Cougar

Thanks for the notice Daeron. I goofed up again. :-\

I just sent you a message Howard. I would just send it by First Class mail to save costs on shipping.

I seem to recall a notice from CCR (Emily) that they may be no longer selling the EA81s since they can no longer get parts for them anymore. You may be able to have them rebuild yours though.

Here is another link with some good pictures to show the problem. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6386&highlight=clock

Howards11, Are you still looking for someone to fix your clock? If so, I will help you out. Glen

Welcome to the forum here. There is a small switch on the door lock mechanism that some have had trouble with dirty contacts in the past. By cleaning the switch contacts it may clear this problem.

Here is a link to a book you may want to look into getting: http://www.amazon.com/Beginners-Reading-Schematics-Robert-Traister/dp/0830676325/ref=pd_sim_b_5/103-7678949-9696629

To learn about certain symbols you should be able to find out the info by searching the web for electronic symbols. There are a lot of good text books on the market that can help you learn basic automotive to advanced electronic information and repair. You can search for them on the web and also check your locale bookstore and library.

I agree with Gloyale. Check the fusible links. The alternator output lead is always hot to the battery and the wire may have grounded out when you tried to start it, causing smoked link.

Gloyale, Thanks for the heads up about the windows not operating in the ACC position. This was a wrong assumption on my part. I didn't look at the print well enough. Sorry for the misinformation. Glen

I agree with Nipper. It sounds like the bulb filament for the parking or brake light has crossed with the other. Check the rear lights for trouble there.

I wish I could help you out Nipper but can't. I wouldn't be surprised if you made the whole trip without any tire trouble.

You should be able to tap the wires that go to the ignition switch. By placing a bypass switch in between the hot battery lead and the accessories lead connection it will do what you want to do. The battery lead color may be white and the accessory lead may be blue.

This is kind of a strange problem. It may be that the new battery is causing the alternator output to have some extra noise on the output and causing false error codes to be shown by the ECU, but I have never heard of that kind of thing happening before. I also have never heard of a battery for a manual transmission.

It looks to me that it may be Q600 is the one I replaced. By checking the transistors with a meter you will hopefully find the trouble.

I didn't know there was a light for that on the dash. I think you are right about the warning being caused by a electrical circuit. The EGR circuit usually has a solenoid wired to it and the ECU monitors that.

I think you are correct about the switch. It seems the most logical point. I haven't done that job myself so I can't say how hard it is to do that. I don't think it is real hard though it may take a little time to do it. Hopefully just cleaning the contacts will fix this problem but you may have to replace it.

If you are trying to clear the 35 error code and the ECU isn't happy with the circuit condition it will still come back in. As soon as the ECU sees the right circuit condition it will stop the error. There is no delay in the reset.

The 35 code will go away as soon as the ECU sees a normal current in the circuit. It appears the ECU still isn't happy with what has been done for some reason.

I wouldn't change Q702 unless you prove it is bad first. It isn't the transistor I changed out to fix my ECUs.

Well this may not be very easy to do by posting advice but let’s give it a try. First off, I will say if you would like me to work on them myself I would be willing to see if I could get them to work for you but I can't guarantee it. If you don't have the proper tools and skills you can damage the board if you aren't careful, though it wouldn't be any real loss right now as it stands. The transistor I replaced is similar in style and location as Q600. That is a TO92 style. I'm not sure but, Q702 may be the transistor that is tied to the fuel pump ground lead. By tracing the lead from the fuel pump lead connection it should lead you to the proper driver transistor if that isn't the correct one. The transistor I replaced was the stage before the driver stage unit. Using a meter in the diode check position should work in finding the problem if it is a transistor. You need to be aware of the circuit it is tied to though for any possible discrepancy in the reading, as it could mislead you in thinking the transistor is bad and it really is good. It just depends on how the circuit is designed and what it is tied to. This takes experience to figure it out. Hopefully you have the same problem I did. The replacement transistor was less than 2 dollars. I will be gone for the afternoon today but will be back this evening to check back with you.

After reading this post I can think of a couple of things that may cause this to happen. First thing I would do to check into this would be to run a ground jumper from the negative battery post to the dash ground to see if there is a grounding problem. Along with that, check the wire connection between the disty and the tach to make sure it is good. If those things are ok then I would suspect that the tach is picking motor noise generated by the blower motor. Checking the power to the motor with a meter set to the AC volts function may show the noise up.

I thought the same thing as Bulwnkl said when I started reading these posts. I haven't tried the product myself but I sure would if I needed it. You may want to try it and see if that helps quiet the slapping at least some. Here is a link to their site. Check out the reviews from people that have used the product. http://www.auto-rx.com/

The test method I used to find the problem was using the diode function of the digital meter and checking the forward and reverse directions of the transistor junctions. I can't remember now if the junction was open or shorted. Your unit may have a different problem since the polarity was reversed. My unit just quit after the alternator was replaced. I think the higher output of the new alternator took out the weak'nd junctioned.

The solenoid may be on the left side of the throttle body. Be very careful when you are working on them. They break very easily with any side torque on them. Here is a link from DaveT that may help you find it. http://home.comcast.net/~davidtief/solenoid.html