idosubaru

never done it but looked into it before and was told this retainer is critical to be set properly. read up and research a bit before getting to deep into this one. there aren't many parts in the way and it can be done in the car, but be sure it's done absolutely correctly. i believe i was told the front diff is affected by how it's set (forget all the technical reasons/terms). someone with an FSM should be able to help.

thermostat yes. thermoswitch and coolant temp sensors rarely fail. the connectors get corroded and cause issues, but the sensors very rarely fail. i'd leave them. on some models i believe there is a very small hose under the alternator (at least on the XT6), it's about center of the top of the motor. replace the hose and clamps on this one. have to make the hose longer than stock if you don't use a pre-bent hose for this one. there is also a hose at the throttle body, i completely removed it so as not to heat up the air intake. less hoses and clamps as well. route the hose wherever it goes, i forget. depends what intake you have where or if you have this one. not terribly hard to swing the a/c compressor out of the way for easier access to the hose under there if you like. unbolt it and wedge some 2x's underneath to hold it out of the way. it has enough play to move around a bit.

water probably got somewhere it shouldn't. fluid level is fine? transmission pan isn't dented? i think the rear speed sensor is semi-exposed on the rear of the transmission, at least the wiring harness to it i think is exposed on top of the rear extension housing at the very back of the trans. i'd make sure this connector isn't shorted out or wet. never had any work done to the transmission? is it AWD - if so, do all the tires match fairly close? the TCU will shift erratically if the tires are mismatched enough. i doubt this is your problem though since it started after driving through some standing water. does the POWER light blink 16 times or so when you first start the car? if so, i'd have the codes read and post exactly what comes up. the FSM will give a break down of what route to take for diagnosis.

yes the TPS can be cleaned and repaired with excellent results. we have a complete write-up with pictures at http://www.xt6.net of the process. here's a direct link: http://www.xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5525&highlight=tps

desperate for all the intake hose parts. i've posted over and over and have nothing to show for it. it's very easy to get off. the large intake hose that goes from the box that houses the air filter all the way to the intake manifold. i need all the hoses that connect TO this large hose (i already have the hose), there are like 3 hoses underneath it that go to the valve covers and PCV valve. any and all hoses/fittings/etc that connect to that hose i need. they are all relatively small and easy to remove. look at the large hoses - i will take everything that goes between this hose and the engine, all the hoses and plastic connectors you can get that are between this intake hose and the engine. this would be awesome, email/PM or whatever if you can pull them. thanks, Gary

i would find it very odd for both to go at the exact same time unless the car was severly overheated. if one blows the other is likely compromised and not far behind. this is probably everyone that has head gaskets blow. but if it is severly overheated or continually driven, the other will let go as well. but for the most part you'll find that one side will be the culprit first.

somes states have wavers or extensions you can apply for. tell them your situation and they may give you another month or 3..... if you don't know already, call and find out if this is an option in your state.

my advice was a bit limiting. rear diff is one of a few options. would want to inspect fluid level of it as well. you could try rotating the tires to the front if for some reason you wanted to do this yourself. if the noise/vibrations then "moved" up front so to speak you would know it's tire related.

the rear differential has a bad tooth on one of the gears. take it to the dealer. if you want to investigate yourself, drain the rear differential fluid and see what goodies come out with it! i'd guess a rear differential replacement is needed.

question asked question answered he offered some excellent information and this same question will come up next week and who will be there to answer it again...GD....but who wants to do that all the time? at least he pipes up and helps out, lots of others may know but don't care to help or read. two sides to the story, he meant no harm but did take the time to read and gave some great info! most others didn't read it, didn't even attempt to help anyone out. now you're informed and can go for it on your ride. good luck with it.

i don't know what the number was but i have the not-for-street-use delta cams in one of my XT6. being the same pistons, valve trains, rods and all as the EA82, it may be similar to the EA82T. mine is a daily driver, i'm not a performance guy but i tried them for kicks. no vaccuum, braking sucked (due to the vaccuum loss), downshifted more going up hills (loss of low end), and the power was higher than i needed it to be. i ported the intake side of the heads and matched the gaskets through the intake manifold and head as well. loss of low end. i had a high flow converter and larger exhaust. i won't try that again, but like i said it's a commuter/functional car for me. you guys might have better luck and more fun with it.

by the way, i'll be out the next couple days starting later this afternoon and will have no or limited internet access. but i'm still interested in that FWD trans if it's any good and will work in my XT Turbo. mileage?

is that a 2WD manual trans DL you're removing? what's that transmission like? good condition? what year...will it fit my 1987.5 XT Turbo?

change the oil (coolant would be nice too if you can), before starting it again. advanced autoparts allows you to mix coolant and oil when you bring it in for recylcing. drive it until it shows signs of problems. do a compression test if you like. any coolant loss will show itself pretty soon, either in a day or a couple hundred miles if it's a slow leak. but there's certainly no way to gaurantee anything without looking into it a little further. easiest just to drive it around for awhile or let it idle in your driveway (keep an eye on the temp). it's probably fine, some minimal driving will tell for sure. my guess is if they are willing to give the car away they are more than likely to make the car sound as bad as possible, they just want it gone and not deal with it anymore. they'd rather not deal with thinking it's okay and having someone complain about it later, they just want it gone. i've picked up at least 4 free subarus that i can think of....they usually just want them gone by that point. "yeah it's a bad engine, just take it".

works awesome every time those intake manifold bolts break off in the head (which is like 50% of the time for me).

if the starter works you might want to tell the transport company that. tell them it will load onto a car carrier or dolly and they may move it. if you just tell them "disabled" they may be thinking they can't move it to load, but that's not the case if the starter works. be a much nicer trip. i've towed cars from atlanta to MD, i'd get out of it if there was an easier way!

i've ordered from thepartsbin.com, i use them often. for large orders a contact from the states might be your best bet. some of the online (and members of this board) Subaru dealers have excellent pricing here in the states, might want to check into that.

if you get a 2WD trans, you might want to source a 2WD TCU as well. not sure if the TCU is compatible across both. i'd actually bet they are, but i have nothing to base that on. i'd guess the connectors/wiring would be fine though...but like someone just said i've never seen confirming info either way.

he just got the car recently. don't think you'd have any problem if you can get the new crank pulley to fit. why won't the new one fit? get a file, a dremel or whatever to clean up the crank and get the new pulley on there and crank it HARD. 1/2" socket and 3 feet of pipe have always worked for me steve. i would not waste time on a motor swap if the car runs fine. i've seen a number of cars with sheared pins and keys, crank the pulley on super duper tight (cast iron, won't strip unless you try!) and you're golden. seen this before and no problems. i would not use locktite and i wouldn't worry too much about it. it's not ideal but i haven't seen any break loose that had issues.

Jeff - probably an easy fix to this. helicoil is usually a last resort. can you post pictures? i've dealt with enough broken timing gear and bolts that i can probably help you out. by "left" do you mean drivers side? remove the sheared off bolt if it's still stuck in the hole. with some PB Blaster and some vice grips it may come out. the easiest way....this will take less than a minute and be a piece of cake - use a welder to weld a nut on the top portion of the sheared off bolt, then you can use a socket to remove the shank left in the engine. if you don't have room to weld, borrow or rent a right angle drill or remove the radiator if you can get at it with a regular drill. i've used right angle drills in this exact area before. use a left handed drill bit to remove the stud. as your drilling into the bolt that's stuck in the engine, the bolt should eventually back out. if not, you'll have the bolt mostly drilled out for other options. DO NOT use an eazy-out, those things suck. if a stupid-out does works, that only means another method would have worked too. once the bolts are out you do not need to helicoil those holes. those holes are deeper than the stock bolts used to hold the tensioner in place (this is true for both the passengers and drivers side). run a tap through the threads (10 x 1.25 pitch i believe), and clean the threads up. this might be all you need. but to be sure this doesn't happen again, get a longer bolt than the ones that are normally there. a longer bolt will reach the unused threads which are definitely good since the stock bolt doesn't go down that deep. find any bolt that will work and use spacers (washers) under the head of the bolt if it's too long. or, i like to cut the bolt to the exact length and then chase the end of the bolt with a die to smooth out the cut i just made. if you can't get the bolt out, other than helicoil you could probably even try to drill and tap the broken bolt with a smaller diameter hole and use a smaller diameter bolt in the one that's sheared off. the one good hole that you do have is more than sufficient to hold the tensioner in place, you only need the other to keep it from rotating. (assuming this is the drivers side we're talking about). let me know if you have any questions....certainly this sucks for you dude! hang in there, it's not too bad of a fix.

sounds good. that's what i do. 1/2" socket w/ 3 foot pipe on the handle and crank away. cast iron crank and bolt, not much worry on stripping it, i never have.

the stub shaft has a circlip on the end inside the transmission. with enough effort it just pulls out of the transmission with the retaining clip still on the stubby shaft. same goes for reinstalling it, press it in and the circlip will snap in place and hold it. not sure where any play would come from or how that would happen but there is certainly no easy way to address it except to say that maybe a new stubby shaft and circlip may help. disassembly of the front differential is not an easy task. do to the differential set up, i wonder if one axle stub could by design have more play than the other. technically speaking only one wheel receives power when driving, so maybe there's a difference in play associated with that as well. i don't know, but if i remember or if someone wants they can check a spare trans. off the top of my head i've never noticed one side being more loose than the other.

it's on 30,000 + miles after a head gasket/reseal job i did. you are probably on to something. (6 cylinders). i'm wondering why the blow by can't vent out the dipstick or PCV valve? i'll do a leak down test and verify. i have a couple blocks, some brand new heads ready to go and a complete gasket set so i can throw an engine together. guess that will be a goal for the next couple months.

i'd also unclamp an ATF line up front, start the car and see if any fluid comes out. this will tell you if the pump is working. obviously just crank the motor for a couple seconds and shut it off.

Awesome! thanks for posting! i'll give it a try. how did you use the sealant? on the bolt head or the shank? i have a hard time believing the shank will completely seal. want to make sure i get it right the first time!