idosubaru

cool thanks, just like # of valves per cylinder!

97 impreza OBS with ABS. will 1993 Legacy 2 pot calipers fit? would the 2 pot calipers be better than my stock 1 pot? and why are 2 better?

Anaerobic sealant can be found at NAPA (ask if you're not sure) and is the best to use. RTV will work. Anaerobic sealant if any gets in the oil will not clog up oil passages or get stuck anywhere like RTV can, that's the only difference. that's why they're telling you to don't over-do the RTV. if you do and excess gets squeezed into the oil supply that's not a good thing. there's a picture on yahoo XT6 groups of a glob during a tear down someone did after a glob worked it's way into the engine. I used RTV for a number of years, i use anaerobic now because i have it on hand.

i was told some 98 and up (or all?) transmissions have screw on filters like an oil filter.

i know someone that just removed a used manual steering EA82 steering rack while his engine was out to install power steering. he's in minnesota, i sent him a message this morning about this thread.

how is the engine running/temp gauge? does the engine ever overheat? check for overheating and radiator cap first. then headgaskets/internal coolant leak of some sort after those options.

check the intake hose for cracks. check underneath where you can't see as well. if cracks are just starting they will "open" more as the engine torques and moves (motor mounts give) or you go around turns and the chasis moves. i doubt this is the case, but all i can think of. that and a wire is exposed somewhere, grounding out around turns. i've seen O2 wires have the insulation rubbed off where they pass through crossmembers or around exhaust. they will ground out intermittently and cause strange things.

the timing belt related marks are on the cam sprockets (youll see when you pull the covers) and the crank mark is on the flexplate (auto trans) or flywheel (manual trans) as viewed through the bellhousing access hole on top of the bellhousing underneath the intake hose where it meets the throttle body. you like run on sentences right?

it would be tough to prove that a rock got in between and damaged the pulley. if the belt fails it is difficult to sift through the shredded pieces and torn bits and determine exactly what happened. the pulleys shear off due to age, vibration, stripped bolts, bearings seized, belts shredding and grabbing on to something, etc. it's happened numerous times to people here, at http://www.xt6.net and on the yahoo XT6 groups over the years. i've had it happen once (before i ever thought of removing timing covers). pulleys fail, bolts strip, bearings fail and they can shear off and take parts of the block with them (mine did, jeffs did, uncle ike in the midwest did...there's three off the top of my head...and all had their covers on..i think jeff did). i think age, bearings, belt shreds and stripped (or partially stripped) bolts are more likely to happen than a rock wedging in between. how do you know this piece of rubber caused it to jump two teeth? did you see it rip off, spin around with the belt and then jump? i'm just being logical and trying to avoid assumptions. also, had you not had covers this would have never happened. if non covered belts could easily get fouled by debris then serpentine belts would fail all the time, they are quite exposed...particularly on other model vehicles. but i've never seen that or heard of that happening. granted...if you got covers in great condition and don't do the work yourself, you are definitely better off having them in place. each person has different desires out of their vehicle. most probably don't like keeping an extra set of belts and pulleys in the trunk as back ups. i don't mind, i can throw them on in a matter of minutes if need be. and the cam sprockets and bolts rust easy, so there are down sides i admit. but i've got extra sprockets and bolts and can paint them so no matter to me. this isn't a one size fits all deal that's for sure.

as an example. i'm currently looking for a friend, so this was easy... http://baltimore.craigslist.org/car/164829031.html this one has more mileage, but i'd rather get the good deal and spend another couple hundred on new timing belt, water pump, timing pulleys and have a bullet proof motor for under $3,000. these things soar past 200,000 miles without blinking.

sounds like this has the 2.2 in it? if it's a 2.5 i'd definitely ignore it. but if it is the 2.2 that's a great motor. can't really go wrong getting one of those in good condition with low miles. agreed on the dealership - worst place to buy a car from. they go to auctions, buy a used car sight unseen for $800 and sell it for $4000. just go buy it from the people selling it and cut out the fat of the dealers. you can only win, it's cheaper and you can learn more about the car. look for responsible people and service records....good signs that you're getting a good car. i look far away....find the one i want at a great price and fly to go pick it up and drive it home. but if you don't mind the price tag and it's the car you want, talk them down and get the best price you can and get. don't expect them to give you their best price the first 30 minutes or even first day of visiting. they pay pennies on these cars and have huge profits in them, they will budge. they will hold out for a sucker before selling it cheaper.

thermostat is a possibility as well.

i think it's more like 96-2000 or 2001. with the earlier ones having a different failure mode than the later (external). probably worth a try, others have had success so it seems. but after external and internal leakage has started it's probably a very long shot. some on the board have added it after initial overheats and it "solved" the problem. no problems, the newer head gasket is different to alleviate this "issue". get the newest gaskets directly from subaru and you won't have problems with it assuming the job is done right. CCR rebuild. they are subaru speciliasts. good option if you plan on keeping the car a long time. installation costs unless you do it yourself. install a 2.2 motor (1995 and up). they don't have head gasket issues, are easy to swap and easy to find (inexpensive). you could have this done for $500. $250 engine + $250 installation. that is what i'd do, except i'd install it myself.

no. the power steering motor just needs a cleaning and new brushes. also add the right fluid (Subaru Cybrid XT6 Power Steering Fluid only). very easy to fix.

frank, a very good friend and mechanic told me when retrofitting never to use R134a with oil in it. he said the most consistent results he has is just converting straight to R134a without any oils. mixing of the oils is a bad thing. but this is all talk, lets get down to business. if you're not planning on having this vehicle long and the A/C is working i would't worry about flushing it. just recharge it to where it needs to be. it's probably a leak causing issues, not the stuff in the system (maybe not ideal but doubt that's keeping it from working entirely if you just put one can in). recharging won't mean much if you have a leak. the most probable cause of leaking on a car of this age is the valve stem core. often you can see wetness or tiny bubbles if you peak down the ports at the base of the valve stem cores. but if you've recently charged it'll be wet anyway. replace these as they have tiny seals at their base. replace the valve stem cores on both high and low pressure ports of the a/c system. if you don't want to buy the $3 tool to remove them or open the system up to replace them, you can tigthen them a bit and hope that seals any leak that may be there. there is also a tool that allows you to replace them without opening up the system, but they are much more expensive. if you do open up the system then that's the time to go ahead and buy the generic box of a/c o-rings at the auto parts store and replace the o-rings at every fitting that you can easily get too. only takes a few minutes and tightens everything up. i just did all this on tuesday so it's fresh in my mind. i was adding charge last summer and it wasn't holding. i replaced o-rings, valve stem cores, pulled a vacuum and charged. all is well now. you could just vent the system to the atmosphere, the high pressure will blow some of the stuff out. then recharge.

are you asking about the swap itself, auto transmissions or 4WD capability? swapping is a PITA like he just said. if you can, wait for a good deal on what you want then sell the other. if you have loads of spare time and want to do this, then tear it up. having a complete donor car would be key to making this easy on yourself. it's easy to pick one up with issues for not much $. the auto transmissions aren't too bad. keep the tires matching and buy a cheap spare trans just in case. i had to replace mine around 155,000. the used one i insatlled made it another 70,000 no problems and i'm installing it in my other XT6 hopefully someday. i'm a weirdo but i don't mind the AWD auto transmissions at all in terms of off road traction. install the Duty solenoid C switch and an LSD and you're golden. the switch is the key though, it's awesome. but i don't rock climb and plow through pits...unless i have too. more function than play for me and i never have problems getting where i need to go.

exhaust work is simple with two major annoyances. working on your back/under the car. and rusted/deteriorated bolts. spray them good with liquid wrench or PB blaster (WD40 is not a good alternative). best to wet them good a couple of times prior to working on it, particularly if they look bad. there should be gaskets at any exhaust flange or juncture but i am not familiar with foresters specifically. typically they have a doughnut gasket at the front of the converter assembly and a gasket at the rear. in texas i doubt it would matter at all what you replace it with. i live in the north east, famous for rediculous emissions and auto laws. i replaced mine with an aftermarket converter ($35), welded it in place of my old (hollowed out) converter and all was fine, passed emissions easily. each state is different though, some (like VA) are immensley anal about exhaust work....but i can't imagine texas being like that. the state...that every time i drive through it i see multiple vehicles towing (well...pulling, towing is kind of generous!!) other vehicles on the interstate with a rope or chain. i'm surprised your converter is bad, are you sure?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-475-JDM-Subaru-Legacy-BG5-1995-Fog-Lights-Switch_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33709QQitemZ8070282677QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

i'd imagine a failed bearing could cause irregular tire wear. is that warn tire on the same noisey side? warn/damaged bearings may allow the wheel to "fall" in to recover the loss of material. that's all speculation, i've never seen it happen. lost hub caps are unfortunately normal and shouldn't be the cause of any issues. sounds like youre talking opposite sides - tire is not on the noisey side. have they been rotated recently? the problem may actually be somewhere else (the bearing side or up front) if the tire spent some time on another hub. i'd check the air pressure as well. the rear underside isn't rusted badly is it?

could be rear brake pads as well. does the noise go away when you press the brake pedal? if so, it's brake pads. could also be the rear differential if it's an AWD. this is likely not the case since you said it's "the left side". the rear diff would sound centrally located. so it's likely the wheel bearing. cheapest and easiest fix is to get another hub and swap it out. used hubs are $35 each and easy to replace. replacing the bearing is the best option. i personally like to buy the parts, have a local machine shop install the bearings and i swap the hub out. i have spare parts so i can do this while i'm still driving (though i've never had a wheel bearing fail, replace them at 200,000 miles as preventative) and then i have no down time with the car. around $150 for the average shop to do this.

yes you need the gasket, the "mouse" style. on the seals link you posted, there are three seals. you'll need the top two, not the bottom one. the top one is the oring that goes inside the pump housing. the second one is the seal on the outside of the oil pump, that the shaft goes through. the last one is for the oil pick up tube in the oil pan. you do not want to bother with this one. firstly getting the oil pan off is annoying....and that's the easy part! no need to replace this one. in all there are 3 parts needed for an oil pump reseal on an EA82. the o-ring, the mickey mouse gasket and the shaft seal. on the ER27 (XT6) it's the same except it does not have the oring inside the pump housing.

the original OEM Subaru part is metal with a rubber o-ring compound exterior. when you replaced your timing belts you also pulled the entire cam carrier off, pulled the rocker arms and all?

noone has used the word "cheap" or said anything about this place. we're making sure that people know the cam shaft o-rings in question here aren't really o-rings in the typical sense. they have metal in them, orings do not. there are alot of seals/o-rings on the cam carrier, best to make sure we're talking about the right ones. are you talking about the ones between the cam carrier and the head? were the ones you got metal?

this is a common question, use the search button and try to read some past threads/debates/arguments/oppinions. it's a volatile subject at times.

you can remove the belt and drive the car 4 miles. as long as you don't need anythign that is driven by the belt you can drive it just fine. 4 miles is no problem to drive on just the battery. don't use anything you don't have too electronically. in reality 4 miles is nothing for a battery to get you somewhere. you won't have power steering, but that's no big deal. you're buying an entire alternator to fix a broken bolt? are you sure a new alternator will fix the problem? can you post a picture of it?