idosubaru

sweet. freaking inspections.

you won't have any problem waiting. i know people have driven with mad ticking for a long time.

depends what you want to replace. if you want to replace the belt, buy a belt. if you want to replace the belt and pulleys, buy the belt and pulleys. it's annoying waiting until you get in there to decide what to replace. because then you have to say "okay i need this one part" and have to go get it. if you don't want to replace them all (in which case you'd buy them all ahead of time), then the easiest thing to do may be to buy them all from subaru locally, and return the ones you don't need. that way you have everything you need and can finish the job all at once.

*** EDIT *** this is likely locally or state dependent, check with your local auto parts stores and recycling places and ask what they do and do not accept. in my area of Maryland Advanced Auto Parts takes anything but brake fluid, all mixed together even. doesn't have to be separated. Advanced Auto Parts (and other auto parts stores) have large tanks and recycle used oil for free. Autozone may do the same as well since Advanced Auto parts isn't out west i don't think. They accept anything except brake fluid. mix it, match it, oil, gear oil, ATF, coolant, water, any fluids except brake fluid. something about brake fluid isn't acceptable. i make sure to oblige since it's very convenient to dump everything else in the same tank. i have no idea what to do with my brake fluid.

manual transmissions are very durable and easy to come by. best bet is to install a used one. you can get 5 used ones for the price of a rebuilt probably. rebuilding the front diff is tricky business so i wouldn't expect it to be very cheap. it is very rare to see the issues you're having right now.

i would use Subaru OEM parts for the timing belt and water pump. in my oppinion it's not worth saving a few dollars on an inteference engine. you will be expecting another 100,000 miles service from these items, i'd stick with Subaru on these items. your engine is inteference, if the timing belt breaks or the water pump fails (which can cause the timing belts to fail) you can sustain major internal engine damage (pistons will hit valves). i use anything on non-interference engines but stay with Subaru on the interference motors. for aftermarket you can typically find cheap timing sets on ebay. might even see some Subaru OEM sets. for a manual trans a drain and refill should treat you just fine. for an auto transmission you'll need a flush or to do multiple changes (i like to do at least 3 on mine. do one...drive it a couple days, do another, drive it, do another...then you've replaced a majority of the fluid).

additives or chaning oil types/brands/viscosity is not a one size fits all solution. it works sometimes, but not always and usually covers up a problem that will come back. the most common problem i've seen out of the dozens i've pulled apart is the oil pump-to-engine-block gasket. there are two ports, hence the "mickey mouse" nickname you'll see. you can check out the gasket at http://www.thepartsbin.com, they have a picture. one of the two ears or o-rings that is part of this gasket will get sucked into the oil passage. at first it may only slightly deform at certain times/temperatures but eventually it will permanently deform and can rip as well. this will add air bubbles into the system since that seal will no longer be there. air is compressible and oil is not. hydraulic systems don't work well with air introduced and the HYDRAULIC valve lash adjusters will not operate properly, they will partially collapse due to the air in the oil. additives and gimmicks can temporarily solve this sometimes, but usually an oil pump reseal should be scheduled sometime in the future unless you like the noise! a new oil pump isn't a bad idea as well. some over at xt6.net have problems even after a reseal, but i suspect that the thin aluminum housing of the oil pump may deform with time, heat, etc. this prevents the gasket from having equal pressure all around it like it should and causing the issues to resurface again sometime later. this is all speculation though, i recently thought about this after some have complained of repeated failure at these ports even with new gaskets. i haven't mic'ed an oil pump though i'd like to if i ever incur this problem myself. actually my oil pump is new. if you replaced a water pump you can reseal the oil pump. i think resealing the oil pump is about the same as a water pump. remove timing belts and there it is. remove 5 bolts. use a 1" socket on the impeller so you can bust the 12mm nut loose off the oil pump sprocket to replace the seal. replace the gasket and o-ring and reinstall.

On the timing belt change: New timing belts, cam seals and water pump and thermostat. Change the oil pump seals/gasket/crank seal. Tighten the screws on the back of the oil pump (that was an issue of them becoming loose on some EJ series motors, easy to check). Check all the pulleys and tensioners. Some people just go ahead and replace the tensioners. on an interference engine it's not a bad idea to replace anything you can afford to. You won't be in there for another 100,000 miles, you're relying on those pulley bearing to make it to nearly 200,000 miles. At the very least inspect them all closely and replace any that have any noise or don't feel tight. Typically the lower one that has sprockets instead of a smooth surface tends to get noisey first in the ones i've pulled (and i've read the same thing on here). i've replaced those on most of the ones i've done, particularly on the later interference engines which yours is. everything above is related to the timing belts and should be done at the same time. other items to consider are radiator hoses and clamps (particularly the lower one which may have a rusted clamp). then the drive belts for the alt and a/c stuff since it's got to come off anyway for the timing belt replacement. change your transmission oil and go from there.

i'm with phil. he needs to define "easy", "turbo", and what kind of reliability he wants, and what kind of money he wants to put into this. otherwise we really don't know what he's asking for. i've made the mistake of assuming he's like the rest. most people that ask about turbo on the XT6 never do it, so i figured i'd save him the effort of searching. actually i can't think of anyone that has randomly piped up and gone through with it. if you're going to spend close to the kind of money that you can buy a complete EJ turbo swap for then staying with the ER27 looses you horsepower but you keep the coolness and uniqueness factors. can you turbo it? of course. i can turbo my lawn mower and go-ped. is it easy? ME: "yes". MY MOM: "no." are there bolt on parts for it: no.

your loyale will have the EA82 in it. an excellent motor. not many issues to speak of really. the EA82 motor will run for a very very long time assuming you don't overheat it or run it out of oil. overheating is the common destroyer of this engine, the block, heads and 20 year old gaskets won't hold up long to running hot. usually the head gaskets blow to overheating because the cooling systems are old or poorly maintained. change your oil all the time. very regular. this engine has HLA's (Hydraulic Valve Lash Adjusters) in it. the good is that the valves never need adjusted like an old honda. but the bad is that if you don't change your oil often the HLA's get dirty and noisey. change it often and they will be nice to you. adding some MMO will help keep them happy too if you suspect dirty innards of your engine. since overheating will cause bad problems very quickly, the best bet is to replace the water pump, thermostat, radiator caps, radiator hoses, check the overflow hose and clamps and make sure the radiator is in pristine condition. that sounds like a long list but it's all really easy with the exception of the water pump. water pump requires removing the timing belts which is really easy on an EA82 as far as timing belts go but isn't nearly as easy as the rest of the list which anyone could do. while you're at the water pump, resealing the oil pump is a good idea as the gasket will fail at some point and cause loud ticking noises of the engine as air gets introduced into the oil supply. it will sound real bad but won't cause any damage. since oil pump and water pump maintenance both require removing the timing belts, it's usually a good idea to do them all at once. it is relatively easy, doesn't take long and the parts are inexpensive. given a good cooling system and assuming you don't run it without oil that motor is good for a very long time. non-interference motor as well, so if the timing belts did break there's no possible damage, just throw on new ones and you're golden.

rain X is awesome. when my transmissions were bad the wiper would slam against the windshield edges as well. WHAM WHAM WHAM every swipe it took. it went away when i repaired the transmissions. greased or replaced the bad parts. i worked on 3 different ones this summer so i can't recall exact details between them.

small would be fine for your circumstances. benebob, which vehicle has the ATF temp sensor installed? what kind of reading do you get? does it vary much...season, ambient T's, hills, highway? there's a post on USMB somewhere of a guy that used one of those laser temperature devices to see the temps before and after installing the cooler. made for interesting reading.

FWD fuse trick will only work if yours is AWD...i didn't see if you said it was AWD or FWD? what kind of CV work did they do? replace a boot, replace the entire axle, replace both axles? these can create noise so we need to know exactly what was done. it does not sound like wheel bearings. the description you're giving of the gas and neutral sounds to me like it's a differential issue. rear differential is much more likely than the front but if you're sure it's up front then that could be it. best to rule out simple stuff before assuming the trans is hosed though. the front diff is essentially one assembly with the transmission, so to replace the front diff is to replace the transmission. off the top of my head i'd first check the front differential fluid level. then after that i'd drain the front differential and see if any chunks come out with the fluid. if the gears have been damaged there will most likely be some pieces of metal in the front diff fluid.

i'm not sure i understand your problem. but then again i wouldn't know how to fix it either. i'm not well versed on these things. although i have removed and replaced a few, but haven't had any problems to make me learn exactly how they work. all of mine park and operate fine. could you install a complete different assembly from another vehicle? everything from the motor to the arm and everything in between? i've swapped a few and other than getting them off never had any problem getting them to work.

definitely annoying, but hang in there this likely isn't as bad as you may think. first you want to make sure it's not something much easier to deal with than the transmission. describe this sound, where does it sound like it's coming from? if you put the car in neutral and drift will it still make the noise? do all of your tires match in size and tread? (this only matters if it's an AWD). so....is it AWD or FWD? if you put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder in the engine bay does the issue go away? this points to the common torque bind issue. any recent work done to the car? do you do any towing or hard driving? it could also be a wheel bearing, brakes or axle. these are much easier to fix. does it sound like it's coming from one side? can you feel it in the steering wheel or the seat/car? even if you needed another transmission that's not the end of the world either. you can find a transmission for $250 or less (i have one i'd sell for instance) and have it installed for $200 or less (local transmission shop here charges $150 to install a transmission you supply). that's only $450, which isn't that bad for your vehicle. that 2.2 motor in your car will last forever if you don't overheat it or run it out of oil. those are excellent motors, so stay positive, you'll get through this and in 10 years you could still be driving this thing! answer the questions above and we can help you a little more.

yes, fluid should definitely come out in large amounts. sounds like the oil pump or TC is bad. rather than tear into the trans often it's easier to just find a used transmission for cheap. who knows what went wrong or if any little tidbits went through and damaged the trans even further. used transmissions can be had cheap, might be worth having a look. you can get transmission for under $100 sometimes. the pull it yourself yards have them for $50 some places and even have sales lower than that. worth a look at least. i have a couple transmissions i'd let go for $100 that i know are good. find someone like me with the trans you need and you're golden.

it has fluid in it right? does the transmission pump fluid when it's in neutral? i'm wondering if your shift linkage is busted or something wrong with it? in other words you're putting it in neutral sitting in the car, but it's not actually changing it at the transmission. look under and make sure it's actually moving the gear selector at the trans. check it all and make sure it's all golden and looks normal. after that i'd be suspecting something with the TC or oil pump unfortunately but a trans expert i am not.

this might not mean anything, but the FSM's for the XT6 are not even close to being right. no TPS will adjust by the Subaru Factory books, so it wouldn't surprise me if other TPS specifications were correct. best to adjust them by ear. turn it until the car starts bogging down and sounding like it's going to stall, then bump it just a hair back. that's where it needs to be. sounds rediculous but best way to adjust them and makes sense once you see how they work and how to do it. there's a great write up about how to pull one apart and clean them up to smooth out some issues as they age. i think it's at http://www.xt6.net but maybe it was on here. xt6.net is really slow lately, that issue is being worked. have fun,

troubleshooting a 2006 is best done under warranty. if you're not getting the service you need then go up the ladder/chain of command. the squeaky wheel gets the oil they say.

check out the TOD or tick of death. use the search function and you'll get tons of information. it is not the guide seals or whatever he said. no it is not cause for alarm and it won't cause damage. change your oil all the time. the HLA's are great because the valves never need adjusting but the down side is you need to change your oil all the time or they get dirty and stick. when was the last oil change? do you change it often? how many miles? more than likely your tick is due to an oil pump gasket. reseal the oil pump or buy a new one and you're golden.

the XT6 engine (ER27) was never offered as a turbo. it is all custom if you want to turbo that car. there is no easy way to do it. you'll have to decide many things on your own since it's custom. stock fuel or stand alone? that's a big money item there. the stock fuel system sucks so if yo'ure looking for real power then after market is the way. you can add an extra injector of course as band-aid to the issue and make sure you're not running lean. you want turbo pistons? the good news is that EA82T (4 cylinder turbo pistons) drop right in the XT6 since the XT6 engine is just an EA82 with two extra cylinders. bad news is that's a complete tear down and rebuild of the block basically. well you can swap pistons without tearing it all down but that's another topic already covered. exhaust, intake is all custom work. will all depend how much money and effort you want and also largely depends on what kind of horsepower you're trying to achieve. which brings up another point....the ER27 isn't really a good candidate for a turbo. the better option is to just convert it to an EJ Turbo of some sort. better reliability, all sorts of after market support, higher output capability and would end up being the same cost probably. unless you're planning on a very inexpensive turbo build of the XT6 but that would probably not be very reliable unless you just wanted very low boost. xt6.net is really slow right now, but all of this has been covered. hopefully that slowness issue gets resolved soon.

throttle body sticking open maybe? then loosening as it warms? i doubt it, but i've seen sticking TB cause high idle before. should be able to tell, when it does it just check the TB by hand and make sure it's closed all the way. some (many) vehicles by design will rev high on a cold engine. once the engine reaches operating temperature the idle smooths out to nominal rpm. the engine is designed for and most efficient at a prescribed temperature so that's why they do that. that yours if variable could be an issue with the idle control valve...not sure how the EJ22 does that though as i have never had to deal with that yet. if there's a valve involved (IAC - idle air control valve) then typically just cleaning it out will alleviate the issues. they get black soot in them and they tend to stick open or not operate smoothly.

87 GL so this is an EA81 not an EA82 right? how old is the thermostat, it could be plugged. are the fans blowing the right way? any leaks or coolant loss? is the coolant full? i'd guess the radiator is plugged then the water pump. most older subaru's have bad radiators. not many that i see have what i'd call reliable and decent radiators. look for greeen corrossion.

true and the air tools help a ton. you spend much less time working a bolt with air tools. add up all the head bolts and cam bolts and that's alot...even more on the XT6. and if you're cleaning the holes properly...you can spend alot of time huncing over for sure. air tools make the biggest difference. but i can see where all that hunching over could be painful. i had to drill a bolt out of an engine not too long ago, that was not fun and i felt it in the lower back after all that time working that thing. welding, turning, drilling, extracting....blah blah blah...

head gasket set will include new valve stem seals which is all you need for a head job (not including the tools/supplies for doing a valve job). i have a shop do all my heads and they test the springs and have yet to find any out of specification...even on 150,000+ mile motors. i think new springs and valves are rarely needed.