idosubaru

bam, what he said. he's got you pointed right. let us know what you find out.

make sure the coolant reservoir and or the hose it has running to the radiator aren't leaking. they are very weak systems. i've had a number of older subaru's that didn't even have a working overflow tank. to this day i don't know how or why that is, but i've definitely driven a subaru before that for 100,000 miles would never have any coolant in that reservoir but the motor was fine, no coolant loss. a new radiator cap might not be a bad idea. they can leak tiny amounts only when warm. of course i wouldn't expect any of this on a 2003 with only 40,000. that being said, i'd keep a close eye on it heat is nothing to worry about.

i'm not a mod but you'll find what you need here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=25

here is a way to "recondition" your existing TPS: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5525

some places sell rebuild kits of master cylinders. i'd imagine a rebuild kit may contain the same seals RHD LHD. http://www.thepartsbin.com http://www.rockauto.com and possibly subaru OEM? might be worth trying to find a rebuild kit than a RHD master cylinder. there isn't much to a master cylinder. i 've never had one fail so i haven't done it yet but i did rebuild a caliper for the first time and was amazed at how easy it is, ended up doing a couple of my vehicles as prevenative maintenance.

i'd avoid JB weld, vibrations do kill it. i like his idea. seems like removing the pan might be the way to go to get to the threads from the bottom. the filler bolts so low and close to the pan seems like you should be able to get to it.

anyway to install the purge control solenoid from the 2.5 to the 2.2?

if you're looking for another reliable 100,000 miles you'd be good to replace the timing belts, oil pump seals, cam seals, crank seal and repack the timing pulley bearings or buy new ones. i do all the stuff at the same time when i go in there, doesn't take long at all and it's all in about the same spot. if the cam seal starts leaking then you're pulling the timing belts back off to replace it. here's a write up i did on repacking the bearings: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50430 it's trickier on the EA82 as the bearings are more hidden than those pictures i posted which are off an XT6. although the XT6 pulleys are way more expensive than the EA82 which led me to doing that to begin with. if you don't want to do all that, leave the seals if they aren't leaking and don't reinstall all the front timing belt covers, leave them open. this will allow easier maintenance if you need to go in there again. personal preference, i and others do it, but some find that appauling. good, clean battery contacts/terminals, radiator cap and thermostats are cheap insurance. the coolant temperature sensor connectors get dirty and cause issue. for now, remove the wiring harness connector from the sensor (it's right next to the thermostat housing i think). look for green corrossion or general dirtiness. that will soon cause problems if it's there. good cooling system - if the radiator doesn't look like it's going to last as long as you plan on keeping it, then replace it. better to replace now and never again than have it blow on you in the next year or two and cause overheating/engine damage. a new one should last as long as you keep the car. 20 year old gaskets don't like to overheat, takes one time to blow your head gaskets and cause serious engine issues. new radiator, water pump and thermostats are great insurance against that. change your oil often. these motors have hydraulic valve lash adjusters. let your oil get dirty and they will get noisey. keep your oil clean and they treat you much better. change your transmission fluid/oil.

i'm sorry...i'm not sure about the hubs. i do not know at all if the impreza or legacy hubs will work. my thinking was off when i was first answering your questions. if you have both cars, it shouldn't be too hard to find out and i'm sure lots of us here would be very interested to know if this works or not. someone else here will know.

you don't need any special tools. there is information on here about holding hte cam sprockets in place. definitely replace front and rear seals at a couple dollars each no big deal. no need to replace the oil pump, just the seal.

gut tells me master cylinder as well. from what i've seen master cylinders can go out on rare occassions after alot of brake work...bleeding, pumping, leaking all put a little more strain on the system.

the 2.2 doesn't have a purge control solenoid? the car should run fine without the EGR system installed. have you attempted to start it yet?

if it's EA81 block and heads then the heads are certainly interchangeable. if they are EA82 blocks and heads then they are also interchangeable. as far swapping between EA81 and EA82 i don't know.

this doesn't sound all that weird. although i would certainly check into it as no oil will lock the motor up in short order. have the oil pump seals ever been changed? i'd guess one of the ports in the mickey mouse gasket have been sucked into the oil passage. i'd start with an oil pump reseal and be very meticulous about doing it right with Subaru parts. have the anaerobic or RTV sealant of choice handy for the engine mating surfaces behind the oil pump just like the FSM suggests. check the oil pressure sending unit, sometimes they get smashed/dented. also check the oil pan to be sure it's not dented and restricting flow to the sump. i'm not really familiar with the pressure sending unit, but cleaning may help? remove, clean and reinstall. installing an after market oil pressure gauge is always a great idea if oil supply is in question. or try a new oil pressure sender. but then you're at the mercy of the stock gauge and wiring. does it ever have low pressure at start up? that would be weird. if it's near zero after the car warms up, that's not weird at all in my experience. of course there's still oil flowing. doesn't help you determine much though since if you were at a flow of oil causing damage i don't know that you could really tell a difference. does it fluctuate wildly at any time? i'd suspect the oil pump gasket or the sending unit. if it reads high at start up, then goes down to 45, then close to zero at idle. that sounds about normal. zero while driving definitely not normal. pressure rising when you hit the gas, that's normal.

171k km or miles? km probably. for issues you shouldn't have too many, the EJ series motors are great and i'd guess yours is a 2.2 or possible a 2.0 or 1.8? either way, great motors. at that mileage i'd throw new timing belts, water pump, thermostat and oil pump seals at it since who knows how old they are, unless you know they've been replaced recently. i'd also change the oil, transmission and differential fluids. drain and refill coolant.

are you looking for a directy swap that's relatively simple? or is some custom work okay? there's enough information and knowledge on this site to help you deal with the issues you'd encounter. swapping newer EJ series stuff into older EA series has been done. the newer generation vehicles do not swap directly into older generation. you'll have to swap the entire engine harness, computer, entire engine over to the EA82. the Automatic trans will require the entire wiring harness dedicated to the transmission. you'll need the clutch pedals (and the dash if you want the correct display of Park, Neutral, etc), rear differential (due to a different final drive ratio than the EA82 diff) and driveshaft. your best bet would be to grab the entire 95 wiring harness and strip out what you don't need, make sure you keep anything engine and transmission related and you're golden. it'll plug and play then, you'll just have to get it in. the good news is that the motor is essentially a drop in - the bolts fit right in the crossmember though some have mentioned they needed to drill the holes in the crossmember out a little. but that's no big deal, that's great that the engine fits and fits right in with the existing crossmember. questionable items: the driveshaft might be a different length and would need to be shortened (custom work) not sure if the axles will interchange. pretty sure those axles won't work. i think impreza hubs will swap in place of the EA82 hubs, if you can get the legacy hubs to work or if impreza hubs can use legacy axles you can get one of those hubs in place with little effort and they'll accept the axles. the rear hubs i'm not sure how you'd get those hubs to accept the axles except to have a CV rebuilder use both axles to creat one that you need.

there's a great post on this topic with a link to something like Rallispek or some other site with a DETAILED list....like every subaru ever made (not quite) listed. look for that link, unfortunately i don't recall exactly where it is but i found it not too long ago using the search and looking for final gear ratio.

another option is to take the hub and bearings to a shop/machine shop and have them do it. cheaper than a garage, only i'm touching my car, and they have all the equipment. i feel more comfortable with machine shops than automotive shops, those guys are super technical and know what they are doing. i'd rather a machine shop charge me hourly so he's making the same amount on my wheel bearings than an automotive shop who's just trying to bang out my wheels bearings quick so he can get to his more profitable and easier timing belt job. my 2 cents if you don't feel like doing this job yourself.

this isn't the "clean" way to do it, but i just pull the most convenient fuel hose i can. pull the one right at the fuel filter. place it in a bottle/bucket if you like. i usually like to let it just pour out the hose because i'm weird, don't care and like to see continuous flow with no spurting/bubbling. anyway, disconnect a hose and turn the key. when you first turn the key ON (engine not starting yet though), the fuel pump should (or may) cycle for 1.5 seconds, that's normal. after that turn the key and crank the engine (or have someone crank it for you while you watch the hose, but i can see mine from inside the cabin), you should see fuel come out of the hose. there are cleaner and more official methods, but this is the easy way to do it.

i was confused when you mentioned this before. by saying it's leaking into the cylinder it sounds like internal engine issues. but by saying it's on the spark plug it sounds like it's externally on the plug and leaking on the top of the plug, not internally in the engine combustion chamber.

a wire that was cooking? did you find what wire that was and remove it? i'd trace that wire and see if it compromised anything else. i've seen shorted wires burn through master cylinder caps, speedo cable coverings, wires, etc. what kind of wiring changes did you make? did you have to swap any wiring or was it a plug and play type of deal? a 99 2.5 should plug right into a 2.2 harness right?

good call, radiator and water pump are expensive parts (particularly if you're paying someone else to do it). be sure you don't go throwing those parts at it first. at your mileage i'd want a new thermostat anyway, so i'd replace it since they cost under $5. i work in Greenbelt, MD i think you may be close to me. if so i would be willing to look at it for you. PM or email if yo'ure interested in me checking it out. overheating will cause sever engine damage quickly, try not to drive it hot.

nice call! so if he didn't want to deal with swapping heads he could swap the entire EA82 non-turbo engine assembly (entire thing) into the turbo car. throwing that option out there in case he doesn't want to do any engine work. either way, you can get what you want without any wiring issues.

good job getting it fixed. the sensors rarely, if ever actually fail. your old sensor is fine, if you have it i'd keep it for the permanent fix i'll mention shortly. be sure to check for corrosion on the terminals and in the harness that plugs into the sensor. replacing the sensor temporarily fixes the problem because there is no corrossion on the new sensor. but there's still corrossion on the harness and it will return quickly. replacing the sensor is the short term solution. cleaning your old sensor and wiring harness is the longer term solution and soldering the wires to the sensor is the permanent solution. i did a complete write up on soldering the wires to the sensor with pictures and all on http://www.xt6.net. i've had this problem resurface at least twice, if not three times in a year before finally doing it right. here's a link to the permanent solution with details and pictures: http://xt6.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1767&highlight=coolant+temperature

might want to check the simple stuff first. make sure all your bolts and nuts are tight. axle nut. does it have any hub caps or wheel caps? i've seen sheared off lug nuts behind a center cap make clunking noises as they fall around inside the cap. seen this happen a few times, a very strange thing. i was always confused how one lug nut would shear off and the rest are fine????