and felt service was good as well. the older injectors, approaching 20 years and 200,000 miles are well served by getting cleaned/rebuilt. pre and post testing can show dramatic differences.

$1,000 - $1,500 to have someone replace the headgaskets. add additional costs if including a new clutch at the same time. years with known issue are supposed to be 1996 - 2002 with 96-99 and 99-01 having different symptoms/failure modes. i avoid 2.5's but that's just me. there's *another* one for sale locally with a bad headgasket. i've yet to see any 2.2's for sale locally with bad headgaskets ever, but a little better than one 2.5 ever two months...and that's from the honest people, what about the ones that aren't telling you? the problem is very tricky to isolate when it first starts occuring, very few and random, intermittent problems (overheating). it's not a standard and easy to diagnose issue. there is not one test that absolutley confirms the headgaskets are fine.

i have a good auto trans that's attached to a seized engine (still in the car) socket and long freaking pipe - engine will not turn over at all so i can't remove the flexplate bolts. only thing i can think of is cutting the bellhousing and that's not worth the time.

can you rent the truck and tow the car? or are you trying to do this on the cheap? if you do tow with your automatic subaru, definitely install an aftermarket transmission cooler. also - if you're pulling a hill and the transmission is searching for a gear (downshifting, upshifting, downshifting) because of the incline, go ahead and manually put it in the lower gear (3rd) just for pulling the hill. when you get to the top, switch it back into Drive. just avoid the searching and constant shifting of the trans. one time is not a big deal, avoid traffic, drive slow and be very careful. ideally don't plan on doing it in one day. best to be alert and take it seriously, not being pressed for time. your car can definitely handle it, it is far more risky than not towing though. this is a question of statistics. you are much more likely to wreck the vehicle while towing, and even more so while towing such a large weight. but it can surely be done without harm to the vehicle. if you plan on doing this more than once, get the vehicle wired for electric brakes and tow trailers that are equipped with them. you can get away once without them, be overly cautious though. other people do not drive any different because you're towing something. you have to drive differently.

i'm not too optimistic. the horrible timing of it all will make for building some excellent character! i doubt it's the CV, i can't imagine that much force/binding and noise without the CV joint just blowing to pieces.

if it still fails the stupid safety inspections then i'd remove the fog lamps entirely, have it inspected and reinstall them afterwards.

hey thanks derrick. that's good to know that it can do that and it's not always an indication of a bad trans. it's a parking pawl. i only know that cause john on xt6.net mentioned it like 10 years ago on the old board and i had no idea what it was back then. i'm hopeful that 3 year old rusted cv that's been sitting for who knows how long is bad. probably not...but maybe i'll get lucky?

1991 XT6, AWD Auto. car drives fine straight, no noises at all. when i turn the wheel it grinds to a halt and if i try to go anywhere makes terrible grinding noises and barely goes with lots of shuddering and noises. at first it seemed like either way, now it only seems when i turn right. it's much more than binding since it just won't go and makes noises/shudders, it's not that the tires need to slip, it just won't go without a fight. bad front diff? could this have something to do with it: when i was swapping out wheels i jacked up the drivers side of the vehicle. as both wheels came off the ground (passengers side both still on the ground), the car rolled forward and the jack toppled over. i thought that was strange since it was in park? how could it roll forward if the gear selector was in park? didn't think anything of it and pulled the e-brake. i had left the e-brake off because i was installing new pads while i had the wheels off. after getting it back on the ground i had the problem immediately (but no problems at all before), so it seems like they are more than likely related. i'm wondering if the diff is bad or something with the parking? i had the drivers side suspension all apart last week as well, replaced the cv axle on the drivers side with a used one off my parts car. could the axle itself break internally and cause binding?

if the years are the same i'd bet you'd have dave's experience and it'll work fine even without swapping the TCU (but you can give him that too and that may work better). the farther apart the trans are in years and the closer you get to any changes in wiring, then you might have issues. i don't know when those changes took place though. i believe 1998 or 99 was a big change (screw on filter type 4EAT). and then the late 80's/early 90's 4EAT differs from the ones installed in the EJ series as well, but i don't know by how much.

copy that. i like the screwdriver best...i'm thining large chisel/digging bar/crow bar. probably better to put the tension on the sprocket than them dinky 6mm bolts. i've used old timing belts before as well, wrap them around the sprocket and hold on tight. the new gen guys use vice-straps as well.

yep mismatched front and rear final drive ratios.

(10mm) i use one of the bolts to hold it in place while i loosen the others. when you get to the last one you'll have to hold one that yo'uve already loosened and it'll tighten as you loosen the last one. but it'll tighten less than it was before...keep going until you can break the last one without holding any of the other bolts. on newer EJ engines the cam shaft itself has a notch on it that is perfect for fitting a wrench onto and holding it in place while knocking the cam bolt off (one bolt on the newer motors). never looked to see if the EA series has those but might be worth a look.

like he said it's more likely that something sounded like piston slap and doing the work you did corrected it. COOL!!!!!! WILL YOU WORK ON MY CAR!!!!

you'll like this one nipper.....WHAT CAR!!!! yours is a later year 2.5 whatever it is i think, but i have a 1998 impreza. if it's not too hard i can pull it for you. but i'm moving like this weekend and the car is getting scrapped so i don't know if i'll have time.

spray and torch, i like that idea! actually i like the idea of pounding the end of the control arm inwards. at this point i have the hub removed so i really don't need to remove it, but it's stuck so bad i wouldn't mind freeing it up and anti-seizing it right now. that bolt is likely toasted on the end, i'll have to hit it with a die i'm sure before it's usable again. i hope it is, cause if it's not and it doesn't come out i'm really hosed. i'll be welding the nut back on!

actually i might even be able to cut the wires out of the dash...can't recall how it plugs in but i could snag the plugs for you.

anthony, i'll donate an XT6 dash cluster to you if that helps you at all. doubt it fits but an XT is EA82 and an XT and XT6 cluster will swap....so maybe?

the strut, hub and sway bars and rear trailing arm thingy are all disconnected. it's just hanging there. no way to get anything under the head and pry, i WAILED on the end of it and it didn't come out a nanometer. it doesn't move at all.

yep do a search for subaru online dealers, i don't know them off the top of my head. but they've been posted and talked about numerous times on here, should come right up.

hoses are brand new and radiator is brand new as well. radiator came off my previous daily driver which had no issues at all. water pump, thermostat are all new. from searching it looks like radiator cap or coolant return hose are most likely culprits of this.

Removed the nut from the bolt that holds the control arm to the frame of an XT6. On every other one i've ever worked on you tap the bolt and it slides out because the control arm isn't threaded. I pounded this one with a rather large hammer and it does not come out. doesn't move, doesn't turn, nothing. Someone welded this thing or what? not much rust issue on this vehicle either.

i did that too with an 8 foot digging bar and standing/jumping on the end of it. nothing. i did not remove the pinch bolt all the way, someone just mentioned that the pinch bolt needs to be all the way removed as the threads actually catch part of the ball joints.

1991 XT6. Tried replacing my ball joint last night. Got it out of the control arm but it refuses to come out of the hub. pinch bolt is loosened, chiseled it all the way open. sprayed liberally with Liquid Wrench. wailed on the ball joint with a chisel many dozens of times. any ideas? i also have another hub that has new bearings in it, i should install that one but it has an axle nut that won't come off (and the axle is bad). grrrr....