Cougar

You are correct. High speed is directly tied to power.

Yes Daeron, would like to get your data if possible.

Do you have a meter that you can read the AC voltage with on the Blk/wht wire going to the disty.

Here are some instructions that Gloyale posted on another thread you can use. You need to see if it has trouble codes. The ECU is under steering column. It has a small hole in front with a light in it. Turn the key on and look at the light. If it blinks a steady 1-4 blinks, you have no active codes. You may have stored codes that can be output by connecting the single pole black connectors under the ECU. If it blinks a series of long an short flashes those are a trouble code/codes. Long flash is the first number, short flashes are the second. I.E: 2 long, 3 short= code 23. see if you get any codes and then come back and tell us what they are.

Make sure power is getting to fuse #5. If the horn works it should be good.

Welcome to the forum here Tim. We should be able to help you out. You might try a little starter fluid in the intake to see if that will help get it going.

You don't really need much experience to possibly fix this if you will follow the advice given here. In post number 6 Gloyale has told you how to read the important codes that are stored in the ECU. There may be more than one code involved. Write the codes down and let us know what they are then we can help you further with this. I'm surprised that the test station went on with the testing with the CEL light on. Usually that must be off before testing is even begun. Some states allow that though I think. Some common problems that can cause a rich mixture are bad plugwires and plugs, a bad coolant temperature sensor (this is different from the gauge sensor), exhaust leak, or a bad O2 sensor. I used to have a couple of turbo GL-10's and they are a great car.

Good deal. Was it on the left side in the rear taillight area?

Here is what my info says about it. First off it shows a trailer connection for the years 96-99 so you may look for one in your car. The brake light is WHT/BLK. The tail light is RED. The left turn is light GRN/WHT and the right turn is WHT/RED. Ground is BLK.

It appears then Bucky92 that you have the exception to the common resistor trouble. Yours is a switch problem. Thanks for the great picture details covering this common problem Skip. This is more good flatuous blather.

As Martha would say, "It's a good thing".

The motor has two speeds so it is possible that the motor may be the problem but I would think it is something else like the combination switch. To see if the motor is at fault check the voltage on the blk/blu wire for the low speed when this trouble happens again. If you see 12 volts there then the motor is the problem. If you don't see any voltage there then you need to check the combination switch for a problem or the blk/blu wire.

Good job P73. Interesting.

That's correct. It would be a real help to see if your voltage reading is the same by making a comparison in the readings. Thanks Daeron.

The power for the blower runs through a relay under the dash. It sounds like the relay is causing the problem. You may be able to locate it by tapping on the relays. It might make the blower work. One thing to note about the circuit is the switch and the speed resistors are on the ground side of the motor load.

Gloyale, In regards to this problem don't you have a vehicle model similar to Matts car? If you do could you verify that the white wire from the disty shows about 4.3 volts AC while cranking the engine? We have checked for pulses getting to the ECU, and they are. The only thing I can think of now is there is something wrong with the pulse waveform. Checking the voltage levels may help determine that.

I suppose the CAS signal may be putting out a waveform that the ECU doesn't like but I kind of doubt it. The easiest thing to do would be to verify the items in question by putting them in another car and see if they work there. This is a tough one. It isn't going down easy but I think we all will figure out something to get this fixed. Hope you have a good time on the farm. We'll be waiting for you.

You may have to check out the passenger side door operation so you can figure a way to work the driver's side.

Good deal. Another great Soob story.

You are right Gloyale it is a pickup.

There is another poster having a similar problem to yours. It reminded me to ask you also to see if fuse #5 is ok. If the horn works then it is good. This fuse is important for the ECU operation.

Thanks for the help Gloyale. Your post just jogged my memory. We need to know if fuse #5 is good. If the horn works it should be ok. Along with the pins Gloyale stated also check pin 27 of the ECU for power. Some time ago I helped a fella and I think he had the same problem with the ignition. After a lot of troubleshooting we finally traced it down to a bad fuse in #5 position.

I understand your point. It is pretty unlikely that the other ECUs would have this same fault. Yet I can't think of any other thing that would cause a error code 13. Just to verify it, is it still occuring?

That's correct, inside. I really don't think you will find anything wrong with the connection going by the voltage readings you gave earlier. Sometimes connections do come loose and some folks have been able to fix their ECU just by resoldering the bad wire connection. For future reference it would be good to know what the Radio Shack part number is for that tester you purchased. Do you have the part number for it?

Good testing. Now we know for sure the CAS is doing its' job. If you want to verify that the pulses are also getting to the pin on the ECU you could do that but really you have done that already. The next thing to do is verify that the wire lead inside the ECU is making good contact to the circuit board inside and to the outside pin. If that is okay then you need to replace the ECU.